Africa Twin Premature Front Fork Failure (Current Owners and Prospective New owners Must Read)

Discussion in 'Japanese polycylindered adventure bikes' started by bumbee800, Sep 1, 2017.

  1. William Wolfen

    William Wolfen Long timer

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    Call Cogent Dynamics. They'll sort things out for your forks (and shock). I'd pass on the Ohlins. Too expensive and still have the wear issue. My forks are performing great and all I did was change to .72 springs! I'm sure you could get more/better performance from them if you did more. I was on a budget and spent most of my money on the shock upgrade.
    Where_AM_I? likes this.
  2. Where_AM_I?

    Where_AM_I? n00b Supporter

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    Ah yes, the other fork in the road! Just sell this one and upgrade. Lots of new gadgets on the 2020 but I also read that model has character quirks too. I dunno.
  3. Where_AM_I?

    Where_AM_I? n00b Supporter

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    Cogent set me up and rebuilt my forks once. Seals went 15,000 miles later and I still have issues but it’s not terrible. I think I have 0.72 springs too. I’ve lost some weight and have the preload turned way down to zero. I’m at 200 pounds.
  4. gve.mcmlxxiv

    gve.mcmlxxiv 2016 Africa Twin DCT No.272

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    Ditch the ohs, and with that money customize the front forks like you were planning AND send the rear shock to a pro tuner for respring and revalve. Still save close to a grand. I was worried about the forks but honestly having a tuner rework the rear shock did more.
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  5. William Wolfen

    William Wolfen Long timer

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    I have the preload all the way out on mine too, and I'm 250 lbs. It measured 60mm sag out of 230mm travel. Well within acceptable. If you're not getting proper sag, you could try mixing springs. 1 .72 and one stock. I'm not sure I'd do it, but I've heard of a couple others having good luck that way.

    I know I had more concerns about the shock than the forks. So far, I'd say springs alone have done very well for the forks, but the shock upgrades are a massive improvement. I haven't gotten it dialed in yet, but I'm hoping to after tomorrow. I was finally able to set acceptable sag and now I'm just trying to get proper compliance out of the damping. Should be excellent once I'm done fiddling. Best money I've spent on the bike.
  6. gve.mcmlxxiv

    gve.mcmlxxiv 2016 Africa Twin DCT No.272

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    Forks four clicks out from hard stop comp. 40% out of one turn out on rebound
  7. NSFW

    NSFW basecamp4adv Super Supporter

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    how's the SKFs performing after ? miles. i know they are great and had them on my KTMs.

    i had to cut my trip short due to the oem leaked at 12k, again at 22k miles. i was able to slow it down by cleaning them with a flat plastic hook, made out of a pe bottle.

    i bought a pair of oem and will use them if i can't find the kawi seals. hopefully, the SKFs is the answer.
  8. MikefromNL

    MikefromNL Long timer

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    I had OEM leak at 6k and 13k. I've had SKF green seals now for 11k and so far so good.

    This is in km.
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  9. NSFW

    NSFW basecamp4adv Super Supporter

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    do you have a part number of the 2019 atas upper tube?

    ready to bite the bullet, and have these part numbers? not exactly sure which one.

    51410-MKK-D21
    51410-MKK-D01
    51410-MKS-E01
  10. swimmer

    swimmer armchair asshole

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    FYI, not sure where you've checked prices and Revzilla isn't normally a place I look for OEM parts but, they are showing 20% off right now, at least for that first part #.
  11. NorskieRider

    NorskieRider Ultracrepidarian

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    I recently found them for $317 at ronayers, and then my local Honda shop price-matched.

    Attached Files:

  12. RustySpokes

    RustySpokes Ordinary average guy Supporter

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    I used the 51410-MKK-D21 tubes.

    I also used the ATAS lowers to get more bushing overlap to try and prevent wear on the new tubes. Not sure it’s really necessary but I figured why not.
  13. NSFW

    NSFW basecamp4adv Super Supporter

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    my go to store is RMATVMC

    :thumb

    i appreciate the quick reply. next week, i will order the uppers.

    do you mean the ATAS lower is longer? that makes sense as far as the overlap, moving the slider higher in the upper tube.
  14. RustySpokes

    RustySpokes Ordinary average guy Supporter

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  15. PistolPetey

    PistolPetey Been here awhile Supporter

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    I've got 16,000kms on my SKFs after switching out the OEMs at 8,000kms. No seal savers, lots of mud, dust and grime. Totally recommended.
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  16. Greg the pole

    Greg the pole There are no stupid questions, only stupid people

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    the OD doesn't change.
    It's the same from 16-18 ATs, ATAS, and oHHHlins. All slide right into the triples.
    What changes is where the fork tapers before the lower triple. See below. And yes the ones to the left are the OHs after the coating wore on them.
    Due to them skimping on a few grams of AL, the thinner part of the fork between the bell end and lower triple flexes. The annodizing is like paint on a wall. If your wall is not solid, paint will flake off.
    I think it went something like this: 1mm additional thickness is 5x stronger fork tube.
    [​IMG]
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  17. Greg the pole

    Greg the pole There are no stupid questions, only stupid people

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    Morning! dunno...I don't think it should be a consumable. I re-coated my Beta 300 forks at 125 hrs. I was in there last week, bike is now at 225 hrs. The amount of logs, and rocks that I plowed into with these forks, flipped, dropped and bottomed out the fork, the anno is actually holding up. Yes its a dirt bike, but it gets worked.
    The AT should have come with 48mm as standard. It's a shame that the bike needed that much money to get right, to make it work as advertised. It was a good bike. It wasn't a great bike. I was honest in the below

    The Ohs were much stiffer, with less flex, but had their issues too. Not worth the money. https://advrider.com/f/threads/hot-for-the-ohlins-on-the-at-read-on.1399773/
    My 1090 got put away with 5400km this winter. Lots of dust, dirt, and mud. No issues on the seals, and the OEM suspension is 90% there for me right out of the box.
    I'll likely have little niggles with the bike (cheap fuel connections, suspect air box-with the unis it was spotless at 5400km), but I'm very happy with it.
  18. NorskieRider

    NorskieRider Ultracrepidarian

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    I'd be concerned that the longer lower tube could contact the top of the fork if it bottoms out. Nor is it easy / inexpensive to swap the lower tube.

    Another thought is to use the Racetech bushings instead of Honda's, they claim to do a better job of preventing deflection and binding. And of course ... check play in the shafts to determine if shimming is necessary.
  19. RustySpokes

    RustySpokes Ordinary average guy Supporter

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    The tubes are the exact same length as the regular AT. They function the same as stock and won’t mess anything up if the fork bottoms.
    If you have the forks apart for any reason swapping the lowers only takes installing the bushing as far extra work. ETA: And if you have the fork apart you need to take the bushing off to swap seals anyway.
    But yeah, there is cost involved...
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  20. NSFW

    NSFW basecamp4adv Super Supporter

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    thanks Rusty for the replies.

    that link is a great source of info and Motociclo did an awesome service to us.

    https://advrider.com/f/threads/another-crf1000l-fork-thread-reg-vs-adv-sport-forks.1346588/
    PistolPetey and RustySpokes like this.