aussie Tiger 800 xc thread

I've had the issue with the 30amp fuse not long after I bought the bike. I replaced the easily corroding alloy fuse with a marine SS 30amp blade fuse. It showed no issues on removal this time.
I've heard of the Imobilizer not recognizing the key if the antenna gets too hot. Being a stinker of a day, it could seem plausible, but I was hoping someone had seen similar symptoms in such a failure before. No point asking the rest of the world Tiger 800 owners, because I really don't think they'd see heat like we experience such as today, which I'm certain is a factor.
The more I consider the simplest answer to the situation, the more I think heat has stressed the battery into physically failing. The heat off the engine around the battery on a hot day like this must be quite phenomenal. I was riding it like an old granny in the heat the few kilometres from my mates place to the supermarket, instead of flogging the hell out of it like I usually do. I shouldn't have been nice to the evil shitbox. That's my failing.

I've had pretty much the exact same symptoms but it was due to water in the bottom of the battery box. ie blocked drain hole. Gave it a few tries and finally all dead. Then l went hunting and found the lake and the main fuse. Drained lake and replaced fuse, all good.

I never wash the bike so water in that area only really happens from riding in the rain, which hasn't happened for at least 12 months. I did find a few lumps of something in the bottom of the battery compartment. Not sure what it was. Possibly animal or mineral. I think the first owner, who came from the great swamplands of Victoria may have drowned it in a creek crossing once, as it originally had lots of small pebbles, like fish tank rocks, in the starter solenoid area. When my fuse failed, everything remained lit up on the dash, it just refused to go vroomp with the start button. Fortunately I'd read about that issue here and it was a stress free recovery, which from memory occurred in close proximity to my tool chest anyway.

Good luck then, hope it is sort easily.
We all know how much of a bugger it can be chasing these issues.

A 2013 with original Yuasa battery? I just got 4 years out of a Yuasa battery. Would crank all day but not fire, tested relays etc etc
New Yuasa battery battery and all returned to normal
Grab a new battery and ride the wheels off it

Well, pushed it home tonight just on sunset when the going was a little cooler, but not before giving it one more good try to get it started. Took a LiPo jump pack and a digital multi-meter with me. When I got back to the bike the immobilizer light was flashing strongly on the dashboard. Popped the seats, checked the battery - 12.5 volts with the key off. Key on, dropped to 10.4V, dash lit, pump primed, tacho danced, even the headlights lit and stayed on, so all looking very promising. Thumb the starter, nothing happens and everything dropped out again. Check battery - 0.00 volts. Check again a minute later - 10.5 and climbing. Add jump pack, try again - same result, still 10.5 volts but no increase as could be expected. Dash fails to activate, no sounds, no lights except dull ABS light - WTF??!! Try as we might, even with a fully charged jump pack, the bike was dead. So push it home in the heat of the evening.
After dinner and recovery beers, I pulled the battery from the bike, threw it on the 1.6 amp bike charger - green fully charged light comes on immediately charge leads are fitted to battery posts, so the battery must be at at least 12.5 resting volts. Turn charger on at power point, no change to red charging light - odd, maybe the battery is actually full and the bike electrics are at fault. So grab the battery load tester from the cupboard, hook it up - sure enough 12.5 volts. Hit the load coil activator switch and the voltage needle plummets instantly to 0.00 volts. Switch load off, needle whips back up to 10.5 volts. So the battery has had some weird sort of failure. I'll grab a decent new battery in the morning and hopefully it'll confirm it's just a battery failure, not the bike.

Sounds like you will be heading off to Kangaroo Island with the peace of mind of a new battery.
Fingers crossed.

I hope so. I tried to find the best battery value I could locally. Ended up finding an SSB XR series Dry Cell AGM RTX14-BS. It has 290 cca and is completely spill proof. It would seem the old battery, a YTX16-BS, isn't the original battery but rather a taller version of the recommended YTX14-BS with 2 Ah extra reserve capacity, which I don't really need. And the 16 size couldn't be found locally - seems to be a rarely required battery so not store stocked. The SSB RTX14-BS cost me $125, which isn't too bad compared to the $234 or so a local BatteryWorld store was asking for an equivalent spec Yuasa. I actually had my heart set on a Motobatt battery, but couldn't find a stockist nearby. Everyone seems to have dropped them for some reason. Perhaps performance issues or shelf life problems.

but did it start and work for you with the new battery

Anyone in Brisbane want an original windscreen from a 2017 xrx? Free. pick up only in Brisbane.

It certainly did. She fired up straight away and all was mostly forgiven. It got a little bit of stick for making me push it home. Getting her ready for a little trip around Tassie in a week's time. Time to wire up the driving lights and hardwire the Montana GPS. This'll be my first adventure ride since last January. So looking forward to seeing those twisty roads, forests and lakes again. The Tiger should be perfect for it.

Repremands in 3rd gear nearing red line l found pull the bike out of its lazy ways and remind it whose boss.
Damn it sounds good.

A dud battery can have you imagining your bike has all sorts of electrical problems. You stick a new battery in and it seems like you have a new bike.

glad it solved that for ya

It certainly did because of what it was doing. It's the first time I've ever had a battery do that sort of carry on from perfectly strong. Thank gawd it wasn't the key antenna system failure.

I had the battery on my 660 Tenere die. The RAC Bloke and the Yamaha dealer both tried to convince me there was some major electrical drama with the bike. There wasn’t. Th3 battery was just stuffed. I fitted a new battery and all the problems disappeared as if by magic. I learned a lesson. I carry a multimeter now just to make sure if I have any futur3 issues I can check battery voltage and charging on the road.

Most electrical gremlins can be attributed to battery or leads. Doesn’t matter if it’s moto’s,cars,trucks it is always the first thing to check.

I remember pulling up alongside a mate of mine in the 2014 Safari who thought his day was done when his 690 stopped on the first day. Turned out to be a loose battery terminal. Justified concern with any KTM.

One step closer ...

Projected increase in HP didn't seem to happen ...

In Hobart area after covering a lot of dusty gravel roads down the north, west and south west areas of Tassie. I've run into the dust issue with the throttle stepper motor choking with dust. Bike refuses to idle on it's own. What is the quickest, easiest way to clean it that doesn't require tank and airbox removal, or is this inevitable? I'll ride around the problem for now until I can tackle it tonight, or will that burn the control motor out?