All the oil came out the bottom drain plug!!

Discussion in 'Dakar champion (950/990)' started by TheLimeyID, Jul 9, 2019.

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  1. TheLimeyID

    TheLimeyID Off road n00b

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    Woo, thank-you! Let me know what I owe you! The new oil check valve should be here soon as well. The parts recommended to upgrade by everyone here, should be here by the end of the week.

    I remembered something I forgot to mention earlier. I cleaned the magnet in the drain plugs when I changed the oil, and they have a surprising (to me at least, it may be normal) amount of metal caught on them again for how little riding I did in that time.
  2. DirtyADV

    DirtyADV Long timer

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    Going that route would give you alot less downtime. And still possible to tinker with the old engine and if nothing really expensive needs to be replaced it can be put back together as backup or sell if all seems well with the replacement engine.

    /Johan
  3. TheLimeyID

    TheLimeyID Off road n00b

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    That's a good point! I have no idea how I would find a used engine in this area though. =S
  4. TheLimeyID

    TheLimeyID Off road n00b

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    Eek!! New engines appear to run over $1000. ...I'm going to stick with plan A for now; a new engine may result in divorce. :hack
  5. DirtyADV

    DirtyADV Long timer

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    Looked up prices on just the gaskets you will want to replace?

    And then there are just because im in here costs.

    You will quickly spend more then a grand on the engine. I know I would.

    /Johan
  6. zimtim

    zimtim Been here awhile

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    The Big end on my old engine went sending shrapnel through the engine.
    I looked into doing a rebuild but with new bearings, gaskets, oil jets etc the cost in parts alone soon rose to over £600 . That is without the cleaning, my labour/ time costs and any other hidden little costs like new tools, oil lines, getting all parts cleaned professionally.

    So for the time being I picked up a used SMT motor for £500 delivered yes a bit of an unknown entity but I went through it on the bench and double checked everything, valve clearance, clutch oil booster, WP . Before I installed it in bike.
    Like you I was paranoid about new engine did I buy a dud etc etc.
    Did several oil changes as even though I had cleaned everything I still had some shrapnel coming through could only think that there was some left in old oil lines and oil tank.
    Took several months and several oil changes to finally get it all clear
    I now have a pretty decent engine back in the bike.
    My project for this winter will be to slowly rebuild the old engine making sure that every step is done to a high standard.
    Once that is done it will go back in the bike and I will resell the engine I bought for easily what I paid.

    Doing it this way whilst can seem expensive means that I had very little down time with no bike.
  7. TheLimeyID

    TheLimeyID Off road n00b

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  8. TheLimeyID

    TheLimeyID Off road n00b

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    Yes, I may end up doing that. It's a tough spot to be in. =S
  9. nk14zp

    nk14zp Long timer

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    Find a wrecked 1290 for a donor.
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  10. TheLimeyID

    TheLimeyID Off road n00b

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    Hmm, maybe I could facilitate that by running the next one see off the road. :rofl
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  11. TheLimeyID

    TheLimeyID Off road n00b

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    While I was removing the engine I notice a couple of odd things.

    There was no rubber "cap" on the brass fitting I'm pointing to; the one on the other side has a hose that seemingly used to go to EEC/SAS stuff, but now just attaches to a blanking "pin" on the back of the airbox bottom, and the rear ones both have rubber caps on that are ready to fall apart. What effect would those not being airtight have?
    20190728_135858.jpg

    Secondly, these hoses off the carbs (that I'm pointing to with my thumb and finger) just exit the side and bottom of the airbox where they end, they aren't blocked off. Is that correct? From what I understand they were part of the EEC/SAS system as well.
    20190728_131931.jpg
    ...then there are the two holes in the bottom of the airbox that someone did a piss-poor job of sealing and are hence no longer sealed, ...the plugs they used were bouncing around in the bottom of the airbox. :doh
  12. Boatman

    Boatman Membership has it's privileges ;-) Supporter

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    The intake vacuum port not plugged. Would give a lean condition on that carb. Synching the carbs would be nearly impossible. Would affect idle mostly. but with that said. Looks like it was sucking in grit.

    The carb vents are not supposed to be plugged.
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  13. TheLimeyID

    TheLimeyID Off road n00b

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    Wow, that was fast! I just tried shining a light into that port and it isn't blocked. ...maybe it was, and the clean of the engine I did yesterday cleared it, but I don't think so. I will be getting some new caps for those. I wonder if that explains the hit and miss ease of starting from cold? =S I'm sure sucking grit and extra air into the cylinder was just great! :baldy

    Excellent, I wasn't sure about those vents. =)
  14. nk14zp

    nk14zp Long timer

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    Any updates? If you search there is a thread about noisy timing chains. I think you should read that and get the longer nuts while you have it apart.
  15. TheLimeyID

    TheLimeyID Off road n00b

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    I got the engine cleaned on Wednesday, so I'm ready to start dissecting it. However, my damned clients keep needing me to fix their computer problems, and I haven't had a chance to get it opened up. :(

    We're away going away for the night tomorrow, but I'm hoping to at least get the clutch removed tomorrow morning, then get back into it Sunday afternoon. :1drink
    Ah, I'll take a look for that when I get some time later this evening. Thanks for the ideas! =)
  16. nk14zp

    nk14zp Long timer

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  17. TheLimeyID

    TheLimeyID Off road n00b

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    Thank-you! I read through two interesting threads about cam-chain noise, but neither mentioned bolts. The one I just finished seemed to conclude (by Charly) that the K&N oil filter had been too restrictive. Maybe mine was partially clogged, although running 10W40 at the time would surely negate that!? =S

    I just read that other post. They seem to be leaning toward new cam-chain tensioners, over the longer bolts. I'll measure mine to see if they are an issue.

    ...I'm confused now though... I thought that hole, where the cam-chain tensioner apparently goes, was where you put the oil gauge adapter!? =O
  18. DirtyADV

    DirtyADV Long timer

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    You are correct.

    Either by drilling and taping oem plug not sure how easy things are to tighten up then.

    I have always bought the oem adaptor to hook up oil pressure gauge.

    /Johan
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  19. DirtyADV

    DirtyADV Long timer

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    More of a magnetic paste? Very fine material there is normally some on the magnet.

    One or 2 long thin "sticks" is not uncommon either. Been told such are chipped of the sprockets in the gear box by better mechanics then me.

    And a magnet can only hold so much material so if to much metal was in the oil from the bolt failure some of that might have been caught next oil change.

    /Johan
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  20. Zuber

    Zuber Zoob Supporter

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    The carb vents are important. Put an 11" tube on the front, 10" on the back. Run them through the bottom of the airbox, out and down between the cylinders, tuck them out of the air stream.
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