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Discussion in 'Airheads' started by Ras Thurlo, Jun 28, 2014.
That’s exactly what I did. Workers great. 1/4-20 (i know, should be metric)
What did y'all do for cable length on the handlebar controls? Mine are a couple inches short, with the new forks. I noticed the G/S and ST units are the same part number. Thought I could get away with ordering longer G/S ones but that doesn't seem to be true.
Edit: I keep seeing that you need to route the wires "correctly." Anyone have pics of that, because it looks like mine are routed the stock direction. They go behind the brace and straight over to the 2 connections. I don't really see any other route that's more direct that would allow more length. Don't have a good pic of my route but this is where I am on the build:
I am presently mounting 2 inch rocks risers with tomaselli handlebars on my r80st . It appears that all cables fit with the exception of the choke cable which is about 1/4 inch too short. I’m going to try to reroute the choke the choke cable but I won’t get to this for a couple of weeks because I am also replacing the steering head bearings which I have not yet ordered.The electrical cables on both sides of the handlebars have to be rerouted so that they do not pass through any part of the frame because they are not long enough to be “correctly” routed with the rocks risers installed. comfort trumps form. at least for an older guy like me.
some more limber than i can take it back to stock in twenty years.
FWIW, I used throttle cables and switch harnesses for the US R100RT with the high bars, and they fit fine. I converted to manual choke pulls on the carbs. Routing is still important, even with the longest cables from der Vaterland.
My choke, throttle and right side controls are all perfect and route cleanly. It's just the wires coming from the left controls that are way short.
Anyone have a photo of how their left control wires route, by chance? The DRZ setup really only raised my bars about an inch and pushed them back towards the tank maybe 1/2"
I don't have any good pics, I'll have to take the tank off to get a look but I believe I added some length to the harness.
I'll look for pictures, but I know I had to reroute both switch cluster cables behind the upper triple clamp instead of the original routing frontwards.
You can just see the left side controls cable in this pic.
I'm sure I have another picture after I prettied this all up. I'll keep looking.
wholly are you 7ft tall? those are some serious risers
Not using the OEM bar. ProTaper bar with a lot less rise. Turns out to be only about 10mm higher than the stock bar on the original triples.
Ergos are just right with my forearms almost parallel to the ground.
Where are y'all getting black fork boot clamps for the DRZ forks? Tried dying the stock ones with RIT dye and it just doesn't come out a good shade of black at all.
Left mine white/natural. Fine by me.
If you want to paint them, Krylon makes some spray paints called Fusion that stick to just about everything, including most plastics. I used some gloss white to paint my black Barkbusters and it has held up very well.
Anyone have a part number or specs on the spring folks are using? Can't seem to get ahold of Prutser to order some.
How much are you reducing the fork travel: 50mm or 75mm? that will change the free length and potentially change the spring rate as well. Plus your weight and weight of gear.
I have a G/S (so 75mm spacers/shorter travel), my weight 180lbs, 36L of gas plus my gear. I had Prutser supply shortened springs for that configuration. I'm pretty sure the rate was 0.50kg. I think his part number was 1709, SP-FO-1709 is on the invoice.
Have you emailed him directly? PM isn't as effective at reaching him.
Do you have his email handy?
i’ve been working on getting this front end swap done. fork legs were shortened to match a 3” (~76mm) lengthened swingarm and hyperpro shock that was made to use all the available travel for this particular swingarm.
the cycle works tool got the job done quickly and easily for changing the headset bearings, and used the old outer races to fully seat the new ones.
i had the triples on in no time, and had a crash course in headset bearing adjustment. much easier than i thought.
bas provided everything for the swap, and it has made it possible for me to do this without having to second-guess too much.
used an rm250 wheel laced up to a 21x1.60 excel rim with a 320mm disc, routed the front brake line yesterday, so when this thing runs again i’ll have to see how it feels with the stock master cylinder.
next on the list, wiring up the new speedometer and idiot lights, the part that daunts me the most.
big-time thanks to @Prutser, for putting in the hard work on these triples, all the accompanying adapters and hardware, and for building me a beefy shock to boot. i also appreciate you fielding my panicky questions when i think i’m going to mess all this nice stuff up!
I know when I had the over sized rotor on my DRZ (which is lighter than the G/S) the caliper wasn't up to the task..I would boil brake fluid pretty easily...
oh dang! i got one of the f650 brembo calipers off ebay for a good price a while so, so hopefully it will do ok.
I have Husky Strada, built by BMW with a lot BMW (650) sourced parts, with a set of DRZ sm forks. I used both the Brembo and Nissin caliper and both worked fine with no issues. Kept the Nissin and sold the Brembo. This is with a single 310 mm disk and the original master cylinder.
I finished an other fork conversion today.
Really nice clean looking bike.