Any Honda Dominator NX650 owners out there ?

Discussion in 'Thumpers' started by KeithDommirider, Jul 31, 2007.

  1. Kolb Driver

    Kolb Driver Been here awhile

    Joined:
    Oct 21, 2016
    Oddometer:
    162
    Location:
    Kingsport, TN
    Yep, she is original except for the handlebars and totally unmolested.
    I am still dilligently reading through all the forum posts, but have not yet found what I am looking for, so bear with me on this inquiry please; I am only 5'9" tall and 73 years old, so I am not real comfortable being on my tip toes. I can still set a good pace, but nothing that is really all that challenging, so factor that into my questions....
    So here is my problem: I am unable to adjust the rear shock in place since the previous owners have spalled the adjustment rings to a horrendous degree - am planning to pull the rear shock tomorrow and (hopefully) on the workbench adjust it down as much as possible to lower the overall height and especially the seat height.
    (And the seat goes into the upholstery shop tomorrow to replace the stock foam with soft tempurfoam; cut lower and thinner)
    Since I also have an NX250, I will not be using the NX650 for any off road dirt riding, it will be a back roads only machine. (East Tennessee & North Carolina) So with the stock rear shock lowered as much as possible, and a set of Race Tech cartridge emulators in the front forks, (they did great on my FT500 Ascot!) what are your opinions on my plans for use in moderate back road riding with the stock rear shock lowered as much as possible and a front fork upgrade?
    And while I am asking; would going one tooth size bigger on the front sprocket reduce the engine vibration enough to matter?
    Thanks.
  2. scrambler66

    scrambler66 Been here awhile

    Joined:
    Oct 5, 2011
    Oddometer:
    673
    Location:
    Germany
    Depends on your weight and the mileage of the shock. With average weight and a not worn out shock it should be fine for moderate speed.
    As for the front sprocket - I guess it would bring a bit less vibrations at higher revs (meaning: on highways) but probably not on back roads. On the other hand, the 5th gear would be too long for most of time and you would have to do much more shifting.
  3. Bounder

    Bounder Typing...

    Joined:
    Mar 2, 2011
    Oddometer:
    1,990
    Location:
    West Cork, Ireland
    If you are lowering the rear shock you can also drop the forks through the triple clamp to lower the front at the same time.
    Griff2 likes this.
  4. Kolb Driver

    Kolb Driver Been here awhile

    Joined:
    Oct 21, 2016
    Oddometer:
    162
    Location:
    Kingsport, TN
    <Quote> I guess it would bring a bit less vibrations at higher revs (meaning: on highways) but probably not on back roads. On the other hand, the 5th gear would be too long for most of time and you would have to do much more shifting. <Quote>
    Yes. I am used to that; depending on the roads, the NX250 & the Ascot spend a lot of time in the middle gears, so I might try it and see, it is easy enough to go back to stock. Thanks.
  5. MartiniUp

    MartiniUp Long timer

    Joined:
    Jul 14, 2010
    Oddometer:
    3,347
    Location:
    TX
    Just be sure you get the correct sprocket that fits the splines as it should.
  6. Kolb Driver

    Kolb Driver Been here awhile

    Joined:
    Oct 21, 2016
    Oddometer:
    162
    Location:
    Kingsport, TN
    <Quote> Just be sure you get the correct sprocket that fits the splines as it should. <Quote>
    Roger that. But that part of the project is going to have to come later: right now I am working on getting the rear shock out.
    The adjuster is at about max preload, and over the years the adjustment rings have been beat on by previous owners so that they are peened together, so I need to take the shock out, Dremel off the smashed places, and then I can back off the preload. (Since this is now going to be an old mans street bike/fire road bike, it is not going to need much preload)
    Except you can't get the top shock bolt out unless you move the airbox, and you can't get the airbox out unless you remove the mufflers, and the mufflers are seized onto the header pipes.
    (Grumble, gripe, mutter...)
    It looks like if I have a helper, he can push the airbox out of the way enough so that the top shock bolt will clear it while I peck on it from the other side. Anybody else have any experience with this?
    Suggestions?
    P1070298 (Medium).jpeg
  7. Griff2

    Griff2 Griff

    Joined:
    Jul 17, 2010
    Oddometer:
    1,665
    Location:
    Wicklow Ireland
    Spray the joint with WD40 or some other penetrant and leave it overnight ?
    Bounder likes this.
  8. Kolb Driver

    Kolb Driver Been here awhile

    Joined:
    Oct 21, 2016
    Oddometer:
    162
    Location:
    Kingsport, TN
    Here's what's happened since the last post; took the shock out and discovered that the shock adjustment rings were already set as soft as possible. So cleaned up the burrs and put everything back, looked at some alternative shocks and then the light came on: make a new bolt hole through the two lower side flanges. Move the bolt up about 3/8" of an inch because Honda has left about a 5/8" gap in there. Will take the shock back out, weld up the stock holes and then drill and tap for a new hole as shown on the picture. Moving the bolt up 3/8" ought to translate to about 1.5" at the seat and keep the stock spring rate.

    But that's not as important at the moment as that the spark has gone away. Over a period of several days it got harder to start and then wouldn't idle, and now it has no spark, period. Have a shop manual coming, ought to be here next week, meanwhile I have checked the bike over for physical discontinuities, didn't find any. When the shop manual gets here I can check for specific readings.
    Meanwhile - Anything peculiar to the electrics on this model that I need to be looking for?

    Attached Files:

  9. Bounder

    Bounder Typing...

    Joined:
    Mar 2, 2011
    Oddometer:
    1,990
    Location:
    West Cork, Ireland
    Cdi failure is common on these now, try tapping the back of the Cdi unit with a screwdriver handle while trying to start. It may fire up. Usually it’s dry solder joints under the potting compound. New ones can be bought from IGNITECH .
  10. Kolb Driver

    Kolb Driver Been here awhile

    Joined:
    Oct 21, 2016
    Oddometer:
    162
    Location:
    Kingsport, TN
    You da man! I found the CDI box, thumped on it with a screwdriver, and I have spark! So now all I need to do is send money to somebody. Thanks!
  11. Bounder

    Bounder Typing...

    Joined:
    Mar 2, 2011
    Oddometer:
    1,990
    Location:
    West Cork, Ireland
    I think you have a few options, I used ignitech.cz and the Sparker DC-CDI but I am sure there are other options as well.
    The pinouts are specific to certain models, I had to send a pic of the plug sockets to the company to make sure they had the correct version.
    I think XR650L CDI's are different with a different wiring colour.
    kylkim likes this.
  12. Bell driver

    Bell driver Long timer

    Joined:
    Apr 21, 2010
    Oddometer:
    1,416
    Location:
    Germany, Nordish By Nature.
  13. oldbaster

    oldbaster n00b

    Joined:
    Aug 20, 2019
    Oddometer:
    1
    Location:
    LIthuania
    Hey guys,

    Have nx650 RD02, it already need some maintenance to do and thinking use xr650r carb on it as a small upgrade, anybody tried it already? Did it fit to standard manifold intake and airbox? was it going well with dual exhaust or need mono?

    Current carb already tired and would need rebuilt it, so thought it's good time to think about something new :) I know about mods with Mikuni carbs, but currently I am interest to standard xr650r Keihin..
  14. Bounder

    Bounder Typing...

    Joined:
    Mar 2, 2011
    Oddometer:
    1,990
    Location:
    West Cork, Ireland
    They aren't identical, the XR650L has a 6 wire connection like this: [​IMG]
    The NX650 has a 5 wire connection like this: NX650_1.JPG
    Griff2 likes this.
  15. MartiniUp

    MartiniUp Long timer

    Joined:
    Jul 14, 2010
    Oddometer:
    3,347
    Location:
    TX
    Same motor, why did Honda do that?
  16. Bounder

    Bounder Typing...

    Joined:
    Mar 2, 2011
    Oddometer:
    1,990
    Location:
    West Cork, Ireland
    Something to do with sidestand and clutch switch I think, also remember that this is a 1988 bike the first XRL was 92/93?
  17. Kolb Driver

    Kolb Driver Been here awhile

    Joined:
    Oct 21, 2016
    Oddometer:
    162
    Location:
    Kingsport, TN
    Replaced the fork oil (who knows what it was?) with Dexron III ATF today, when I get the new CDI in the mail later this week and it runs right again I'll give a report on how the forks behave with the new fluid.
    Bounder likes this.
  18. scrambler66

    scrambler66 Been here awhile

    Joined:
    Oct 5, 2011
    Oddometer:
    673
    Location:
    Germany
    Griff2 and Bounder like this.
  19. Citronodlaren

    Citronodlaren Adventurer

    Joined:
    May 24, 2018
    Oddometer:
    19
    Location:
    Sweden
    I have not followed this tread for a while, but just one thing about changing the front sprocket to get lower revs on the highway. Mine had one cog more than standard when i bought it. The fifth gear was terrible long. I changed it to the original and it is much better. If you want to use it on back roads you may even want one cog less instead but try it as standard first. I have a NX250 also and it is so much sweater with its six gears and much lower gearing on the lower gears, IMO.
  20. Kolb Driver

    Kolb Driver Been here awhile

    Joined:
    Oct 21, 2016
    Oddometer:
    162
    Location:
    Kingsport, TN
    Got a different rear shock on my NX650 now. Ordered a SV650 shock off ebay, originally fits a 99-02 model, as near as I could tell it has a slightly lesser spring loading. The eye to eye distance for the mounting bolts is identical at 13 7/16", but the tangs that attach at the lower end are a lot longer for the SV650 shock before you get to the bolt holes. So I took the shock apart so I wouldn't have to worry about screwing up the spring by heating it, wrapped the shaft and the body with a sopping wet rag, and welded the original holes up. Then ground them smooth & flat again. Then drilled new holes 1/2" higher up the tangs and cut off the extra length of tang that extended past the holes. Got them fitted this afternoon but all I could do was ride it around the yard - had a melanoma cut out of my scalp Monday so it will be another week-ten days before I can wear a helmet. Since I had also changed the front fork oil to Dexron ATF earlier this week, combined with the softer back shock my initial impression is that this is going to be perfect for an old guy with a 29" inseam. I can flat foot it at a stop with a slight bend in the knee.
    I also replaced the faulty CDI unit with a fairly inexpensive one from ebay, it starts very easily and idles great. Was able to set the idle adjustment to idle quite nice after riding it around the yard for ten minutes, I am extremely pleased with how it is doing. Here are some pictures of the shocks. You can see that the SV650 shock is now 1/2" shorter than the NX650 shock. Bolted in w/o any issues. I did get a longer lower bolt with a locking nut rather than tap & thread one side of the tang like the original. And if it turns out not to be good, I still have the stock shock unmolested. P1070314 (Large).jpeg P1070318 (Large).jpeg
    Bounder likes this.