Amsoil vs. Mobil 1

Discussion in 'GS Boxers' started by izzy's, Jul 4, 2010.

  1. izzy's

    izzy's Been here awhile

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    For a long time I was using Amsoil in my 04 1150 GS. I'm from Arkansas, was on my way home from CA, needed to ad a few of oz. of oil so I stopped at a parts place in Cortez, CO. They did not carry Amsoil but the guy said Mobil 1 was just as good, easier to find and a little less expensive. It was Mobil 1 or nothing so thats what went in. That was a couple of years ago and I've been using it ever since with no problems.
    This weekend I was talking to a guy at a cycle shop (who sells Amsoil) that said they are not equal in quality and folks using the Amsoil say their engine is quieter.
    The last Amsoil I bought was about $12 per qt. and the Mobile 1 is at WalMart in the 5 qt size for $21 ($4.20 per qt).
    Any expert opinions out there????
    Izzy
    #1
  2. vintagerider

    vintagerider Long timer

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    http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/cms/


    Edit to add Amsoil White paper link:
    http://www.amsoil.com/lit/g2156.pdf

    Independent testing was done using standardized SAE test mothods. . The white paper, published by Amsoil, reveals that there are three top notch olis for air cooled motorcylce use. They are: 1. BMW full syn, 2. Amsoil full syn and, 3. Mobile One V twin. Each oil excels in its own way. A particular rider may find that one oil is better suited to his particular machine and type of riding. Use on dusty roads or making a lot short local rides will result in loading up of the oil with contaminants. When loading is more of a factor than thermal breakdown, then the oil change frequency goes up. There is no single correct oil brand, type or change frequency which is ideal for every rider or every polar bear. What we do know is that the boxer can get by on any API SF rated oil which is of the correct viscosity grade. Where loading from contamination is the driving issue, rather than thermal breakdown, I would choose to spend less and run API CC CD conventional fleet oil purchased by the gallon.

    As for the guy who put castor bean oil in his engine and it turned to quick-crete, I'd say that is convincing enough for me to stay away from all bean and baby oils.

    In mid summer heat over 100 F I like the extra oil pressure I get from Mo V Twin. MC engine re-builders like it too. Rest of the year its the cheaper red cap Mo 15-50 $4 qt for me. No second thoughts about using conventional mineral oils either. As one popular West Coast dealer puts it: "Its (mostly) all about the ride while drowning as few bears is possible ."

    Motoclysmo wrote: ["By the way, I have always change to full synthetic at the 600 mile initial oil change"]
    It may be best to follow the BMW's advice and not ad synthetic in the engine that soon. A lighter oill of conventional type is better suited to seat the rings and that can take a lot longer than 600 miles in a beemer.

    Funhoues: "Use what's commonly available on the routes of your longest rides....] IMO just top off with any oil of the correct grade. Once you break in your engine properly, by running the piss out of it the first 10 thou miles on conventional, then you will begin to get 3K to 4 k miles per quart or better. Just carry a 16 0unce container with your fav oil if you are picky. Small MSR bottles are great for that.
    #2
  3. tslewisz

    tslewisz Long timer

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    To an engine, the most important thing is that it has oil. The second most important thing is that it's changed periodically...as in according to OEM specs.

    Everything else is just jacking off, i.e., whatever makes you feel good.
    #3
    imjustin and ChrisFZ1 like this.
  4. texzen

    texzen BMW Engineer

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    #4
  5. zoomdude57

    zoomdude57 Been here awhile

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    I have been using Mobile 1 V-Twin 20/50 for a couple years with very good results; particularly with oil consumption. Previously used BMW's 20/50 and Motorex and always used approximately 1/2 liter between oil changes. Pretty much zero consumption with the Mobile 1. Not scientific results, but my experience to date.
    #5
  6. (none)

    (none) poser

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    #6
  7. MOTOCYCLISMO

    MOTOCYCLISMO Adventurer

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    Before his death many years back,I had a friend who worked for Chevron. Among his many endeavors with that company he monitored oil degradation in NY and Chicago cabs, the result of which formed his opinion that even moderate change frequencies ( 5000 miles in cabs), using average OTC oils of any brand will insure engine reliability even in severe use. That said, Harry had a special formulation made by Chevron for some of the anointed employees that he used in all his vehicles. Since I was a big fan of synthetics based on their superior heat and metal oil adhesion, I asked my friend his opinion of Red Line oils ( my choice then). His reply was, since Chevron Corp. Did most of the API/SAE oil testing for nearly all the petro-chem companies at that time, and Red Line would never submit samples, he didn't trust them. So, I said what would you use if you wanted to go with a synthetic? His endorsment was Mobile 1 ! I've used it exclusively since. I'v owned 63 bikes and have 6 in the stable now, 2 of which are Beemers ( 07 GSA, 10 R1200RT). By the way, I have always change to full synthetic at the 600 mile initial oil change and have never had any oil consumption problem with any brand bike. I use Mobile 1 20/50 motorcycle specific oil in the Beemers due to the superior additive package compared to their automotive line.
    #7
  8. funhouse

    funhouse Overdue

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    Use what's commonly available on the routes of your longest rides....over your oil change interval, say 3000 miles.....otherwise you have to carry the oil with you...PITA.......I use BMW sludge 'cause I know every dealer down the road has it.....B
    #8
  9. texzen

    texzen BMW Engineer

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    #9
  10. CATGS

    CATGS Bourbon consumer

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    Either oil you can't go wrong. Pretty much splitting hairs. Many have gone 100k on dino with no issues. Personally, I use a good synthetic in all my motos and autos. It is all what you are willing to spend for piece of mind.. For reference my oils used below in my vehicles.

    Mobil 1 V-Twin 20w50 - 2003 Ducati ST4s ABS
    Mobil 1 15w50 (extended performance or regular) - 2008 BMW 1200GSA
    Mobil 1 15w50 (extended performance or regular) - 2005 BMW 1150GSA
    Golden Spectro SX4 15w50 or Platinum 10w50 - 2007 KTM 640 ADV
    Mobil 1 5w20 (extended performance) - 2008 Toyota Tundra
    Castrol 0w30 Syntec (German Castrol) - 2009 BMW 135i
    #10
  11. tagesk

    tagesk Tuscan rider

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    Every engine is based on some assumption about the oil.
    When the manufacturer advices that you change every 10.000 km, say, it is based on some assumption about the oil.
    Having better (higher quality) oil than the engine has been designed for, that feels nice.
    It is very doubtful if it influence the engine as much as it influences your feelings.

    There are only three things to remember:
    0) Never use oil with poorer quality than the engine has been designed for;
    1) Never be creative with the viscosity;
    2) Change as advised by the manufacturer.

    All the details you will ever need about these three issues can be found in the GSpot FAQ.
    I will be so bold as to say that the rest is snake oil (no pun intended).

    [TaSK]
    #11
  12. Cumminsman76

    Cumminsman76 befuddled

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    Unless they are providing oil changes then they double it.
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  13. Gizmo

    Gizmo Hermes

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    +1. Too many obsess over "the best oil". The reality is the technology these days is there really is not a "bad oil" The motors could give a rats ass what oil is used, as long as it meets the specs it was designed for. Amsoil and Mobil 1 have long been identified as being quality oils. Your dilemma illustrate the one problem with Amsoil and that is availability. Mobil 1 has the advantage of being readily available and less $ to boot.
    #13
  14. izzy's

    izzy's Been here awhile

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    Mobil 1 and I will continue to be the best riding buddies.
    Izzy
    #14
  15. HelmetHead Cycle

    HelmetHead Cycle Been here awhile

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    I have always heard that Amsoil was an Amway product, hence the name and the multi-level marketing. Not that there is anything wrong with network marketing, but come on...is it really that necessary for so much mark up? I guess if commissions are trickled down in someone's downline...everybody gets a piece of the profit.
    #15
  16. TruSound

    TruSound Been here awhile

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    This is my experience with Amsoil...

    Running Amsoil 20/50 full synthetic in my 08 HD Road King Classic produced pretty severe top end valve train clanking, can't really explain why this was happening, it didn't make any noise during break-in running whatever the dealer used and as soon as I switched out the Amsoil for Motul 7100 full synthetic the tappet noise stopped. I would definitely run the Mobil 1 20/50 designed for twins before the Amsoil, besides, the Amsoil is a pain in the ass to get.
    #16
  17. izzy's

    izzy's Been here awhile

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    Never thought about it but the marketing and pricing of Amsoil does resemble Amway. Like you, I think there is nothing wrong with it if true but I'm not paying almost 3X the price just so several levels can make some money. Besides I've owned WalMart stock for years so I'll spend my money there now that the inmates have convinced me that Mobil 1 is a quality product.
    Thanks, Izzy
    #17
  18. larry0071

    larry0071 Been here awhile

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    If your an Amsoil prefered customer the cost is similar to any other class 3/4 synthetic, or less. If your a once a year retail purchaser it is more.

    AMSOIL MCFQT-EA 10W-40 Advanced Synthetic Motorcycle Oil is $10.35 per qt retail
    The same product as a prefered customer: $8.00 per qt.
    Purchased in gallon containers is $7.85 per qt.

    Amazon Royal Purple 01314 Synthetic Max-Cycle 10W30 Motorcycle Oil - 1 Quart $12.53

    Jegs.com 42404 - Red Line High Performance Motorcycle Oil $11.99 per qt

    Advance Auto Parts Mobil1 Racing 4T 10W-40 4-Cycle Motorcycle Oil (1 qt.) $9.99 per qt.

    I see Amsoil as the cheapest of the options especially if you are a prefered customer and buy for the car/truck/tractor/motorcycle and whatnot.

    As far as the AMWAY thing, I have never heard of a relationship. I guess it could be, I never asked/was told about one if it is a fact.
    #18
  19. larry0071

    larry0071 Been here awhile

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    From the Amsoil archive about being compared to AMWAY:

    #19
  20. eakins

    eakins Butler Maps

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    get some perspective as your friend's viewpoint is tainted:

    Chevron was also the company that first hydro-cracked (a processing technique, basicly additional refining) regular conventional oil base stocks and then called them type 3 synthetic oils (that could be sold cheaper). mobil 1 sued stating chevron was misleading the consumer in thinking chevron's type 3 was as good as mobil 1 type 4 (poa) true synthetic oils. i guess chevron had better lawyers as they lost and forced mobil 1 use lower grade type 3 oils to compete w/ chevron. chevron caused the synth industry as a whole to produce inferior product.

    amsoil primarily uses type 4 (poa) base stocks where as redline oil uses only top shelf type 5 (ester) based stocks. there is a reason redline oil is the most expensive! you get what you pay for.

    i'm sure the execs at redline said the hell if we are submitting to chevron for testing signing the releases, oil composition disclosure forms and all. given the chance, chevron would probably rip off redline's formula or purposely make redline oil look bad. as chevron is all about bottom line profit, not producing the very best oil for the consummer. redline oil has NO love for chevron nor would i if i worked at redline & produced the very finest synthetic oil while chevron tried their best to undermine all of that work.

    i run redline in everything and have tried all the other oils. in my dr for example redline shift much better and is quiter than amsoil, mobil 1 & chevron products.

    to me the bike's engine are the most critical & expensive part of the bike and i'm willing to spend another $10-20 to put in the top shelf stuff. if anyone owns a $15-20k (w/ a $5k engine?) bmw and cheap out on the extra $20 for the good oil, your logic is screwed

    i'll use amsoil or mobil 1 in a pinch, but planned changes are always redline.

    royal purple always struck me as snake oil. the most expensive oil and yet little to no info on their basestocks or additives. you only get marketing fluff from their website. my guess is they are using type 4 basestocks. if they are using the most expsnive type 5 esters they would proudly say that.

    #20