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Discussion in 'Trials' started by garrett, Sep 6, 2014.
Fix the old one, you will break it again. Do not feel bad about it. Everyone does it.
I am envisioning drilling a few holes and zip ties to hold it in place. Thats the plan right now anyway....
I found pop-rivets to work well on my daughters Beta 80 when its rear fender broke in the middle... not sure where you are broken but might be worth considering as they are a little stronger than the zip ties.
That and the fender is different so could require some other tweaking to do that...
Thanks for the tips...
Your choice, but have found that adding plastic laminate to both top and bottom holds both directions better. Cut a thin slice in the underside L channel for a short distance, on one or both sides , and slide laminate in. Permatex and pop rivets works. Have seen some use thin sheet steel.
Plastic fenders on Beta's leave a lot to be "desired" to put it mildly. If you crash these at all, get used to spending money or having cobbled up crap.
I have yet to NEED to replace mine. Sure I knocked my front fender off during practice at Donner. Nothing that a few well placed washers could not fix. But I do have a full replacement set sitting in my office.
Are you running the metal "GG" front fender brace? The stock plastic mount is junk.
I had one that I put on Garrett`s and have been tempted as Hoss has them with white fenders. Maybe my next order with him. The original is just soooo good, I hate to see it gone.
I should have indicated the pop rivets with Permatex... That is what I was thinking, just didn't say that. Thanks aplineboard.
I never know when to leave things alone.
Beta should be embarrassed to sell a premium quality bike with that unquestionably brittle plastic and much worse, with that designed in SPEAR on the rear fender. I came off the back one time and the bike came back at me with that dagger hitting me right in the belt line. It came real close to puncturing my abdomen, only cutting the skin and leaving a weird bump/bruise for a month.
I think my first Beta was a 2013 and find it hilarious that they call them "Evo's". There is no EVO anywhere when you can't see a problem and fix it. [/soapbox]
There's a video on YouTube of Jorge Casales going through how he sets up his bike (on a Beta at the time). He basically re profiles the rear fender to remove the spike and tells a story about friends getting impaled in sensitive areas.
Thoughts/advice on a 2011 125cc for a trials beginner? Things to look for? Value? Thanks!
Chain noise. For the past 70 hrs of ride time, I thought this noise was coming from the tensioner slapping, or the chain slapping against the swing arm plastic wear guard. It does not bother me, and kind of know it is there happening, but other people watching say , hey what is up with your bike? It happens on acceleration and deceleration.
It is a good DID ERT2 chain and I like it a lot, it barely has grown in length and at almost 200 hours, still performs great. The noise started at approx. 120 hours of use since new chain and new 10/44 sprockets.
So I get up on a high rock and just relaxing , happen to stall it. So I am in first , and gently rock the bike for and aft, and there is the noise, motor is off , so I can definitely hear this noise , up close and personal now. It seems that when tension is applied to the chain in either direction, start small and increase this tension, at a certain point, the chain has a very sharp snap, like a very quick sharp clapping your hands. Just one noise and that is it. And visually you can see the chain, tensioned portion vibrate a very small amount when this noise happens. Safe to say , it is not the tensioner or anything to do with tensioner.
It is as though something is re aligning itself or falling/snapping into place inside the chain, when tension is applied to the chain. I do not think it is the master link.
Possible uneven pin wear...? There is visible side slop on said chain, or space between the inner/outer plates, more than there was when new. When the time comes for a new chain/sprockets, I will cut the chain up and inspect for clues.
I keep my chain/sprockets very clean, rag clean the chain, and rag clean every tooth, then oil, after every 1 hour to 1 1/2 hour ride. Very happy with service life, but is 120 hours premature for this stretching noise from chain?? Considering my ride style is 99% 1st gear putt, putt.
The rear sprocket mount bolts are tight.
Has any one had a similar experience with this type of chain noise...? Thank you, r Will try to get a video of this happening up on that rock.
I would say go get it. I have a 2011 125 and a 2015 250, still really enjoy riding the 125, especially just trail riding. Has been a solid bike for me, nothing really to worry about aside from usual wear items: wheel/swingarm bearings, brake seals etc. My wife is pretty light so she has a hard time kicking over a bigger bike (literally cannot budge the kicker on my 450) so she enjoys riding the 125 as it is super easy to start.
Glad to hear it, I ended up going for it. It's been well used and needs some minor things but has already been a lot of fun. Ended up being a 13 evo factory. Thanks!
Swapped out the "Gear Stopper Cam" today to the revised 2018 Factory version (part #007.05.007.00.00). Hopefully this solves the popping out of gear issue. But I'm hearing feedback from 2018 Factory owners that their bikes are popping out of gear! Sigh.....
Just a little FYI. I got a chain alignment tool because I thought the alignment looked off on another bike. Checked my 13 Evo 300 and it was way off. I have the stock snail adjuster on the 7th dimple on one side and 4 on the other to get it aligned. Wheel bearings, linkage and swingarm bearings all seem good....no play. Unfortunately it did not make any significant improvement to my riding. :O
Very interesting , I wonder if you found the rear brake working better since aligning the rear wheel / chain ??? That's quite a difference between the snail cams . Have you tried to find why , there is such a difference ? Cheers irishgb