Big Fat Tat on a BDR Roll: aka The 2021 U.S. Dirty Dirty Ride

Discussion in 'Ride Reports - Epic Rides' started by Ikeya-Seki, Jul 9, 2021.

  1. Ikeya-Seki

    Ikeya-Seki Been here awhile Supporter

    Joined:
    May 30, 2017
    Oddometer:
    260
    Location:
    New Hampshire
    Tuesday, August 17
    Days:
    40

    Nuts & Bolts: Katy M & I ride from Lund to Eureka, Nevada and even find a little single track along the way.

    Miles: 101.2
    Total Miles: 7088.99
    MPG: 54.9

    Weather: 79-96F. Sunny, windy, cool morning turns into hot afternoon. Dry all day. Not a bad day for riding.

    Trail Conditions: Dusty, powdery dust (has been for a few days) hard sand with a coating to a layer of loose sand on top. Hardened top soil/ mud damaged by erosion and 4x4 activity. Embedded stone. Deep two track prone to erosion with rounded over center sections.

    Lots of sand and some single track. Some sections difficult to discern. Many cattle fences.

    Stops: Lane’s Coffee Shop in Lund for breakfast and Owl Club Bar & Steakhouse in Eureka for a burger. Seeds & berries for lunch.

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    Keeping the Lincoln Highway alive.

    Lodging: Eureka Gold Country Inn

    Observations: Riding in Nevada is pretty special. First, I’ve been surprised by the amount of high elevation terrain and forest land. Fish Lake & Humboldt National Forests offer lots of steep rugged and beautiful riding and are filled with wildlife. Next, there’s just a lot of open space with very little trace of humanity - some fencing, two track, and cattle are about it, generally speaking. As a result, riding solo can happen in a very pure form.

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    Old dwelling

    With a slow 10:30 a.m. start on Monday following two days of rugged riding, I began the day planning to take it easy. For the most part, I rode at a cruising pace with little spirited riding, hill accents the exception - I always like to get 3rd gear if I can get it.

    Most of the ride easy horizontal riding, but there were a couple passes in the 7-8500 foot range, though not as steep or consistently rugged as the day before. A smokey haze from northern fires limited views to maybe 5-10 miles. Not otherwise bothered.

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    Some of the gravel you can expect

    Most of the horizontal desert riding was along two track, some heavily rutted. Getting caught in one can be tricky. I like to ride the walls a bit and pop out with a throttle hop if it happens. Some sections of track blend in so well with their surroundings, following them is not always easy. I made a few crop circles at one point searching for the track and when I did, it wound a tight single track through sage brush and tumble weed. Standing helped to see.

    Picked up a hitchhiker some where close to Lund that stayed with me all day. His name is Bad Back. I plan to slip out of Eureka early and leave him in the dust. We’ll se how it goes.

    We ride on,

    Ikeya-Seki, out.
    DCTFAN, Katokin, Shaggie and 8 others like this.
  2. Motochimp

    Motochimp Been here awhile Supporter

    Joined:
    Oct 22, 2020
    Oddometer:
    161
    Location:
    Bend OR
    I'm a little late to this one but very much enjoying it! Just finished the TAT solo a month ago and your pics and observations bring back some awesome memories. If you're planning on lodging anywhere near Bend Oregon, I would be happy to meet up for a beer and swap some stories. Enjoy the journey!
    Ikeya-Seki likes this.
  3. Ikeya-Seki

    Ikeya-Seki Been here awhile Supporter

    Joined:
    May 30, 2017
    Oddometer:
    260
    Location:
    New Hampshire
    Sit Rep: Blew the bead off my rear tire at 7500 ft in one of the remotest parts of Nevada.

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    RR to follow.
    Katokin, Aces 6, Ginger Beard and 7 others like this.
  4. eakins

    eakins Butler Maps

    Joined:
    May 29, 2002
    Oddometer:
    39,064
    Location:
    Fort Collins, Colorado
    Sweet tour plan!
    Ikeya-Seki likes this.
  5. Motochimp

    Motochimp Been here awhile Supporter

    Joined:
    Oct 22, 2020
    Oddometer:
    161
    Location:
    Bend OR
    Damn…
    Ikeya-Seki likes this.
  6. Phreaky Phil

    Phreaky Phil Long timer

    Joined:
    Mar 18, 2006
    Oddometer:
    3,067
    Location:
    NEW ZEALAND
    Enjoying your ride report, bring back memories of our TAT ride. Can’t believe it was 11 years ago already !
    Ikeya-Seki likes this.
  7. Ikeya-Seki

    Ikeya-Seki Been here awhile Supporter

    Joined:
    May 30, 2017
    Oddometer:
    260
    Location:
    New Hampshire
    Thursday, Aug 19
    Days:
    41 & 42

    Nuts & Bolts: Katy M & I continue from Eureka, NV and ride in darkness to high desert just under 7000 feet where I call it quits for the day, 18 miles from McDermott. After a night of 37F sleep, I wake to discover Katy M’s back tire is off the bead. Wednesday is dedicated to fixes.

    Miles: 361.3 (includes Wednesday 60 miles)
    Total Miles: 7450.5
    MPG: 51.3. (60 miles of 75 mph slab)

    Weather: 37F-81F. Sun high but screened by smoke. Very windy in places. Temps drop at night.

    Trail Conditions: Smoke increases. Visibility drops and the aroma of brunt conifers rise. Sandy but firm dirt roads, some well groomed hard pack roads, sandy two track, rougher and looser as elevation increases, some stone, both embedded and loose. High, fine dust. Less erosion, some water crossings. Remote.

    Stops: The Hideway in Battle Mountain, NV for shrimp tacos, Paradise Valley Bar & Grill for the burger (it was that, chorizo, or a hot dog). The Pig in Winnemucca, NV for ribs & slaw

    Lodging: Under the stars trail side at 7000 feet. Comfort Inn, Winnemucca, NV

    Observations: Tuesday turned out to be one of the longest days of riding yet. It was also the day of missing turns.

    Nevada can put a spell on you. Distances between points are vast, horizons extend for miles in all directions. Sagebrush and tumble weed, sand and rock formations pock the desert floor in an endless carpet of green pastels. Cattle graze, wild horses run and the vultures circle the skies.

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    Double track …. Can be tricky

    For many miles the riding proved easy and predictable. Cursing at 40-50 mph in a beguilingly constant landscape can indice one’s mind to wander. Mind did. Many times. I contemplated geological time, I narrated fiction pieces, and I missed a bunch of turns. My concentration was soft and I even blew one turn for almost 9 miles in one direction. Nevada.

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    Strange things live in the Nevada desert. Breaking Bad anyone?

    With the smoke from California & Oregon fires filling the skies, the effect resembled an all day eclipse. The sun at times appeared alien and the colors of things changed some, muted maybe.

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    Sums it up nicely

    McDermitt, the goal for the day, proved to be a little too ambitious. I lost the sun about 30 miles or so short and began to look for spots to overnight. My GPS suggested a forest ahead and with that came the promise of trees. I held out and passed one okay spot after another for the promise of a better one around the corner.

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    Smokey skies, strange sun. Actual colors.

    Somewhere around 9 pm I committed to the next spot, but then came about a 600 yard hill climb. Climbing in darkness - yes, I have good off-road lights, but I also wear prescription sunglasses - limits your vision ahead and reduces line choices. More reactive.

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    Nevada is pastel

    We made the climb and hit a level spot. ImmediateIy cut the motor and began to make camp. I opted for a cot & tarp-over-bike set up and was horizontal in 10 minutes. I set my cot alongside my bike and tented & staked my tarp over us with the intent of reducing wind and maybe catching some engine heat. Cold began to creep in.

    Around 1 a.m. temps plummeted to the 30’s and I made the move to don long underwater & and electric shirt. Much better. I managed a few hours.

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    Best room in the house.

    Packed up and ready to go by 7, the thought of breakfast in McDermitt and full day of riding elevated my mood beyond the thrill of waking up trailside.

    This enthusiasm lead me to throwing a leg over Katy M before doing a thorough walk around. Off I went continuing the climb up into the mountains, but something was wrong, really wrong.

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    Calamity often strengthens the fabric of experience

    I can almost laugh not immediately suspecting a tire issue, but my mind went to suspension - had I asked too much? Did I blow the rear shock out? Dirty Gerty’s (my 1200 GSA) blew out after the 4 corners & stinger ride.

    After wresting up about 3-40 yards of climbing, running nearly sideways and feeling all wrong, I dropped the kickstand and, yep, it was a flat. A good one too - tire off the bead.

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    Jack & Rob to the rescue!

    I broke out the tools and went to work, trying everything I could. Wheel off, cleaned bead, inspected for punctures (don’t use too much water), lubricated the bead with aloe gel and hotel sample hair conditioner. I hit it with 3 CO2 cartridges (all I had) and the bead seemed to seat. I continued with the micro pump, but it wouldn’t hold pressure.

    In the process of figuring out how to put more pressure on the bead, I put the micro pump down and immediately it sucked up that dust, that fucking dust - jammed, and blew a fuse. I cleared the jam, McGyvered the fuse and was in between initiating outside help with the InReach and tying the rubber to the rim when I heard the putt putt grrr of a side x side.

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    Wednesday’s detour did not disappoint.

    With great fortune, Rob and Jack - my new buddies from Nevada, were out scouting some hunting areas and ultimately came to my rescue.

    Jack remembered he had a compressor onboard he’d never used and Rob remembered a friend using a tourniquet around the circumference of the tire to force the bead in. The pump chugged away, I broke one strap over torquing the hatched handle and with one last ditch attempt, the bead held and the tire inflated.

    We all took a little solace in the success and after a little talking, a few cookies and water, reassurances from me, Jack and Rob continued on while I put Katy M back together. Well, as fate would have it, just when I was ready to turn key, the bead let go. Fuck.

    Nevada’s good people didn’t let me fret too long because no more than one minute later, Jack and Rob came rolling back around the corner. They just couldn’t leave me out there they said (they were surprised to find me up there as it was) and opted to backtrack rather than complete thier intended loop.

    We put Jack’s pump back on and got her up to 30 or so psi & holding. This time we stuck tougher and after coming up with a plan, they followed me out to the pavement. With a little convincing - where I was headed was even more remote - I accepted their advice and headed off in the direction of Sonoma Cycles in Winnemucca, 57 miles away.

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    More strange skies

    I settled on the idea of getting a room and if in the morning my tire was flat, I’ll get it serviced, and if it was holding air, well then, we ride. I dropped in and spoke with the service manager at Sonoma and she was onboard with the plan.

    I walked for hickory smoked ribs, some decent slaw and a couple Icky IPAs at The Pig, less than a mile. Well worth it.

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    And of course, wild horses.

    The Motoz Desert HT holds air! Supplies & fuel.

    We ride on,

    Ikeya-Seki, out.
    chudzikb, Katokin, Aces 6 and 17 others like this.
  8. snglfin

    snglfin this statement is untrue

    Joined:
    Jul 19, 2011
    Oddometer:
    1,159
    Location:
    berkshire county
    man, that’s some good living right there… thanks again for sharing your amazing trip.
    Ikeya-Seki likes this.
  9. Ginger Beard

    Ginger Beard Instagram @motopossum Super Moderator

    Joined:
    Jun 24, 2008
    Oddometer:
    14,952
    Location:
    FLat Lander
    Absolutely fantastic ride report!!

    Btw, this fella is a Bull Snake.
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    The giveaway is the large single scale on its nose.

    Keep it coming! :ricky
    snglfin, Motochimp and Ikeya-Seki like this.
  10. Ikeya-Seki

    Ikeya-Seki Been here awhile Supporter

    Joined:
    May 30, 2017
    Oddometer:
    260
    Location:
    New Hampshire
    Thanks, I wasn’t sure. I’m still blown away by the rose colors on the Coachwhip that I saw in New Mexico, and yesterday a Green Racer, between McDermitt & fields.
  11. Motochimp

    Motochimp Been here awhile Supporter

    Joined:
    Oct 22, 2020
    Oddometer:
    161
    Location:
    Bend OR
    So good to hear your day ended well regarding the flat. Always nice to finish it off with good BBQ and a couple of cold IPA’s. Keep it up, I’m really enjoying the journey.
    Ikeya-Seki likes this.
  12. Ginger Beard

    Ginger Beard Instagram @motopossum Super Moderator

    Joined:
    Jun 24, 2008
    Oddometer:
    14,952
    Location:
    FLat Lander

    Lucky !! I've only seen those in captivity.
    Ikeya-Seki likes this.
  13. Ikeya-Seki

    Ikeya-Seki Been here awhile Supporter

    Joined:
    May 30, 2017
    Oddometer:
    260
    Location:
    New Hampshire
    Friday, Aug 20
    Days:
    43

    Nuts & Bolts: I ride northwest from Winnemucca back to the spot I left off and continue rolling through prehistoric landscape for miles and miles to McDermitt and then even more remote on to Fields Oregon.

    Miles: 201.4 (50 miles slab)
    Total Miles: 7653
    MPG: 51.1 (slab effect)

    Weather: 50-74F Sunny skies & white cumulus with a lingering smoke haze. Visibility 25 miles. Blustery and dry. A+ day for riding. Spirit lifting good.

    Trail Conditions: Mixed. More hard packed groomed & gravel road leading to firm double track with loose sections, Especially at intersections and hillclimbs. Conditions become more difficult closer to mountain passes & summits with significant amounts of embedded stone. The stones are hard, jagged, and unforgiving. While still possible to find a line, some sections simply require blasting over them. Some erosion.

    Tires: Rear is holding air with about 25% tread. Cracks forming between knobs. Front looks great 70% no cupping.

    Stops: Fuel. Gary & Ed’s rockhound compound for a to-go turkey and provolone on multigrain and a Coors big boy. Camp dinner of chicken Ramen with peanut butter and jelly bagel with ice water. Scrumptious.

    Lodging: Camped in the green grass backyard of Fields Station in Fields, Oregon. 50 F, no wind. 100% dry. Perfect.

    Observations: Thrilled to wake up and find my tire holding air, I made fast plans to catch up to where I had left off the day before. I stocked up heavily at the Comfort Inn breakfast suite, bagging some bagels, plenty of Jif peanut butter, a few jelly packs, a nice cup of Quaker add-water oatmeal, fresh fruit, several juices, ice. 4000 calories or more.

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    Just before I was ready to roll out of the motel parking lot, an interesting dude I’ve been talking to as I packed walked up to me and gave me a gray cloth drawstring pouch and said,“take this with you.” I asked him what it was? He said, “I don’t know, it could be gas money,” with a smile. I gave the bag a little squeeze and could kind of tell it wasn’t cash. I probably should’ve told him right away that I do not accept medical cannabis from strangers, but I didn’t.

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    Desert flora

    I checked in at Sonoma cycles and bought a quart of 20w/50 and a couple of fresh CO2 cartridges. I added a few ounces of oil to Katy’s belly, not that she needed it per se but I’ve been doing so much climbing I was thinking about oil starvation and brought her up to the three-quarter line on the site glass. I took a pint with me and left the rest.

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    I’m simply blown away by the geological formations, the business of earth making, and the palette of colors that keeps coming my way. The hardest thing about it is keeping an eye on the horizon and landscape and at the same time keeping the line. I also came upon a fairly fresh dead horse smack dab in the middle of the track. Vultures. Lots of vultures. One auto eviscerated at least a pound of flesh trying to gain lift. A strong image for sure.

    Riding was pretty tricky today owing mainly to the countless sharp rocks. Every single one of them looks like they would want to rip your tire off and for someone who just had his tire ripped off, every single one of them was threatening to me. Well, not too much. I always figure it’s gotta end and throttle up some.

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    Not a rocky section.

    Sitting on the side of the hill with a flat tire a day earlier, I only thought it was 18 miles to McDermitt. I figured if I had to, I could. It could’ve been 18 miles, if I were a bird, but it took me more than 50 miles of riding to get there. So I’m extra happy that Jack and Rob came along because an 18 mile walk that’s really a 50 mile walk, would kind of suck. The vastness of Nevada can’t be overstated and for all the straight line travel, there’s miles and miles of twisted road too.

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    Lunch w/ rock hounds Gary & Ed where I got a lesson in plate tectonics from Ed (in white).

    The rear tire is holding air but I’ve kept the pressure high at just over 30 pounds - right where we left it with Jack’s pump. It does make for a little more lively skitching around in the back end, but I’ve bumped the traction control back up to level three from one to compensate some. I really want to let 5 pounds out, but there’s an old saying; “If it ain’t broke don’t fix it.” So I didn’t. There’s some cracking between the knobs I don’t like to see, but, i’ve got about 4000 miles of hard riding on them so I can’t be too upset

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    Abused Motoz Desert HT

    I rolled into Fields after the town had pretty much closed up for the night and too late for a shake – I think it was around 7 PM. I was standing in front of Fields Station - the only store, gas staton, cafe and motel in town, scrolling through my GPS for campsites when a man named Jason walked up and offered to let me camp right here in his backyard. And wouldn’t you know it’s all grass. Happy times.

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    So I’m sitting here, the morning sun lighting my orange tent, resting my bones a little longer and waiting for the Station to open at eight for a delicious breakfast, because today we ride.

    Oh, and non-ethanol premium.

    Ikeya-Seki, out.
    BruceT, chudzikb, Katokin and 9 others like this.
  14. modiorne

    modiorne Adventurer Supporter

    Joined:
    Feb 23, 2020
    Oddometer:
    81
    Location:
    North Carolina, Charlotte-ish
    To the Jacks, Robs, Eds, and Garys... even the "interesting" dudes we meet in life. Salut! Great RR, love the pics and the human element that you weave through the story.
    brucerogers, papa ktm, xcsks and 3 others like this.
  15. AdamChandler

    AdamChandler Ascending n00b

    Joined:
    Feb 29, 2016
    Oddometer:
    10,219
    Location:
    Hanover, NH USA
    I specifically in June asked the MOTOZ rep about the cracking and he said that they've fixed the issue for a while now as I mentioned it was a 2019 set we had with those problems. Shame that it's still causing problems.
  16. Ikeya-Seki

    Ikeya-Seki Been here awhile Supporter

    Joined:
    May 30, 2017
    Oddometer:
    260
    Location:
    New Hampshire
    They are holding up in harsh conditons, but the cracking does not inspire confidence. I’m putting a new one on next week.
    Katokin and AdamChandler like this.
  17. Ikeya-Seki

    Ikeya-Seki Been here awhile Supporter

    Joined:
    May 30, 2017
    Oddometer:
    260
    Location:
    New Hampshire
    Sit Rep: Camped trailside in Idleyld Park, Oregon. Planning a stop n Ashland/Medford for supples & repairs.

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    Not a bad campsite. Trickling water was in stereo.

    View attachment 3148796

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    Caught Sleeping.
    Ginger Beard, snglfin, xcsks and 5 others like this.
  18. Ikeya-Seki

    Ikeya-Seki Been here awhile Supporter

    Joined:
    May 30, 2017
    Oddometer:
    260
    Location:
    New Hampshire
    Sit Rep: Kicked out of the Umpqua National Forest…..well, technically not let back in due to the Jack Fire AA4ABE15-8947-444E-8B3A-07C2085E937C.jpeg in the Patch Complex. I will see if I can get back in a couple days from now. Otherwise, I will pick up the TAT as close to where I was rerouted as possible and continue to Port Orford.

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    Last night’s campsite photo that did not load properly.

    RR to follow.

    Ikeya-Seki, out.
    P.S. - Adam, I had 7 psi in my front tire for well over 300 miles (lots of sand) and no issues at all. Motoz are rugged, even if they crack. The front is fine, wearing evenly and no cracks. Rear is toast. Appx. 5000 miles.
  19. scimmione

    scimmione n00b

    Joined:
    Nov 8, 2018
    Oddometer:
    4
    Location:
    italy venice
    great job!
    how do you feel with the garmin zumo xt...
    best regards from Italy
    Ikeya-Seki likes this.
  20. Ikeya-Seki

    Ikeya-Seki Been here awhile Supporter

    Joined:
    May 30, 2017
    Oddometer:
    260
    Location:
    New Hampshire
    The Garmin XT is okay. Not my favorite, but it gets the job done. I prefer buttons I can feel and push rather than a touch screen when on a motorcycle. It also functions better with a PC rather than OS computer system.
    snglfin and AdamChandler like this.