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Amsoil vs. Mobil 1

Discussion in 'GS Boxers' started by izzy's, Jul 4, 2010.

  1. eakins

    eakins Butler Maps

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    motul 7100 is a ester type 5 oil vrs type 4 w/ amsoil that's why.
    there are a few other mfg using esters in some products and motul in the 7100 line is one. some of maxima's oils are. if a mfg is using ester they're telling ya! if there is no mention it's not in there.


    #21
  2. xplorador

    xplorador ibTrippin

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    I think you'll find that Chevron Purchased the technology from PetroCanada (I sell both Brands).
    #22
  3. Schlug

    Schlug JockeyfullofBourbon

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    put something on and stay in that position.




    JIF is in NO way like Skippy. The only possible similarity is they both take peanuts and crush them into butter and both make crunchy and smooth varities, but the similarities stop there. :rofl

    hey look! an oil thread!

    hey did you know Hitler got a GS after his VFR was totalled?
    #23
  4. Litre

    Litre AKA JimiChanga

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    Doesn't the Mobil 1 V-Twin oil have additives for wet-clutches? I could be way off, but I thought I read that somewhere. Not sure if it even makes a difference or not.
    #24
  5. CATGS

    CATGS Bourbon consumer

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    Yes, it is JASO MA rated oil. Doesn't make a difference for our dry clutch BMW's.
    #25
  6. scooteraug02

    scooteraug02 Dog Rancher

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    Hmmm, I was reading that the BMW M5 uses 10w60 and thought maybe it would protect my GS better.

    A friend and I became dealers for an oil that starts with A. It cost $50 and we had to take a test. All we knew about the oil was what we read. He sold some to a friend who did the extended oil changes and tested his oil at the suggested interval. The test said the additive package was no longer effective at the half way point of his extended interval. I never trusted the stuff after that.

    When you read the literature you think your vehicle will be as quiet as a magic carpet, last for ever, go faster and double it's gas mileage.

    I told my friend he should save his money and use Walmart's cheapest oil because he never keeps anything longer than a year or two.

    I use Mobil 1 Red Cap.
    #26
  7. larry0071

    larry0071 Been here awhile

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    I've flat out 100% told folks that like to trade cars in every few years that buying any premium oil at all is the same as using money to wipe your ass. No car made will have an oil related failure in 2-3 years while running any basic/cheap shelf oil that is changed at the OEM intervals.

    I'll go even further.... My father in law is an auctioneer and hauls furniture and whatever when he buys estates. He uses Ford/Chevy 1-ton box trucks with small block V-8 engines. His one Ford 351 from the late 80's never got an oil or filter change, only oil top off's when the dash light would come on. Honestly, I couldn't make this shit up! He got over 130,000 miles of hard and heavy hauling before the engine shit the bed. My father in laws comment..... "well, all the money and time I saved on oil changes pays for the new engine!". He is the type of guy that MIGHT do an oil change on a truck every couple years if he thinks about and is slow and the sun and moon align. He is just not a big believer in oil changes after his 35 years of not changing oil and seeing his trucks last 100,000+ miles.

    So back to the point... if your not a long term keeper and have plans for high miles on an engine.... anything better than pissing in the engine will likely be just fine.
    #27
  8. HelmetHead Cycle

    HelmetHead Cycle Been here awhile

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    100,000+ miles is not a very long engine life. Imagine how many miles he would have gotten had he changed his oil regularly.
    #28
  9. larry0071

    larry0071 Been here awhile

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    I have another (contrasting) buddy that owns Jeff Meyers Mobile Tire Service in Rochester PA ( http://www.meyersmobiletires.com/ ), he runs Chevy 1 ton box trucks. He does service on them constantly, follows the severe service interval and his box trucks (contain tire changer, compressor, ballancer, tools) never make 200,000 miles before an engine change. And to boot, the Meyers Mobile tire trucks don't haul near the weight my father in law hauls. So I consider that Meyers averages about 160,000 to 180,000 per engine and my father in law averages about 120,000-140,000 per engine hauling much heavier and with no oil changes.

    Argue it any way you like, it is what it is.
    #29
  10. bigdave-gs

    bigdave-gs Been riding longer than a lot have been alive !

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    Mobil 1 4T is forulated for wet clutches, because the straight Mobil 1 will allow a wet clutch to slip under full power. The BMW R bikes have a dry clutch so there is no need to buy the more expensive 4T oil. I think any synthetic oil is better than dino oil. Buy which ever one makes you happy, make sure you use a top quality filter, stick with a good maintance program:deal and you will get a lot of miles out of your bike.
    #30
  11. crea58

    crea58 Adventurer

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    The Group V category is very broad and anything that does not fall into the group I-IV group goes in group V. It does not necessarily mean top shelf. Usually the synthetic addtives fall into the group V category. Just because Amsoil or any others use group IV does not make it less of an oil than a group V for most uses. Red Line is good but expensive.

    quote
    amsoil primarily uses type 4 (poa) base stocks where as redline oil uses only top shelf type 5 (ester) based stocks. there is a reason redline oil is the most expensive! you get what you pay for.
    #31
  12. Mituk

    Mituk Been here awhile Supporter

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    For a question like this, I think the best thing is to educate yourself about exactly what all these different oils do, what the specific differences are and which of them are important to you.
    Here's a site that does a pretty good job of defining many of the basic issues/characteristics of the different base stocks available in the various oils.

    http://www.calsci.com/motorcycleinfo/Consumables.html#Oil

    After going through that site, and doing much more research, I decided that running Mobil 1 15-50 with a Purolator Pure One filter in my bike was the way I wanted to go. I feel the Mobil 1 is a reasonably priced, excellent product that gives me the viscosity protection I want in an air/oil cooled motor. I also decided that I didn't need to run synthetic in my car anymore -- I really didn't need the added characteristics of the more expensive oil, and running a good quality regular oil with a good filter(Purolator, same as above), and changing it at 3000 mile intervals would give my Nissan great protection.

    There are some differences in some of the base stocks that make certain oils better for some applications -- for example the refining process used for the base stock in Redline oils makes it outstanding for high temperature use -- it maintains it's viscosity and doesn't break down like other oils. Do I need to spring for that much protection for my bike? I don't think so -- others feel better when they do -- can't fault that - Redline is a great oil, probably the best one out there. I just don't think I need to go quite that far.

    Learn the differences, educate yourself, make the decision -- that way YOU know why you are choosing what you do, not just because a bunch of guys on some nuthouse forum said so!

    Cheers
    Dave
    '96 1100 GS
    #32
  13. Schlug

    Schlug JockeyfullofBourbon

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    put something on and stay in that position.
    holy fuck you people have a lot of time.

    1. up until last week i worked in a test centre with 94 engine dynos running motors to death and using cold rooms and hot rooms to set parametres for the new engines. there are a couple oil guys and they don't say much worth noting except that synthetic oils do seem to hold up better under extreme heat. this has been said on this site by hundreds of people, some 'engineers' some shade-tree wrenches and some in-between. but that's enough for me. especially in an air-cooled bike, i'll always use synthetic oils.

    2. buy the best synthetic oil you can afford to change regularly.

    3. you've covered as much as you can. go ride and ride utterly without worry regarding your oil.

    i think this fellow has it right:

    #33
  14. crea58

    crea58 Adventurer

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    Funny I guess you had some spare time to read the post and reply!

    #34
  15. aernan

    aernan Been here awhile

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    I've done a lot of reading on oil technologies and had lots of discussions with all my friends. The thing about amsoil is

    1. It's a full synthetic just like mobile 1. So it won't break down and leave sludge. It also performs better at extreme temperature (hot or cold) because it's a synthetic.

    2. The actual amsoil advantage is an additive package they put into the base synthetic oil. The package is what makes it superb. The problem is the package is "volatile" and it will evaporate out of the oil after some time. This is why you see the oil level go down a bit.

    From what I have read the amsoil base oil plus the package is the best combination available.

    To speak about the mobile 1. It's a sensational base oil and good additive package. If you don't mind changing the oil at normal intervals the mobile 1 is definitely worth using but amsoil is still a little bit better.
    #35
  16. ultane

    ultane sqeezin the bag

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    Well,... That just about settles the oil question, once and for all...

    Welcome to ADVrider...






    I might be wrong, just ask my X...
    #36
  17. larry0071

    larry0071 Been here awhile

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    I use Amsoil in everything, have been since 1985. Good shit!
    #37
  18. larry0071

    larry0071 Been here awhile

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    Forgot to insert the link!

    This is a study that was done I think in 2009:
    http://www.amsoil.com/lit/g2156.pdf

    Also note that if you and your pals order together and split the cost for one of you to become a "Prefered customer" you pay the same as an Amsoil dealer, so your cost per quart drops by a couple bucks. It used to be that Amsoil was majorly more expensive than parts store/wall-mart oils, but as the dino oils have went up and up in $$, Amsoil has went up much slower... thus narrowing the gap considerably and making the premium product not appear to be priced out of the ball game. When Amsoil was $8 and regular oil was $1.39, it was a tough sale...... Things have changed.
    #38
  19. def

    def Ginger th wonder dog

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    Hank, where are you?

    Hank has over 450,000 miles on his boxer. IIRC, he has used Mobil1 15w-50 auto oil in his boxer from childhood.

    (Hank is likely now at or very near 500,000 on his oilhead so it not surprising that he has not posted here for awhile)

    Hank.....Oh Hank?
    #39
  20. AndyCap

    AndyCap Mineral Oil Anyone?

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    I don't claim to be a chemist or a world class mechanic. I just read motorcycle forums and ride the hell out of my bike.

    After reading this thread -> http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=640274

    I decided to go with Mobile 1 VT 20/50. The guy fried his bike, but it still runs, and the oil that came out of it tested fine, even after the melt down. That's good enough for me. I just make sure I change it regularly, and keep up on all of the other important maintenance items.
    #40