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Airhead Flea Market Discussion Thread.

Discussion in 'Airheads' started by bone13, Jun 12, 2013.

  1. Plaka

    Plaka Brevis illi vita est

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    Suspension is very expensive. I would hesitate. Get them to knock off 500 for a new seat and another 250 for not bothering to give it a tune up.

    When you say no blow by, what are you looking at?
  2. Retumbo7

    Retumbo7 Engineer

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    That's unfortunate about suspension, I was hoping the older technology would be less maintenance intensive than more modern forks/shock.

    Is a seat really $500 as well? If these things are really that expensive I might as well just get another KTM

    RE blowby: I've never owned a boxer bike, but one way to tell whether a flat-4 or flat-6 (VW, Porsche) has a bad ring/cylinder is that if you have the exhaust blow on your hand and it leaves oil residue.
  3. aptbldr

    aptbldr easy rider

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    Seems like a good price for the buyer-to-ride. Not such a good price for the buyer-to-resell.
    Retumbo7 likes this.
  4. Plaka

    Plaka Brevis illi vita est

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    remove a rocker cover and look for deposits on the head from exhaust gasses blowing by the exhaust valve guide.

    forks are not so much to rebuild. Get a kit, put it in. But this speaks of poor maintenance. If the oil was getting changed they would be fine. Shock may or may not be rebuildable depending on whose it is.

    Look for seats on ebay and consult with an upholsterer.
    Retumbo7 likes this.
  5. R100PDave

    R100PDave Super Dave

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    Mar 28, 2006
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    Great White North,Manitoba
    :thumbPotential!
    Retumbo7 likes this.
  6. Disston

    Disston ShadeTreeExpert

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    Buy it.

    Needs a valve adjustment and sometimes that is a little deeper but rarely.

    Most worry some is rust on bottom edge of tank. If the rust comes from water in the gas it will hole the tank but this takes time. Look for blisters in the paint on the bottom of tank. Don't prick them. The paint can be all that holds the rust and gas in.

    This still sounds like a good deal.
    Retumbo7 likes this.
  7. Retumbo7

    Retumbo7 Engineer

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    Thank you all for your insight. After doing a bit more digging, it appears as though the current owner purchased this bike as-is from the PO who had it stored in a garage for a while and the seller decided it required too much work to return to its former glory. It definitely has signs of sitting for awhile, and I would likely do a moderate restoration of the bike. From what I can tell, assuming the engine/transmission/shaft is good, I'm looking at the following parts expenditures:

    New Front Master Cylinder
    New Seat
    New (rebuild?) Forks
    New Shock
    New Tank
    New Tires

    I'm mechanically capable of performing a full restoration myself, but the question is it worth it? I value my time pretty highly, so if it takes $2500 to get the bike and $1500 in parts and I'm left with a $4000 bike after hours of labor, I'd rather just find a better condition R100 and call it a day. Things start to make more sense if I have a $5500+ bike at the end.
    aptbldr likes this.
  8. nmalozzi

    nmalozzi airheaded

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    Denver, CO
    With the listed expenditures you’re well over $1500 in parts. So if that’s the number you’re trying to hit you either need to talk the seller down significantly or walk.
    aptbldr likes this.
  9. Retumbo7

    Retumbo7 Engineer

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    I'm just trying to end up in the black when it's all said and done. From what it sounds like this isn't possible unless he comes down at least $500, possibly more.
  10. Plaka

    Plaka Brevis illi vita est

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    if the seat pan is solid talk to an upholster. most of the tanks I see on Ebar are either north of 350 or they need relining (ie, rusty inside). fork rebuild kit +oil is maybe 100, a lot of that for the oil. Rear shock ca be high ticket if you have to buy a new one. I believe the rockers on that engine use shims to set the end play. So if that is off you need to buy shims. If the valves are just out of adjustment you have to ask why on just one side. It could be a larger hassle like a pulled cylinder stud. At any rate valves should never be out of adjustment. You can hear it and you correct it. So again, bad maintenance. A higher mileage machine that has been maintained well is a better bet. What is your cost to get it from where it is to you house?

    People buy paint and shine. If the bike looks decent the seller knows a sucker will give him his price on that alone, eventually. This works against you.
  11. Retumbo7

    Retumbo7 Engineer

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    Appreciate the info.

    It's 22 city blocks away (which is why I went to look at it), so distance is a non-issue. He is still waiting on receiving the title in the mail from the state, so I have some time to shop around. If I haven't found anything by then I'll go take another look at it and be more thorough in my evaluation (compression test, remove valve cover, etc.), and if everything checks out I'll pull out a $2,000 wad of fresh Benjamins and see what happens.
  12. Plaka

    Plaka Brevis illi vita est

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    Stress to him that the bike must be stone cold when you show up. If he's warmed it up that means it has starting problems. Also you want to pull both rocker covers and check for blow by, oth plugs and eyeball them, then sort the clattery valves. As long as it's cold just set the valves, takes a few minutes. Don't sweat excessive end play. Do sweat lots of little needles scattered around the inside of the rocker cover. Do sweat a cylinder stud that sticking a lot more through the nut than the others. Put a torque wrench on that one and see if it's stripped.

    I would skip the compression teat. Nickasil top end at that mileage has little wear. And if it's been burning oil from a bad guide it will be carboned up which will increase the compression past what one would expect.

    I would inspect the piston crown and valve lips. Use a Streamlight Stylus Reach flashlight. $22 on amazon and use Prime so you get it quick. You will use this for a lot but start by sticking it down the spark plug hole and observing the piston crown and valve lips. Closed valves should be proud of the seats, not sunken. Then use it to find the timing mark to set valves.

    With properly set valves button it up and it should fire up readily. If not add $125 for a battery.

    If the guy won't let you do this stuff, ask him what he's hiding, and walk away. There is always another one.
    Retumbo7 likes this.
  13. Retumbo7

    Retumbo7 Engineer

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    Very good advice. I always do a similar pre-sale shakedown test for Porsches of similar vintage, and I guess I was in the mindset "worst case scenario it's $2k," but you are correct - I should not compromise my values irrespective of whether I'm spending $2 or $200,000.

    Also I want to stress that it's an *indicated* 24,000 miles. Having restored 911s for a living, I know the odometer reading is about as valuable as a seller's word.
  14. Plaka

    Plaka Brevis illi vita est

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    Check the usual suspects: wear on the footpegs (some guy duct taping the seat isn't going to replace footpeg rubber), wear on the brake pedal, side slop in the shifter pedal, wear on the front brake disc, on the sidestand see how much of the centerstand is worn away, etc.

    On the centerstand see how the front end feels side to side. You are feeling for bad bearings. Wheel and swingarm bearings can be abused and keep on trucking, not steering head bearings.

    Put a timing light on it and look for an unstable timing mark indicating a worn timing chain. Lotta miles.
  15. Big Bamboo

    Big Bamboo Aircooled & Sunbaked Supporter

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    Didn't we recently determine that the wear on the brake pedal was not an accurate indicator of mileage?
    durtwurm, R100PDave and brittrunyon like this.
  16. Plaka

    Plaka Brevis illi vita est

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    depends on whether it's a disc or drum brake
    aptbldr likes this.
  17. Retumbo7

    Retumbo7 Engineer

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    Can you please elaborate? My drum brake-foo is weak.
  18. OLD GREEN

    OLD GREEN Long timer Supporter

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    I'd think it would depend on whether or not it was the bikes original brake pedal more than anything, its not exactly a difficult item to replace. Every bike has a story, some are more believable than others... :johntm
    Uke and Texer like this.
  19. Plaka

    Plaka Brevis illi vita est

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    that was a joke on the recent drum vs disc debate.
  20. cantupshift

    cantupshift Been here awhile

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    The pessemist in me says replacing a rear brake lever with a lower mileage model or new would be a good way to deduct 100k miles.