Separate names with a comma.
Discussion in 'Japanese polycylindered adventure bikes' started by uk_mouse, Jun 22, 2016.
PM me springs your using and i will sort a solution. I will offer setips for for kjs and shock.
Thanks for taking the time to help.
Unfortunately I get the error that I'm not allowed to start a conversation with you.
You asked for the spring rate ... unfortunately I don't have that. The previous owner put that spring on and wasn't able to tell me what it was. But I suppose that's a
If I were to re-spring, is there a rate you'd recommend?
Thats odd PM won't play.
Happy to help.
Check spring for markings. Usually something marked on them.
My reco for springs,
Thanks, and with the 10.7 spring, which shim stack?
Will piece together a stack and PM you.
Does any one have opinions on the Andreani kits for our bikes, seems like there's not a tonne of vocal people out there with them. I'm basically l'm looking at these compared to the AK-20's and mmaaaaaaybe the FKA's (if I can stretch my budget). I have a TFX shock on order and am trying to find a fork solution that would suit me.
All varied opinions. Some love the Andr, others, think they are too harsh.
The AK20, they will be best option in my opinion.
Any will be better than stock. Don't be fooled into thinking huge pistons are better in every case. They have there place, but 20mm cartridge in Af Twin is plenty adequate.
Spend the time to set them up post install.
Plenty just buy a setup, bolt and go. Can do it, but its not going to be as goid as spending and hour, if that, riding and tuning.
Thanks for the info, I sort of figured that the AK-20s would be a bit better, from the sounds of things they actually take the time to do a bit of valving to suit the rider. I have a feeling that the Andreani's might be a bit too road oriented.
I think I'm just having a hard time walking away from the price...
I'm definitely going to spend time trying to find settings to suit me though. I figure there's no point spending all this time researching the different components if I'm just going to slap something on out of the box and call it good.
Pulled the trigger on the AK-20's today. Even though they ended up being about $400 more than the Andreani I think they will suit me better. The reports on Andreani seem to be related to high speed compression. Living in the Yukon, the roads can be pretty rough at times, and the off-road sections are usually very rocky, I think the AK-20's will be better suited to dealing with this. Once both these and my TFX shock show up I will try to remember to put a report in this thread for them. But I will wait for both ends to show up before mounting them, I already have a test ride route planned.
That's all well and good but, you need to start posting some pictures of you and your bike out and about that beautiful part of the world.
I found this vendor's website the other day in which they made of table of sag rates vs. load and some other observations about the AT suspension.
No new pics from this year yet, I have a few from the last couple seaons but we had a record breaking year for snowfall and it's taking a while for the trails to clear up. I've only been out for a couple road rides so far this year.
Replacing my front fork springs today with Cogent units. After draining the old stock oil, should I add a bit of fresh oil and drain a second time to help flush out the old stuff before I add the final clean amount? The old oil did have a bit of "sheen" to it but not too bad ( after 7,000 miles).
Me personally...I would take them apart and give them a thorough clean. A new set of seals wouldn't hurt either
if you have the fluid to spare, go for it. Understanding that most of your “junk” will likely be piled up in corners and the bottom, so your fluid won’t likely ever look “truly clean” until you break them down and clean them out. You oil doesn’t look terrible, if I were you and I wasn’t looking to pull them all the way apart, I’d probably just add clean fluid and roll with it.
If not to nasty I flush with cheap atf.If nasty I pull down for a cleaning.Yours don't look to bad.
Thanks, I ended up adding another 30ml of new oil to help flush out additional residue. It came out pretty clean the second time.
When I assembled my forks I didn't check to make sure the height from the lock nut top surface to the end of the threaded damper rod measured 10.5mm. Is this a critical distance? I'm wondering if I should take them back off and double check. I seem to recall one of the nuts being spun down on the damper rod to a distance > 10.5mm
If you screwed fork cap all way on, you'll only get about 1.5 turns from rebound adjuster.
I never bother with the 10.5mm, make sure rebound adjuster is full anti clock out, then turn in 3 to 3.5 turns, make sure nut on rod is all way screwed down, screw on fork cap until it just seats on the needle, then nip up lock nut to cap and test adjuster range is in the 3 to 3.5 region.
I'll get back to you today about PM.
I ended up taking them both off and adjusted the lock nut to the recommended 10.5mm. I was just about right on one, but the other was WAY off and only had about 1 turn of rebound adjustment.