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Discussion in 'Dakar champion (950/990)' started by TheLimeyID, Jul 9, 2019.
I think I saw on here Cascade works good to clean the inside of the overflow.
The TET looks like a LOT of fun!, ...unfortunately I'm not going to be back in the UK with time to spare for that for a LONG time. It's going on my "to do" list though =)
If the locking bolt you are talking about is the one that you use to lock the engine when doing valve checks....I would not apply 130Nm to the nut with the engine just being held by the locking bolt.
Would that crap from the hoses in the expansion chamber also potentially be gumming up the radiator? I know my hoses are bulged (lol) and have been putting off installing new hoses
I wouldn't imagine so Jeff , its more a gradual deterioration over time thing, when you get round to doing it run your finger up the inside of one of the old hoses , it kind of comes away like dead skin,(sorry i know thats gross but it does).
I was hoping it would be good for that!
Thankfully I think I've got that nut done up tight enough now.
Hopefully I don't have to undo it again! =S
The new and old of one of the hoses I replaced. They were all "bulgy", but this one was the easiest to see in a photo.
Notice how much wider it gets at the ends past where the clips held it onto the pipes....
It lives ...https://photos.app.goo.gl/Rk6P7dgMpmwT3XGs5
...I hope that link works!!
This morning I will be taking the top back off the airbox to balance the carbs, ...and find out where all the petrol is escaping from. It started dripping out of the airbox hose after a little while of running.
Nearly back to...
Fingers crossed it's going to run right now!!
The petrol could just be the o rings in the carbs ,( they tend to dry out then piss out fuel when restarted) they "usually" fatten up again and reseal but it may take a couple of start and run a bit cycles.
...while I had the airbox top off I didn't see any gas leaking out. Yay!!
The oil seems to be good now.
25 miles of riding and it seems to be behaving itself. The engine seems to sound smoother somehow, not sure how to describe it. Definitely better though
The odd thing is that when I first fired it up it was popping slightly while idling, now it doesn't pop AT ALL, not even on declaration. Oh well ...I wonder if the idling popping was related to the leaking gas?
...I didn't have time to put this in my previous post but I got carried away with "test ride" and completely forgot to put more gas in. I ran out yet again. Thankfully the light came on half a mile before I take ran out
What it work the gas sensor? The first time it came on (I was testing the tank range after I found out how the reserve worked) I rode 12 miles with it on. Since then I've had it come on three more times and only made 2.5, 0.5 and 0.0 miles and it ran out!
...I was spoilt on my Katana, it had a real, working fuel gauge!
Could the sensor be bad, or a damaged wire (bad connection)? Some kind of signals must be getting through, but it's obviously not working right anymore.
Thankfully I wasn't far from home, a nice 20 stroll each way to get a can of gas and I was good...
The low fuel light rule is that your actually on reserve when the light "Stays" on, with these bikes it'll come on then go off again,( it might or might not reset trip) then do this once/twice - it sounds and is a bit of a PIA but you do get used to it so don't worry, besides you spilt all your fuel fixing your carbs so technically it doesn't count.
Oh. Mine hasn't gone on and off at all. The first time it worked well, but now it only comes on just before I run out of petrol, ...if I'm lucky.
I just got back from 70 miles of blasting round the dirt/sand/gravel roads in the local mountains. Man I missed riding that bike. What a blast!
Good man, feeling the grin from here.
Since the fork seal leaked oil on one of the rotors (brake disks), the front brakes grabbed at a certain point which was fine at speed, but when make slow braking maneuvers at stop signs etc, was a little tricky. I also recently realised that the rear brake wasn't doing much anymore, the pedal went way down, but the was next to no braking effect.
I ordered the cheapest rotors I could find for the front ($86 for a pair of Tardans), and some Galfer pads for the back (I already had new pads for the front waiting to go in).
The new pads on the back made no difference, even though I flushed the brake fluid.
Yesterday I removed the rear brake fluid container from the frame and wired it up to allow any air to rise up, then pumped the brakes for a while. That did it. I also noticed that there was some little bits of crap in the brake fluid I had flush previously (it was still in the vacuum collection pot). I take it that is a sign of deteriorating hoses again? ...like the coolant hoses? Looks like I'll be getting new brake hoses in the spring.
Then I put the new rotors and pads on the front. The new rotors are only 4mm thick, the old ones are thicker! ...but they work ...for now. We'll see how they last. I may try sanding the old ones and see if I can get them cleaned to where they don't grab anymore; then I can switch back if these new ones turn out to be crap.
...they look kind of cool though, and that's obviously very important.
I keep forgetting to get a video of my oil pressure gauge in action! It's perfect on the top of the dashboard above the speedo display; fit's in perfectly next to the phone holder.
I fill up every 120-140 miles fearing the low fuel light might lie to me. I have had it come on after riding more miles and panic till I get fuel.
That's where I'm at now.
I ordered a new thermistor from china for $2, I found a link to tutorial on changing it in another forum thread that someone linked to. Going to give that a go before I spend $60 in a whole new one.
...then I'll drive around with a can of gas strapped to my top box and see what happens =D
On another note, looks like I need a new clutch slave now. It keeps running out of hydraulic oil. I filled it up when I put the engine back in and it ran out for my 27 mile ride home on Wednesday. I was fine apart from one red light that I had to stop at. I ended up stalling the engine trying to get back into gear without the clutch, then starting the engine while in gear without clutch. Not a great thing for the starter, I'm sure, but it got me home. =S I'm researching the most economic option for fixing it. One guy got a used newer model cylinder, and a new metal backing part. I expect that's the option i'll end up taking.
I also noticed that my outer clutch cover has a crack in it. I don't know when that could have happened but it definitely hasn't always been there. I hoped it would be ok, but it's leaking a small amount of oil, and making a mess there. There goes another $60! =(
At least my new cheap brake disks (rotors) are holding up ok so far. =) ...although now my speedo goes crazy sometimes, and starts jumping around when I'm doing a constant speed. I didn't see it do it yesterday though, so fingers crossed it sorted itself out. =O
I'm hoping that I can ride out the rest of this season, the roads will be getting icy soon; it was right around freezing outside when I left home Wednesday morning! ...heated grips are amazing!!. I'm also hoping next year will be problem free, just fun riding and normal maintenance. =D
I finally did it!!
Here is a video of the oil pressure gauge in action: https://photos.app.goo.gl/oYN6LhdAXwVq2Sv36