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Discussion in 'Trials' started by garrett, Sep 6, 2014.
Why would you?
Completely fills the sight glass at level - back when I used the manual's recommended 550ml.
So, the manual recommends 550ml yet everyone seems to think that 450ml (or even a little less) is what should be in there. Hmm.
Word on the street is 550mL is for a bone dry engine.
I put in 420-430mL and it touches the top of the sight glass, depending on how good of a job I do draining. I usually have a tiny pocket at the very top of the sight glass when it's level on a stand.
A buddy who bought a used Beta and filled it according to the 550mL guideline ended up with oil spewing out the vent when he tipped the bike over. Trials bikes spend quite a lot of time tipping over. He puts in about 100mL less now.
OK, so ~100ml 'hides' in the case after draining. Refill amounts depend on how good of a drain job you do. Just to be anal, I'll start measuring the drain oil....... j/k
I've been on Beta 250 2T's for the fourth year now. 450cc in the crankcase has consistently worked for me. Too much oil, or oil that needs to be changed results in clutch drag. I use Lucas 10w30 full synthetic or Bel Ray 10W40 and find it needs changing every 20-25 hours. That is what works for me.
I did the clutch fix by adding .01” of shims under the pressure plate. No drag to speak of and the clutch feels great! I added a couple thin washers under the spring bolts too as an experiment. I’m convinced on the shimming under the pressure plate, not convinced on the washers under the bolts.
Does your bike have the 'top hat' washers you can flip? There's actually 5 different configurations of the clutch you can look into. I liked mine with the washers in the standard position, two springs removed, and the pressure plate shimmed. I'm running the 6 secret-sauce lighter gas gas springs an inmate passed onto me. People can't believe how light my clutch is. I can't make it slip with any clutch dump in a high gear that I'm willing to do.
https://www.dropbox.com/s/zr6fw15zu30pbl5/STT-2012-3-Evo 300 clutch set up.pdf?dl=0
Good stuff! Thanks for the info. My bike is a 2016 250 factory. It does have the same top hat washers. I’ll have to play around with the different settings. When I got the bike the PO had taken two springs out. It was alright, the brake tec clutch master cylinder needed a rebuild though. It’s been good after rebuild. The shimming has been a big improvement. I’m going to pull the washers off the top of the springs tomorrow and go from there with more tuning to my preference.
Yeah, it will slip with the two springs out. Also the Beta clutch varies wildly with different oil types.
That was my experience with the two springs out. I’m currently running some castrol 4t competition 10w30. I’m due for an oil change though. I may try something different this time around.
Actually ATF works better than anything else. But what would I know, I bought my first Beta in 1990.
Noted. Anything in particular that you run?
There are ATF guys and then there are non-ATF guys. My local Beta guys who have been running the brand for years say they haven't used ATF since the 1990s, that you only use it when you are having major problems and the clutch should work properly on oil meant for the job. Maxima MTL seems to be where it is at. After trying 80W and not being happy I have now gone to 75W and am happier. I am happier still now that I did the clutch mod removing the glue from between the pads. KTM shims are on their way to complete the job I hope.
Agreed on the MTL 75w.
More importantly, where'd you find the KTM shims in stock?! I ended up buying these shims from McMaster-Carr which work fine and are easier to get: 91437A555 and 91437A560. If I could find KTM shims, I would prefer those because they're wider.
Try Dex 6, even yummier than Dex 3.
Also Stu (Jacks Cycles, Berwick Maine) has evo clutch Offset washers, designed/ fabbed by Dan W, (more info at "Trials Central"), they have more offset than the Beta washers, and still no slip while testing climbing a dirt road steep hill in 4th and 5th.
Well I am sure I overpaid, they were like $2.50 each from some eBay seller in California. They still haven't shipped even though I ordered last Sunday so I have no idea if I'll get them. I may end up ordering the McMaster-Carr ones (thanks for the numbers!) if these don't ship in the next few days.
They probably had to get the shims from KTM.
What's different about EVO handlebars? Every time I get on someone else's bike, it feels weird. Even some other Betas. It feels like the front wheel is closer, more 'under' me and my elbows are higher. I briefly tried a 300 4t over the weekend and it felt nothing like my 300 2t; it felt more like the TRSs and other bikes I've ridden.
Are the standard EVO bars flatter? Maybe less sweep/straighter? Kinda hard for a gumby like myself to tell.
Speaking of 4 strokes, that thing reminded me why I didn't like that WR450F I had. The 4 stroke just comes on way too hard too early. Montesa 300rr felt more progressive? I'm not sure about the Montesa, everyone is so precious about those things that I haven't given one a real go.