I am the Craig mentioned in here and I am so glad to have stumbled on this. So many thanks for posting, and your pics are better than the crap ones I took (though that might have been due to the Raki and Vodka, etc...)! We did alternate between staying in nice hotels and sleeping literally in sheep droppings freezing in the mountains (nibbling on sheep nuts cooked over a burning tire) as the pics show. This was incredibly hard work, dirty, but the most fun ever. I remember actually riding into Ceyhan on your bike with the whole drive train slipping, soaked in leaking oil, but got there anyhow. Unbelievable trip! I'm still involved working out in the Caucasus, having just returned from a week out there (my 13th time to Armenia, 14th to Georgia, and 23rd to Azerbaijan I think). Even have a flat in Baku now. Never get tired of that region. Met Thomas out there in Baku in summer 2010 (at an Irish pub of course) when he was planning a 10th anniv trip. That fell thru, but still hoping for another shot at this if he plans something again (as you know, "plan" is a relative thing with Tommy). And my lovely wife (nicked from BP in Azerbaijan!) will be riding along this time.