I have far more questions then answers, but here are the few I have: Flying.moto, the stator on our bikes is a 3 phase Y configuration. I found my notes from tests a long time ago, no easy feat lol, 213 volts RMS was the open circuit voltage at 6,000 RPM, but 1ms averaged peaks were 394 volts. I did not test at higher RPM because It was my stator I was testing and I was concerned about going higher but most certainly that voltage will climb somewhat linear to increases in RPM. A few additional notes: I measured the temperature of engine oil in my sump after a hard ride on a hot day and it was 124 C which is another reason that thermal image way above makes no sense. Our thermostat isn't full open till about 100c and the oil is always going to be hotter then the coolant. I would suspect we are going to have to work with stator temperatures south of 140c at the very least. Also, my normal knowledge of induction wire is in air or pure oil. Our oil contains a lot of carbon and often also contains water. Combustion byproducts include water and engine oil may contain quite a bit of water, especially when it's cold and even more so if the bike makes regular short trips. This is to say nothing of bikes that are submerged in water which happens to mine occasionally. In an oil cooled transformer, the addition of just a little water really drives the insulation resistance down. I am very leery of greatly raising stator voltages under these conditions. Further, experience with other stators will only tell so much. A stator that say honda uses may be built to withstand voltage better then ours, or it may not. I simply do not know. JR, I can't see the crank being hotter then oil. Normally the oil runs hotter then the crank owing to heat absorbed from the head. Also I just can't see aluminum or even magnesium, whatever the cover is made out of, having that sharp of temperature differences. What I suspect we were seeing is a change in emissivity. Perhaps there was a sticker or flat painted graphic in the center and the surrounding area was shiny. In any case, that thermal image means nothing to me. In any case, I don't dispute and can absolutely confirm that a series voltage regulator will run the stator cooler any time demand is less then 100%. There are actually two common types of series regulators. "series resistive" and "series switching". Series resistive regulators would not allow the stator voltages to go nearly as high, would be less efficient at reducing stator loads, have huge heat sinks and double as a waffle iron. Series switching will be noisy as hell, run very cool, be efficient and allow stator voltages to go through the roof. What would be really nice is a hybrid voltage regulator. Actually I could design it and even get components, but I don't have any resources for a custom board and heat sink. A schematic would be better, but I have no apps for generating such on this computer. 2 zener circuits for precision reference voltages, say 14.18 volts and 14.22 volts. 1 op amp triggered by the lower voltage zener for driving 3 FET's through a 10 ohm resistor to ground. the higher reference zener driving an op amp to 3 more FET's that break the series. You would need a feedback circuit to compensate line voltage fluctuation to the zeners but these are simple, and since were going all out, 3 SCR's set up to avalanche at 15 volts as a redundant safety. I'd build it 6 wire so regulation was done by a sensing wire straight to the battery that carried no current to cancel out the annoying loss in voltage as load went up. Heck, for a few pennies more we could add a circuit to flash an LED green yellow or red for system voltage. Leave the avalanche diodes on load sensing so loss of the sensor wire wouldn't cook the bike. Perhaps $50 retail for the components less the custom board and heat sink and that assumes we used over spec'd components. The results would be that the stator was never completely disconnected from load, RMS would still go pretty high but insulation piercing spikes would be halved, yet the system would go into series regulation to run the stator cooler and improve fuel economy. I'd probably also get sued for violating someones patent unless someone else already thought of this so long ago that the patent is up which is likely :) P.S. Larger gauge wire will fit on the stator with the same number of turns but this isn't everything. The magnetic field is only close to or at saturation with max back EMF at redline. Increasing winding size will also up current nullifying some of the I*R heat reduction. In addition to that, I don't know how much additional current if any our stock regulators could handle. As to oil feed to the stator. I don't know that there is any though I would sure hope there is. The crank is charged so theres either a nozzle at the end of the crank inside the rotor, or there is not. Assuming there is a nozzle. perhaps varnish buildup is causing a reduction? If there is no oil nozzle directed on the stator, well I know why they are failing lol. I would shutter to add a nozzle if none currently exist. Drilling on the crank and tapping a finite oil supply is beyond my engineering skills and testicle size.