Separate names with a comma.
Discussion in 'Airheads' started by elmoreman, Sep 26, 2006.
i like that tool. the red tools are the fastest.
I might have just over-shared...
I changed my mind - it doesn't have the "pull open feature that keeps small screwdrivers in their drawers.
Boy, I'm a real tool nerd and own more tools, old and new, than I'll ever need but I don't own one of those.
I did happen to have one Those tools lying around.
edit: it was just a regular vice. thankfully it wasn't gapped too small, I don't know what I would have done. Send them back, I suppose
unlike this "original version" mine, also my CTA is American made. from the pics on amazon I can tell mine is higher quality. will not work with a plug that has 4 side electrodes. there were some wire types that would but they had square loops not round ones. looks like the press type gappers could be hard on your feeler gauges with a plug like the bosch platinum and they have no provision for opening the gap. the discs open just the tips of the side electrode without putting any pressure elsewhere on the plug, unlike a screwdriver which prys off the center electrode..
Here's a good trick to cheaply increase fuel range without the need to waste time with jerry cans. An Australian Nomad auxilliary tank, sold as 7.5 litres capacity, but will hold 8.3 litres to the brim. This one is mounted on a kitchen cutting board and is plumbed through a Y piece into the main fuel lines so it can be used first to remove excess weight from the rear of the subframe.
The way it is mounted on the board means it can be situated at the front or rear of the subframe.
Oz doesn't require fuel containers to be red? Where I live that's a law, although I have never seen anyone busted for it's violation.
There is a distinct click when I rotate to and fro the rear wheel of my R100R. I assume the drive shaft U-joints are in failure mode. What are my options, apart from BMW OEM? I see the Ted Porter's shop and EuroMotoElectrics offers an after market replacement. Are there others? Years ago I think there was a shop in California that rebuilt the OEM drive shafts. I think it was Henderson, or something similar. Ideas? Suggestions? TIA
who are you talking to?
what thread are you posting in? Seriously, I would move your post and put it on top where everybody will see it.
Post 2228 addresses aux. fuel containers on the rear rack of the bike.
opps, my bad!
That one would be my bad. I forget how many people around here I don't see.
Out of interest, how many people re-torque the heads every time they do the tappets?
As a long term Guzzi owner it seems overkill unless I’m missing something.
nope. happen to know Matt Parkhouse quit doing it too. On the early heads the rocker end play needs set so 4 of the head bolts will need retorque to do that.
Interesting, I have the later 1000cc heads on my bike, think I’m just going to do the tappets and not bother with the re-torque. Save the issue with the studs pulling out of the cases as well.
About ten or fifteen years ago this seemed to be common. Then it was suggested every other time may be better. Currently not very often at all unless you see loosening of the lateral movement or have some other reason.
With a new head gasket after buttoning up the top end retorque after 50 miles or so and again at 500 miles.
A retorque is not done like the original installation. Don't loosen all the nuts at once. Undo each in turn and tighten that one to final torque. No steps in torque setting. Loosen then apply final torque. Finish with one before moving on to the next.
These directions are similar to others but they are mine and some may have a minor protest or two to my methods. We can't all be perfect.
we can all be perfect except you tho'