Aftermarket leavers and perches with switches

Discussion in 'Some Assembly Required' started by Hay Ewe, Sep 24, 2021.

  1. Hay Ewe

    Hay Ewe Just a Wannabe

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    I am doing bit of a project updating a 1997 R1100GS, requiring it all, using a motogadget, convention bars and switches from BikeSport Developments (@flipflopdog thanks for the lead on those, I like them very much). Also using a Domino throttle.

    Beacuse of this, using the original BMW levers / perches is not possible.

    it’s a bit remote where I live, when I do get to the local city that has a wreckers they are not very helpful at all ( I think they are a front for other activities) and the local shop is for ATV, Mowers, and the like. The other local shop which is best, only has a small range and they recently moved, throwing out a lot of stuff.

    What I am after is a clutch lever and perch assy that has a switch in it that allows me to be able to start in gear, just like other moto’s and a brake lever / perch / master cylinder assembly, with a switch to activate the brake light.

    Often when I explain to people that and mention BMW - even though that is only the running gear, most often the response is “no, nothing for BMW here, you need to go to the dealer” . They seem to disregard the fact that it’s got a set of pro taper bars and being rebuilt.

    I see some nice looking stuff on line but limited descriptions / information.
    There has to be something out there that I haven’t found yet, any help and links please?
    Thanks
    #1
  2. VX Rider

    VX Rider Long timer

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  3. Hay Ewe

    Hay Ewe Just a Wannabe

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    Hi @VX Rider - thank you for the link, but that is just another online parts store it seems to me.
    I am looking for / needing specifics, such, yes, I replaced the front brake lever and reservior assembly with XYZ. For the clutch I used XXX etc

    Surely somebody has changed the levers and perchers from what came as standard to something else?

    Thanks
    #3
  4. tinwelp

    tinwelp Professional Idiot

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    Hay, it's not really clear what you want... or I'm not understanding why this is an issue.

    If you want a cable-clutch lever assembly with a built in switch, pick any reasonably modern bike with cable-clutch, check the bar size isn't a weird (almost everything is 22mm or 7/8" at the extremes, but it'd be wise to check), and buy new/used appropriately. Aprilia Pegaso 650 springs immediately to mind, because there's one still in my workshop, although parts are becoming rare now. Similarly the BMW Funduro of the late '90s. Or pick any of the cheap far-eastern bike manufacturers and you'll likely come up trumps. Similarly aftermarket stuff. Five minutes of googling will give you a solution that'll work.

    For the front brake, pick absolutely any bike with the same master cylinder bore size as your original bike and you'll probably be happy. Universal stuff will work fine too, from cheap Asian crap to Brembo adjustable stuff. How much do you want to spend is the real question. I suspect everything you'll find will have a built in switch, but if it doesn't, just fit a brake-line banjo screw with an integrated pressure switch. Again, five minutes of googling will give you what you want.

    Forget about the specifics of what you're trying to do and focus on the generalities: you want clutch and brake lever assemblies with integrated switches... that's it. The fact you're fitting them to a BMW is of no importance, and trying to find someone that's already done exactly what you want to do, simply to copy them, is just adding complication.

    Look here, one single google enquiry taking less than five SECONDS netted me this: https://www.lightinthebox.com/fr/p/...yXb1oOqhF27hoAWuUidl9ldd6w_sG6RxoC0ScQAvD_BwE

    I'm not saying buy this (the master cylinder size is likely not what you want), but a little "out of the box" thinking is all it takes.

    Go google!

    Cheers... Paul
    #4
  5. Luke

    Luke GPoET&P

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    On the clutch side, KTM LC4 may have what you want. '02 and earlier are cable based, '03+ are hydraulic. The switches are normally open, and close when you pull the clutch in. You could use a relay to reverse that. On the brake side, I'd use a hydraulic pressure switch. Most MCs are M10, but some have conical seal fittings and some have face seals for banjo fittings. Also there are different thread pitches. IIRC Brembo uses fine thread (1.0mm pitch), Nissin uses a coarse thread (1.25mm pitch)
    #5
  6. Hay Ewe

    Hay Ewe Just a Wannabe

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    Thank you for the replies.
    The lever assemblies that @tinwelp found look pretty good and close to what I want.
    I have been very general, and totaly agree and understand that what they are being fitted to is no consequence.
    I would very much like to know what tinwelp put in to google to find that set, i havent had any such joy.
    When I have contacted organisations, pretty much the first thing they ask is what bike.
    I say they are going on to a set of Pro-Taper bars - but what make / model / year, I tell them its a BMW engine and gear box, with WR450F forks.
    "nah, we havent got anything for that"
    Of course you havent!

    Thanks for help so far
    #6
  7. tinwelp

    tinwelp Professional Idiot

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    Hay,
    I've just looked back in my browser history... my google search terms were "motorcycle clutch lever assembly", then I looked in 'shopping results' and visually picked something appropriate. I kid you not, it was a five second exercise.

    Just be aware that google searches are highly regional. You'll get very different results from google.com than from google.com.au or google.co.uk. So if you're struggling, set your browser appropriately and retry.

    Most bike shops will list their stock items against the intended application, so asking for a 'universal fit' can confuse the crap out of them. You may go into the shop with an open mind for the solution, but notice how they immediately try to make your request fit their template, then reject it because it doesn't fit what they expect to hear?

    Do your own research first, following two routes: 1) universal stuff, in which case you need to know exactly what you want (master cylinder bore size, switch type, lever span...) and where the constraints are (such as bar size); or 2) specific stuff, for which you simply pick a number of popular bikes that are likely to have good spares back-up, and see if their parts will work for you. If you do find a specific solution, only then you can go to the sort of shops you've already made enquiries at and, for example, ask for a clutch lever assembly for a 2004 Honda XL600 (I've no idea if that bike even exists, so don't quote me on that). The key is to avoid target fixation... if that XL600 lever is unobtainable, move onto your next selection. In other words, if they want to hear "make/model/year", give them precisely that.

    Experience shows solution 2 is often more expensive than 1, unless the set of popular bikes you choose are of Asian origin, in which case parts seem to cost pennies. Just keep in mind the quality, and potentially the reliability, of the parts you choose, particularly for safety critical stuff. Personally, I stick with the well-known brands for brake parts, from companies that develop the pieces to suit the purpose, not just make something that looks right... but that's just me.

    Good luck.

    Cheers... Paul
    #7
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  8. flinders_72

    flinders_72 Long timer

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    One thing that may confuse the issue is that on some bikes the switches are normally open and close when you pull the lever and some are the other way around. For example, I've just de-servo'd my 1150RT and found out that its switches work the opposite way to the 1150R (no ABS).

    In saying that, most bike's switches will close on pulling the lever to complete the circuit.
    #8
  9. tinwelp

    tinwelp Professional Idiot

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    Agreed, but a simple relay can fix the problem if it's the wrong way around.

    Cheers... Paul
    #9
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