Australia - The four amigos

Discussion in 'Ride Reports - Epic Rides' started by Benji13, Apr 23, 2020.

  1. Benji13

    Benji13 Adventurer

    Joined:
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    Day 29 continued.

    Cliff face at the Head of Bight.
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    Ceduna Jetty
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    1,500kg big white in Streaky Bay
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    Four whale-class adv bikes
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    And giving way to a bigger mass in front.
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    Julia met us in the late afternoon on the Winter Hill lookout with a panoramic view of the town and the Boston Island.
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    That night the bikes were parked here. 2017 1464.JPG

    And after a table spread of seafood prepared by Julia and a few bottles, two amigos slept here. So much fun.
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  2. Benji13

    Benji13 Adventurer

    Joined:
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    Day 30 - 643km

    A huge thank and big hug when we said goodbye to Julia.
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    We will be back for more of this feast and the lovely view from her charming home. A worthy detour.
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    Before we got out of Port Lincoln. Julia led us in her car around the town and marina. If you are brave, you should come here and do the great white shark cage diving.
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    The broken ankle was not healing. No wonder the doctor in Sydney said it was broken.

    We rode on the B100 Lincoln Highway towards Port Augusta. The Eyre Peninsula here was hilly. Remind me of the moors and pikes in northwest England near the Lake District, covered by layers of savannah in the distance.

    When the Lincoln Highway joined back the Eyre Highway, we were approaching Port Augusta. And the Flinders Range appeared on the left.

    After lunch, we rode pass the infamous Snowtown. Just the name is enough to send shivers down the spine of most Aussies. Let the murderers rot in jail. We did not stop there and I felt for those living there with a stigma. The other one I remember was the Port Arthur shooting. That will be a story next time when I talk about our Tassie trip.

    Now let me complain about the GS. And all the big and expensive adv bikes in general.
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    They are just too heavy for real off road. And being a mere mortal I could not afford to slide the 250kg bike (before luggage and rider) around on the dirt hill climb or go on the sandy beach. What is the point of giving us 4 or 6 riding modes including enduro and enduro pro when we were stuck with 92/8 tyres. I had this wet dream in which with a press of a grey button on the right handle bar and the riding mode change from dynamic to enduro on the fly, and magically the Metzler tourance next changed to Continental TKC80. Yes I was dreaming.

    Ok enough ranting. Can some wise engineer find a way to change from road tyres to knobbies without carrying a second set of wheels or visiting another bike tyre shop??

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    In the late afternoon, we arrived at Tanunda of the Barossa Valley.
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    The amigos were happy to stay here for two nights in the Barossa Weintal Hotel. We had a Penfolds private tasting cellar in the hotel!
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    This evening, we dined at the Muscque for the absolutely beautiful food, combination with local wines and the up beat waiters. Perfect.
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    I had booked a small vineyard tour for tomorrow and the broken ankle could ride in the tour bus.
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  3. mrsdnf

    mrsdnf Been here awhile

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    Love the rap up on the GS.
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  4. Benji13

    Benji13 Adventurer

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    Day 31 - 0km

    The weather was great when I woke up. Mark and I walked 1.9km down the main street to have coffee and bakery at the Die Barossa Wurst Haus & Bakery. The black ankle decided to skip. Same as Russ.
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    Before 9am, the Wine Wagon was at the hotel front door. The driver cum guide Timo wearing an awesome Akubra hat greeted us with an aged smile. The wagon was not a huge bus. There were already 6 tourists on the wagon. We were the last pick up. Yes!
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    Hey Timo, all I want is a relaxing day and beautiful wine, ok?! And then I put on my earphones and pumped up the volume.

    Timo said we would visit at least 4 vineyards. We ended up going to 5. The best part is for the biggest vineyards like Penfolds and Jacobs Creek, we were not going to any of them. We stayed with the smaller ones. Great.

    The first one was Peter Lehmann.

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    Timo maintained conversation with and amongst the tour. Not too much. And there was no pressure to buy. We hopped back on and arrived at Yelland & Papps.
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  5. Benji13

    Benji13 Adventurer

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    Day 31 continued.

    Yelland and Papps was a boutique wineyard. The setting was charming.
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    The next one was Gibson Wines.
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    Lunch was at the Monkey Nut with cheese spread and some sandwiches, and a few bottles.
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    Attached Files:

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  6. Benji13

    Benji13 Adventurer

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    The fourth is Kies.
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    The last one was Schild Estate.
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    That night, the amigos slept well for sure.
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  7. mrsdnf

    mrsdnf Been here awhile

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    Loving the story and the pics.
    You didn't have thoughts of leaving anyone at the Monkey Nuts Cafe?
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  8. jowie

    jowie Adventurer

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    Great report so far! You've inspired me to re-ignite the plans I've had for my own lap...
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  9. Benji13

    Benji13 Adventurer

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    Day 32 - 724km

    Wineries to the amigos were like honey to bees. Love it. We will be back for more.

    The amigos had been riding, living and breathing together for more than 4 weeks. Way longer than any trip before this. The most impressive one was not Dr Brown (aka Mark) or Sir Dropalot (yes 4 times). I truly was impressed by Russ. Since the Sandfire Roadhouse empty tank episode, he never ran out again. And he did not get lost again. He was ridiculed on FB by friends and buddies. His Triumph was also mocked by the 3 mighty GS/A's. Well, Russ took all these craps in gracefully. In the last week, he was always ready on the bike at 7am. This was something we could not imagine before. A deserved LIKE to Russ.

    Russ was again leading out of Barossa with those steely eyes, at 7am!
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    The first stop was Adelaide. It's the capital of SA. A nice city itself. Not much traffic. The beach was a stone throw away from the CBD. A very liveable place for many people except the Victorian Premier.

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    We had brekkie at the Adelaide Oval (Stadium like Madison Square Garden less a roof).
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    The sports ground is round. Why? Because the most popular sports are AFL and cricket. Never watched one. OK more reason for you to visit Downunder.
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    Next we left the flat land and climbed up the hilly roads towards Mount Barker and visited Hahndorf. Sounds German right.

    Attached Files:

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  10. Benji13

    Benji13 Adventurer

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    Day 32 continued.

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    Imagine 1830's Prussia, escaping from religious persecution, the Lutherans set sail from today'
    s Germany for a faraway land and settled at the hills behind Adelaide. Living happily ever after. Fortunate.
    And 2020's Xinjiang, muslin Uighurs have nowhere to go but rounded up at the re-education camps. Disastrous.
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    We enjoyed the place so much.
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    The amigos found the best snacks.
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    And Sir found his long lost twin brother.
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    We overstayed in Hahndorf. Then clawed back some time on the Riddoch Highway towards Mount Gambier. Passing the endless vineyards of Penfolds in Coonawarra with the famous terra rossa rich soil under the beautiful sky.

    Later in the day we passed the state border into Victoria, and the many tree plantations near Portland before arriving at the Cally Pub in Warrnambool.
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  11. Benji13

    Benji13 Adventurer

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    So much high hopes for GOR tomorrow. Will they come true??

    At the Cally
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    with the setting sun. Time to get my ass back into the bar.
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  12. RedDogAlberta

    RedDogAlberta High Plains Drifter

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    Continued great stuff. :clap
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  13. Benji13

    Benji13 Adventurer

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    Day 33 - 559km

    This was the penultimate day of the trip. Everything was nice when I woke up. I could finally speak with some authority that I was getting used to the GS. Would I want a GSA instead? Yes for 10% of the time. When you go offroad, the GSA is a better bike. Serious. Not kidding. I could feel the bigger flywheel in the GSA smoothing out the gaps in the boxer twin engine strokes. And the longer suspension. It is that much easier to maintain momentum when the going gets tough in the dirt. Well 10% would not justify sacrificing the other 90%, and losing one of my sons to the human trafficker (just kidding for the last part).

    The highlight today is the Great Ocean Road. One of the best motorbiking road on the planet. A 243km twisty road hugging the Victorian rugged limestone coastline. It was built by the returning WWI soldiers from 1919 to 1932 as the biggest war memorial to the fallen ones. Lest we forget. This was the first time we did the whole stretch.

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  14. Benji13

    Benji13 Adventurer

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    Day 33 continued.

    We travelled 10km from the Cally in Warrnambool to Allansford, the western start of the GOR. The morning air was cool and the road was empty.

    Thumb's up from Doctor Brown when we hit the GOR welcome sign. Russ was still seriously leading. I was still escorting behind Sir. The ankle was now so swollen that he could not zip up the boot or roll down the jean.
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    At the Bay of Martyrs, the view of the Bay of Islands Coast was breath taking.
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    Next is the Grotto in Peterborough. We went down the trail to see the hallowed out cave.
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    When we reached the London Bridge, there were some tourists. Imagine when the connecting rock arch collapsed into the ocean in 1990. The poor Kel and Dave stranded on the outer span... and imagine if only they had a smart phone then, their IG account would have exploded in an hour.
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    After Port Campbell, it was the Razorback.
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  15. swimmer

    swimmer armchair asshole

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    Maybe I missed it, but what was the reason for not getting the bad ankle looked at by a doctor after the incident? It did end up being broken, correct? Just resources/location? I am envisioning making a bad situation worse and subsequent long term consequences by not addressing this early on.

    Great RR.
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  16. Benji13

    Benji13 Adventurer

    Joined:
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    Day 33 continued

    At the 12 Apostles, I felt the magnitude of tourism. This was a reality check after weeks of riding on empty roads. The photos were still amazing. Even though the Mother Nature had taken back 4 of the 12. Wish they had banned the selfie sticks.
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    The GOR followed the Bass Strait very closely and its absolutely beautiful scenery was a magnet to the tourists most of whom took a day trip from the east in Melbourne. The most western they travelled was the 12 Apostles. And they overwhelmed the small town of Apollo Bay and Lorne. It was difficult for us to find a quiet place there to sit down and enjoyed our seafood lunch. Luckily we enjoyed the western GOR in the early morning.

    On the other hand, the GOR suffered from the fact that it was mostly narrow with few opportunities for safe overtaking once you got to the tight stuffs. And the low speed limit and road works in many parts. And there was a lot of traffic. I think many poor cars and MPV's were driven by tourists from a particular Asian country, since the traffic light signs had translation into simplified Chinese characters which said "when RED, you need to blxxdy STOP!"

    To me, the GOR was a little overrated. Perhaps it would be much more enjoyable during the Wuhan virus lockdown. Make sure you do it before they resume the international flights.

    Sir resting on a bench.
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    The amigos were still happy to finish the GOR the best we could.
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    And Russ was busy answering the tourists.
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    When we had escaped from the curious foreigners, we jumped on the bikes and rode in the heat through Geelong and outside of Melbourne and sprinted to our home away from home Delatite Hotel in Mansfield.
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  17. mrsdnf

    mrsdnf Been here awhile

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    Terrific story Benji13. Not sure how sir put up with a broken body part and how you put up with sir and his broken body part.
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  18. Benji13

    Benji13 Adventurer

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    Thanks mate! Personally I felt he had an unbelievable tolerance of pain, and a determined resolution. He earned my respect. Sorry to him for detouring to Port Lincoln.
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  19. Benji13

    Benji13 Adventurer

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    Thanks mate! I really don't know the reason. You are absolutely correct. Even though it was a Sunday in Perth, Sir D could have had an x-ray. I shall ask him on Sunday during the morning ride.

    Doctor Brown did speak to Sir D about an x-ray (good on Mark even though he is not a real doctor, he just looked like Doc in Back to the Future). However nothing happened. I could not speak for the other amigos. Personally I did not want to pile more stress on to Sir D. I am mostly irrational when I am off the bike. That did not help. My wife is rational and that evening she immediately found a few quotes for flying Sir D and shipping the GSA from Perth to Sydney for him. Again nothing happened.

    And you are spot on about possibly getting a worse long term consequence. That did not come to the forefront of this irrational mind at that time. It was not an easy road to recovery and I felt sorry for him for a long time. I am happy to tell you that Sir has fully recovered and even went on to finish a couple of City2Surf charity runs.

    At that moment, when your mate made a call, even a wrong one, I would support his decision and pray for the best.
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  20. mrsdnf

    mrsdnf Been here awhile

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    Its good to hear there was a complete recovery.
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