SO the next stage was to head southwards across Mauritania from Nouhadibou to Nouakchott We had to head through the Parc National du Banc d'Arguin which meant more "formalities". I think I encountered less formality in the RN than on this trip but hey ho, we spent the day gathering permits and insurance, and tired by the whole experience we stayed a second night in our Nouhadibou campsite. BBQ'd camel, which we ate on the beach seems a poor reward for our efforts. We were also told that we needed a Guide for the next leg of our trip as the incoming tide often made the trip hazardous when it ran down the beach. We were sceptical of the need for a Guide and when Nigerian man, his BMW plus Frenchman and legendary Peugeot Ambulance turned up in the campsite, we were determined to go it alone, without the need for a guide. What could go wrong ?