Any Husqvarna Chain saw knowledge - Part 2!

Discussion in 'The Garage' started by blk-betty, Sep 8, 2019.

  1. blk-betty

    blk-betty bam-a-lam Supporter

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    Have a Husqvarna 445 saw that sits for extended periods of time without use and have not used ethanol free fuel.

    Put fresh gas in yesterday with new 50:1 oil and ran for about 1 hour while cutting large pine that fell after Dorian.

    Tried to start today to finish that pine but nothing, no start. Removed carb but didn't open carb up, replaced and now starts with choke on and smokes like a mosquito truck, as soon as choke is closed it revs up to about 3/4 full rpm without touching throttle and immediately dies when throttle is opened. Does this consistently not matter how long it idles with choke engaged and smokes all the time.

    Took carb off again and this time opened it up but didn't notice any tears in diaphrams, jets looked ok, buttoned back up and still runs as described. Tons of smoke with raw fuel from exhaust, revs without throttle and dies when throttle is engaged.

    Yesterday it ran perfectly.

    Suggestions?
    #1
  2. nickguzzi

    nickguzzi Long timer

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  3. ericm

    ericm Long timer

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    The first time you removed the carb the linkage was not assembled correctly. When you opened up the carb it got reassembled incorrectly or one of the delicate diaphrams was damaged. It's easy to do.

    The best thing for infrequently used saws is to drain the fuel and run the carb dry when you're done using them. Ethanol or not. E0 also goes stale and gums up carbs.
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  4. blk-betty

    blk-betty bam-a-lam Supporter

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    Certainly possible. What I can't figure out is why it ran so well yesterday and then nothing today.

    I think I got the linkage installed correctly, it seems to cycle fine normally with the choke activation and the throttle opening and closing like it should while not running, was very careful with the diaphrams and it runs the same before and after I disassembled the carb so incorrect linkage would seem to be a more likely explanation.
    #4
  5. Zoef zoef

    Zoef zoef Long timer

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    Could be sticking float, basically flooding chainsaw?
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  6. sieg

    sieg Wearing out tires......2 at a time, day after day. Supporter

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    We know it's not from setting because it ran fine the day before. Since it idles with the choke on, revs and dies when the choke is turned off. That tells us it's lean. That tells us that it's not getting enough fuel. That tells us there is a restriction in a fuel circuit......somewhere. We know the fuel is not restricted from the tank to the carb, because it runs with the choke on. So that tells us the restriction is in the carb. You need to take the carb off for the third time and this time actually clean out all the passages. Blow some air or WD40 through them. This will help more that just looking at it.
    #6
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  7. blk-betty

    blk-betty bam-a-lam Supporter

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    Sieg,

    Heading out the garage to pull the carb a third time. Would a lean condition cause it to smoke so much?

    Also, it will run when the choke is closed with no throttle input, it revs to about 3/4 max and smokes like hell but as soon as you touch the throttle it immediately dies...ie, choke it pull the cord, it fires up and smokes, close the choke it stays running but revs and smokes, touch the throttle trigger and it dies.
    #7
  8. Sattphalat

    Sattphalat n00b

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    Every time you open the carburetor it is recommended to changes the diaphragms.
    Possible it is the setting of the needles I the carburetor
    L - one turn out
    H- same ,one turn out.
    If there is a T also 1 turn out.
    Start with Tuntil it run nice .and the chain are just about to run.
    H- full speed. Falling a bit on top.
    Then back to L . Check until acceleration is ok.

    I use to work as a feller in the logging industri when I was young. But it is 20 year since I use a chainsaw . So take my advice for what it is.
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  9. sieg

    sieg Wearing out tires......2 at a time, day after day. Supporter

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    Well has the oil settled out of the fuel to where the pickup is in oil. That would be lean and smoky. Generally when something gains rpm with throttle close when turning the choke off, its lean. Opening the throttle and it kill it, is a sign it's too lean. Running better with the choke on than off is a sign it's lean.
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  10. blk-betty

    blk-betty bam-a-lam Supporter

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    Thanks for all the input. Carb off and on for the 3rd time and cleaned.

    Pretty much the same except this time it stalls after about 15 seconds before I touched the throttle and now chain spins on bar at idle which it wasn’t doing before the 3 carb r&r.

    So will try the carb settings next.

    Got a video but won’t let me upload it from phone.
    #10
  11. Boatman

    Boatman Membership has it's privileges ;-) Supporter

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    Stupid question maybe. Did you mix new fuel between when it ran good and bad? The reason I ask is you have nearly the identical symptoms I had a few years ago when inadvertently mixed diesel instead of gas.
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  12. MarylandStrom

    MarylandStrom Long timer

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    #12
  13. blk-betty

    blk-betty bam-a-lam Supporter

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    Thanks for the link.

    I ordered a carb rebuild kit and when it arrived it was not the correct one. I called the online retailer and he says there is no full rebuild kit, just the diaphrams and gaskets, all other parts are sold individually.

    I ordered the diaphrams and gaskets but they don't stock them so I wont have them for 7-10 days. I asked if the saw I have is not common and he said, yes it is, so why don't you stock the diaphrams, and he says most people just buy a whole new carb rather than rebuild.

    Had to order the tool to adjust the card. It arrived but no difference in how it runs with fine or large adjustments.

    Guy at parts shop said it sounded like it was getting too much fuel based on how much it smokes and it's spewing what looks like unburnt fuel out of the exhaust.

    Hoping the new diaphrams work, otherwise it's off to the shop.
    #13
  14. MarylandStrom

    MarylandStrom Long timer

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    The old guys on Arborist site know their stuff when it comes to troubleshooting saws. A lot of them rebuild saws on a regular basis. If you get stuck, ask them for help.

    Double check the crank seals. While the saw is running, spray carb cleaner towards each seal. If you get a surge in the engine, you have found a leaking crank seal.
    #14
  15. kantuckid

    kantuckid Long timer

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    Age of the saw?
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  16. blk-betty

    blk-betty bam-a-lam Supporter

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    3-4 years with less than 5 hours actual run time
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  17. kantuckid

    kantuckid Long timer

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    I'd do the carb kit but not typical of a diaphragm to go bad that fast either, it's such a thin piece of material it doesn't take much to compromise it? My tactic is to mix one gallon batches of ethanol based 2-cycle mix . The mix oil IS a fuel stabilizer. Since Stihl began extending their warranties if the engine gets their full syn mix oil I've done so. Seems to me there's more value there than them just selling more of the oil?
    Typical seasonal check items are mud daubers in the muffler hole/spark arrestor screen or any other orifice. The engine case seal in 5 years is doubtful but who knows. The fuel pick-up line usually stays OK that long too, even with ethanol.
    #17
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  18. lnewqban

    lnewqban Ninjetter

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    Sudden changes in behavior should not be caused by diaphragms.
    I would also check:
    1) Spark plug (particle of carbon between electrodes).
    2) Air filter (abnormal restriction).
    3) Tank vent.
    4) Fuel filters (at pick up end and mesh inside carburetor).
    5) Fuel tubes (invisible pinholes or cracks compromise the vacuum induced by the suction of the fuel pump / The carb is half carb and half pump that works with the pulsing vacuum of the crankcase).
    6) Water in tank (from rain, condensation or dew).

    In some cases, a new carburetor costs as much as a repair kit and less than a shop service.
    #18
  19. H96669

    H96669 A proud pragmatist.

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    Don't be afraid to adjust that L adjustment screw.And then on to the H.Screws may be factory plugged but only a matter of pulling the plugs then adjust?

    Pretty common saw the Rancher...I'd bet there is a how-to video somewhere.All saws now are pretty well set on the lean side from the factory.Not the best setting for engine life the lean side as the fuel does cool the engine.

    I have a Husky50 which is the predecessor of the 455.Got to be 25yrs old?Had to finally clean the carb last year but no new parts required.2-3(?)very tiny holes were getting plugged.Started right up after the cleaning but needed a tune but totally expected that 5 minutes tuning.

    And I started the B-I-L's Poulan POS a couple weeks ago.Left for 7yrs with only 2 hrs runtime with non-stabilized regular ethanol gas in the tank.Flushed the soupy smelly shit out,filled with fresh and started right up.But a POS Poulan and no adjustments on the carb,factory set to? Too lean.....!

    My big Stihl with 50hrs?Responded rather well to some umcorking and fine tuning.Did that and then put it back to work.3- 5gal buckets of premix later ,still runs like a top and compression is right up where it should be.
    #19
  20. ozmoses

    ozmoses . Supporter

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