??best final drive / swing arm set up for a custom Tiger Steamer

Discussion in 'Some Assembly Required' started by Coachgeo, May 24, 2013.

  1. Coachgeo

    Coachgeo Diesel Adventurer

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    Not sure where this thread should sit I put it in here to mate with my slow moving build thread at :
    http://advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=455854

    Looking for suggestions on final drive and swing arm set up for a custom fabrication that dieselizes a 1997 Triumph Tiger. End result making it a Tribota (Kubota powered Tiger).

    Parameters to consider when looking for best final drive to use:

    .Not sure what is best CCW or CW. cause either option has disadvantages and advantages so open to both. Engine is CCW but there is various ways to end with CW rotation if needed.

    . want various ratio availability to ease experimenting with ratios. If I get my info right there is two or three potential ratios for BMW and about same for Kawasaki. Not sure about Honda or Suzuki

    . In OEM set up; would prefer using a Final drive that came with 19" rear wheel orrrr it would be easy to adapt to a 19" to the final drives OEM matching swing arm. Tiger's OEM rear wheel is 19"

    . Final Drive's matching OEM swing arm reasonably customizable for mounting to frame of Triumph Tiger 1997 w/mono shock

    . Cost! (which leans heavily against BMW)

    . Swing arm / Final Drive is durable enough for Adv. Bike use

    More points will arise and open to your additional points
    #1
  2. larryboy

    larryboy Stable genius.

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    I'd say that the nod would go to BMW for this project, used FD's on ebay are dirt cheap, single side mounting opens the door for shims to space to center, it's a sealed unit...you can build your own swingarm to fit the drive, you don't even need to use the wheel or brakes on the thing...custom pinion brake :deal.


    Goldwing FD might work, it's strong, but then you need to use the swingarm to match, plus side is that the newer ones are single sided and the brakes stay with the FD, not the wheel.

    Food for thought, hope that helps.
    #2
  3. Coachgeo

    Coachgeo Diesel Adventurer

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    Thank you!!!

    BMW dirt cheap...???...... matters the model; some are dirt cheap some are not. Question is.......... are the cheaper/older ones close to the right ratio for a diesel or would I have to get a newer bike's R&Pinion to swap into it thus duplicating cost. That is if newer would even fit into older drive case (where old seems to fit newer; in some cases.)

    Got any BMW year/model suggestions?

    Can you elaborate on Pinion brake?

    Thought about Honda GW cause so many total units exist due to Trike kits leaving whole back of bike as left over parts in the conversion.
    #3
  4. larryboy

    larryboy Stable genius.

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    I see a K75 FD for $100 right now on ebay, another newer RT for $225...seems pretty cheap to me.


    Pinion brake...you could mount a small rotor up at the trans output...has to be a very small rotor since a brake on the pinion side is super powerful and sensative...think duece and a half for pinion brakes.


    You probably want a pretty tall gear, 2.82 or taller. Here is a 2.75 for $110:

    http://www.ebay.com/itm/Final-drive...Parts_Accessories&hash=item1c307c2f91&vxp=mtr
    #4
  5. larryboy

    larryboy Stable genius.

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  6. Coachgeo

    Coachgeo Diesel Adventurer

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    taking a gamble on the BMW 2.75 on Ebay. Now to figure out how to get a 19" wheel on that Final Drive.
    #6
  7. Coachgeo

    Coachgeo Diesel Adventurer

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    ahhhhhhhhhh ok...... a Driveline brake more than a pinion brake hmm........ interesting idea. May use a chain from CVT Secondary to final drive's UJoint to allow for some final ratio adjust ability and could maybe put brake in that area hmmm.
    #7
  8. larryboy

    larryboy Stable genius.

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    Lace a 19" BMW front hoop to a rear hub? Not sure if that's possible, might be the wrong spoke count or width?

    I'd just spoon a car tire on a BMW rear wheel, custom project like you're doing let's you space things from scratch to fit.
    #8