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Discussion in 'Airheads' started by elmoreman, Sep 26, 2006.
It is your perfection that will lead to your downfall, Plaka.
my downfall is long in my past Disston.
Plaka, how about: bin down so long - looks like up to me?
I'm so far down, I have to look up to see bottom.
Such a happy place....
My favourite comedy duo !
I’m with The DA. I’ve taken my tank off a dozen or more times and always have to pry and pull and twist on the fuel line at the petcock ribs (running wires, rebuilding MC, adjusting brake line tension, cleaning corroded frame under leaking MC, replacing failed electronic ignition, etc). I’m more afraid of snapping the plastic petcocks than anything else. Love the washer idea. I can see how the quick disconnects I’ve seen on the web would be too long for the space allowed but it would be nice.
Just make sure the washer is facing the right way around or it will screw up the petcock nipples.
That happened to me years ago, I bought new petcocks with the metal ends.
Were the final airhead gearboxes manufactured with the infamous circlip, or did BMW save those 50 pfennings until the very end of the line?
If '95 is the last year of Airheads the circlip came back sometime in '94. But it is a little more confusing and it seems the change either way, in the beginning or the end, the lines are not hard. I think if you have a '95 you can be pretty sure you have the circlip. If you have a '94 it's iffy. Some don't believe either way until they open the box.
Snowbum did a big survey on boxes that were opened and recorded trans serial numbers of which is which. To really get into that check out Snowbum's Tech pages.
it’s also occurred to me from reading all the input that maybe I have 1/4” line and not 7mm. I need pliers to twist the lines off the petcock nipples (more nipples than pornhub here these days)
A dab of silicone grease helps them go on and off the metal nipples.
Thanks, 100. I just bought some braided 7mm hose from a BMW shop and it is different than what I have on now. The PO must have switched all the lines to 1/4”.
I only use 1/4 inch and it is indeed tight. use washers at the tank. When I was running saddle tanks I got a pair of hose pliers because there were so many connections.
The braided 7mm is used on vintage VW's and an online VW place might have it a lot cheaper than BMW.
My February 93 did not have the circling or the groove.
(Damn you autocorrect..."circlip")
Nor does my '93 R100R, I think you have to get well into the '95 model year to find the return of the factory circlip.
My brake and clutch levers at the handlebars developed significant vertical slop. Understandable after tens of thousands of actuations. This is on my 1975 R90/6 with 75,000 miles, a daily rider.
These levers pivot on nylon bushings, identical on both sides. The pivot bushings are originals which came with the bike when new. The full p/n is 32 72 1 232 662. The fiche suggests that the same part was used from /5 though the end of Airhead production, but check before ordering:
Removal of the clutch lever is simple. Release the cable at the gearbox, then at the lever, be sure not to lose the brass ferrule which goes over the nipple, unscrew the 10mm bolt, push out the pivot pin from below and the lever comes out. On my /6 the brake lever needs a little more work. First, loosen the adjuster on the under tank ATE brake fluid reservoir and release the cable. The large screw for the throttle cam assembly at the handlebar is then undone, the cover plate removed after sliding back the protective rubber sleeve for the throttle cables (32 73 1 230 037 - probably a good time to renew it), and the cam assembly moved out of the way. The slotted pivot screw can now be accessed from above, with a 10mm socket below.
You can force out the old bushing with the new one - I use a soft blow hammer over a workbench with a hole in it, but a C clamp with a small socket on the receiving end would work as well. Here's the old bushing partially pushed out by the new (right) - it's a tight friction fit:
The new bushing in place on the brake lever. The arrow denotes the wear caused from the slop in the lever, which allows the land area to abrade the inside of the lever housing. I generously grease the receiving hole for the brass cable nipple before reassembly:
Here's the old bushing - 46 years on it:
Curiously, it measures the same as a new one, meaning 11.5/8.0mm OD/ID, suggesting that the cause of the slop is deterioration and softening of the nylon, not loss of dimensional integrity. The difference is night and day, with near zero slop at the end of the lever, compared with 3-5mm either side of center with the old bushings.
While the fiche shows the pivot pin is secured with a star, toothed washer and nut, I dislike star washers for the damage they cause to metal, preferring a wave washer and a new nylock nut. The latter are not reusable. The latter is tightened just enough to prevent binding of the lever with no cable attached. While the bushing nylon should be 'self-lubriacting', whatever that means, a touch of bearing grease does no harm on the pivot pins before reassembly.
This is also a good time to check the felt rings on the cables are present and intact - they nestle inside the adjusters at the handlebars and at the brake fluid reservoir. P/n 32 72 1 231 610. You need three.
In the past some riders have found new bushing will be too tight. Not having the proper sized honing tool they have honed the bushing with a drill bit.
Yes I did this with my bushings as a field expedient method. It worked OK but I picked up this cheap reamer on Amazon for the next Tech day.