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Discussion in 'Dakar champion (950/990)' started by TheLimeyID, Jul 9, 2019.
shims are shims, what ever is the best price and the correct size.
But beware shims vary some they are not exactly what is printed on them.
Seems to be the same if it's oem shims or aftermarket.
And all feeler gauges I have checked seems to be a tiny bit thicker then what they are marked with.
Just shoot for the loose side of things and it all works out. People get hung up on getting exact clearances, when in reality a little loose is safer for the .000001 of a horse power you loose from the tiny bit of less valve opening.
That's good to know!
I noticed that some shim sets have 0.025 increments, whereas most are only 0.050. Based on what you've said, I ordered the 84 piece AHL set for $42 from ebay. =)
Limey I've seen those shims from AHL , I was going to order a set myself but was worried as they're made in China, does anyone know if they're any good?
I have the shims, but I have no frame of reference as to their quality. I don't have a micrometer, so I just set my vernier caliper on the old shim, then found the biggest size from the box of AHL ones that would fit in the gap to find the size; then picked a new shim based on that. So, if the AHL one are not exactly correct in size it doesn't really matter (as long as they are all wrong the same amount). The valves all have the correct clearances now so that's an improvement. =) ...I'm assuming the quality issue would only be with them not being quite the correct size, not that they will disintegrate in the engine. =O
...HOWEVER, one the M8 bolts holding the front cylinder valve bridge were stuck pretty well, and I guess I didn't get the hex bit in all the way on one and it slipped out under the force and screwed up the hole. I hammered the hex bit into it and tried again and managed to get it out, but I don't want to put that bolt back in. So, I have to find a new one in the area, or wait another week or two for one from online.
...then I decided to get the new water pump seal put in, so I could at least get the side of the engine back on. "Pry out the old seal" it says (or something along those lines). It was in there tight! I eventually ended up hammering an electrical screwdriver through it, that helped. However, I also went into the bearing behind the seal. So, two new bearings for the water pump as well.
At least it gives me more time to get the bike cleaned up well while the engine is out, and I should be able to get the oil gauge installed on the dashboard. ...and get the new front brake pads installed.
Thanks limey, it was more a case of,(is it made of cheese and destroy my head).
If that happens then I'll just give up and become a luddite.
While waiting for the new water pump bearings and valve bridge bolt, I got the oil gauge installed...
The new water pump bearings arrived yesterday. After a little confusion in training the old ones (I trying to push both bearings or at once, not realizing that there was a circlip between them).
After getting the old ones out I noticed that there was a degree of "lumpiness" to the one I hadn't jammed a screwdriver through. I took it apart and found some small pieces of metal in there! It's probably a good thing I changed them!
Having got the new bearings in and the can bring bolt in I decided to clean the parts up before reassembly (I'd been planning on doing this before the parts arrived, but time got away from me again).
After cleaning the radiator I remembered that the overflow tank was hard to see the level in and thought I would rinse it out. I could see a bunch of dark particles stuck to the walls inside. Rinsing didn't help, so I tried adding the balls from one of the old water pump bearings. That didn't help much, but they came out sticky. I tried using an old bottle brush I had; that came out covered in dark grease or thick old oil. I put some Purple Power degreaser in the tank and scrubbed it about with the bottle brush and it's all clean now. I assume that means the water pump seals were, or have at some point been, leaking.
Hopefully I'll have time to get the engine back in this afternoon, then I'll just have to get all the other bits back on and I'll be back on the road ...hopefully!
The black residue is from the rad hoses, check for "bulging" around clips, it's a sign that they're past there best.
Lol, of course! Something else to replace ...and wait for
I did think it was odd that the hoses connected to the radiator were quite a bit larger in diameter along their body than at their ends. ...I assume that's the bulge I'm looking for.
I got to putting the pickup great back on and realised I couldn't torque it because I didn't have a 46mm socket, I used an 18" adjustable spanner to undo it. $28 later I had a 1-13/16" socket and a 1/2 to 3/4” adapter so I could put it on my big torque wrench.
How do you stop the engine turning in order to apply 130Nm of pressure to that nut???
...I bent a regular coach bolt in the engine locking hole, not enough that I couldn't get it back out though thankfully.
Are the KTM locking bolts stronger? Would a cut off screwdriver or allen key work?
With the engine in the bike, Put bike in gear, Run a strap from one side of the swingarm thru the spokes to the other side of the swingarm. Not sure if engine is out.
Aye limey as we say "They're a right bastard "
Is this the kind of bulging you were referring to? ...
Aye limey, it deteriorates from the inside and leaves the black residue in the expansion tank,( total bastard getting it clean, even putting it in the wee woman's dish washer didn't do it).
I got the tank clean using degreaser and a bottle brush, so that'll be a huge improvement.
I just ordered all new hoses and clamps for the coolant system. ...$126 including shipping and the official KTM engine locking bolt! ...and it won't be here until the 10th-12th!
I can still get the engine back in the frame though!
I'm hoping to have it back on the road (preferably running well) before my birthday at the end of the month!
Excellent limey, hopefully everything will go okay , hey might even see you on some part of the T.E.T UK.