Antifreeze in '01 Adv.

Discussion in 'Thumpers' started by GT-STMC, Apr 12, 2005.

  1. GT-STMC

    GT-STMC Been here awhile

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    A couple weeks ago after idleing for 25 minutes or so the Radiator Pressure Relief Valve blew (sometimes refered to as a lower radiator hose) and I lost a lot (or all) of my coolant. Having only a bottle of Evian (spelled backwards "Naive" !) water with me I repaired the "valve", and pored the water in. I was two blocks south of no-where so the next morning I finished filling it with water.
    Now, what should I do? Would that hose blowing off (it must have vibrated off because I'd been watching the temp., and the Hot light never came on) drained all the coolant, and the water just thined the mixture, or do I probably have straight water in there now? How can I drain it all, and what type (is off the shelf automotive sufficient) and how much radiator fluid should I use ?
    #1
  2. DevDel

    DevDel Been here awhile

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    I'd flush it ( drain, fill, run, flush, repeat) with distilled water, available in gallon jugs at most Walgreens etc.You might have added some minerals with that bottled water that could cause build ups.

    Refill with a silicate free antifreeze like those avaiable from your local honda dealer. Stay away from auto stuff unless it says "silicate free".


    Dev
    #2
  3. GT-STMC

    GT-STMC Been here awhile

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    Thanks, is the mixture the same as with Auto's ? Generally 50 / 50 ?
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  4. markjenn

    markjenn Long timer

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    Yep, 50-50.

    One thing to watch for is that most silicate-free AF sold at auto parts stores is Dexcool chemistry. Personally, I don't have any issue with Dexcool "extended life" AF (e.g., Preston 5/150) but a lot of folks don't think it should be used in bikes. But if you use it, make sure you get a very good flush beforehand.

    A good absolutely safe choice is the Honda pre-mixed stuff sold at Honda dealers. You just pour it directly out of the bottle and into the radiator so you don't need to worry about the water.

    - Mark
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  5. Velocibiker

    Velocibiker Adventure Antagonist

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    Actually, unless it gets really cold where you are, you can reduce the amount of 'antifreeze' and use more water. Pure water is the best coolant, but will freeze. Using 100% water and some Water Wetter will keep you running cooler than water and antifreeze.

    Then of course there's Evans and Engine Ice....
    #5
  6. GT-STMC

    GT-STMC Been here awhile

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    I hadn't heard that. I always thought the Antifreeze was also a lubricant like for cars where you shouldn't run straight water.
    It only gets down to freezing maybe once every two or three years here, and then it's always back to the 60's (F) later that day. I was worried that runing straight water I was potentially hurting something.
    #6
  7. Mack

    Mack Gone, but never forgotten. RIP, Mack...

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    I'm a fan of zerex G-05, but anything that is stamped/meets Mercedes Benz specs, is going to be a good coolant for LC4 use. Personally I'd run 60/40 to 70/30, H2O to coolant, better cooling and it still offers corrosion protection and increased boilover temp.
    #7
  8. creeper

    creeper Still alive...

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    I run the 50/50 premix stuff intended for Harley V-Rods... Hey, it's orange. :wink:
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  9. GT-STMC

    GT-STMC Been here awhile

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    OK, bottom line. From the expert....., and can't argue with that!













    Creep....., you know I respect your opinion....., and so far have saved over $240. USD just because of your Oil Change thread. Let alone the knowledge that now it's being done right.
    #9
  10. creeper

    creeper Still alive...

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    That would be your first mistake. :evil
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  11. dagwood

    dagwood Banned

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    So... harley rebadges Prestone ? I use the Prestone silica free and it's Orange too.
    Now all I need is clear nalgene radiator hoses. :lol3
    #11
  12. creeper

    creeper Still alive...

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    :dunno... maybe. Source vendor is US, so could be.
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  13. GT-STMC

    GT-STMC Been here awhile

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    How do I drain all the water / coolant ? So that I'm sure I'm starting clean ?
    #13
  14. Drif10

    Drif10 Accredited Jackass

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    Quintessential Creeping. :lol3
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  15. creeper

    creeper Still alive...

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    I'll take that as a compliment?... :dunno
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  16. gybeman

    gybeman Been here awhile

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    Nobody asked why the H the thing was left idling for 25 mins. The clean air police could have had you arrested. I'd be more concerned about changing oil from gas contamination then antifreeze at this point.
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  17. Drif10

    Drif10 Accredited Jackass

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    You may take it any way you'd like. :D
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  18. GT-STMC

    GT-STMC Been here awhile

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    This time, trying to put up a tent in the dark.
    Also, I idle for normally 25 minutes or longer everyday. Just waiting in line to cross back from Mexico into the US.
    The idling probably isn't so much a problem as I've already removed the vent hose running through the cannister and just have a 1-way valve on the fuel cap. They should get me just for that.
    I changed the oil when I got back from my trip. 2,700. miles in 8 days. 587 miles one day alone (on an '01 Adventure). The trip report will be up soon.
    But still...., when I put antifreeze back in, how do I ensure I get all the old "coolant" out ? I know with cars just opening the valve at the bottom of the radiator just drains 1/2 the coolant capacity.
    #18
  19. dagwood

    dagwood Banned

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    just top it off with clear water and drain by taking the lowest hose off. repeat and start (Momentarily) so it spews out . then repeat. Fill with 50/50 mix of the above mentioned combinations.
    thats the only way I now of to completely flush it but as it really holds so little in the first place its not hard to do. I had to do it to go sm racing as they don't allow any coolant at all in the bike in case of spills. any color in the tank and they might have a Creeper fit. :rolleyes
    #19
  20. FBOMB

    FBOMB Long timer

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    Has anyone tried this stuff? Just looking for some opinions before
    I try this in my 01 LC4e 400.

    I found this antifreeze, FINAL CHARGE 50/50 at Walmart for $10.00
    a gallon. According to their WEBSITE, this AF is silicate free, as well
    as
    phosphate-free, borate-free, and nitrite-free.

    It also appears that it meets the following manufacturers specs.
    • CAT EC-1
    • Cummins 14603
    • Detroit Diesel
    • Mercedes DBL7700
    • MTU 5048
    • Navistar B1
    With FINAL CHARGE Coolant’s patented phosphate-free, borate-free, silicate-free
    and nitrite-free OAT formula, you don’t have to worry about these global inhibitor issues:

    PHOSPHATES are not used by European OEMs - contribute to cooling
    system blockage caused by hard water scale.

    Not a problem with FINAL CHARGE!

    BORATES are not used by Japanese OEMs due to
    aggression to aluminum engine components.

    Not a problem with FINAL CHARGE!


    SILICATES deplete in conventional coolants and are linked to water pump gasket
    failure and are most prone to dropout problems.

    Not a problem with FINAL CHARGE!

    NITRITES deplete in conventional coolants. Are being eliminated in Europe due
    to toxicity and eviromental concerns.

    Not a problem with FINAL CHARGE!




    Thanks,
    Jay

    #20