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Discussion in 'The Garage' started by KTM640Dakar, Mar 5, 2007.
You will get better results with DC. Settings are good.
It's an AC only machine.
I was curious about using 7018 with AC. Although doable, there's a 7018-AC rod available.
"Thanks arcdawg, today I bought 8lbs of E7018-AC made by ESAB. I was amazed at the diference in the quality of the weld and they worked even better after I had heated them some."
Also saw this:
"7018's work best when warmed, it removes the moisture content from the rod coating. Most certifications done with the 7018's require the rod to be 180 degrees before welding. The reason is that the coating on the rods absorbs moisture quickly in fact a 7018 will absorb 80% of it's capability within the first 24 hours."
From here: (first listing below videos)
Lincoln 7018 Excaliber or 7018 AC (ala Home Depot)?
7018AC from HD. So far to me it's the easiest to use but I end up with porosity sometimes.
I bought a welding table on the cheap. Just needs assembly so easy peasy right?
Legs are 3”x3”x.250” so they’re pretty hefty. Top is 1/2”.
Machine is a Miller Dialarc 250 with HF. I have the Tig stuff but I think the pedal is not turning off the argon postflow so I was just going to stick weld it. Also my tig torch is air cooled so it may be to much for it. I would assume all the stick welding settings are fine on this machine. It’s a hefty bitch.
What rod and settings should I be looking at? I have a couple of test pieces to try before diving in.
No, not directly. Water is a byproduct of combustion so you'd just drive steam into the flux. Either heat them indirectly with the torch (eg, put the rods in a pipe and heat the pipe) or use electric heat.
What about foil?
Every fully kitted shop needs a toaster oven right? How else do you heat up the hot pockets?
I have an oven for 7018. I don't always use it. We have come to buying rods in sealed 10 lb containers. Pop the top and do the job. Its good for 4 hours. I still use the rod weeks or months after the can has been open with out the oven. I almost never get porosity. If I do, its from other problems like too long of an arc, too much heat or improper angle, like fore hand that would bury the flux in the weld.
If the flux does not fall off, and the rod is not rusted, it will still weld on regular settings (DC) with no real problems except hard starting if your machine does not have a hot start setting.
The oven is 300*f and the rod needs to be in overnight for full effect.
My dad welded all his life and never had an oven.
I like it for structural or things like hitch plate on the back of a truck. We used to buy 50 lb boxes of rod, but now some of it comes in cardboard and says dry it before using it. This sucks. So we buy 10 lb steel continers. Pass the savings on to the customer. I always use Lincoln, but you do not have to. A dry rod fresh out of the oven or new steel container can be pushed righ in to the weld and will not go out. It leaves a nice bead with the slag following behind. Licoln rod can be run a few amps more than other brands.
Tozzi says "A rod right out of the oven is like a fresh buscuit"
That oven also works as a burrito warmer.
Who was it that said............... weldor, high walker, sweet talker, with the right rod to fix everything even a broken heart.
Sounds like I just need more and more practice. I have plenty of 3/16" stock to play with.
Last month while visiting family my uncle let me play with his TIG welder for a little while. Thinking about buying the Alpha ACDC TIG/stick machine unless I find a good deal on a used machine locally. If I'm going to spend the money on a 3rd welder I want ACDC TIG and it must stick weld well enough.
Any suggestions? No budget really, I'll just save up what I have to.
I’ve been on jobs where the inspector wouldn’t even let you tack if the rod wasn’t warm to the touch. We had to keep a 5 pound heater in the man lift with us, and take it to the shop at night and leave it plugged in.
On other jobs it would be raining so hard I would have to build a water diverter to keep the water off the weld because the stem was fogging up my lense.
If it will do AC/DC TIG, it will stick weld, they're both constant current processes - all you'll need is cables. MIG is constant voltage and normally won't stick weld. Some newer (?) welders are designed with both.
Miller 375 X-Treme
Help please. Does MIG with gas penetrate and run hotter , or does Flux core run hotter and deeper?
Flux core runs a little hotter and a little more penetraton. The cost is spatter.
Don't forget that you an use the peddle for heat control when stick welding with your TIG machine!
Yes, you can and I have. As a hobby weldor, I need (and use) every 'crutch' at my disposal.