Africa Twin CRF1000L suspension

Discussion in 'Japanese polycylindered adventure bikes' started by uk_mouse, Jun 22, 2016.

  1. SwedePete

    SwedePete n00b

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    It would seem that the factory setting for most bikes is a rider @ 65kg (143lb). From Enduros with Öhlins, ready to race (GasGas EC250) to the AT.
    I'm a small guy at just that weight, never had a bike that needed any adjustment than other maybe a preload adjustment.
  2. NorskieRider

    NorskieRider Long timer

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    For those of you who have installed ATAS fork outers onto AT lowers, was there shimming involved?

    It sounds like some have shimmed, some have not, and it's not entirely clear to me whether that's necessary, where the shims go, and how to measure the thickness required? And where to get the shims?
  3. NSFW

    NSFW basecamp4adv Super Supporter

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    thinking of getting the ATAS fork tubes, and interested to know other people's comments.

    for now, i rotated the 2016 oem fork tubes 90 degrees, and will be inspecting the bore of any additional wear.
  4. Black99S

    Black99S Been here awhile

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    Check out the posts by Motociclo. Shims go under the bushings to reduce the bushing to tube clearance.
  5. NorskieRider

    NorskieRider Long timer

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  6. Rookielef

    Rookielef n00b

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    Greetings friends from all around the world.
    I purchased recently an ATAS 1100 and i am very happy with my motorcycle.I ride only 2 years(previous bike v strom 650 :D) and i am totally nooby with mechanical stuff. I would like to make a question to you.
    Because i have no idea from motorcycle stuff and the only thing i do is just ride and leave the mechanical stuff to my honda dealer, i would like to learn some basic stuff for my safety first.Recently i read at some forums that suspension is very huge factor that affect the geometry of the motorcycle. I have no idea how i have to set up my suspensions right( only preload). Recently i watched some videos on youtube saying that i have to set up my SAG first of all and then rebound and compression.I try to do this and the messures that i took was
    Free SAG: 610mm
    Static SAG: 560mm
    Rider SAG :510mm(without gear)
    Rear Suspension Travel is 220mm
    I want to mention that i am 95kg and 1.87 height.I travel mostly with my girlfriend (67kg) because she loves trips with motorcycle.My question is,first of all am i doing it right,(with my SAG i mean not my girlfriend :jack) and if yes and my meassures are right does that mean that i have to change my rear suspension?
    Thank you for everything.Plz help a rookie :p
  7. Black99S

    Black99S Been here awhile

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    You are heading in the right direction with understanding SAG
    610 - 510 = 100mm rider sag. Which is the measurement difference between bike lifted (610) and you sitting on it (510)
    Good rider sag is ~30% of rear suspension travel = 66mm
    Time to crank up the rear preload. At your weight you might have to go all the way clockwise.
    Have you read this? https://advrider.com/f/threads/springs-preload-and-stuff.1347612/
  8. Tgoranson

    Tgoranson 2018 Africa Twin

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    Doesn't the 2020 ATAS have electronic suspension? There should be a setting in the dash to adjust the preload. But you should check your owner's manual on how to make those changes.
  9. Rookielef

    Rookielef n00b

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    at max preload i am at 520. Maybe i need stiffer spring?
  10. NorskieRider

    NorskieRider Long timer

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    What is the correct part # for the ATAS uppers?

    I ordered 51410-KZZ-D21. It's exactly the same shape as the uppers on my 2016 AT.

    Did I order the wrong part?
    Or did I already have ATAS uppers?
    Or did they send the wrong part with the right part number?
  11. Amphib

    Amphib A mind is like a parachute....

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    51410-MKK-D21

    The one you posted is for the crf250l
  12. NorskieRider

    NorskieRider Long timer

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    Well poop how did that happen? Grrrrr... I bet I searched Ebay and scrolled past my matches and didn't notice I had selected from the "similar items" section.

    Ah well, thanks for pointing that out!
  13. Amphib

    Amphib A mind is like a parachute....

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    The color should also be different, not the yellow gold color, but a darker brown, bronze color. The search engines are getting really bad at interjecting things that aren't part of a specific search. Generally I use partzilla to find the part numbers then search elsewhere to compare. But in your defense, those part numbers are really close and at a glance look the same.
  14. Ed

    Ed Shunpiking Supporter

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    This may have been addressed already, but I don't want to sort through 177 pages of posts. I am in the process of rebuilding the forks on my '17 AT. I installed a Cogent rear spring already and have Cogent's .75 straight rate springs and compression valves for the front. I have one leg disassembled and ready to clean and reassemble. The good news is I don't see any premature wear in the uppers at almost 19k miles. The question I have is this; how do get the original compression valves out of the damper rod assembly? The factory service manual apparently doesn't consider the valves a field serviceable part and doesn't address their removal. Looking at the new valves, it seems the only retention device is an o-ring. I'm at a loss here. Any ideas?
  15. Black99S

    Black99S Been here awhile

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    Unless the bottom bolt was over torqued, you should be able to push the compression valves into the tubes by hand. They are held in with a circlip. May need a whack with a plastic mallet to break them free.
    If a right-knob serviced the forks and used an impact then you need a suspension shop with proper clamps and a 2-ton press.
  16. Ed

    Ed Shunpiking Supporter

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    Well, they certainly aren't coming out by hand. I'll be bringing my brass drifts home from the shop today and try to tap them out. Wish me luck. The PO of the bike installed, or had installed HyperPro progressive lowering springs which made the bike very under sprung. The lower bolts did feel tighter coming out than I thought they should.
  17. swimmer

    swimmer armchair asshole

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    If I understand your predicament correctly.......

    On one of my bikes, the racetech instructions called for me to use a dremel tool or something similar to sand/file down in the inside of the damper tube in order to get the compression valve out. Apparently the end gets slightly rolled over when assembled at the factory which means you can't get the valve out. Since you bought the stuff from Cogent, maybe give them a call and ask them what they've done when encountering a similar problem.
  18. Ed

    Ed Shunpiking Supporter

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    Yeah, I called Cogent. They said there is a reason they don't include instructions with the valves. The fellow I spoke with on the phone was nice enough, but had only helped replace the valves on one occasion. I'm dropping the damper tubes and valves off at a local suspension shop tomorrow. I've f*&ed up expensive parts before. I know when to quit. :D
  19. Black99S

    Black99S Been here awhile

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    If I remember watching the suspension shop take my forks apart. Screw the bottom nut / needle valve partway back into the damper cartridge. Use it to push the valve body into the tube. Remove circlip then remove valve. For mine it took 2,000 psi on the hydraulic press to crack the valves free.
    You can see the damage to the cartridge - over tightening pulled it past the circlip and jammed it in the tube.

    Attached Files:

  20. Ed

    Ed Shunpiking Supporter

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    That clears things up. The circlip removal was the part I was missing.