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Aprilia Pegaso Riders

Discussion in 'Thumpers' started by klpegaso, Nov 1, 2006.

  1. Fleksta

    Fleksta Been here awhile

    Joined:
    Apr 16, 2010
    Oddometer:
    277
    Location:
    Canaan, NH
    Fired the Cube up for the first time this year to give it a once over before taking it for inspection. Discovered the rear brake switch wasn't working, so got one ordered from AF1. Went out to the garage to leave for work the next day and found this puddle under the center stand:

    [​IMG]

    Looks to have dripped from the larger of the two drain tubes:

    [​IMG]

    Where is the other end of that tube and should I be concerned? I had to crank the bike for a long time before it finally caught (really finnicky carbs) so I thought maybe it was gas, but it hasn't evaporated so must be oil.
  2. amyroukai

    amyroukai Adventurer

    Joined:
    May 8, 2015
    Oddometer:
    45
    Location:
    GR
    Air filter box, I think.
  3. agrior

    agrior n00b

    Joined:
    Apr 16, 2018
    Oddometer:
    1
    Location:
    NL
    I tried the AP8144326 because I was curious reading this thread and also another thread on a different forum (which was closed for new members somehow...). Happy to share my experience here. While it looks similar on the parts diagrams, it's a lot smaller because it's build for injectors. The tubes that hit the injectors are 54mm on outside and 52mm on inside. I could be a few mm's off because I did not want to open the items to be able to return it.

    I own a BMW F650 carb version which has a lot of parts shared with the Pegaso. I don't know exactly that the measurements are for the carbs but a quick look underneath the seat showed that the AP8144326 is way to small. So were all looking for:
    Aprillia: AP8106248 (superseeds AP8144040)
    or BMW: 11 61 2 345 007

    None of those is still being produced so were depending on old stock. A few months ago one was offered on eBay (AP8106248)... Would be nice if these were reproduced by some 3D printing or something... I'm not so happy on converting to pods.
  4. amyroukai

    amyroukai Adventurer

    Joined:
    May 8, 2015
    Oddometer:
    45
    Location:
    GR
    This is fun fun fun...

    So I replaced the fork seals, I thought the new seals went on a little bit too easily... Then saw that stock outside diameter is 52.2 and I bought 52. Only the dealership will sell 52.2 they said, now it will be an interesting thing to see if they will hold.

    While the wheel was out, a friend spotted the front seal was worn, so I thought I'd take a look at changing both bearings and the seal, highly doubt the previous owner ever did. Bumped on this video meaning it's not as easy as I thought, changing them. Not too difficult either, once one finds the "special tool".

    Also changed the brake rotors, serviced the brake calipers with new orings and rubber boots. Still on the fence about new brake lines.

    Only thing I haven't got to refurbishing yet is the carbs.
  5. bing

    bing F800GS & WR250R

    Joined:
    Sep 20, 2005
    Oddometer:
    143
    Location:
    Mid North Coast of NSW
    2003 Pegaso - work in progress...

    Attached Files:

    amyroukai likes this.
  6. RuffStuff

    RuffStuff Been here awhile

    Joined:
    Feb 12, 2011
    Oddometer:
    133
    Location:
    Sunny Southport, UK
    Took my 02 ie for a ride around Windermere. This was outside the famous gingerbread shop in grasmere. 20190217_150603.jpeg
  7. RuffStuff

    RuffStuff Been here awhile

    Joined:
    Feb 12, 2011
    Oddometer:
    133
    Location:
    Sunny Southport, UK
    A few more pics.
    Had to get some of the world famous gingerbread whilst up there.

    Just ordered a tank harness to fit my bag so I don't have to lug the top box about all the time.

    I'm getting around 45mpg (uk), it'd be interesting to see if it makes a difference without. 20190217_154901.jpeg 20190217_150939.jpeg 20190217_161346.jpeg
  8. RuffStuff

    RuffStuff Been here awhile

    Joined:
    Feb 12, 2011
    Oddometer:
    133
    Location:
    Sunny Southport, UK
    Has anyone modified the seat ?
    Got a source for ready done ones ?
    It's killing me after 90+ miles
  9. gstt500

    gstt500 Adventurer

    Joined:
    Feb 10, 2011
    Oddometer:
    71
    Location:
    Duluth, MN
    Does anyone know of a source for a new thermostat or similar replacement? I’ve tried a few of my regular suppliers and no luck.
  10. STisma

    STisma Been here awhile

    Joined:
    Jul 15, 2010
    Oddometer:
    193
    Location:
    Chicago, IL
    I might have one...need to check.
  11. gstt500

    gstt500 Adventurer

    Joined:
    Feb 10, 2011
    Oddometer:
    71
    Location:
    Duluth, MN
    Thanks.
    Found a used one in Romania but shipping might be a bit much.
  12. gjonika

    gjonika n00b

    Joined:
    Apr 16, 2019
    Oddometer:
    1
    Location:
    Lithuania
    Hey everyone! Its amazing to see this post still alive in 2019!

    I have just got my first bike ever and here it is. My 2001 pegaso 650! Already had to take it apart and change a spark;) It was fun.
    Next step crashbars and sidebag supports.
    Also any ideas for a tank bag with the straps?

    Attached Files:

  13. ildivvy

    ildivvy GSX750 fan forever!

    Joined:
    Apr 17, 2019
    Oddometer:
    41
    Location:
    Plovdiv,Bulgaria
    Hello to all Pegaso riders! This is a realy good thread and I enjoy it vary much! I have Pegaso 650ie 03' since almost 2 years and ca. 7000km on it. It is my first 'big' bike with single-cylinder engine. My others bike were more 'road'-type and now I have also a CBR600F4i Sport. Before some years, I readed some good RR and litle by litle I decided to take one, litlle more 'adventure"-bike in my garage. I wanted some DR650RS/E , XTZ660, or maybe Dominator but when this Pegaso poped up I coudn't resist! Now I use my Pegaso to make daily-tours around ouer mountains or to go to beach in Greece (it's vary close by us). I love Pegaso vary much! It average ca. 4,17 ltr/100km ( https://www.spritmonitor.de/de/detailansicht/845439.html ) , but I never make more than 110km/h with it, and it can drop that to 3,7 ltr/100km if I ride it more relaxed thru the mountains. It have enough power for almost everything,very comfy and it is 'spacies'-bike! To this moment I haven't any real/big problem (odometer shows only 20K but I know that they are more). I change only couple of conectors for more personal safety (from alternator to the regulator/rectifier) and conect a litlle digital voltmeter to observe what is going on with 'electrics'. I have also top-case and another 'selfmade' rack for box for bee-transport (my father is take care over ca. ten bee-homes). No other changes.
    You can see some pictures of my Pegaso here: https://www.bikepics.com/members/ildivvy/motorcycles?model=03pegaso650ie .
    barakamonk likes this.
  14. jim rune

    jim rune n00b

    Joined:
    Feb 3, 2019
    Oddometer:
    4
    Location:
    bergen ,norway
    52300391_2542770249085539_487667508958986240_n.jpg 52864578_2556661201029777_3333626707461537792_n.jpg 52864578_2556661201029777_3333626707461537792_n.jpg

    hello fellow pegaso riders. I am also a pegaso rider , got a !992, pegaso GA the first year they came with the 654 watercooled rotax , all earlier pegaso was 600,air cooled 604 rotax.
    so when thinking about that it was the first year with a new engine, the 1992 it have been suprisingly few issues, thinking of that the 654 water cooled rotax is a completly different engine than the 604 aircooled was,
    but I had my share of difficulties with my peg. and I havent had a year yet, but the things that happend is due to no maintenance or service at all, not ever , from the owner (s) before me.

    most of all the carbs, the twin mikuni bst 33 they didnt like the new euro gasolin with 5-10% etanol, just after the gas stations started with the additive of this the o-rings and rubber gaskets in both the mikunis said thanks, and started leaking,the bike didnt run ok below 2-2500 rpm ,and stalled and bogged on every red light,or when ever you let go of the trottle,

    but i got a co,plete overhaul of both carbs ,with o-rings that are chemical resistance, than it suddenly things took a turn for the good, started to run on idle even on 14-1500 rpm without stopping or bogging, ok had to keep the needles in the carbs on 4 notch from the top, so it got fairy rich mixture,
    and the air mix screws on 3-1/2 turn out from bottom in. than it runs quite good and things work out finr exxept the amount of petrol it uses, way moore than any other bike i had but rather fill up a few times than fight with a bike that wont run below 2-2500 rpm, and than of course the poller bearings in the linkage on the rear suspention ,

    was bone dry and had to be changed all of them, ,so right now i am waiting on a new camchain,timingchain from BTS in germany ,was inspecting my valves, checked valve clerance, when i suddenly saw the chain was stretched so it was almost misssing on hakf of the thoots on the cam wheels, the tensioner hadf been changed by the last owner,
    'obviously they hadnt bothered buying a new chain , the manuel chain tensioner can be preloaded on the spring if the chain become to slack,
    but of course this is a sign the chain shuld be changed, so now i have ordered cam chain, complete gasket set,oil seal set and some more items,and this things will be changed before evven i start hefr up again-

    Ordered all needed parts from BTS yesterday and the parts will be here in a week or two,was shipped today ,
    than i get a day or two as greasemonkey before i can start her up and go for new adventures,
    she has just rounded 50,000 km on the clocks so guess shes good for about the double of km before a total engine overhaul
    (if something dont breaks suddenly) but she doesnt use oil,
    and if the previous owner had done any service or even oil filter changes in the 6 years he had it, she had been happier to,
    ,but he just once changed the oil ,the days before i bought the bike from him ,no filter cause he didnt find where the oil filter was on it .he said??

    and he had filled it up to the top in the frame with oil,so when i was driving home the oil started come out ,and flow over , but lucky enough i saw it at once, so i drained 1.5l of and than all was good.

    so on 6 years he once changed oil on it and than overfilled it, almost as i feel like the bike had a so bad life before. with no service or maintanance so I try to do good and change filters ,oil every 5000km and really take care of her she might softens up and give me some great adventures witout nasty mechanical suprises ,i at least hope so.
    pegasos are big bikes, tall and the single thumper 654 rotax give a good feel and the sound is great, and are pretty good and trusty engines .
    so when the summer ,2019 goes on , ypu soon hear from me again how thin gs have turned out between me and my peg,

    got her new side bags. rack to fasten the bags and even tool boxes, and new tires Mitas e-07 on both wheels,
    and a lot of things, seat covers, and touring gear, and most important ,several oil filters and airfilters, and a few gallons of 15-50 oil, and new bearings for the rear suspention , swingarm, new seals for the fork legs and, gone over all eletrical, changed coil and voltage regulator,
    so hope the old peggy is gonna show me her happy side soon,

    jim from Norway

    Attached Files:

  15. ildivvy

    ildivvy GSX750 fan forever!

    Joined:
    Apr 17, 2019
    Oddometer:
    41
    Location:
    Plovdiv,Bulgaria
    Jim Rone, I think that your carb may be need some more adjusting.You allready done the most dificult job with renewing of the worned parts in them,but now is the moment of master-job with their final settings ! I believe, your Pegaso will live an entirely and more happy new live after this rebuild !
    jim rune likes this.
  16. jim rune

    jim rune n00b

    Joined:
    Feb 3, 2019
    Oddometer:
    4
    Location:
    bergen ,norway
    it runs very well now but the milage is poor, it really uses a lot, but no boging or stalling not even at 14-1500rpm , even if I start her up I need the choke but after running for some min she runs fine without , not very good pull in her with the choke on though, probably gets to much gas than.

    Gonna re adjust the carbs after I am done with the timing chain and a few other pieces I have ordered from Germany,they said yesterday the parts will arrive early next week,but waiting on some new rubber manifolds i was hoping to install first, not sure of mine are leaking or not but suspect they du, they are quite cracky and have , been trough their best years for sure,got a order for two: ap81006523 manifolds which should fit good for mikuni carburators,
    ,they where quite expencive. about 205 euro , 102,5 for each of them
    i have just ordered a new brake calliper and some other few things now this mornings on line to,

    and was also thinking of buying another sub frame,and swing arm,
    mine have a few rusty spots on both swing and subframe,
    and if I am gonna take down the subframe and swing arm,
    it will be imobilised for to long of a time.
    and off course will be changing the needle bearings in the swingarm and the suspension linkage,
    and got me a second linkage cause the one that was on the bike had two or three rusty bearings ,
    so i can take the best parts from the two extra and the one on the bike and make one really good linkage,
    and gonna get me a lowering kit the funduros do fit ,perfect,
    but i cant find any cheaper than 159,- pounds quite steep price for two dog bones in alu that are just 2,5mm longer than the ones already there.

    But need to get her lowered a bit cause I am tip toeing at every stop, and I travel a lot by ferry, and to not pay attetion when the ferry docks, when you are tip toeing on the deck is to ask for some tip over sooner or later, havent trid it on rain slippy steel deck and oily shoes yet, but i am pretty sure of tghe outcome of that.
    so lowering kit is an expencive thing, but not can be even moore expencive some day when the ferry docks a litle hard and my shoetips are wet and slippy.

    I have bought both the 22/28/16 -5pc needlebearings and the 18/24/12- 4pc_ ,
    but havent got the seals 22/28/4 -6pc and 18/24/3 -4 pc ,
    so i have just been checking online who could have those in stock, BTS had the 22/16 NTN needlebearings,for only 5 euro pr pc
    but not the 18/12 but got them on ebay from UK.
    (those became a lot more expencive, about 2-3 times the BTS price.)
    When it comes to the seals, i might get the OEM parts there ?.
    so the bearings last as long as they should.
    (have bought me a linkage and needle bearings and seal already)

    ,So when the swingarm comes off next time it will be bearings and seal , and new paint,
    ( if I get the someone to sandblast the swingarm first but I dont have sandblasting gear my self so with all things that i dont do my self ,wont be done)
    , but if I had another I could have changed both bearings and given it a real thick coating of primer and some good paint,to last.

    So I am gonna do a lot of things to upgrade her (not more than she was as new back in 92 (27 years ago?? whow times fly),
    but as close to that as I get her,)
    now this year, and the next winter (when the snow is making it less fun to drive motorbike, the engine will be taken off ,taken inside on my work bench,and going trough the gear box , at least ,bearings, and seals, and springs at the shifter.

    I have a cagiva and have done the same there ,so its really perfeckt shape , new overhauled engine ,gear and even have another spare engine redy to go in the cagiva frame , totaly overhauled engine with all bearings ,
    cyl and all seals and as new in case the one that is on the cagiva now breaks down, its not very expencive parts this gear end bearings and seal.gasket sets, so why not. the time is my own and dont pay hours to any mechaninic,
    and I learing more and more ,and know my bikes well in the end, cant be seen as work but as hobby , time, some plays games,sports, or other things in their time off, I got all of the days free to do anything,so this is great.
    ( early retired, cause I had a heart issue and had to get pacemaker for 12-13 yeaars ago),
    and when I work on my bikes, to get them as i wish,I also get to know them really good, every screw and all small things.

    But enough about that , maybe check the shifter forks if they are stright and not to worn also when I got the gearbox on the table
    (remember the cagiva gear was not to bad before but after the new engine was put in the frame the bike was a new bike to ride).

    I got the first type of rotax 654 made only in 1992-1994 (I think it was) with ball bearings in the cranck case,
    and the ball bearings are not dependant on oilpressure between bearing halfs and the cranck shaft as the new (1995-2005)ones are,
    the latest pegasos 2005-2012 with the piaggo 660 (yamaha 660 engine has also ballbearings in cranck if I understood it right, )
    will stand more things like running laying on the side,
    and the ball bearings doesnt run dry on just a few seconds,
    (but they are noisier engines ) but the pressure dependant halfs on the 95-2005 doesnt do so well with any stops , in the oil pressure ,as in them the oil is what the crank" floats" on in the bearings,


    The first few years of the pegasos had no oil lamp either,from the facktory,
    no lamp in the dashboard, as the first years production, and the ones with ballbearing crancks didnt have any oil warning lamp or warning for missing oil presssure,
    no oilpressure gauge or pressureswitch, on the top off the oilfilter housing either,
    to connect the lamp to, just a litle screw blocking the hole that the later ones had fitted with pressure switch for the oil pressure .

    If I find a pressure switch that can deal with this lower pressure in these earlier years engines,
    I think I will install a oil warning light on to the bike,
    (it wasnt the best idea to leave that out if you ask my oppinion,)
    maybe they got lower pressure but they also need the oil to circulate, so when riding on trails or roads,
    who unscrews tha oil cap once in a while to se that all is good and the oil circulating,
    maybe been done once in a while before and after a ride , just to check,
    but my guess is if you than discover no circulation, you better hope its just stopped,
    cause its no good way to define when driving, and a light had been so easy and can save you a whole engine and if your a long way from home maybe a ruined adventure.

    I have a ritual for this, I release the cap on the oil tank on frame ,first then I put the key in the ignition,turns the choke to full, (if shes cold) than presses the start button, she starts right up,and I look into the oil tank, checking that the oil start circulating at once,
    and also when having the cap off, check the coulor of the oil,
    ( guess the waterpump issue i heard so much abuot scares me a litle,have bought me two sets of seals for the pump,from ebay, to keep as emergecy spare parts,and a new pumpshaft, and an impeller to,)
    but the weak part of this waterpump issue is that before you notice any overheating, or missing coolant,
    water would have gone in to the cluch housing and mixed/not mixed but destoyed your oil,
    and it takes very tiny amounts of water to destroy all the oil on a engine,so this is an issue to beware off.

    ( 2.2 liters with oil in the frame tank, oil lines and engine, and 1,4-1,5 l of water,in the coolant system,so if half the water leaks out trough the seals and out of the engine, its than still plenty of water to potentially leak into the engine,andhalf of it is enough to destroy all the oil several times over if not dealt with early enough)
    but with the two oilseals for the pump shaft, the tools needed in the toolbox, and a new shaft if its to scorn or worn, than it should be 1/2 hours work to get the pump ,sealed and fixed.

    have a spare clutch cover laying here I changed both the seals, and fittet a new shaft,just bwith the tools from the toolbox I keep on the bike,to have tried it ,took me a little more than 1/2 hour, but had to take of the clutch housing for the changing of shaft,to get the plastic sprocket in the back, on to the shaft safely, and when the big clutchcover is taken off, some off the oil will than come out ,(you can lean the bike over to the opposite side to prevent most of it though, but some will leak before all screws are removed and clutchcover is off,something thing to collect the oil in would be good, and a gasket sealent for the cluthcover gasket was vwery handy I found out,(very easy to rip a big gasket like that when doing a repair along the road a litle stressed and maybe not ideeal conditions or place or the most ideeal tools)
    so there was a few things to experience, it was easier,and a lot quicker than i feared but a lot messier than i would have hoped ,
    and things to remember when going into the waterpump fix,
    (luckyly I was at home. but doing it with the tools from the bikes toolbox just to practise a pump repair )but some good lessons leared , so i will keep that in mind and remember it in the future.

    Back to the oil check,( 1992-94 pegaso done by visual check)
    take a peak into the frametank,to see that it circulates (then all is good and remember the only oil warning you got )
    ,and oil is one thing engines need like we need blood circulating in us, so to have an indicator lamp for the oilpressure,is a thing i am gonna do as soon as i can, so at least if the pressure goes(there are also rubber hoses on the outside on this engines, if one of them are bent and squized hard enough between engine/frame or some twigg has come in between, the oil circulation can be stoped due to clogged pipes or hoses ,
    if you than had a warning light to make you aware off the issue,you can turn of the engine and might not trash all off your engine.
    so the small red lamp,on a pressure switch, makes it a litle safer that way, i would feel safer with it, at least.

    have a lot of plans with the bike
    (started as a cheap ADV alternative, but already now the price ,with tires, parts, and bags, racks and the extras,tools and onn and on, I could have bought me a newer and moore ready to go bike, not new but not that very old either,
    but one thing that is great is that all the things i done my self so i know how its done , and will be easier to repair or dismantle sometimes ,course we know it will come both with new and even more with old bikes, the time when repaires shows up ,it comes, if you want or not,so if i can buy good used parts,for most expencive things, Aprilia got some insaine parts prices on OEM spare parts,

    like the cdi a new cost over 400 euro, a used from the sellers on ebay take about 1/2 that price, but even if it works when you recive it its an old part and can suddenly be failing, I got in contect with a guy from Slovakia, he makes cdi for all kind of bikes, and give you 1 year full warranty as new part.
    and he takes 85 euro incl shipping than the cdi comes with plugs that fit direct in to the bikes plugs, and was of almost identical size,and i tested it i am very pleased with it, so there are ways to save,a lot, but make sure you dont do the wrong choises regarding this,
    (like ex. chinese cranck bearings, might get them for 1/10 of the price, and fit well and all seems good
    .but than the whole rest of the engine dipends on the chinese bearings,do they break,
    the rest of the engine does also break down with it.
    thats saving the wrong way, and it can be expencive, make sure that internal parts are not so they can fail, brake loose or crack and be raging inside and trashing the engine )


    .So i am gonna try to do all the things that is , essential at home where the tools and , possibility to check online if there is things i dont get right, and try to do asmuch of it at home and not in the trails somewhere, else.

    but gonna do it the cheap way, some used parts,and do all the repairs my self,learn as I go ,
    have downloaded all the repatirhandbooks, both for 92 aprilia peg, and rotx 655, and part catalogue with expl.wiew drawings of all the bike, so i can study it that way to.
    spent many hours reading the repair manual and also got the haynes for bmw mod169, f650 funduro ) and have read alot in that one most of it the same but a few things that only peggy has,is there,
    The camchain tensioner, is not at all the same, and the 5 valve syl head is only on pegaso,not the same at the camchain wheels on cranck (peggy got a liltle more complex camchain drive than the funduro,
    and are litle moore tricky to dismantle to change the chain)
    andsome differences regarding eletrical , and than I get to know the bike,
    something that can be a wonderful thing later on ,far away on a dark , trail somewhere ,I never been and dont know anybody,
    than its great to know the symptoms of things, and have at least a clue what to do ,and how to do it,
    so the old bike isnt gonna be cheap in the long run, but she hopfully will be better and better, with the upgrades, services,and technical suited and fit for long real adventures ,not dependant on anybody but your self and your bike and that you have done the right choises and brought the right tools, and done the right repairs in a good enough way.

    So as time goes the trust in a good bike becomes better and better, but keep it in the back of your head, anyway how good you know the bike, or have done the preparations, some unknown factor can show up like a jack out of a box, so hold back a litle extra, and dont strech the limits to much cause some day maybe things turn out in ways noone can say in advance .

    But for me I will put in time and parts and money ,and that way this is buying a neclegted litle beat up old pegaso, and turn it into a , well equipped and suited bike as times go, and hope to get that much done with her that i can feel secure and know the bike that good ,and at least feel safe, so its a bit of the whole adventure, to take steps into the unknown, but in a way that doesnt have to risk life or lims.

    its gonna be the opposite to buying a new one and driving and wear and tear, and after some years the wear winns,
    the total cost for both the one or the other way,will be the same in the end i guess, but i get a lot moore oil in my face and hands dirty,
    and i have to think of its a nearly 30 years old bike to,
    but there are good things to that to, (most things are more serviceable on the old stuff) and i need to be moore awake and beware of sounds,and vibrations,to make sure the bike runs as it suposed to, the new ones does that by them selves.
    but the nice thing is you get used to listen and be aware of the old bike ,so when i tested a few new bikes lately,
    i got a litle bit bored cause i like to be on alert to live and feel the bike, and not just be driving it , but more living it,and living with it,

    this is just meant as my own thoughts along the way , and not as answers. but if you find some idea you can use , be my guest , feel free, but i am learing as i go, ,so my way is moore try and sometimes fail,mostly not and leared moore than i lost, but cant be sure to give the right answer.

    wish all you fellow pegaso riders the best and hope you are doing great and that you will find your way to the greatest adventures.

    jim from norway
  17. STisma

    STisma Been here awhile

    Joined:
    Jul 15, 2010
    Oddometer:
    193
    Location:
    Chicago, IL
    Sorry, not available.
  18. ildivvy

    ildivvy GSX750 fan forever!

    Joined:
    Apr 17, 2019
    Oddometer:
    41
    Location:
    Plovdiv,Bulgaria
    Hi again friends! I want to ask if some one know how many liters REALY is the fuel tank volume? I read everywhere that,the tank is 21l (including 5l reserve) -> 16l main + 5l reserve = 21l all. In Saturday,when I came back from Greece,I made 364km and my reserve fuel light came ON like usual! When this light cames ON I can refill (usual) only 14-15l in the tank.In this way,I know that I have almost 5-6l like reserve fuel... And this Saturday, I don't refill fuel,just keep riding,becouse I had only 60km to go home. But after just 50km my bike shut off for fuel..! I suspect that I can't fill all 21l in the tank,becouse I fill with bike in side stand (not on center stand). This mean that I must have at least 4-5l in it when reserve fuel light come ON ! And YES,I have fuel in the tank,but fuel pump coudn't take it. I was lucky enough to be only for 2-300m from fuel-station. I refill 5l and went to my home...That is why I think,the tank is not with 21l volume or the pump is litlle hi (then usual) from the bottom of the tank! It's not so normal to have 2-3-4l fuel in tank and to stop for 'fuel starving'...If some one know what is real tank volume or is this situation normal - lets write some answer! Thank you in advance!
  19. amyroukai

    amyroukai Adventurer

    Joined:
    May 8, 2015
    Oddometer:
    45
    Location:
    GR
    Most I have put in was 20.6 liters for 333km.

    Can't get the light to work right though. I thought. It was broken, bought new part, new part makes light stay on all the time... So put the old broken part back on and reset counter to zero at every fill up.


    Just saw, first fill up was 21.3, somehow the guy who sold it to me managed to bring it bone dry, pushed 100 meters to the fuel station.
  20. RuffStuff

    RuffStuff Been here awhile

    Joined:
    Feb 12, 2011
    Oddometer:
    133
    Location:
    Sunny Southport, UK
    I get about 175 miles from brimmed to light, mixed riding & slightly rich fuelling as fi not mapped to cans. Rotax motor not yam. I've never got more than 18l in the tank