Airhead "Tips and Tricks"

Discussion in 'Airheads' started by elmoreman, Sep 26, 2006.

  1. halflive

    halflive Been here awhile

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  2. NSR400

    NSR400 Been here awhile Supporter

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    Got my RT project on the road, now it's time to start working on the rest of the list. Rear shocks need to be replaced. Ran a few search's here, but the info was random.
    Any good suggestions ? It's a dual shock, R100RT / 83
  3. Plaka

    Plaka Brevis illi vita est

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    how much do you want to spend? (I know, dumb question)
  4. Jim K in PA

    Jim K in PA Long timer Supporter

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    From Hagon to Ikon to Ohlins, there's a selection of price points and quality. How much load do you plan to carry? How finicky are you about adjustability? What kind of riding do you plan for this bike? This is why in the other thread I suggested contacting some of the preferred vendors and discuss with them some of the above points and get a shock that meets your expectations.

    As Plaka said, how much you want to spend will likely direct your search more specifically.
  5. sprouty115

    sprouty115 Long timer Supporter

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    YSS...very happy with my choice.

    20190704_112853.jpg

    "Designed & Tested in Holland. Manufactured in Thailand

    Top quality in a mid-level shock with ABE & TUV certification. YSS means value"



    • Steel Cylinder, Teflon Piston Bands for long service life
    • 16mm hardened CrMoly shaft
    • Hydraulic or Manual Preload Adjust
    • Length Adjust standard on most models
    • Entry level to 3-way adjustability
    • Fully rebuildable
    • 2-Year warranty
    Uke, NSR400, Achtung and 2 others like this.
  6. aptbldr

    aptbldr easy rider

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    Gazi is a low-price option, says a satisfied old guy.
    SmittyBlackstone likes this.
  7. nmalozzi

    nmalozzi airheaded

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    I liked the YSS on my 83. Same ones Sprouty posted above. They were a tad stiff, but that’s what I wanted. Bike felt very sporty loaded and unloaded, but didn’t suck up all the bumps like my tired stock shocks.
  8. NSR400

    NSR400 Been here awhile Supporter

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    Who did you get them from ? Been looking around, not much is stock.
    Boxer 2 Valve has this one in stock
    YSS Shock Set, Stepless Preload Adjustment

    [​IMG]
  9. TommyCareless

    TommyCareless Break Down Connoisseur

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    R75/6 front brake switch alternative. Is that a common part or do I have to use one of the usual suspects.

    Thanks,
    ~T
  10. melville

    melville Long timer

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    Yes, a common part. But it's hell getting the NAPA guy to go fetch you a brakelight switch with 1/8" male NPT. "What's the VIN?"

    Bring your old one in to the auto parts store and compare.
    TommyCareless likes this.
  11. sprouty115

    sprouty115 Long timer Supporter

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    Ted Porter. Good recommendations for springs and they were an immediate improvement over the blown-out stock units.
    NSR400 likes this.
  12. NSR400

    NSR400 Been here awhile Supporter

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    Ted porter to the rescue, only took a few days to get, they work well. Still need to fine turn them later this weekend.

    IMG_2537.jpg

    IMG_2538.jpg
    pietas, globalt38, bike41 and 4 others like this.
  13. Frank smith

    Frank smith R1200GSA, R80RT, 350 EXC-F Supporter

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    Wilburs is another Euro brand. Not value priced, but not through the roof like Ohlins.
  14. Ponobill

    Ponobill Adventurer

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    Thanks for all the tips folks. It's been many years since I did any serious work on an airhead (used to be a BMW motorcycle mechanic in the 70's), there's a lot of wisdom and experience in these 114 pages. I've considered printing them out for easy access. I've incorporated a lot of the tips into the minor rebuild I'm doing to this 1990 R100GS sort of PD I acquired. Circlip for the output shaft and replaced the pawl spring in the transmission, new rebuildable driveshaft, powder-coated the subframe and crash bars, new rear brake shoes, and a bunch of fiddly stuff like adding a fuse box with LED blown fuse indication instead of a bunch of inline fuses. I'm going to reread all 114 pages and take notes. I plan to ride the wheels off this thing. Oh, and for what it's worth, the Cycleworks transmission shim plate is a lot better than the factory plate--it's much thicker (.750) so you can measure down to the bearing to calculate shim thickness. It's a bit easier that way

    Attached Files:

    murin, sprouty115, dazz and 2 others like this.
  15. tennessee thumper

    tennessee thumper Long timer Supporter

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    PB,

    Looking good. I like the red subframe---nice touch to spice it up a bit.

    Post some more on this in the pics thread or make one about your bike. Love to hear more about how it's going for you.

    Cheers!
    sprouty115 and SmittyBlackstone like this.
  16. Ponobill

    Ponobill Adventurer

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    Thaks, the red subframe is sort of a lift from the factory Paris-Dakar bikes HPN built, though they were all over the map as far as appearance goes. I do have a question for the group. I put the transmission back together and I was quite careful with the shim measurements. The cover went on with no real drama and everything went more or less as I remembered it--aided by watching lots of videos on the process. Now that it's all together it's stiff as hell, I expected some of that. I remember giving the input shaft a good whack with a rubber mallet, so I did that, and everything turns. But I don't remember it being so stiff. I can turn the shafts, and shift it (sort of) but I'm a bit nervous about how tight it feels. I expect I'll just finish putting it back together, ride it a bit and see how it seems. But any words of wisdom would be welcome.
  17. Disston

    Disston ShadeTreeExpert Supporter

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    I wonder what clearance for the shims you used? I've tried my own rebuilds a couple of times and the part of the job that makes me scratch my head is always the shim process and what figures to try for.

    Current transmission have wanted to change for a few years but it's not bad and has newer bearings. IT is loose but always has been I think. Have another ready but have taken it apart a few times just to check the stack.

    When I read the transmission threads it seems the expert advice is to go for looser rather than tighter.

    So may be barking up the wrong tree as they say. If everything else is OK it's just the one part that is kinda mystical. Maybe one of the pros will set us straight.
  18. Ponobill

    Ponobill Adventurer

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    I'm afraid that's the right tree. I used .05MM as the end float, which is the lower end of the spec. With other inaccuracies adding up I think that's a newb mistake. As soon as I have some coffee this morning I'm going to go pull it back apart again and set to .1mm
    Disston likes this.
  19. 100RT

    100RT Long timer

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    From Brooks Airhead rebuild. His worksheet:
    23 BMW 1983 R100RS Assemble Transmission | Brook's Airhead Garage

    Rebuild video:
    (66) 1983 BMW R100RS Assemble Transmission - YouTube

    May be of interest to others.
  20. Disston

    Disston ShadeTreeExpert Supporter

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    Super Shaft who doesn't post here anymore also recommended the loose side of the tolerance but said the input being closer to the tight was what he did. It was one of the few things he said was more of an impression that being the out right dictates of his preachings.