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Discussion in 'Trials' started by garrett, Sep 6, 2014.
@alpineboard - do you notice much difference between the factory and your standard?
They are both Factory 300 2T, I rode the 2016 for a season with the 10/42 and stock Flywheel. Then changed this 2016 to 9/42, then went to 10/44 and staying 10/44, also added hvy FW and hvy primary gear the 2016. So the 2016 is kind of a Factory Plonker, that I have adapted riding in my tight areas very well.
I had a Expert rider come over with a 2016 Factory 300 2T, we kind of bought them at the same time. He kept his totally stock, and I watched his ride style of lots of clutch/point and shoot RPM style of riding. He did some of the biggest rocks on the property, not all of them but most of them. Rocks that I have not done yet. Expert B, some Expert A rocks.
My plan , that is subject to change, is to try to get a feel, give this point and shoot ride style a try, with this new to me 2015 factory 300, and keep it stock. I did just put the (6) 3 mm offset clutch washers on for an easier lever.
While riding the dirt road hills with the 2015 with the 10/42 stock, stock FW, in 4th 5th 6th, has plenty of punch all over the rpm range, when I added the hvy FW to the 2016 and also the 10/44, I do remember losing some of this punch, but did so as I only do this road rip at the end of an hour ride in the tight , and it is only for 1 minute at most. But it is fun to have it back and kind of miss those instant wheelies and quick rpm acceleration. So now can experiment with a plonker and an RPM bike. Will see what happens.
Oh , I need to talk about the clutch plates on the 2015, will search for that thread, (I think it is this one), but while installing the 3mm offset washers, I took the plates out and inspected them, all the plates were great, absolutely did not have any epoxy squish out in between the pads and the exterior tabs on the plates were a very clean cast, meaning a good clean square 90 angle , that did not need to be filed at all. I put some ATF in and even when engine cold and 25 degrees F, have zero clutch lurch or drag. From neutral to first, hit the shifter and click right into first, zero drag, bike remains completely motionless. My 2016 needed the plates epoxy scraped and tabs filed.
Repacked the headset, new fork oil, cleaned/repacked wheel bearing, rotor, pads, tire. I put about 20 ft/pds on the steer tube column top nut, seeing that there is an Oring on top of the weather shield that is involved in the squish/tighten.
those 1st 2 pics are untouched as I saw it grease wise, it is enough but I like to use more grease, to keep water from getting in.
I still prefer the 9/44 gearing. 2nd gear is the main gear I use. The Beta first is just too low and 2nd too high for most sections. 3rd is almost exactly the same as stock second. Last trials I only used first in one section and two others in third. Usually I will shift more in the sections with this gearing, but then again I am riding a 250.
I replaced the stock Flywheel with heavier GB/SS Flywheel and also added "Anti-Stall" weight to Primary Gear on my '16 Evo 300 to essentially build a "Super Smooth 300". For fun, I let the bike idle along without touching throttle and noticed how well it continues to keep chugging along with minimal inclines of terrain and no hint of stalling. Rode my 300 all day yesterday in RI at Skill Build Trial and very pleased with it's current setup. Loaned out my 200 to beginner rider and he seemed to have a Great Day with such an easy to ride bike. I still favor the 200 for dry conditions and the 300 when traction isn't as good.
I have the Evo 250 2T 2011. Is there a easy way to identify if you have a heavier spring in the forks and shock? I had a quick look but did not see any marking on it.
Any recommendation on torque spec of the triple clamp head tube nut, after I re greased everything , the head tube nut is loosening after a while of riding.
When I originally removed the head tube nut, it was about 20 ft pounds to get off, so that is how I reinstalled it, approx 20 ft pds. But there is not a locking ring nut on this system, just this single nut, and there is an Oring just under the weather cap shield, which is just under the top triple clamp. Top triple clamp has a single split binder bolt to hold the top of head tube.
Thinking maybe locktite will hold it there, but none was used from new, and it never loosened for 3 years.
Also , realize, 1, do not want it loose, 2, do not want it too tight either. So guess the question is, How do you set these triple clamp steer bearing adjustment? Does this Oring act as a self limiting bearing adjustment, as the nut is tightened, the Oring squishes to a 1/2 way point squish...? and all is good? thanks
Just did the re tightening, will see what happens. 15/16" open end sneaks in there nicely, to get at the head tube nut. With out removing handle bars.
Place your finger on the area between the pinch nut and the top triple clamp and rock the bike to feel for motion. Some standard Beta top triple clamps pre-18 had too much clearance in the spindle hole. Tightening the nut would help for a few hours but the only way to fix it was to shim the spindle. I don’t know about the Top Trial clamps but if they don’t have a pinch bolt that might be your problem. I chased that clunk for months tightening the bearings and re-seating the head bearings over and over until I figured that one out.
This was posted by Dan. W. at TC.
Mine is a 2016 Factory , Will try a heavier torque with a bit of loktite, and make marks on headtube nut/triple base with paint pen , and watch for nut movement. Yes, if loose, clunk when the front wheel comes down after being in the air.
That nut is really just an adjuster to set the tension on your headset bearings. You loosen that nut and the top triple clamp bolt. Tension the bearings by tightening that nut until there is no “wobble” in the front end. I’ve never worried about a torque figure, just kinda go by feel. Once you have the wobble out then tighten your upper triple clamp and your done. That nut has no load on it, if it’s loose on the threads then a little blue loctite should keep it from spinning loose.
Thanks Sam, yes, that is what I had been doing , as you stated above. IMO, give that O ring a bit of a squish, approx 15 to 20 ft lbs, you can feel it squishing for 1/4 turn, as you tighten the nut and then it locks up, I cleaned the nut and tube threads with brake cleaner, and then a couple drops of blue locktite, should be fine. Thanks
Have ridden enough now, No movement on the pinch nut, no more clunk on the drops, all is well. Locktite/blue did the job. pic of that Oring
I have an '18 Beta EVO 250 2T headed from near sea level, ~300', to CO for several weeks this summer. We'll be at campsites at 8500' and up from there.
Can someone kindly point me to a jetting chart for this bike? I tried searching the web, a search here on ADV, and thumbing through the manual with no luck. Anybody in the high-country care to share their setup?
Yes, on the fork spring, look at the end of the spring for an egraved #. BTW I have a stiffer fork spring for sale, in the flea market
No charts out there that I know of but I would start with this thread. I remember a few posts about high altitude jetting in there.
Best of luck.
There's a couple of good clubs in and around Colorado
Many thanks. I found these two sentences very helpful...
"Altitude does require main jet reduction, but not low-speed jet reduction. The point is, if you are already factory lean on bottom at a lower elevation, with a further drop in mass flow with altitude, it may run real poorly, requiring excess clutch work to stay alive."
"Refining things a bit, with 250s and 300s with Keihins, 122 is a good jet right at sea level. At 1,200 to 3,500 feet a 120 is fine. At 8,000 to 11,000 feet a 112 is peachy. You can proportion for the altitudes in between."
I will probably crack mine open before the trips to know where I'm starting, so I can have proper parts on hand to adjust. Thanks again for the link.
Assuming you have stock jetting 48 pilot and 125 main. Go up one on the pilot (50) and down 2 or 3 on the main (118 or 120 (118 works for me at 8500-9000). Consider running the idle a little higher than normal to offset what feels like sluggish response at altitude. Tighten up any slack in the throttle cable.
Also remember to remove excess air pressure in the front forks by loosening the caps past the o-ring, press down about 1/2 stroke several times to release excess air pressure, then tighten the caps back up.
I keep my EVO 4T at our ranch in CO. At 8000’.I’m not sure what jet is in it but when I ordered it via BYOB I had the high altitude spring put in . It starts first kick, idles a tad high but I’m good with that. Was riding at 9000-9500’ last weekend and no problems.
The spring is available on the Beta website.
In my 290 I have settled on a 52 pilot, 120 main, and a JJJ needle on the first clip. From 5000 to 11000 feet, it runs better than anything else I have tried so far. I was getting a lot of carbon buildup on the plug with the standard JJH needle, the new one has cleaned that up and sharpened throttle response considerably. I picked the pilot by seeing what would run best with the air screw 1.5 turns out and give good response to changes.