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Discussion in 'Trials' started by DirtDud, Apr 23, 2014.
Help me to spend money on my Trials bikes ! What do you think are the best ones ?
Depends on the bike. If you want to look cool, or just spend money. Or it could be the best pegs to last longer.
S3 steel, maybe not the lightest but shallow design and long lasting with good grip.
Foot pegs are not the only wear item. Sometimes it is cheaper to just replace pegs. So you have a Montesa 4rt. You update to stronger brackets. Then thinking stronger is always better, you buy the old hebo gasser pegs that were indestructible. A couple months go by and everything is good. Next trials the whole foot peg assembly falls off after hitting a rock. When you pick it up you realize none of your new components broke, it was the frame. Some times it is better to break a peg! :eek1
I would love a new set of pegs but have been split on what is best... I don't need the most inditructible set but would like a more comfortable platform, if that is possible, without compromising performance.
I welcome suggestions but if possible include why you recommend so I can build a more informed opinion.
I really like my raptors. There comfortable, have held up really well, shed the mud with there open design, and look like artwork. The old steel Hebos are hard to beat value wise. Jitsie makes a clone thats even cheaper - but not quite as strong. (Maybe a good thing if you lean that way)
I like the thought of good ability to shed the mud, I do want reasonable durability but I would rather have a peg brake or bend than the bike's frame have an issue.
It looks like Jitsie now has there own version of the S3 hard rock aluminum... I like the width of the Jitsie and S3 but not sure about the fact they both seem to be called out as vary strong/indestructible... Maybe if I keep the stock hangers for my 4RT so I don't risk the frame?
I like the forged aluminum RQ pegs (OEM on Sherco) from Ryan Young Products. They are the lightest and longest longest of the available pegs, and as wide as the alternatives. Being forged, they are quite tough. I've hit them pretty hard without bends of breaks. Big teeth. Big open hole for mud to go through. Simple. Not super expensive.
Application well documented here:
Better pix on a Raga rebuild with RQ pegs are later in the thread.
I have an extra pair of S3 Hard Rock steel pegs. New in the package. I ran them on My Beta Techno.. so much better than the stock pegs. This extra pair I bought for a Rev3 than I sold.
My Evo came with the Raptors, way nicer that the S3 but twice the price.
PM me if interested in the S3 I have.
I dont personally care for the Ti S3's. After one easy (didnt ride much) season both pegs had several cracks in them and the one broke. The steel version is probably alot better. The shape does help you slide over rocks instead of having the peg grab them. I really liked mine until I didnt....
+1 on the steel S3's, they feel good to stand on.
An update on the use of the excellent RQ forged aluminum pegs (the OEM Sherco pegs - available from RYPUSA.com).
I put another set on the GasGas `14, this time red anodized pegs in Universal kit form. I prefer the grip and feel of the RQs. They have become favorites.
The Replica comes with S3 Hard Rock investment cast steel pegs painted black. These are unfortunately too stubby laterally (short), and the teeth are a bit small. Also, the inner row of teeth on really tear up forged aluminum kickstart levers at the collision point (you can grind the teeth off flat there to stop that).
I discovered that unlike my `11 Raga, GasGas did not have 10mm holes and pins through the footpegs and frame clevises, but rather went back to 8mm holes. That means the universal style RQs with the stainless steel spacer/sleeve and washer are a direct fit using the parts with the kit.
Now one thing I noticed on the Raga was if I didn't keep the peg pivots oiled and they got dry, the footpegs would creak when I put a lot of force into them. When I found out the setup on the Replica was 8mm, I got an idea. I wanted to fix the stainless steel parts tot he pegs so it would be for sure ferrous metals pivoting on ferrous metals.
I used the metal-powder-filled epoxy, JB Weld to affix both the spacer/sleeve and the washer to the peg. I did this washer side down to make the pegs as low as possible for better lateral balance:
Here's what it ended up looking like. The following photo shows the S3 pegs and the RQ pegs on the bike, before I did the JB Weld mod:
My only criticism of these pegs is the springs. They are not made of spring steel. They naturally fit best such as to spring them open rather then wind the coil tighter. When you go full travel on the peg the spring will yield some. It still works, but you lose the stronger pop back force. I never notice a problem when riding though.
BTW, I tighten the M8 bolt and nut (I used the set off the GasGas and not those provided in the kit) to where the peg just has enough clearance to be free. I also grease the pivot, and as that migrates out later I oil the pivots. Lubrication greatly reduced peg pivot wear and prevents any potential noise. Being steel-on-steel, however, I should not get creaking noises even with a dry pivot.
Nothing but Raptors here. They are super strong. I take them off the bike when I sell it, and put it on the next one. They are on the third bike now. So the expense is more than made up in durability. Aluminum pegs go dull rather quickly. I bought a back up set that I have been sitting on for years now, because I just haven't needed them. Super light, comfortable, but thing I really love about the Raptors is once I switched to them, my boots are lasting TWICE as long, as they don't tear up the soles.
Those are titanium. They are nice pegs for sure! Also very expensive.
I just saw a pair on a `14 Replica Sunday. They look shorter, like the S3 pegs, so I still favor the RQs for length. I found if you get color anodized RQs like red the teeth will show the aluminum below when the anodize wears, but they don't really wear off in the teeth. And the tooth profile is just awesome. The teeth are far apart and just the right shape. Wont tear up boots, yet the grip is the best I've experienced in mud.
I'm thinking of getting a set of Raptor Titanium foot pegs for my new 4RT and need some measurements to help me decide.
I need the side-to-side and front-to-back measurements, outside the teeth.
I've never been able to decide what 'long' and 'wide' refer to, so my peculiar nomenclature will keep me from being confused.
I'm hoping these Raptors are the largest platform available; looking for comfort when trail riding (in re my TrialsToTrails project).
'Anyone suggest a place that sells them for a reasonable price?
Rick, it is better for the pegs to bend than not. Next will be the mounts (which is still easy to replace) Next is a new frame.
On the 4RT, the peg mount is the "fuse". Aftermarket pegs are OK, avoid the hootchie aftermarket mounts. Had a set of mystery hootchie pegs on my 4RT for many years, several sets of OE mounts.
ramz, long is your ss dimension and wide is your fb dimension.
The more recent pegs tend to be about the same width. The RQs are a bit longer than the others. The S3 Hard Rock length and the Raptor length are about the same. The Raptors are not the largest available, the RQ are, in the length and you can buy 2-1/2 or so of the RQs for the price of the Raptors.
I used to make laser cut parts to widen and lengthen pegs via stainless TIG welding. I ran out of my stock Made in Michigan from a decade ago, and just had some quoted Made in Oklahoma by a waterjet outfit. The price was ridiculous, so I probably won't be making any more. The last set is likely to be that of the Beta 80 I have been futzing with. As I said previously, I like the RQs a lot, so I don't really have a motivation to be doing the labor on the expanded steel ones relative to what I get for them.
As a result of making pegs for years, I've sampled a bunch of them and have a very good feel for subtleties between the available pegs. I've also experimented a lot with size and amount of grip. You can be too big, and too sticky and the teeth too sharp. There requirements compete against themselves, and there are compromises. I have two different kinds of legs contacting the pegs. Real and artificial, so that adds to the feedback I get
Oh and a correction. I posted the wrong pic for the RQ on a `14 Replica - the ones I did the JB Weld trick with. Here is the correct photo. This photo shows the very open tooth profile no one else comes close to. When you stand on these pegs with boots on the feel is very good. No sliding around at all:
Get the Raptors if you want expensive and trick. They won't feel quite as good as the RQ. The upside with the Raptors will be they look good longer. With either pegs you can transfer them to the next bike, but the Raptors will last longer.
The 2016 4RT260 comes with S3 Hardrock steel pegs. I'd leave them on.
You may want a kickstand that keeps the bike up a lot better than the stock one, and has a tip that isn't snagging things along the trail. If so, check out the Mitani side stand. Overland Trail Cycle may have them in stock.