Ask your WELDING questions here.

Discussion in 'The Garage' started by KTM640Dakar, Mar 5, 2007.

  1. shinyribs

    shinyribs Thumpers for life

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    Looks like too much heat. Start the arc and let the puddle grow slowly. Be patient and don't rush it. That thin of a wall tubing being welded together via butt splice is something you wouldn't really ever do outside of just practicing, as you'd need a slug to maintain any really sort of structural usefulness, so I wouldn't stress over it too much. More of an learning exercise than building a real-life skill. I don't mean that to sound rude. It's good to practice on difficult joints to get your confidence up.

    Heat it up slow and get some filler in there pretty soon to bridge the gap that will open up as soon as the edges start to puddle. As flat as your other practice bead is, I'd say there was a lot of heat involved in that weld. Very nice looking bead! :thumb But it does look a little overly hot. With that in mind, it's possible you're coming in too hot on that tube joint, which is why I mentioned it. Good luck!
  2. YesRush

    YesRush Long timer

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    First time welding al .Drug gun on rough plywood on bottom 2 beads.Have to figure out something for my hand to slide on for long beads or do it free hand?I need to weld a support strut on a toolbox lid.By time I got to top of practice I thought I could just do it.:dunnoNo I’m not ready..Man it’s brighter than welding steel.
    [​IMG]
  3. Hertz13

    Hertz13 Been here awhile Supporter

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    You need to use filler when tacking with aluminum. It does t flow together like steel or stainless. You have to make it by adding filler.
  4. Zahnarzt

    Zahnarzt Crashes Much

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    Thanks for the help.

    Machine is a Primeweld 225X running on 220V

    I did realize I had my start amps at 20. It will go down to 10A indicated.

    I have 1/16 4043 rod, but was not using any rod to tack. My lack of knowledge...

    I'll keep practicing with different settings and a smaller Tungsten... It's half the fun.
  5. Hertz13

    Hertz13 Been here awhile Supporter

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    It’s pretty difficult to tack a T or butt joint (what you have in the photo) without adding filler, if you don’t have an ultra tight fit it’s pretty much impossible. The edges melt away from each other and don’t merge into one. If you’ve tacked a similar joint on steel you probably saw the edges almost jump to each other and flow smoothly. This does not happen on aluminum.

    As soon as you see a puddle start on one or both edges start putting filler into it. Adding filler keeps things cool and will help you “bridge” the two edges together.
    Zahnarzt likes this.
  6. YesRush

    YesRush Long timer

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    The toolbox lid supports have 5 welds per side that didn’t hold.Use longer beads or better welds.Hard to believe this box has a lifetime (imaginary) warranty with bad welds.
    [​IMG]
  7. Dagofast

    Dagofast Full giggety ahead.

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    Not strictly a welding question per say, but can anyone chime in with some wisdom on plasma cutters? I've though about picking one up to help with fabricating different projects. I can sever metal using a cutting torch, but due to my poor skills, it isn't very accurate and it certainly ain't pretty. I don't need to cut really thick stuff. Mostly 1/8 to 1/4 with maybe some 3/8 at the top end.

    Although I have Blue and Red welders, I'm now retired and don't necessarily want to spend that kind of coin on a plasma cutter. What is the opinion on a smaller 'Merican brand like Forney? They seem to have a few local dealers here where I now live. Or of the multitudes of the imports you see on Fleabay and Amazon, are any particular brands worth a crap?

    I have plenty of dry compressed air so I wouldn't need one with an onboard compressor. I have 120V and 240V available. Can you also give me and idea of what to expect with the cost of consumables?
  8. David R

    David R I been called a Nut Job..

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    You are wasting your time trying to weld aluminum wiht out filler.

    Here is a hint. To weld a soda can use FAT filler and put the heat to the filler.

    I cannot tack aluminum with out filler. It will not flow together.

    In my opnion, there is miminal use for 1/16" filler. It melts before it even gets to the joint.

    We use mostly 3/32 in our shop. 20 amp to start with is OK, but if you are using your pedal, just ramp up until you have a puddle and dip your filler. Then dip again. Aluminum goes fast when everything is right.

    I used to use acetone, but caught a few things on fire, Like the knob on my positioner. I don't keep acetone any near my welding area.

    Once you even touch the tungsten to aluminum, its contaminated. It then makes for an unfocused arc and the heat goes everywhere making an effin mess.
    So if its contaminated, resharpen or get another and start again. I keep a large supplyt of tugsten on hand. Sharpen the whole bunch once a week.

    David
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  9. Hertz13

    Hertz13 Been here awhile Supporter

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    1/16” aluminum filler rods have their place but yes, 3/32 is much more versatile and easier to use for beginners.
    Zahnarzt likes this.
  10. Zahnarzt

    Zahnarzt Crashes Much

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    20190903_194429.jpg

    First go with more filler.
    Stabilized the pieces and it worked out ok.

    20190903_194602.jpg

    Second go.

    Thoughts?
  11. David R

    David R I been called a Nut Job..

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    Looks good. Pictures can be deceiving. Looks like the bead on the near side flat is not wetted out, but I could be wrong. I see white on the aluminum on the flat on the far side, That is good. Its the cleaning.

    If this is your second attempt, I would call it Excellent.
    When ending welds, build a tit. It will shrink when it cools. If you don't , it leaves a dent that can start a crack, Just add one more dab of filler without moving ahead.

    David
  12. YesRush

    YesRush Long timer

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    Looking for a good supplier.Welding Direct is 6-8 weeks for wire and tips.There prices seem good but 2 months out.
  13. Hertz13

    Hertz13 Been here awhile Supporter

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    Not sure what exactly you’re looking for but give cyberweld.com a try.
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  14. ADV8

    ADV8 Long timer

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    From nearly 2 months ago, thanks for the recommendations, I ended up using 309L after grinding the ends of the two Mallory metal slugs.
    This was for balancing after adding a 949cc kit to a Moto Guzzi where the pistons were heavier than the original 850cc items.
    At some 35 grams it would have been this or drastic lightning of the pistons or connecting rods big ends.

    On a side note, if you ever need to drill through something that is crazy hard, look up ARTU USA.

    http://www.artu.com/

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  15. JGNC

    JGNC Long timer Supporter

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    Gentlemen, what could cause this porosity? 3/16 material cleaned up with a wire brush, 7018 Lincoln rod with a Lincoln AC225 at 135 amps.

    20190920_163334.jpg

    I ended the weld prematurely.
  16. Hertz13

    Hertz13 Been here awhile Supporter

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    How old is your 7018 and how was it stored? The flux on 7018 will pick up moisture from the air and it is also more easily affected (compared to other stick electrodes like 6010) by dust, dirt and other contamination on the rod.

    if it was a brand new, just unsealed package of 7018 then you possibly held too long of an arc length.

    this all assumes your material was not the cause of the porosity. Try grinding to a shiny finish rather than just wire brushing.
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  17. JGNC

    JGNC Long timer Supporter

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    The 7018 is fairly new stored in the box, in a cabinet in my garage in a dry climate. Would those plastic tubes be better with some silica gel packs in there?

    I'll stop being lazy and clean the metal better.

    Thanks for the reply.
  18. Hertz13

    Hertz13 Been here awhile Supporter

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    better than nothing. Best to take them in and warm them up in the oven at about 300 for an hour or so. Your wife will definitely understand when you tell her that’s what it takes to lay down killer beads.
  19. David R

    David R I been called a Nut Job..

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    Too long of an arc. What size rod, brand? How thick is the plate and how many amps?

    David
  20. JGNC

    JGNC Long timer Supporter

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    1/8" Lincoln 7018, Lincoln AC225 welder at 135 amps and 3/16" plate.

    Could I just heat some electrodes with a propane torch when I'm just screwing around?