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Africa Twin CRF1000L suspension

Discussion in 'Japanese polycylindered adventure bikes' started by uk_mouse, Jun 22, 2016.

  1. Motociclo

    Motociclo Long timer

    Joined:
    May 18, 2017
    Oddometer:
    1,288
    Location:
    The Hunter.
    PM me springs your using and i will sort a solution. I will offer setips for for kjs and shock.
  2. NorskieRider

    NorskieRider Ultracrepidarian

    Joined:
    Mar 19, 2011
    Oddometer:
    1,778
    Location:
    Minnesota
    Thanks for taking the time to help.

    Unfortunately I get the error that I'm not allowed to start a conversation with you.

    You asked for the spring rate ... unfortunately I don't have that. The previous owner put that spring on and wasn't able to tell me what it was. But I suppose that's a

    If I were to re-spring, is there a rate you'd recommend?
  3. Motociclo

    Motociclo Long timer

    Joined:
    May 18, 2017
    Oddometer:
    1,288
    Location:
    The Hunter.
    Thats odd PM won't play.
    Happy to help.
    Check spring for markings. Usually something marked on them.

    My reco for springs,

    Forks, 0.72.
    Shock, 10.7
  4. NorskieRider

    NorskieRider Ultracrepidarian

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    Minnesota
    Thanks, and with the 10.7 spring, which shim stack?
  5. Motociclo

    Motociclo Long timer

    Joined:
    May 18, 2017
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    Location:
    The Hunter.
    Will piece together a stack and PM you.
  6. Tgoranson

    Tgoranson 2018 Africa Twin

    Joined:
    Jan 9, 2017
    Oddometer:
    34
    Location:
    Whitehorse, YT
    Does any one have opinions on the Andreani kits for our bikes, seems like there's not a tonne of vocal people out there with them. I'm basically l'm looking at these compared to the AK-20's and mmaaaaaaybe the FKA's (if I can stretch my budget). I have a TFX shock on order and am trying to find a fork solution that would suit me.
  7. Motociclo

    Motociclo Long timer

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    The Hunter.
    All varied opinions. Some love the Andr, others, think they are too harsh.
    Ohlins cavitate.
    The AK20, they will be best option in my opinion.
    Any will be better than stock. Don't be fooled into thinking huge pistons are better in every case. They have there place, but 20mm cartridge in Af Twin is plenty adequate.
    Spend the time to set them up post install.
    Plenty just buy a setup, bolt and go. Can do it, but its not going to be as goid as spending and hour, if that, riding and tuning.
  8. Tgoranson

    Tgoranson 2018 Africa Twin

    Joined:
    Jan 9, 2017
    Oddometer:
    34
    Location:
    Whitehorse, YT
    Thanks for the info, I sort of figured that the AK-20s would be a bit better, from the sounds of things they actually take the time to do a bit of valving to suit the rider. I have a feeling that the Andreani's might be a bit too road oriented.

    I think I'm just having a hard time walking away from the price...

    I'm definitely going to spend time trying to find settings to suit me though. I figure there's no point spending all this time researching the different components if I'm just going to slap something on out of the box and call it good.
  9. Tgoranson

    Tgoranson 2018 Africa Twin

    Joined:
    Jan 9, 2017
    Oddometer:
    34
    Location:
    Whitehorse, YT
    Pulled the trigger on the AK-20's today. Even though they ended up being about $400 more than the Andreani I think they will suit me better. The reports on Andreani seem to be related to high speed compression. Living in the Yukon, the roads can be pretty rough at times, and the off-road sections are usually very rocky, I think the AK-20's will be better suited to dealing with this. Once both these and my TFX shock show up I will try to remember to put a report in this thread for them. But I will wait for both ends to show up before mounting them, I already have a test ride route planned.
    97707 likes this.
  10. swimmer

    swimmer armchair asshole

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    19,009
    Location:
    Tucson, AZ
    That's all well and good but, you need to start posting some pictures of you and your bike out and about that beautiful part of the world.
  11. swimmer

    swimmer armchair asshole

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    Tucson, AZ
    97707 likes this.
  12. Tgoranson

    Tgoranson 2018 Africa Twin

    Joined:
    Jan 9, 2017
    Oddometer:
    34
    Location:
    Whitehorse, YT
    No new pics from this year yet, I have a few from the last couple seaons but we had a record breaking year for snowfall and it's taking a while for the trails to clear up. I've only been out for a couple road rides so far this year.
  13. Snakeman99

    Snakeman99 Adventurer

    Joined:
    Mar 30, 2008
    Oddometer:
    91
    Location:
    Tucson, Arizona
    Replacing my front fork springs today with Cogent units. After draining the old stock oil, should I add a bit of fresh oil and drain a second time to help flush out the old stuff before I add the final clean amount? The old oil did have a bit of "sheen" to it but not too bad ( after 7,000 miles).

    Attached Files:

  14. Big Willy

    Big Willy Gen. Italia

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    Me personally...I would take them apart and give them a thorough clean. A new set of seals wouldn't hurt either
    PistolPetey likes this.
  15. mentolio

    mentolio King of the island of unwanted toys...

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    Jul 14, 2016
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    1,322
    if you have the fluid to spare, go for it. Understanding that most of your “junk” will likely be piled up in corners and the bottom, so your fluid won’t likely ever look “truly clean” until you break them down and clean them out. You oil doesn’t look terrible, if I were you and I wasn’t looking to pull them all the way apart, I’d probably just add clean fluid and roll with it.
    PistolPetey likes this.
  16. Junglejeff1

    Junglejeff1 Long timer

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    If not to nasty I flush with cheap atf.If nasty I pull down for a cleaning.Yours don't look to bad.
  17. Snakeman99

    Snakeman99 Adventurer

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    Thanks, I ended up adding another 30ml of new oil to help flush out additional residue. It came out pretty clean the second time.
    Junglejeff1 likes this.
  18. Snakeman99

    Snakeman99 Adventurer

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    Mar 30, 2008
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    uh-oh...
    When I assembled my forks I didn't check to make sure the height from the lock nut top surface to the end of the threaded damper rod measured 10.5mm. Is this a critical distance? I'm wondering if I should take them back off and double check. I seem to recall one of the nuts being spun down on the damper rod to a distance > 10.5mm

    IMG_2260.JPG
  19. Motociclo

    Motociclo Long timer

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    If you screwed fork cap all way on, you'll only get about 1.5 turns from rebound adjuster.
    I never bother with the 10.5mm, make sure rebound adjuster is full anti clock out, then turn in 3 to 3.5 turns, make sure nut on rod is all way screwed down, screw on fork cap until it just seats on the needle, then nip up lock nut to cap and test adjuster range is in the 3 to 3.5 region.
    I'll get back to you today about PM.
    Snakeman99 likes this.
  20. Snakeman99

    Snakeman99 Adventurer

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    Mar 30, 2008
    Oddometer:
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    I ended up taking them both off and adjusted the lock nut to the recommended 10.5mm. I was just about right on one, but the other was WAY off and only had about 1 turn of rebound adjustment.