auxiliary fuse box (GS)

Discussion in 'Airheads' started by hotwheels22, Dec 15, 2016.

  1. hotwheels22

    hotwheels22 formpig.com + motorradRP

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    i'm reading through a couple of GS fuse box threads as i hack through understanding electrical some more.

    i ran across the centex he product which looks good.

    anyone mind helping me with some of the following?

    1. i guess pretty much everything that is in my battery terminals or spliced into wiring goes to a new box? lights (i forget if these are fused actually so have to check), SAE (fused) plug, voltmeter, somethingorother else on there. then i have a little room for heated controllers, clock and/or GPS? i like the idea of all this brimberry in a central location and not splayed around. also if i am correct it will get rid of the posi-connectors

    2. is there some term for the item not being powered so it is not drawing current? for some really dumb reason i got back from a road trip and the pc680 was dead after sitting a couple of weeks which seems not normal.

    3. i'd like to stay stock. is one box better than another? or have a more convenient location to mount?

    4. can i leave a fused accessory fused and just plug it in to the fuse box with an appropriately sized second fuse.

    thanks for any tips. i'd actually like to teach myself low voltage electrical in a more disciplined way if i get a chance.

    - jon
    #1
  2. walkingbear

    walkingbear Lets Play Chicken! Supporter

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    fuse box connected to battery. Trigger wire to headlight or tail light to trigger relay which will power the fuse box.
    Plus all accessories to fuse box and they will not come on until bike is fused powered. No worries about running the battery down.
    On the GS (done 3) unless you have a clock or something running all the time you should never have a PC680 go down in a few weeks.
    You could also put a solar panel (HF) park in a sunny spot and it will charge the battery slowly. Hope this helps!
    #2
  3. WJBertrand

    WJBertrand Ventura Highway

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    I installed a neutrino black box (www.neutrinoblackbox.com). It's handy since it has built in solid state circuit overload breakers, there's no need for additional fuses. You can custom program each circuit for whatever maximum amps is appropriate. Like the centec it is woken up by a signal wire that senses with the key is turned on. You can set your attached accessories to shut off with the ignition signal, stay on for some custom selected time (I keep my GPS on for 10 minutes to cover gas stops) or you can set a circuit to stay on until some minimum voltage lever is reached, essentially and always on option with protection to avoid draining your battery.
    #3
  4. usgser

    usgser Long timer

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    No idea what your current lash-up is regarding WTF you now have connected to your batt terminals? Should just be the stock batt cables and maybe a pigtail for a batt tender. If you're going to run an AUX fuse box. Save it for AUX add-ons. The stock wiring/fuse box is fine for stock OEM stuff. If you've got a bunch of add-ons spliced into your orig harness or scabbed on to the battery, you'll be spending some time sorting your mess out and how to deal with it. I'm big on AUX fuse boxes to run add-on doodads keeping them on dedicated circuits and NOT chopping into the orig wiring.harness. ALL elect crap eventually gets wonky or goes TU. It's MUCH easier to troubleshoot a single dedicated system than the entire bikes wiring system. Centex builds a nice box. I used one years ago and it was fine. Since then I've gone to BlueSeas boxes. IMHO better for bikes. Lotsa folks think very highly of EasternBeaver boxes which sound great but I've never used one. Maybe(?) next time I have a need.
    #4
  5. Uke

    Uke visualist Super Supporter

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    I mounted this to my R100R, spring of last year, hot lead direct to my Odyssey PC 680 (2 X 10ga wire) and grounded to frame (same 2 x 10ga). I filled the space in my battery tray when I added the PC 680 with a scrap of 2 x 8 lumber. I mounted the Aux fuse panel to the 2 x 8 filler.

    https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00QMTAZ1W/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

    Horns power (on relay), Eastern Beaver headlight power (relay switched through power to lights), driving / conspicuity lights and sumptin' else are fused from the Aux fuse block. My Battery Tender leads are also direct to my PC 680. There is also a secondary ground (4 ga) to the joint of the main frame to the sub frame for the battery. Any time the front cover is opened, the ground at the battery is disconnected. I've never removed the vent lug for the ground at the transmission.

    All the in-line fuses (horns, headlight main power, driving light power) were replaced with the fuse panel. Seriously cleaned-up the added wiring. Open fuse locations in the block will eventually power heated clothing, USB phone power, etc. (no clue right now as to the etc). The fuse panel, and the bike's original fuses, are easily accessed via the left side battery cover. I run my GPS through a cig lighter plug adapted to an opposite plug of the Battery Tender pigtail. When using the Tender, the cig lighter plug is disconnected but left in place below the Aux fuse panel.
    #5
  6. hotwheels22

    hotwheels22 formpig.com + motorradRP

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    hi all,

    i'm hoping for a little more help. i'm also hoping to learn a little about low voltage which is part of what i was hoping to do with this bike! maybe someone can eyeball this setup? here is what i have.

    i bought a blue sea fuse box from west marine which i think has a negative bus. i'm planning on installing it with velcro on the plastic insert i fabbed for the back side of the battery box on the r100gs. if i hold it back against the fender it clears the toolbox and seems reasonably accessible. i tried putting this piece of plastic at the front and the sides but at the front it gets hidden under the tank and at the side it blocks the otterbox case that fits in the blank space i picked up with a new battery. not sure if this looks good or if i should install the screws on the top or if i should put the fuses on top.

    i currently have a set of clearwater lights and a volt meter (one end of this is run off the "hot" side of the ignition coil and i guess the other end is run to the negative pole of the battery i think). i plan to add a GPS and USB for an iphone among other things.

    i also have an SAE plug but my understanding on the SAE plug is that i should run this directly to the positive and negative poles of the battery.

    i'm assuming that the negative pole of the battery runs to the ground at the transmission, and from the positive pole of the battery i run the power to the starter and the other to the starter solenoid i think.

    1. can anyone help me on whether this looks like the proper fuse box and how i wire the accessories with this fuse box.
    2. should i put a 30 amp fuse between the negative pole of the battery and the negative bus?
    3. since all my accessories have wires already i am guessing i just need to check the amperage of the accessories and put a slightly higher fuse in line with this accessory?
    4. can i run a second ground from the negative pole of the battery to a spot at the frame where the ICU attaches? if so, do i sand down the frame to bare metal here, add the ground and then paint any remaining bare metal with a clear coat?

    THANKS

    1 IMG_7013.jpg 2 IMG_7014.jpg 3 IMG_7015.jpg 4 IMG_7016.jpg
    #6
  7. hotwheels22

    hotwheels22 formpig.com + motorradRP

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    5 IMG_7017.jpg 6 IMG_7019.jpg
    #7
  8. dcoop

    dcoop Been here awhile Supporter

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    I went with a solid state FuzeBlock like this, but then I tend to overdo it. I put this on a BMW G650GS that I rode around Europe, Asia Minor, and Central Asia. I put all of my auxiliary circuits on the FuzeBlock and left all the original wiring alone. The other plus of a solution like this is that it comes with idiot-proof directions. As evidence of that last statement, I'm an idiot and I did it all myself and experienced no problems with it riding over 20,000 miles. For purposes of the previous statement, I defined "auxiliary circuit" as any circuit that was not installed by the manufacturer. This included a Veypor, road lights, GPS power, heated vest power, and USB ports.

    As always, when making electrical connections on your moto, make the best connection YOU can. I happen to use marine grade crimp connectors with marine grade heat shrink. Others use solder in addition to or instead of crimping. The debate rages fiercely over the best method for electrical connections. You have to read the discussions and make your own considered decision on what you want to do, as well as what you are capable of doing.

    Good luck!
    #8
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  9. hotwheels22

    hotwheels22 formpig.com + motorradRP

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    thanks man. so, while we are discussing idiot proof instructions. well, i guess this thing did not come with any instructions. and i (sort of feeling like the idiot here) am wondering where the connections go. i guess i run some kind of gage from the NEGATIVE POLE of the battery to the NEGATIVE BUS on the fuse block? and then i /stack/ the NEGATIVE leads from the accessories on the negative bus?

    also, power to this fuse block is ALWAYS ON unless i put some kind of relay or something on it? i mean, i want my SAE to be always on so i would run it to the battery.

    what about the voltmeter? i guess i will leave it as it is since it seems fine at the switched (?) location that it is at with the positive lead going to the hot side of the ignition coil?

    what about the auxiliary headlights? i guess if the fuse block is always on i can't forget to turn OFF the auxiliary headlights which is something i don't have to think about now...
    #9
  10. walkingbear

    walkingbear Lets Play Chicken! Supporter

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    if you do it the way you have it .. you gonna risk of draining the swamp ( oh that is trump) the battery. EZ to put in a relay. No hard to learn.
    Trigger for the relay could be your tail light. EZ to get to. Switch on hot and will power your bike when you turn the key on.
    #10
  11. dcoop

    dcoop Been here awhile Supporter

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    What you are holding is a Blue Sea model 5046, which is described in detail here. The wiring diagram is here. To wire this properly, you will run a FUSED (as near to the battery as possible) wire of appropriate gauge from the POSITIVE terminal of the battery to the large lug at the bottom of the block. That will provide power, positive power, to the fuse block. The accessories will be wired to the side lugs, and they will always be on because you are wired directly to the battery. If you want to turn them on separately, there will have to be a switch. If you don't want the block to be powered at all times, you will have to put a switch between the battery and the fuse block.

    To figure out the appropriate size wire from the battery to the fuse block, you have to add up all the amperages that will be served by the block and know the run length (never very far on a motorcycle), and then look it up in a table. I use the BluseSea Circuit Wizard app. Takes the pain away.

    The beauty of the FuzeBlock and similar devices is you can easily configure which circuits are always on, and which are energized only when the ignition is on.

    Finally, although that fuse block you are holding is marine grade, etc., it is really designed to be used in an enclosed environment, like inside a cabinet. I don't believe it is a good choice for use where it can and will be exposed to road spray, etc. Just my two cents.
    #11
  12. dcoop

    dcoop Been here awhile Supporter

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    "i bought a blue sea fuse box from west marine which i think has a negative bus."

    It is NOT a negative bus! All it does is provide power (+) to the power side of your accessory! The red wire from the accessory goes to the side lug, and you will have to attach the black wire of your accessory to an appropriate ground!

    Wanted to make sure you understand that.
    #12
  13. hotwheels22

    hotwheels22 formpig.com + motorradRP

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    ok. thanks. got it.

    so positive from battery (maybe with some kind of relay in between?) goes to the bus and then positive from the accessories goes to the side lugs? then the black wire goes to GROUND (whereas it previously went to the negative pole at the battery and then i guess that goes to a ground.

    is that about right...?

    THANKS
    #13
  14. hotwheels22

    hotwheels22 formpig.com + motorradRP

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    so where is the relay exactly? one lead from the relay goes to tail light and the other to the positive bus on the relay? or i guess the relay has to be between, shoot i'm not sure...
    #14
  15. hotwheels22

    hotwheels22 formpig.com + motorradRP

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    ok. thanks a LOT.

    i'll return the fuse box. i was at west marine returning something and figured i was going to return this one but i took a flier on it.

    so can i put a relay in instead of a switch? any idea what kind, how it needs to be configured or where i would get one?

    i'll look for another fuse box and keep working on it. don't think i want to go solid state on this though it is an attractive looking setup.

    THANKS
    #15
  16. walkingbear

    walkingbear Lets Play Chicken! Supporter

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  17. hotwheels22

    hotwheels22 formpig.com + motorradRP

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    hi WB,

    maybe i need to stop in to radio shack or some electronics supplier. this looks like a horn or starter relay which would slot into a female holder.

    is there some kind of inline relay for this that doesn't require a 'box' or do i need to literally mount such a thing and run the wires (not really sure what wires i run or how to hook it into the fuse box actuall...) into the relay box and over to the starter?

    <edit> sorry, i guess i can google this and try and follow instructions. just not having done it before (and a little light with my electrical knowledge) i am wondering if anyone has done this before or there is a pictorial on the forum. saw some stuff but most were for the 1200 series and none showed an online relay/switch.

    THANKS
    #17
  18. walkingbear

    walkingbear Lets Play Chicken! Supporter

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    http://www.easternbeaver.com/Main/Bike_Specific/VStrom/vstrom.html#pc8

    PC-8 Fuse Panel

    This superb fuse panel is full of all the features every rider has ever wanted and more! Easy to install, well protected, and with 8 mini fuses, one on each output circuit. Includes 8 output grounds too.

    This special VStrom edition of the PC-8 Kit includes everything you will need to install in the tool compartment under the seat. However I do have more mounting options on the PC-8 Page should you want to install in an alternate locationl.

    Read all the details about the PC-8 on the PC-8 Page.

    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    VStrom Edition: The VStrom PC-8 Kit length is 18 inches and the switching lead has connectors that plug right into the bike’s rear brake light switch connector. I have fit one on my VStrom so that you know it will fit your VStrom perfectly. See the installation page for photos of my installation.


    PC-8 with Relay Kit for VStrom $107.95
    #18
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  19. lesman

    lesman Live easy, Brake Hard

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    On my GSPD I ran a Fuzeblock. It has a built in relay . Small foot print. I ran it under my tank. I was also running an Enduralst setup. The regulator was under the right sidecover(?) hence the need for placing it under the tank. EB setup was not available at the time. I ran spots, horn(wolo), dual relay set up for head lights,additional power plugs thru my fuzeblock. Blue Seas with a neg terminals is just too big to run on a GS. I ran Blueseas on my VStrom.
    While you are doing this enhancement. Do the dual relay set up for your headlight. I made my own(I had the parts laying around, wire/relays and male H4 plug). EB setup is excellent. I ran his on my VStrom. Excellent materials/workmanship and nicely priced.
    Reason for dual relay setup. Your headlight will be brighter. It will reduce the strain on your starter switch. I was starting to have problems with my hi/lo switch(sometimes, it would go totally dark for a second switch from low to high. I ride very seldom at night. This was a bit disconcerting.
    (I used 87a to trigger the other relay on my GSPD , on my Vstrom/Quota, the hi/lo switch triggers the second relay.
    #19
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  20. brittrunyon

    brittrunyon 1992 R 100 GS

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    Thanks for you timely thread!
    I'm presently trying to figure out "where" to mount a Fuzeblock on my '92 GS.
    What have you come up with?
    BR
    #20