Ask your WELDING questions here.

Discussion in 'The Garage' started by KTM640Dakar, Mar 5, 2007.

  1. ER70S-2

    ER70S-2 Long timer

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    I would have thought it was the top left switch, showing the electrode clamp or TIG torch. :scratch There might be something down in the Menu somewhere too, I have no familiarity with the new electronic welders. :hmmmmm
  2. JGNC

    JGNC Long timer Supporter

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    Flipping it did nothing. Oh well, it stick welds pretty good I guess. I was going back and forth with 7018AC and 6013 with my AC225. The new one runs the 6013s waaaaaaaay better on DCEP than that Lincoln on AC. I couldn't tell a difference with the 7018AC. Maybe those aren't suppose to be used with DC?
  3. Hertz13

    Hertz13 Been here awhile Supporter

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    All machines are different and a lot of them you need to unplug the foot pedal to disable it.
    JGNC likes this.
  4. ER70S-2

    ER70S-2 Long timer

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    Thanks :beer
  5. David R

    David R I been called a Nut Job..

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    When you plug in the foot pedal, the light should come on. This means its remote controlled. The amps set on the knob will be max with the foot pedal when its plugged in.

    Try the 6013 on Electrode Negative. It works better on thin sheet that way.

    David
  6. invicta1

    invicta1 Long timer

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    Welding question: Snapped the frame of my ATV mounted plow (tube frame). Weldable?
  7. DSM8

    DSM8 Where fun goes to die....

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    Give us a picture
    You can slug the inside between the breaks to make repair bulletproof
    NEPA 450x likes this.
  8. David R

    David R I been called a Nut Job..

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    Yes!
  9. invicta1

    invicta1 Long timer

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    Here it is. Any shop with a welder? Unfortunately I'm off out of country for a bit, hope it doesn't snow while I'm away. (Supposed to x2 next even though nice today and IMG_20191026_154927376_HDR.jpg I'm off to sample bats tonight, but assume early snow wont be much this early in season...fam. may be hosed if much of it). No plow, no escape with significant snow.

    IMG_20191026_154910713_HDR.jpg

    Attached Files:

  10. JimVonBaden

    JimVonBaden "Cool" Aid! Supporter

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    I'm not a welder by trade, and nowhere near the experience of many here, but in addition to the internal slug, I would add gusset plates on both sides of the frame, and on both tubes across the T joint.
  11. YesRush

    YesRush Long timer

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    Cut that bend off .Find pipe to go in it and make a bend like the other side.Unbolt the old bend piece to insert pipe.Drill it and bolt it till you find a welder.
    MacGyver 101
    2old2Bbold likes this.
  12. David R

    David R I been called a Nut Job..

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    Did that break off or is it rusted? Not much steel there to weld to. It needs strength added like 3 strips of metal across the entire joint or plates as JVB said.

    Peraps the muffler clamp was loose and it fatigued from flex.

    David
  13. CodyY

    CodyY ADVenture Capitalist

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    I'm quoting a handrail job for a customer, around linear 500ft, I've never quoted one this big as a fabricator, so a little direction would be nice if anybody has any insight.

    ADA 1.5" with top and bottom rails and 1"pickets on 4". Removal and replacing with 1.25 sch 40 pipe

    I just got it, and bid date is real soon. I'm going to try to figure it up as quickly as possible but does anybody have a rough per-ft number on handrail for comparison?

    TX, non-union, excluding paint, installed.
    I'm headed over there today to get my own notes and lengths. SmartSelect_20191115-091247_ConstructConnect%20for%20Contractors.jpg SmartSelect_20191115-091301_ConstructConnect%20for%20Contractors.jpg SmartSelect_20191115-091710_Chrome.jpg SmartSelect_20191115-091656_Chrome.jpg SmartSelect_20191115-091646_Chrome.jpg SmartSelect_20191115-091635_Chrome.jpg
  14. eddyturn

    eddyturn Eternal Wannabe Supporter

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    2 mil easy.
  15. Bigeyedfish

    Bigeyedfish Adventurer

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    I can't help with the estimate but I have a suggestion. We almost always used 1/2" bar stock for pickets. 1" seems awfully excessive and not very visually appealing. I would call and double check that if I was in your shoes. That could make a pretty big difference to your cost.
  16. HOTPASS

    HOTPASS F*ck cancer.

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    Obviously everything is regional, and even different GC relations effect bids, but when I was doing tons of ADA/rail work We often charged around $150 a foot and up depending on complexity. That’s for pipe or 1.5 square guardrail, painted and bolted only. Especially for guardrails. Even with a good jig it takes for damn ever to hammer all that shit out.

    Attachment methods factor in a lot as well. If they want cheap, they get baseplates and redheads. If they want it core drilled and grouted, well... that’s gonna bump it up.

    Prefab and powdercoat or built on site and painted? That’s a huge difference in cost and scheduling.

    Is the rail design specced out or is it verbal?

    F89BADCF-39A4-47D9-876A-B6572A5D3486.jpeg
  17. CodyY

    CodyY ADVenture Capitalist

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    They want round and the sections with slope over 1:12 require a handrail, so 3 tube.

    I think it's more than I can handle alone right now. Even though it's a relatively small project.

    I need to prob stick to custom onesie twosie things and small production runs.
  18. vtwin

    vtwin Air cooled runnin' mon

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    I need some advice. I'm losing confidence in my troublesome Hobart 135 and regretting selling off my little Lincoln 100. I heard the Hobart 140 is a much better machine, but at nearly $500 it's breaking the bank. Northern Tool list the Lincoln 140 #2185 just over $330, but the Klutch 140 is under $300 and an inverter. I have been considering an inverter as it needs less power to put out the same and with the old circuit I have in the garage, may be a good thing. I know nothing, but I need a welder for sheet metal I'm doing on the Studebaker. Are the Everlast, Forney Longevitys any good? Any suggestions?
  19. JGNC

    JGNC Long timer Supporter

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    Where do you see a Lincoln 140 for $330? I paid way more for that for mine and I've been trying to sell it for a few weeks now.
  20. HOTPASS

    HOTPASS F*ck cancer.

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    If you can work your numbers right it’s really not bad. I’ve done hundreds and hundreds of linear feet of hand and guard rail with only one other person. That second set of hands really helps, but I’ve done a lot of curved crazy rail by myself on steep slopes. That shit sucks with a kink bender and a fluxcore but it’s doable. Don’t need a skilled 2nd hands, borrow a friend for a day to help you get in with a GC.

    The hardest part is getting your picket angle correct on stair stringers if you’re building off site. Most stairs are fucked and a degree or two either way is noticeable to an asshole GC.

    Once you do some rail jobs you’ll get it down pat. There’s some really good money in them and it’s get in and get out work. Most welders (myself included) hate doing it, so there’s always a market.

    Most supply shops have sweet little cope jigs. Pre bought 90s are a massive time saver and look really nice over angles. If you have a bender I used to pre make all my P post(you can use 90s too but it’s a lot of grinding). (End post with Ada 12” loop cut long) after getting those set it really helps giving you a base to work from.

    Bidding on MISC metals and building a good report with even one or two GCs can provide you with a ton of small job work as there’s always two schools of thought. Pay a large metal crew with lots of overhead and big money to get it done quick, or pay a smaller amount for a tiny shop to get it done slower. Most go for B.

    Hope that helps. Good luck! It’s easier then you think.
    CodyY and JimVonBaden like this.