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Discussion in 'Thumpers' started by klpegaso, Nov 1, 2006.
Could you repost this picture please?
I'll try to dig it up and repost. It's all working perfectly, as I did it then.
Sorry for the delay, I think this was the photo. Photobucket was holding that image hostage since it was linked here, and I couldn't even download it from there or see it. Bastards.
I have some others, including wiring diagrams showing the modification if you'd like them. It's still working perfectly, about 14 V going to the battery when the engine is running, regardless of RPM.
I have found the source of my issue with the imminent stalls. It was my ignition coil original Aprilia made by Sagem.
I changed at first my HY wire and the issue remained than I said OK let's change the ignition coil, once changed with a new one the bike is fine and no more stalls.
What I want to share with you guys is that in the Pegaso 650 I.E. as I have the ignition coil from Aprilia costs about 150euros, wich is obscene.
I have searched also on other forums and saw that a polish guy with the same issue, used a CITROEN C5 3.0i V6 ignition coil that has the same connections it is literally pulg and play on the connections, the shape is a bit different only, and it costs ONLY 25euro the ignition coil being DELPHI GN10240-12B1
I bought one and trimmed the plastic support that it had, being designed for PSA ( Peugeot Citroen ), with the plastic support trimmed of I was able to put the rubber shirt that was on the original Aprilia ignition coil, and it fitted right away.
I have started my bike waited to turn 80 degrees Celsius and see what happens, usually it should stall. The engine kept idling at 1600rpm-1750rpm perfectly even with all the lights on an electric fan working at 95-100 degrees Celsius.
What a saver, I saved at least 125euro by using the Citroen C5 3.0i V6 ignition coil, and it took me only 5minutes to trim the plastic support that it had. The same Delphi ingition coil works on the V2 1000cc Rotax from Aprilia.
Please check the pictures in order to understand better what I have done.
Now I am happy that my bike got the attention that it needed, now I have a new head gasket, HT wire and ignition coil and also new fork bearing using 15W oil.
I wish you happy Christmas and holidays gents! See you in 2018 with good vibes.!
Can anyone help me out?
Next to being just an opening for the air-flow, on the top is a place for a single screw holding a cable clamp.
All the best to you and your families in 2018!
Could you please share your experience on two questions:
1. What motor oil do you like the most for Pegaso 3? The last one I used was Motul 7100 10w60. But it seems to me that the motor is noisier on this oil and some gears sometimes (especially the second) are switched more difficult.
2. Airbox design. The last year I cleaned carbs and I know that i left plastic washer on the needle in such a position, so I carb ran very rich, what I believe caused the airbox melting (pics below). I repaired it, but somehow there is not a big enough gap anymore between the exhaust pipe and the airbox. I tried to reposition the pipes, to lift the airbox a bit, but for some reason the gap is not enough anyhow. So I think if it would be a good idea to cut a part of that airbox and re-weld so to assure at least 10 mm gap. or maybe there is the option to replace the airbox with the one of other design? What do you think?
Has anyone had similar problem and how fixed it?
Originally there was alum-type foil (heat shield) applied on the outside of the air-box near the exhaust pipe.
Two options you have: alum type heat shield material and exhaust wrap tape.
I am also missing the alu-foil shield but no damage to the airbox and the bike's been stuck in 40 deg C traffic a lot.
A question to those of you who have taken the rear fork out: I am having a bit of trouble re-installing the fork axle, or "pin" as the manual calls it. According to the manual, one's supposed to screw the axle/pin by hand all the way, then the opposite bush all the way until it seats plus 1/4 of turn, then torque the axle to 100Nm, then torque the lockring to 40Nm.
When I screw the axle/pin all the way, the opposite bush will not move, like it's already screwed all the way in. What am I doing wrong here?
Maybe I did not quite get the point, but if the bush does not move, you should in theory be unable to place the rear fork... This is how I understand the procedure, described in manual: Before placing the fork you screw in the bush into the frame in direction out of the bike center line in order to have space to place the fork. Then you place the fork, not forgetting to place two plastic washers :), insert the pin, screw it by hand (however it was not easy for me, so I used the wrench, but tried to do it like I would do by hand :) ) then you screw that bush towards the bike center, so it touches the fork, and then do 1/4 turn more in order to squeeze the fork a bit or eliminate possible gaps between the outer surfaces of the fork and bike frame. If you don’t do it, you start squeezing or bringing right and left parts of the frame together, making not needed tension in the frame, when torquing the pin. And only after 1/4 bush turn you tighten the pin and lock nut. Btw my manual says for both operations the torque is 100Nm.
Thanks for the reply.
The plastic things, yes. One is torn and broken, the other one in OK ish shape.
Well, can't get them to fit. I had an accident and the crash bars were replaced. I think the people who replaced them did the job wrong, left side is "roomy" but right side is something a little more than snug, the fork required two people and some swearing and persuasion to get the holes aligned. The plastic things kept falling off, I was having a fit after a while, I was tired so I left them off. I know this will wear out the brand new roller bearings prematurely but I couldn't undo the lower frame fasteners now so I can make space and gave up.
The bike has been parked since August for a lot of reasons that kept me from getting it ready and I just can't wait to get back on the saddle. I miss the light weight, the little force required to turn it and the upright seating. Will have to fix a leaking fork at some point as well. Never operated on a usd fork, that is going to be interesting.
I see.. So in this case I think it is ok to just screw in the pin and lock nut, since the bush won't do the job it is initially designed for. Do you plan to fix that issue with the crash bars re-installation? However I don't quite get how crash bars can influence frame dimensions...
Crash bars are attached using the frame screws. The shop undid both the rear ones and the front. I think they tightened them up wrong or missed a spacer or something. This also explains why crash bars are vibrating a lot, where the old ones, exact same brand and type, were vibration free.
Took a picture of the airbox on my bike, seems to be a lot further from the exhaust than yours.
Oh yes, now that I saw the picture I also remembered, can't find the part code for the upper chain roller which is worn out, lower right side.
Yes, indeed much more space... I need to double check the airbox position...
The roller part number is AP8120972
you can find it following the link below
I use to buy parts from here sometimes.
I recommend to send them a letter with needed part numbers first to check availability prior to ordering.
e-mail is firstname.lastname@example.org
Taken from their web site.
It's "just" 2.19 euros in the local shop... But it's described as "rear brake pedal roller" so I thought it was something else.
One more question. Does anyone know if air intake hose from IE model AP8144326 (produced after 2001), will fit carb version (1999 prod year). As original hose AP8106248 is no longer available...
They look a bit different, but airbox cover for both versions is the same. My concern is diameter of the hoses (will it sit on the carbs?) and distance between the airbox and carbs.
AP8144040 is the part on the local shop's part list for the rubber intake boots of the carbed model. Can't get a result with the ***248 code.
Torque values for the rear gear/pinion screws, anyone? I am having a laugh with the manual, on the chapter 7.1.23 they point you at the chapter 7.3 for the rear wheel and then you are pointed back... No word on how to re-torque the screws after you switch gears.
**edit, I should have chosen better keywords on my google search, there's the result, it's 25Nm
edit2: Someone suggested a two link longer chain can be used, so that the wheelbase becomes longer and the bike more "steady". Tried that and the chain adjusters sit around number 3 at the small window. Wondering if there will be enough room to compensate for the "elongation" later.
Greetings from Romania!
Pictures from the underCarpatic area, hills of 600-700m altitude.
Spring time has come. Last Friday we had in Bucharest -4degrees Celsius, this Friday we had a nice and warm 18 degrees Celsius, today I took my first ride to work for 2018.
I took my time to clean and grease the chain of the Pegaso and also of the new family member the 2015 KX450F that received a lights kit in order to be also street legal.
How is spring in your country? Did you had almost a 20degrees Celsius difference in one week?
Hello, hello, hello.
Got to work on the... OK I keep telling myself it's "the end of the tunnel" with the repairs but that story got old fast
Anyway, had a leaking fork seal and of course I ignored if for long enough. Now, just before the "riding season", I got around to the repair. Bought new fork seals, oil, took the forks out, then I started in taking them apart... Not. One bottom screw is "stuck" meaning no movement whatsoever, one bottom screw turns with the cartridge, so can't take that one out either. Tried a power tool, nothing. So gave that a pause and went to dissasembling. I remebered there were photos in here and I had stared at them for long enough to remember how the fork is built.
Took out the cap, pushed the spring down with one hand while juggling the end of the cartridge with the other, removed the two "half-moon" retainers and all's well. Except for the bit where one fork has "new-ish" oil in it, I mean good clear color and smell (there's a lot missing, if course) and the other one, the one I thought was good, the one that was harder to compress by hand so I thought it was full of oil... Black sludge of minimal volume and there's quite a bit of rust on the top end of the cartridge. Never seen that before, even on neglected bikes. Never took an USD fork apart before but I doubt there's a difference in that rescpect.
Now the fun stuff begins. I had seen youtube videos about USD forks and the seal removal bit was the same as the "right side down" forks. One pulls them apart and one gets seal, slider/bushing and a "ring" that goes in between the two. Imagine my surprise when I pulled and the fork just came apart. Just like that. I was surprised, then I thought I broke something, then I couldn't find out what I could have done wrong... Then I found a russian video on youtube and realised all's well.
So... Started late afternoon, nightfall found me with two fork bottoms left outside the door upside-down to drain the oil I couldn't pump out in a container and the rest of the fork parts are all cleaned up await futher love and attention. How does one proceed to take out the fork seal? The outside "scraping seal" came out easily by hand. Do I just pry the oil seal out with a screwdriver carefully? That bit was not in the video. found a cagiva mito video, same forks or close enough so that's answered.
And secondly, should I try to remove the "stuck" cartridges? On the videos I saw, prople just change the seal and not bother with anything else. I'd really like to clean everything up as well as possible since I'm in there. Will probably have to take them to a shop, can't see what else I can try at home.