Around Oz - R1200 GSA - Perth to Nambour - Part 1

Discussion in 'Ride Reports - Epic Rides' started by spacey1, Jul 21, 2010.

  1. spacey1

    spacey1 Spacey

    Joined:
    Apr 11, 2010
    Oddometer:
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    Location:
    Perth, Western Australia
    Around Oz - R1200 GSA - Perth to Nambour - Part 1

    2008 model / 40,000km odo start / 40k Service just completed at Auto Classics / New Mitas E-10 Enduro tyres front and rear from Tyres for Bikes / Australian Winter, July 2010

    <table style="width: auto;"><tbody><tr><td>[​IMG]</td></tr><tr><td style="font-family: arial,sans-serif; font-size: 11px; text-align: right;">From ADV Rider Ride Report</td></tr></tbody></table>

    Greetings all, I'm beginning my story from somewhere near the end, while I was broken down in Longreach Queensland due to a cracked brake line under the fuel tank. It is part of the ABS distribution system. Only 47,000 km on the clock. It's gotta be vibration induced as nothing can touch it nestled under the tank. Anybody else experienced this failure? I will build the story with photos as time allows.

    What did I pack?

    <table style="width:auto;"><tr><td><a href="http://picasaweb.google.com.au/lh/photo/sHi9bRNqwoR5CiJUAhxLrQ?feat=embedwebsite"><img src="http://lh4.ggpht.com/_9lXPZ1u4Q98/TGKv5dvEedI/AAAAAAAADVU/T_SUcrNtwIc/s600/20100701_005_bmwHome.jpg" /></a></td></tr><tr><td style="font-family:arial,sans-serif; font-size:11px; text-align:right">From <a href="http://picasaweb.google.com.au/spacey1/ADVRiderRideReport?feat=embedwebsite">ADV Rider Ride Report</a></td></tr></table>
    Left pannier: All tent gear including, 2-man tent (200 grams lighter than 1 person tent allowing more room to stow gear undercover); 3.5 cm self-inflating mattress to keep warm bodies off the cold ground / concrete); groundsheet (to keep tent cleaner and drier); metal and sand tent-pegs; 2x thin sleeping bags (2 for the cold, one for hot temperatures in the north - Darwin / Karumba), both packed in compression sacks;

    Right pannier: Tools/repair kits; chargers/power packs for electronic devices; 12v to 240v invertor for emergency power; first aid box; small hammer for tent pegs and protection while sleeping; backup map book; tow rope; food items including emergency rations / tea / coffee in tube / museli bars / berroca tablets for cramps / glucose tablets / water purifyer tablets / army cutlery; hiker's gas cooker and 2x gas cans; hikers cook set; sunscreen; long sleeve shirt for sun protection; assorted rags

    Top-box: Gortex jacket (in compression sack); clean clothes (underwear, thermals, socks, shorts, tee-shirts, beanies, gloves); cable lock (to secure bike); misc daily food items (nuts, dried fruit, museli bars, fruit cake, fresh fruit where available, waterproof ex-army ground sheet- quick rain protection and keeps tent cleaner); mini camping towels (x2)

    Rear seat: String-type net grocery bag (Held down by a selection of bungee cords) containing water (2 litre bottle), strong ratchet tie-down (emergency strap), thongs, one piece wet weather overall; assorted climbers aluminium loops.

    Tank bag (BMW): Day maps printed from the HEMA 4WD Tracks of Australia (feature all campsite facilities in Australia updated yearly), 11" laptop with HEMA 4WD Tracks of Australia loaded, GPS (cheap TomTom Start for Australian town/city use only for guiding to friends addresses), USB hard disk / thumb drive for backing up photos/videos, wallet, etc. Broke both zips on main cover of the 'BMW Tank Bag' on 2nd day.

    <table style="width:auto;"><tr><td><a href="http://picasaweb.google.com.au/lh/photo/rRdp6sJwmgUBmJVO-SaOMA?feat=embedwebsite"><img src="http://lh6.ggpht.com/_9lXPZ1u4Q98/TGKziUtiFXI/AAAAAAAADVo/1EQ69ck901A/s600/20100704_164_gear.jpg" /></a></td></tr><tr><td style="font-family:arial,sans-serif; font-size:11px; text-align:right">From <a href="http://picasaweb.google.com.au/spacey1/ADVRiderRideReport?feat=embedwebsite">ADV Rider Ride Report</a></td></tr></table>
    Helmet: Arai Tour-X 2 DC - lightweight, good vision, peak provided shaded vision from sun in early mornings and evenings, noisey (very) at road speed behind the tall screen.It's quieter in clean air standing up at 130kph. Eventually applied gaffer tape over the trailing edge of the peak to close the gap at the top of the helmet. This reduced the noise significantly. May consider a screen extension for the ride home.

    Boots: SIDI rain boots; warm and dry; comfy; easy to walk in all day (eg 20 coffee shops in Longreach, wandering around the Olgas).

    Back Pack: CamelBak 3 litre (water to sip constantly); safety glo vest (for emergency); misc storage of assorted loose items.

    Cameras: GoPro Hero (hands free shooting) worn on Chesty strap (Full 1080p HD and 5 megapixel stills with 2sec/5sec/10sec/60sec mode); note to self, forgetting to turn off camera when 2sec auto shooting mode is selected, fills a 16 gb memory card quite quickly; mostly used the 960p tall mode for video; fantastic quality video and images; Olympus Tough 12 megapixel waterproof still camera for pocket use, great camera for all round use; robust and waterproof.

    July 1: Day 1 - Perth to Kalgoorlie

    600km to Kalgoorlie in unexpectedly cold weather 12 degrees C, under-dressed for the occasion, saved by heated hand-grips. Beautiful stands of copper coloured Gimlet gums, beautiful at sunset, a medium sized eucalypt with very attractive fluted, copper or khaki coloured trunk, very frost resistant and salt tolerant and is grown throughout the world. It's preference for rich loamy soils resulted in large stands being cleared for farming.

    <table style="width:auto;"><tr><td><a href="http://picasaweb.google.com.au/lh/photo/SfsjHDEKqVDdh2lvD0bF3w?feat=embedwebsite"><img src="http://lh5.ggpht.com/_9lXPZ1u4Q98/TGK1N5UnqWI/AAAAAAAADV0/fKGqPQlidN8/s600/20100702_011_kalgoorlieHarry.jpg" /></a></td></tr><tr><td style="font-family:arial,sans-serif; font-size:11px; text-align:right">From <a href="http://picasaweb.google.com.au/spacey1/ADVRiderRideReport?feat=embedwebsite">ADV Rider Ride Report</a></td></tr></table>

    July 2: Day 2 - Kalgoorlie to Laverton

    Thanks to Dear Friends in Kalgoorlie for rescuing me from the unexpected cold with a warm fire and even warmer hospitality. Even got a chance to convert the young 'un to BMW, on ya Harry :clap One reason to visit Kalgoorlie-Boulder is to see the Super Pit gold mine. It is also the main reason Kalgoorlie-Boulder exists. This super open cut mine is moving ever closer to the town. It has just been given a reprieve, more land was allocated extending the mine life by reportedly another 7 years. All I can say is that there's a lot of money in gold :D Apparently it is possible to drive under the town through tunnels. One day, I'm sure they will move the town. There was an earthquake in Boulder in April 2010. Many buildings suffered superficial damage. Sadly none are repaired. Apparently a lack of people to inspect and assess the buildings and homes. There are still people who are locked out of their homes.

    <table style="width:auto;"><tr><td><a href="http://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/eY-39wIEK8JgqMU3iWg4Fw?feat=embedwebsite"><img src="http://lh4.ggpht.com/_9lXPZ1u4Q98/TG-VRk5aeAI/AAAAAAAADcI/DPtjsqEnWMs/s600/P7020100.jpg" /></a></td></tr><tr><td style="font-family:arial,sans-serif; font-size:11px; text-align:right">From <a href="http://picasaweb.google.com/spacey1/ADVRiderRideReport?feat=embedwebsite">ADV Rider Ride Report</a></td></tr></table>
    The Super Pit gold mine is simply overwhelming in size.

    <table style="width:auto;"><tr><td><a href="http://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/uLvdIJfMR8mXSIFYwQpRWA?feat=embedwebsite"><img src="http://lh5.ggpht.com/_9lXPZ1u4Q98/TG-Vy8FGfrI/AAAAAAAADcU/Pkpj4miJjIY/s600/P7020111.jpg" /></a></td></tr><tr><td style="font-family:arial,sans-serif; font-size:11px; text-align:right">From <a href="http://picasaweb.google.com/spacey1/ADVRiderRideReport?feat=embedwebsite">ADV Rider Ride Report</a></td></tr></table>

    <table style="width:auto;"><tr><td><a href="http://picasaweb.google.com.au/lh/photo/Ti6SSdDltamq3ZVJm3MRYw?feat=embedwebsite"><img src="http://lh4.ggpht.com/_9lXPZ1u4Q98/TIJGq-FavYI/AAAAAAAADg4/M6hlcY13Yg4/s600/a20100702_kalgoorlieToLaverton_014.jpg" /></a></td></tr><tr><td style="font-family:arial,sans-serif; font-size:11px; text-align:right">From <a href="http://picasaweb.google.com.au/spacey1/ADVRiderRideReport?feat=embedwebsite">ADV Rider Ride Report</a></td></tr></table>
    To the uninitiated, the first sighting of Australian road trains can be a little intimidating. Leaving Leonora on the way to Laverton, this little road train came my way. I managed to get a reasonable shot with the GoPro 5 megapixel set on 2 second mode. The road trains can be up to 4 trailers and 53 metres long.

    <table style="width:auto;"><tr><td><a href="http://picasaweb.google.com.au/lh/photo/MLL-Rn2reYEjAg-2kR6XGg?feat=embedwebsite"><img src="http://lh3.ggpht.com/_9lXPZ1u4Q98/TIJIYiEyZ6I/AAAAAAAADhA/S46CCcwuTag/s600/a20100702_kalgoorlieToLaverton_060.jpg" /></a></td></tr><tr><td style="font-family:arial,sans-serif; font-size:11px; text-align:right">From <a href="http://picasaweb.google.com.au/spacey1/ADVRiderRideReport?feat=embedwebsite">ADV Rider Ride Report</a></td></tr></table>
    One of the many surprises on this trip was the road conditions. From Perth to Kalgoorlie, the highway was generally in very average condition. North of Kalgoorlie to Leonora (see photo above taken in the GoPro standing position, note shadow on left), the road condition just improved from average to simple outstanding. I was beginning to wonder why I was riding a GS Adventure, no rough roads here. It just kept getting better all the way to Laverton. Simple amazing tar roads out there, smooth, flat, wide, beautiful. However that was all to change past Laverton... thankfully.

    July 3: Day 3 - Laverton to Tjukayirla

    Bloody freezing. Left the last of good friends at Laverton. Finally left the bitumen and hit the dirt, nearly literally... The track was quite good. Had to be careful of loose surfaces. Fully laden GSA's are not reknown for stability in sandy, loose washouts. About three quarters of an hour on the dirt, I encountered just that.

    <table style="width: auto;"><tbody><tr><td>[​IMG]</td></tr><tr><td style="font-family: arial,sans-serif; font-size: 11px; text-align: right;">From ADV Rider Ride Report</td></tr></tbody></table>

    <table style="width:auto;"><tr><td><a href="http://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/1SNYjml2V4HYMXduFmJFtQ?feat=embedwebsite"><img src="http://lh4.ggpht.com/_9lXPZ1u4Q98/TG-hiY1ztzI/AAAAAAAADc4/MmdxCQTzui4/s600/20100703_00128_yeoLakeStop.jpg" /></a></td></tr><tr><td style="font-family:arial,sans-serif; font-size:11px; text-align:right">From <a href="http://picasaweb.google.com/spacey1/ADVRiderRideReport?feat=embedwebsite">ADV Rider Ride Report</a></td></tr></table>
    Braved my way through the biggest longest tank slapper ever. Name a shade of white, and I was it at some stage. With handlebars waving uncontrollably and the backend flapping like a flag, I thought the end was nigh, but praise be the desert gods. They were saving up for later no doubt. 250 km (or so) arrived at Tjukayirla Roadhouse.

    <table style="width:auto;"><tr><td><a href="http://picasaweb.google.com.au/lh/photo/kLO0g6_Lk6I6VP1Jo0ZQbQ?feat=embedwebsite"><img src="http://lh5.ggpht.com/_9lXPZ1u4Q98/TIJN9Wu97bI/AAAAAAAADhU/FJbOMymTvZU/s600/P7030133.jpg" /></a></td></tr><tr><td style="font-family:arial,sans-serif; font-size:11px; text-align:right">From <a href="http://picasaweb.google.com.au/spacey1/ADVRiderRideReport?feat=embedwebsite">ADV Rider Ride Report</a></td></tr></table>
    Difficult to imagine a roadhouse out here. Surprised to find free wifi, best hamburger I've ever eaten ($13 and worth it), no mobile phone out here. So splashed $16 on Skype and made all my calls to family this way. Cheap calls and unbelievable quality. Way better than my mobile... So cold, I chose the 'woose' option and got a donga out back. $75 and worth every cent, clean, heated, and secure. Couldn't ask for more. Friendly good advice from the manager (Avoid camping at Warburton and Docker River). Much drama caused by petrol sniffing, alcoholism, drug addiction and abuse. I won't comment on the price of fuel, other than to say it's definitely not city prices. Ya gotta have it. Unleaded was available! Don't need to put the rubbish Opal anti-sniffing stuff in yet.

    July 4: Day 4 - Tjukayirla to Warakurna (Giles)

    Departed Tjukayirla, on another cold desert morning, got up to 12 degrees C this day. I stopped quite a lot on this section of the trip. Mostly when the track passed through rocky escarpments. Great opportunities to drop the side-stand, turn off the big german twin, grab a bite to eat and drink, then climb to the top of the escarpment. This provides the opportunity to sit and ponder those who have passed this way before. How brave souls walked this land covering in a week what ground I cover in a day. How time has forgotten this land. Sitting and listening to the silence... It adds a real perspective on life. This stolen time empties ones mind of the rubbish that propels us through that juggernaut that is our daily grind. The simply sweet pleasure of nothing... In this pure isolation, one focuses on the important things in life. The rest... forgotten.

    <table style="width:auto;"><tr><td><a href="http://picasaweb.google.com.au/lh/photo/KtUPm7XCoiWIb-qMS87x3A?feat=embedwebsite"><img src="http://lh4.ggpht.com/_9lXPZ1u4Q98/TIJPS20yhgI/AAAAAAAADhg/mkUVM8eEuJQ/s600/20100704_lonelyBMW.jpg" /></a></td></tr><tr><td style="font-family:arial,sans-serif; font-size:11px; text-align:right">From <a href="http://picasaweb.google.com.au/spacey1/ADVRiderRideReport?feat=embedwebsite">ADV Rider Ride Report</a></td></tr></table>
    Arrived in Warakurna (Giles) early, or so I thought. First gotcha out here is that Giles, while still geographically located in Western Australia, actually works on Northern Territory time. That is one and a half hours ahead of Western Australia. Therefore 3.00pm = 4.30pm. If you are not aware of this, they are quite unforgiving. Example, no weather station tour, no access to the roadhouse on Sunday after 3.00pm.

    <table style="width:auto;"><tr><td><a href="http://picasaweb.google.com.au/lh/photo/LG8CZzr8cyJBIVcNCmod_g?feat=embedwebsite"><img src="http://lh6.ggpht.com/_9lXPZ1u4Q98/TIJMMIT7aAI/AAAAAAAADhI/d8ENuliKd_k/s600/20100704_00165_warakurnaRoadhouse.jpg" /></a></td></tr><tr><td style="font-family:arial,sans-serif; font-size:11px; text-align:right">From <a href="http://picasaweb.google.com.au/spacey1/ADVRiderRideReport?feat=embedwebsite">ADV Rider Ride Report</a></td></tr></table>
    Therefore the roadhouse was closed. In fact everything was closed. Sunday afternoon, 4.30pm, that's a surprise. No early starts from here. Need to wait for the roadhouse to open at 8.00am on Monday morning. There were another four vehicles at various stages of setting up camp at the very good campsite. Good facilities; water; backpackers quarters (not open Sunday arvo), enclosed cooking / eating area; but no one around to take your money for fees. Warakurna also appears to be secure. Probably due to the Police Station across the road.

    <table style="width:auto;"><tr><td><a href="http://picasaweb.google.com.au/lh/photo/tIl8vHunpjUtgZkyjluGRw?feat=embedwebsite"><img src="http://lh6.ggpht.com/_9lXPZ1u4Q98/TIJYmMNLxgI/AAAAAAAADiQ/zI6DqlcN0gE/s600/20100705_00183_giles.jpg" /></a></td></tr><tr><td style="font-family:arial,sans-serif; font-size:11px; text-align:right">From <a href="http://picasaweb.google.com.au/spacey1/ADVRiderRideReport?feat=embedwebsite">ADV Rider Ride Report</a></td></tr></table>
    Now if you needed to get away from the dirt, Warakurna provides a short stretch of bitumen through the community to keep the dust at bay. Don't speed however, as there is the small matter of the police station at the half-way point on this 500 metre strip. I'm sure planes land here in emergencies.

    July 5: Day 5 - Warakurna (Giles) to Yulara

    Compulsory viewing is the weather station at Giles about a kilometre from Warakurna. Giles is one of the key meteorological stations in Australia. Make sure to be on time for the weather balloon launch / short tour. They are quite grumpy out there and will not let you in afterwards. The museum is always open and is very interesting. The location, with mountains in the background is gorgeous. Also the rocket booster stage adds to the remoteness of the location.

    <table style="width:auto;"><tr><td><a href="http://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/MQ9YIpyIMCctPdfen2ysKg?feat=embedwebsite"><img src="http://lh4.ggpht.com/_9lXPZ1u4Q98/TG-j1KfgirI/AAAAAAAADdQ/bdDv7Xrcbt4/s600/20100705_00189_giles.jpg" /></a></td></tr><tr><td style="font-family:arial,sans-serif; font-size:11px; text-align:right">From <a href="http://picasaweb.google.com/spacey1/ADVRiderRideReport?feat=embedwebsite">ADV Rider Ride Report</a></td></tr></table>

    <table style="width:auto;"><tr><td><a href="http://picasaweb.google.com.au/lh/photo/529_PRo4r_sJitbNgrJWZA?feat=embedwebsite"><img src="http://lh5.ggpht.com/_9lXPZ1u4Q98/TIJWUTIhxlI/AAAAAAAADhw/whne3O96gOE/s600/20100704_00171_warakurnaRoadhouse.jpg" /></a></td></tr><tr><td style="font-family:arial,sans-serif; font-size:11px; text-align:right">From <a href="http://picasaweb.google.com.au/spacey1/ADVRiderRideReport?feat=embedwebsite">ADV Rider Ride Report</a></td></tr></table>
    Heading east from Warakurna, well at least at the end of the bitumen, is the sign we all love to see. 'Warakurna to Warburton >> Road Open'. a) You're going in the right direction and b) the road is open... (ie. the rain has stayed away so far).

    <table style="width:auto;"><tr><td><a href="http://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/Ux1zVF68GB1MqBPILXiYdA?feat=embedwebsite"><img src="http://lh4.ggpht.com/_9lXPZ1u4Q98/TG-m8yfFh2I/AAAAAAAADdw/_wZeoqWImRE/s600/20100705_00190_mtTaylorGetOff.jpg" /></a></td></tr><tr><td style="font-family:arial,sans-serif; font-size:11px; text-align:right">From <a href="http://picasaweb.google.com/spacey1/ADVRiderRideReport?feat=embedwebsite">ADV Rider Ride Report</a></td></tr></table>
    One of my more eventful stops... I parked on the Great Central Road heading past Mt Taylor. The bike fell over here. I had to unload it and drag it down on the flat to get it back up again. Hurt my knee in the process. Note to self: This is a very large heavy motorcycle. It is a sorry story about the need to disconnect the engine cut-out on the side-stand.

    With the suspension in the highest position, the side-stand down on the high side of the bike, it was teetering close to tipping over, I could only just touch the ground with tippy toes on the high side, and didn't have enough purchase to kick back the side-stand out the small rut it was stuck in. 'Put it in gear and ride out' I hear you say. Tried that and got the dreaded engine cut-out... 'Let the suspension down' I hear you say next. Did that and of course those 2 inches were all the convincing a 300 kg GSA needed to finally prove gravity really exists. Luckily due to the engine protection bars and the right side pannier, no damage ensued.

    <table style="width:auto;"><tr><td><a href="http://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/hn77o9Y1MwDUowKemOQbjg?feat=embedwebsite"><img src="http://lh5.ggpht.com/_9lXPZ1u4Q98/TG-ptsILloI/AAAAAAAADeM/V8pi6FgFYMs/s600/20100705_00195_theOlgas.jpg" /></a></td></tr><tr><td style="font-family:arial,sans-serif; font-size:11px; text-align:right">From <a href="http://picasaweb.google.com/spacey1/ADVRiderRideReport?feat=embedwebsite">ADV Rider Ride Report</a></td></tr></table>

    Left compulsory offering to the desert gods > rear mudguard broke off due to corrugations on track past Docker River.

    <table style="width:auto;"><tr><td><a href="http://picasaweb.google.com.au/lh/photo/I4m03vwMF2EbXqdVwOJJNg?feat=embedwebsite"><img src="http://lh4.ggpht.com/_9lXPZ1u4Q98/TIJh8_CiguI/AAAAAAAADjs/R1giZMtDD_M/s600/20100705_00196_theOlgas.jpg" /></a></td></tr><tr><td style="font-family:arial,sans-serif; font-size:11px; text-align:right">From <a href="http://picasaweb.google.com.au/spacey1/ADVRiderRideReport?feat=embedwebsite">ADV Rider Ride Report</a></td></tr></table>

    <table style="width:auto;"><tr><td><a href="http://picasaweb.google.com.au/lh/photo/XIpRMi2R7uXMzMT9qeY-lg?feat=embedwebsite"><img src="http://lh5.ggpht.com/_9lXPZ1u4Q98/TIJiEkjwgYI/AAAAAAAADjw/cFssqOBoSpI/s600/20100705_00199_theOlgas_42504km.jpg" /></a></td></tr><tr><td style="font-family:arial,sans-serif; font-size:11px; text-align:right">From <a href="http://picasaweb.google.com.au/spacey1/ADVRiderRideReport?feat=embedwebsite">ADV Rider Ride Report</a></td></tr></table>
    Speedometer reading at the Olgas was 42,504 kilometres. The bike had it's 40,000 kilometre service on the day prior to departure. Do the sums, that means that Perth to the Olgas = circa 2,500 kilometres.

    Ayrs Rock closed due to possibility of rain and high winds.

    July 6: Day 6 - Yulara to Alice Springs

    Coldest daytime temperature on record in Alice - 6 degrees C maximum during day and did I mention bucketing down with rain, the Todd River was overflowing all causeways in Alice. 40 mm of rain on previous night.

    <table style="width:auto;"><tr><td><a href="http://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/4luRusZCcs08YTTuB2YyAA?feat=embedwebsite"><img src="http://lh6.ggpht.com/_9lXPZ1u4Q98/TG_jxBT65DI/AAAAAAAADeo/6_X1PiCJwiE/s600/weatherNorthernTerritory_210107.jpg" /></a></td></tr><tr><td style="font-family:arial,sans-serif; font-size:11px; text-align:right">From <a href="http://picasaweb.google.com/spacey1/ADVRiderRideReport?feat=embedwebsite">ADV Rider Ride Report</a></td></tr></table>

    July 7: Day 7 - Alice Springs to Tennant Creek

    Cold and rainy but Northern Territory speed limit is 130 kph :) Amazed by the lushness of the interior of Australia, green trees everywhere. Stay in a dump of a caravan park. Expensive, dirty, broken, old and muddy to boot.

    July 8: Day 8 - Tennant Creek to Mataranka

    Starts cold and rainy. Meet 4 guys on Harleys. Ride with them to Noonamah Pub, Darwin. Great fun. Lots of video on the GoPro Hero. Passing 50 metre road trains in a group of 5. Magically, the rain, the cold and the clouds disappeared about Renner Springs. We pulled into a road house, laid on the lawn in the sun and stripped off the cold and rain gear... heavenly :)
    Stayed the night at Mataranka Hot Springs. Soaked our cold weary bones and drank copious quantities of cold beer and ate barramundi fish.

    July 9: Day 9 - Mataranka to Darwin

    An early morning soak in the hot springs set us up for an easy day to Darwin. Lots of fun on the Stuart Highway, passing road trains, videoing the group with the GoPro Hero on my Chesty. Had the luxury of time on our side therefore we never passed a pub without a stop. The essential Daly River Pub, Adelaide River Pub, and the other northern must-drink-at pub, the Noonamah. Wished my fellow riders well from here and moved on to Darwin. Mitas E-10 rear worn out - could possibly last another 964km back to the Three Ways, but then what?

    July 10: Day 10,11,12,13,14,15 - Darwin

    AliCross in Winnellie fitted a new rear Anakee2. A friend was flying up from Perth and carried the tyre up to Darwin on Virgin. City price and no delivery fee. AliCross fitted and balanced it for $27. Great service and advice about tyre pressures. Set the tyre at 2.9 bars for full load and speed. However, AliCross do carry a stock of GS tyres as the demand is good. Richard (manager/mechanic/owner) was telling me a story of 6 GSer's coming in, in one hit, for tyre changes. Book in advance if your group is going for that. It is Darwin after all.

    <table style="width:auto;"><tr><td><a href="http://picasaweb.google.com.au/lh/photo/mbBClWa9r7hejnsM1f4O4g?feat=embedwebsite"><img src="http://lh5.ggpht.com/_9lXPZ1u4Q98/TGJgWLk2JjI/AAAAAAAADVE/oQWZdSw3EJk/s600/mitasE10_tyreWear4400kmTotal.jpg" /></a></td></tr><tr><td style="font-family:arial,sans-serif; font-size:11px; text-align:right">From <a href="http://picasaweb.google.com.au/spacey1/ADVRiderRideReport?feat=embedwebsite">ADV Rider Ride Report</a></td></tr></table>
    Whilst in Darwin, there is much to see and do... however no swimming in the Arafura Sea or any local rivers and creeks... Saltwater crocodiles are infamous for their appetite for humans. The crocodile population was almost wiped out in former times, but they are back with a vengeance. A visit to the Darwin Museum will set you on the right track. There is a monster stuffed example here which is monster enough to keep one away from the water.

    On the plus side, Darwin has much to offer. My other half flew up to Darwin to share a few balmy winter days. Balmy meaning 30 degrees :) I can highly recommend side trips to Litchfield National Park (300 km round trip), Buley Rockholes, Edith Falls, and Katherine Gorge (300km south). The food is a real treat due to the influx of migrants and proximity to Asia. Since I was here in the late 80's, much has changed. The military presence is high. We stayed with friends in the military and were honored to be able to attend the funeral of one of our Aussie warriors who was killed in action in Afghanistan.

    <table style="width:auto;"><tr><td><a href="http://picasaweb.google.com.au/lh/photo/gQv7Ixt7-5be-LgktTLtzg?feat=embedwebsite"><img src="http://lh4.ggpht.com/_9lXPZ1u4Q98/TIJBCnXvzHI/AAAAAAAADgw/4E8C8FPIJlk/s600/20100714_edithFalls01.jpg" /></a></td></tr><tr><td style="font-family:arial,sans-serif; font-size:11px; text-align:right">From <a href="http://picasaweb.google.com.au/spacey1/ADVRiderRideReport?feat=embedwebsite">ADV Rider Ride Report</a></td></tr></table>
    One of the many reason folks come to the Northern Territory is the plethora of magical swimming holes like Edith Falls. Nearly 300 kilometres inland and generally believed to be 'croc-free'. Not far north of Katherine, it is really worth the short ride in.

    July 16: Day 16 - Darwin to Three Ways Roadhouse

    Head down, bum up, need to make Three Ways. Another cold day of pushing into a blasting head wind at speed. Kicks the fuel consumption over 7.4 km/litre. 964 kilometres. Easy to make distance though when the speed limit is 130 kph :)

    July 17: Day 17 - Three Ways Roadhouse to Cloncurry

    Another cold day of pushing into a blasting head wind. Kicks the fuel consumption over 7 km / litre

    July 18: Day 18 - Cloncurry to Karumba

    Another day of pushing into a blasting head wind. Kicks the fuel consumption over 7 km / litre. Is the head wind ever going away??

    <table style="width:auto;"><tr><td><a href="http://picasaweb.google.com.au/lh/photo/S4ruqsT74J-JydjeagZgtg?feat=embedwebsite"><img src="http://lh4.ggpht.com/_9lXPZ1u4Q98/TIJjdDctAmI/AAAAAAAADkI/i33OIZ4GtlQ/s600/20100719_karumbaPointSunset_01.jpg" /></a></td></tr><tr><td style="font-family:arial,sans-serif; font-size:11px; text-align:right">From <a href="http://picasaweb.google.com.au/spacey1/ADVRiderRideReport?feat=embedwebsite">ADV Rider Ride Report</a></td></tr></table>
    Arrived in Karumba early afternoon. Rode out to Karumba Point to see the Gulf of Carpentaria and was welcomed by the Sunset Tavern. I can attest to the rumours that the Sunset Tavern, Karumba Point is famous for fresh seafoods, Gulf prawns, barrimundi, mud crabs. It is a perfect location to spend an afternoon / evening tasting the cold beer and viewing the sunset it is named after, all from a comfy chair in the bar. Or if you wish, step closer to the beach and fight for a table from the plethora of grey nomads who also love this spot.

    <table style="width:auto;"><tr><td><a href="http://picasaweb.google.com.au/lh/photo/IHU5xIbgjz_w6UeZl5z81g?feat=embedwebsite"><img src="http://lh6.ggpht.com/_9lXPZ1u4Q98/TIJjP-M8lBI/AAAAAAAADkE/B_ZruZpp3FM/s600/20100719_karumbaPointSunset_02.jpg" /></a></td></tr><tr><td style="font-family:arial,sans-serif; font-size:11px; text-align:right">From <a href="http://picasaweb.google.com.au/spacey1/ADVRiderRideReport?feat=embedwebsite">ADV Rider Ride Report</a></td></tr></table>

    July 19: Day 19 - Karumba to Winton

    Another cold day of pushing into a blasting head wind. Kicks the fuel consumption over 7 km / litre. And did I mention locusts, swarms of the mutha's, my boots are covered, the inside of the screen has locust goop, go figure? Very alert for the ever present kangaroo threat. They just stand up in the long grass on either side of the road, panic, then jump in whichever direction they are pointing, shudder, shudder...

    July 20: Day 20 - Australian Age of Dinosaurs - Winton

    July 21: Day 21 - Winton to Longreach

    Stopped to top up fuel for a big day and noticed fluid dripping on the ground. Not oil thankfully, but brake fluid. Went straight to CentreTune Motorcycles who sourced the problem in a flash, a fractured steel brake pipe on the ABS distribution system. At 10am CentreTune rang Morgan and Wacker, Brisbane who sent a pipe kit overnight on flight to Longreach. (Note: Overnight does not mean overnight in the english sense of the word. Instead it can mean anything from next to 3rd day, so don't ever get your hopes up.) Booked into the Commercial Hotel for the night. $28 for a room, good food, friendly folk, and did I mention good beer :)

    July 22: Day 22 - Longreach

    Cold morning, 14.5 degrees, didn't get much warmer all day, no delivery of pipe kit, not able to trace shipment from Australian Air Express website. Outback Queensland Internet has plug-in LAN internet for $3 per half hour. I discovered later that the Abajaz Motor Inn has free wifi :(
    Used Skype to make all mobile and phone calls (Excellent service when available). Brake pipe kit (covered by warranty) containing 3x brake lines arrive at 3.30pm. The guys at CentreTune go hammer and tongs to get her out of the shop that night. Their labour costs were reasonable and the result of their hard work satisfying. Nothing beats the luxury of pulling on the brake and finding stopping is the result. It's always the way where the none-skilled parts deliverers drag their feet and do things at their leisure and have done for time immemorial. Then the skilled guys (ie. at the workshop) have to pick up the slack and take all the heat. I can highly recommend the guys at CentreTune Longreach. Another warm comfortable night and great inexpensive meal at the Commercial Hotel.

    July 23: Day 23 - Longreach to Bundaberg

    Another cold day, up ready to roll at 7.00am. Locked my keys in the room. No one available to unlock until 8.20am. Very dark. I really need to have a big day. Need 1000 kilometres to get closer to Nambour tonight. Night riding is out due to kangaroos. Top up fuel tank and move out. Another day of pushing into a blasting head wind. Kicks the fuel consumption (over 7 km / litre). Get to Blackwater and need to decide to make Bundaberg or Biloela... Another night in a lonely country pub OR old friends in Bundaberg? As the kangaroo debris on the roadside has all but abated, I choose Bundaberg. Ahh, the greenery, bush, trees, RIVERS (wow). First night ride, but covered in bugs, finally make it to my old stomping grounds in Bundy. A 1004 km day from for the day.

    July 24: Day 24 -

    July 25: Day 25 -

    July 26: Day 26 - Nambour

    Cold and raining, left Nambour on Col's Airport Shuttle. $50 door to door from Nambour to Brisbane Domestic is pretty good value. Uneventful VirginBlue flights, timely too, the best kind, arrived home via Brisbane - Sydney - Perth. The home leg was so bloody hot. I'm sure they cranked up the heat to force us to buy water and beer. Hottest I've been in 26 days. Odometer = 49,100km, 900km to service.

    July 27: Flipping through the BMW Club magazine June edition... Noticed BMW recall on R1200 GSA on issues with brake lines... Will have to chat to Auto Classic and inquire why the recall fix wasn't rectified at the 40k major service prior to leaving. The outcome could have been very different...
    #1
  2. BitesTheDust

    BitesTheDust Been here awhile

    Joined:
    Aug 3, 2008
    Oddometer:
    202
    Location:
    Mission, BC
    :lurk
    #2
  3. ShopBoy

    ShopBoy Adventurer

    Joined:
    Jun 11, 2010
    Oddometer:
    16
    Location:
    Toowoomba, Queenlsand
    Hi
    Hope you get things sorted soon. If you are coming through Toowoomba let me know and I'll shout you lunch at my Takeaway. Travel Safe!!:clap
    #3
  4. mcc66

    mcc66 Been here awhile

    Joined:
    Sep 1, 2007
    Oddometer:
    205
    Location:
    forrestfield, western australia
    :lurk
    mcc66
    Michael
    #4
  5. RobBD

    RobBD Been here awhile

    Joined:
    Sep 13, 2007
    Oddometer:
    431
    Location:
    Perth Australia
    I'll shout you a beer or two when you get back to Perth - let me know!
    #5
  6. spacey1

    spacey1 Spacey

    Joined:
    Apr 11, 2010
    Oddometer:
    15
    Location:
    Perth, Western Australia
    How do I upload images ??? Searched for help, but it is hidden somewhere... Help!
    #6
  7. mitch

    mitch Long timer

    Joined:
    Dec 16, 2002
    Oddometer:
    1,347
    Location:
    Townsville ,Queensland, Australia
    You need a account with https://www.smugmug.com/ don't ask me how, I have no idea:dunno :confused . I don't own a digital camera.
    So where is the bike now still at Longreach ? did the part turn up ?. We await with eager anticipation for the rest of the trip.
    #7
  8. spacey1

    spacey1 Spacey

    Joined:
    Apr 11, 2010
    Oddometer:
    15
    Location:
    Perth, Western Australia
    Thanks Mitch, got it sorted. I linked from Picasa.
    #8
  9. spacey1

    spacey1 Spacey

    Joined:
    Apr 11, 2010
    Oddometer:
    15
    Location:
    Perth, Western Australia
    Greetings Folks,

    More updates to my 'Around Oz - Perth to Nambour Part 1' ride report. Added photos and more detail.

    Cheers
    Spacey
    #9
  10. spacey1

    spacey1 Spacey

    Joined:
    Apr 11, 2010
    Oddometer:
    15
    Location:
    Perth, Western Australia
    Greetings Folks,

    Yep, more 'Round Oz' update on 2010-September-5

    Cheers
    Nev
    #10