Beach bumming Mozambique

Discussion in 'Ride Reports - Epic Rides' started by Xpat, Mar 26, 2019.

  1. Critic

    Critic More or less!

    Joined:
    Sep 12, 2005
    Oddometer:
    2,209
    Location:
    West of the Illinois, heart of the state!
    What an enjoyable ride! You travel in my style; that is ride the day with rewards at night.

    Logging was one of the markets I covered as a job in various locations in U.S.A. with different styles of cutting in each location. Clear cutting, which looks like you experienced, results pretty much depends on soil type, terrain and intensity of rain or melting. The area you crossed does not look like a good place for clear cutting, which results in erosion. It always looks ugly, but you can never tell a book by it's cover!
    #21
  2. Xpat

    Xpat Been here awhile Supporter

    Joined:
    Jul 7, 2007
    Oddometer:
    799
    Location:
    Johannesburg, South Africa
    Objective for the day was Zavora beach some 155 km away.


    [​IMG]


    I continued on the tracks I have plotted - they mostly followed the coast just behind the coastal dunes, and was glad to see that they continued to deliver :ricky:


    [​IMG]


    [​IMG]


    [​IMG]


    [​IMG]


    There are plenty of inland laggons like this all along the Moz coast:


    [​IMG]


    [​IMG]


    [​IMG]


    The track run mostly on a little foot paths used by locals and their cattle, crossing the main east west running dirt roads connecting EN1 and coast once in a while:


    [​IMG]


    [​IMG]


    [​IMG]


    The tracks connect little settlement - often housing just one family - dotted with their little fields along the coast:


    [​IMG]


    [​IMG]


    [​IMG]
    #22
    River Rat, forgorin, OldPete and 3 others like this.
  3. Xpat

    Xpat Been here awhile Supporter

    Joined:
    Jul 7, 2007
    Oddometer:
    799
    Location:
    Johannesburg, South Africa
    The whole coastal area from Bilene onwards is one big rolling dune field overgrown by bush, populated by the locals and crisscrossed by numerous footpaths. The more north I went the less used the tracks seemed to be. Often I had to navigate on the little divides of little plots of fields and little footpaths through dense vegetation to get to the next section of the track.


    [​IMG]


    [​IMG]


    [​IMG]


    I often came across this kind of decreipt buildings in the bush and for some reason they gave me heebeegeebees - though much less so on nice sunny day like this. Most of the settlements were empty as people were out tending to their fields or whatever chores they had to do.


    [​IMG]


    [​IMG]


    [​IMG]


    [​IMG]


    [​IMG]


    [​IMG]
    #23
    River Rat, forgorin, Shaggie and 10 others like this.
  4. Xpat

    Xpat Been here awhile Supporter

    Joined:
    Jul 7, 2007
    Oddometer:
    799
    Location:
    Johannesburg, South Africa
    Thanks for following and comments! :thumb
    #24
  5. Cro59

    Cro59 Been here awhile

    Joined:
    Sep 27, 2015
    Oddometer:
    847
    Location:
    Tucson, Arizona
    Looks like an amazing place to ride.
    #25
  6. squadraquota

    squadraquota mostly harmless

    Joined:
    Oct 23, 2007
    Oddometer:
    849
    Location:
    Lowlands
    Really enjoying your RR, thanks for the write-up!

    If with “wet, shrunken balls” you are still brave enough to ride through a mine field, one wonders where your cojones will take you through on a warm sunny day :D
    #26
    Shaggie and Dan Diego like this.
  7. pointerDixie214

    pointerDixie214 Been here awhile

    Joined:
    Jul 24, 2015
    Oddometer:
    423
    Location:
    PA
    Awesome RR.

    Seriously.

    Although--how does one eat only once a day without being hangry? I would have to travel by myself if I did that, because my wife would kill me before 10 am I would be so whiny. lol
    #27
    Dan Diego likes this.
  8. Xpat

    Xpat Been here awhile Supporter

    Joined:
    Jul 7, 2007
    Oddometer:
    799
    Location:
    Johannesburg, South Africa
    And another turquoise lagoon:


    [​IMG]


    [​IMG]


    Most of the day was like riding through a tropical garden (excuse the un-biker like sentiment):


    [​IMG]


    [​IMG]


    [​IMG]


    [​IMG]


    [​IMG]


    [​IMG]


    [​IMG]


    [​IMG]


    [​IMG]


    [​IMG]
    #28
    River Rat, Shaggie, OldPete and 4 others like this.
  9. Xpat

    Xpat Been here awhile Supporter

    Joined:
    Jul 7, 2007
    Oddometer:
    799
    Location:
    Johannesburg, South Africa
    In the track I have plotted at home about 20 km before Zavora I had to divert inland to Inharrime on EN1 to bypass big lagoon sitting in the way. However in one of the stops I have noticed on a german map I had on my smartphone that there could be little bridge across the lagoon at its narrowest point. So when I reached the lagoon I turned right instead of left and took a little footpath to see what is at the other end. And sure enough, there it was - a bridge!


    [​IMG]


    Note the high tech side stand I fixed myself :snorting:

    The bridge looked a bit finicky so I went to investigate on foot. This is what I found:


    [​IMG]


    [​IMG]


    [​IMG]


    [​IMG]


    [​IMG]


    [​IMG]


    Sorry for too many pictured - I got a bit mesmerised by this contraption. It felt dodgy in places, but was able to carry me to the other side (and another probably 10 locals who crossed while I conducted this thorought study). As I'm heavier than the weight on each individual wheel of 500, I argued in my head (well I might have actually spoke to myself loudly as well to crank up the currage) that the planks should be able to take it. But I wasn't exactly sure, until two locals rocked up and told me it is perfectly safe. Who am I to argue (plus I was too lazy to go around the whole lake) so I decided to give it a go. Fully aware that flooded engine here would be moerse pain in the ass, I decided to push the bike across with engine switched of, so should it crash through I would hopefully not end up with flooded engine.

    The two locals helped me to push it across - for a small fee of course - and I was elated to find this little nifty shortcut that eliminated need to go through big smoke Inharrime.

    Job done with my two helpers (and structural engineering experts):


    [​IMG]


    Seems like locals do not question the world famous Moz bridge building quality at all (yes - an excuse for more picture of the bridge):


    [​IMG]


    OK - the last two :peepwall:


    [​IMG]


    [​IMG]


    After a short break, I jumped on the bike and pushed on following along the eastern shore of the lagoon and some bushes covering the dune separating the lagoon and the ocean:


    [​IMG]


    [​IMG]


    [​IMG]


    [​IMG]


    [​IMG]


    [​IMG]


    [​IMG]


    Once past the lagoon I T-boned the main dirt road between Inharrime and Zavora beach in a little village and rode it the last km or two to the Zavora lodge.


    [​IMG]


    In the lodge I booked a room in one of their wooden baracks on top of the dune. They are pretty stuffy as they have no aircon and are sittin in direct sun. On top of it for some reason they recently tarred them and the vapours were to rob me off few years of my life in the night. But hey - with no other options availalbe, still better than slumming it in the tent :snorting:

    View from my tarred dune room:


    [​IMG]


    [​IMG]


    [​IMG]


    [​IMG]


    [​IMG]


    As a proper beach bum, I spend the afternoon soaking in the ocean and lazing about in the lodge restaurant.
    #29
    River Rat, forgorin, DCrider and 15 others like this.
  10. Xpat

    Xpat Been here awhile Supporter

    Joined:
    Jul 7, 2007
    Oddometer:
    799
    Location:
    Johannesburg, South Africa
    Thanks again for following and comments :thumb

    On the accounts of cojones - not really needed. Yes it is a former mine field and while there still may be something lurking there, there were fresh tracks going all over the show and I felt confident that if it would still be too hot, locals would give it a wide berth, especially as there is tar alternative not too far away. So it was calculated risk.
    #30
    Dan Diego and squadraquota like this.
  11. Xpat

    Xpat Been here awhile Supporter

    Joined:
    Jul 7, 2007
    Oddometer:
    799
    Location:
    Johannesburg, South Africa
    Day 6 - Zavora beach to Tofo beach

    I was lucky to wake up next morning albeit with slightly distorted vision. I'm no builder, but who the f@#k tars their cottages???? Unlike some other people, I'm not a fan of this establishment I have been here twice before and it just gets more and more dilapidated every time - and not in a charming kind of way...

    I stumbled half blind out of that death trap and after about 20 minutes of fresh ocean air I got enough of my vital body functions re-established to be able to pack up and bugger off.


    [​IMG]


    Objective for the day was Tofo beach only about 110 km away on relatively easy tracks that I have done twice before already on heavier bikes:


    [​IMG]


    So I took it easy and soaked up the morning scenery with people just waking up and going about their daily business. Here locals hiding behind tall grall doing their laundry in the lake:


    [​IMG]


    [​IMG]


    [​IMG]


    The tracks were the variation of the prior day's riding - little footpaths that in placed turned into jeep tracks running through palm tree alleys, dense tropical vegetation and over rolling sandy dunes:

    [​IMG]


    [​IMG]


    [​IMG]


    [​IMG]


    [​IMG]


    [​IMG]


    [​IMG]


    [​IMG]


    [​IMG]


    [​IMG]


    [​IMG]
    #31
    forgorin, Shaggie, Ranchworld and 4 others like this.
  12. Xpat

    Xpat Been here awhile Supporter

    Joined:
    Jul 7, 2007
    Oddometer:
    799
    Location:
    Johannesburg, South Africa
    About half way through I came to Legogo - small town with the charm of wild west town on Mexican border in a midday heat:


    [​IMG]


    [​IMG]


    [​IMG]


    [​IMG]


    [​IMG]


    Local school:


    [​IMG]


    [​IMG]


    [​IMG]


    After the Legogo it was more or less the same track until I came to the dune field where I took detour across the dunes to a resort on the beach I have visited last time I was here. If I remember correctly I haven't fallen yet on this trip (at least in Moz - I have dropped the bike once in Swaziland trying to jump over fallen palm tree), so I had a lot of catching up to do. Which I did in the bloody dune field which dropped me on 15 or so km going probably 3 times.


    [​IMG]


    [​IMG]


    [​IMG]


    [​IMG]


    [​IMG]


    [​IMG]


    When I arrived at the beach resort, the place seemed basically abandoned. The bar and restaurant were closed and there was no one to be seen - quite sad sight really as the location is great:


    [​IMG]


    [​IMG]


    [​IMG]


    [​IMG]


    Eventually the owner - an middle aged Saffer living for a long time in Moz showed up with a friend and invited me for a tea to their house where their respective wifes were hairdressing each other (hope that isn't a code word for something kinky). I got my tea and we had nice chat about the life. The resort indeed wasn't prospering and if my memory serves me right they were looking either into selling the place. It is a shame as it is a nice place bot for some reason that now elludes me they were able to get enough customers in. They blamed to an extent government and some of their policies that were according to them scaring away tourists, such as the whole Renamo conflict and things like hassle on the border I have experienced.

    Anyway, they were nice hospitable people and I hope the situation turns for better for them. After I finished my tea I thanked them and moved on. I crossed the dunes back and hit the trail heading north towards Tofo beach, which was still about 20 - 30 km away.

    Taking break just as I got out of the dunes (and buying few plots on the way):


    [​IMG]


    [​IMG]


    The rest of the way was combination of the trademark Moz red sand roads and more of the little footpaths running along the coast, until I hit the tar road from Inhambane and took that for the remaining few km to Tofo beach:


    [​IMG]


    [​IMG]


    [​IMG]


    [​IMG]


    [​IMG]


    I arrived at Tofo shortly after noon. Since my favourite place in Tofo - or rather outside of Tofeo, Bamboozi lodge has been shat down for few years now, I headed to the next place I knew - Casa Barry sitting slap bang in the middle of the town right on top of the main beach. It is expensive, but conveniently positioned with its restaurant and bar overlooking the main beach. A good place to rest a day or two after 6 solid days of riding, so I booked a thatched hut for a two nights and moved in:


    [​IMG]


    [​IMG]


    [​IMG]


    I have spent the rest of the day on the beach and gorging myself in the restaurant & bar.
    #32
    River Rat, forgorin, DCrider and 8 others like this.
  13. miguelitro

    miguelitro I like the ads, in fact, give me more ads.

    Joined:
    Nov 4, 2008
    Oddometer:
    2,386
    Location:
    San Diego, CA
    Is Tofo the popular surf spot I've heard about in Moz?

    Great report,

    Mike
    #33
  14. Xpat

    Xpat Been here awhile Supporter

    Joined:
    Jul 7, 2007
    Oddometer:
    799
    Location:
    Johannesburg, South Africa
    Probably, it is definitely the top spot in Moz for diving, especially with whale sharks and manta rays. More on that in next installment.
    #34
    Throttlemeister and miguelitro like this.
  15. Dillard

    Dillard Seeker Super Supporter

    Joined:
    Jul 3, 2010
    Oddometer:
    356
    Location:
    In my mind
    Well done, Xpat, I loved all the pics. Looks like a terrific ride, and that stick bridge was badass too.

    These Africa reports are my favorite. And yours are always awesome.
    #35
  16. Saso

    Saso Happily sporting the DRD4 gene Supporter

    Joined:
    Oct 28, 2005
    Oddometer:
    1,126
    Location:
    Base camp
    Amazing RR! Thanks for taking us along - giving us a taste of riding and "beach bumming" in a part of the world I can only dream about visiting one day. :freaky
    #36
  17. Throttlemeister

    Throttlemeister Long timer Super Supporter

    Joined:
    Sep 17, 2007
    Oddometer:
    4,563
    Location:
    Okie near Muskogee
    Wonderful ride! Can’t wait for this next bit.
    #37
  18. Schmokel

    Schmokel Long timer

    Joined:
    Jun 29, 2015
    Oddometer:
    17,699
    Location:
    Up. And to the right.
    "Warning: Land Mines"

    :eek7
    #38
  19. sledrydr

    sledrydr Been here awhile

    Joined:
    Sep 28, 2012
    Oddometer:
    246
    Location:
    Iowa
    Great read! Thanks
    #39
  20. Xpat

    Xpat Been here awhile Supporter

    Joined:
    Jul 7, 2007
    Oddometer:
    799
    Location:
    Johannesburg, South Africa
    Thanks for following, I'm glad people are watching :thumb
    #40
    SteveTheLocal and RedDogAlberta like this.