NO LONGER producing .... BLITZ BUTTONS (updated December 2020) THIS post has links to the important bits to make your own. I know there are a lot of words here but I would bet I answer all your questions in this one post so please take the time to read it through. For those that wish to purchase a set, instead of building your own, we have here a turnkey DEDICATED Bluetooth remote and handlebar button set compatible with the full version of the RallyBlitz Nav Pro app for the iPad mini. They also work with the newly released Rally Navigator roadbook app as well as the Android MDR Roadbook app!! Keep in mind these are based on 'development boards' and not a purpose built set of circuitry so while stable they are not 100% foolproof 100% of the time. What I am offering is a way to save you having to source all the parts and bits and figure out how to program the boards. You may still have to tinker occasionally, like updating the firmware, etc. What these buttons WONT do: They won't work with a traditional paper setup and aren't intended to compete with F2R/ICO/LPR controls. The M8 connector version (without buttons) is the only type to integrate with traditional controls like F2R/ICO/LPR, giving existing paper roadbook users a simple digital option for training without threat of wrecking their expensive nav gear. The buttons will also only connect to one device at a time. They are meant to work with one app running on one device at a time. The CNC aluminum button housings/bar clamps are produced through Highway Dirt Bikes. The buttons themselves are metal housings and waterproof/dustproof. The backs of the switches and wires are sealed with potting silicone (non-corrosive). The Bluetooth boards used are based on BT 4.0 and will only work with iPhone 4s and newer. Any cellular version of the iPad Mini is fine. When shopping for an Android Tablet be aware that it needs Bluetooth 4 to work with the buttons, check the specs as they are all over the place. The boards are the Adafruit Feather 32u4, programmed with the latest HID keyboard emulator programming. They are primarily powered by the USB cable and have backup power from a small battery in the case. When plugged into a USB port the switches are automatically powered on. The toggle switch on the case allows for the internal battery to power the device and battery charging if connected to a USB connection. There is battery charging/discharging safety built into the board but as with any battery these days be mindful to turn the device off and make sure all the lights are off on when done. I would strongly recommend the BlueSeas USB ports wired with a 5amp fuse to the battery to supply power to the iPad mini and the button set. The master device (Ipad, iphone or similar) has to pair with the remote device (Blitz Buttons in this case). Master devices can have more than one remote BT device connected at a time but you can only connect a remote device to one master at a time. If you encounter connection problems, go to BT settings on the master device and 'forget' the device in the bluetooth connection manager, then turn off BT on iPad using the slider widget, wait 10 seconds, turn BT back on, then turn on buttons and 'pair' via ipad. These are the three types of button sets that I am producing now. Buttons are all red and black. All the buttons will work with a continuous push and will scroll continuously or change the odometer until released. 5 Button version Toggle version Buttons functions NEW M8 cable Model!! For those who already have a traditional roadbook and ODO setup and want to try Digital Rally here is your solution. You use your existing ICO/F2R/RNS buttons/toggles and just use the standard M8 connectors to connect to this enclosure. Here is some helpful info on how the slightly odd power setup works on the devices: Down and Up for the power toggle are relative to the logo and silver screw heads being the top of the device. Without the USB cable plugged in and the black rubber toggle down the device is completely off. If you plugin the USB cable it will turn on and you will see the blinking red light through the lid/top. If you then raise the toggle you should still see the red blinking light and also a yellow light at the other end. The yellow light means it is charging the small internal battery. The battery is meant to keep the device running for short periods if you lose USB power but won't run it very long (a couple of hours or so) if the USB is disconnected. This is how I suggest you use the device when navigating. The board seamlessly transitions from USB to Battery power and back without a hiccup. You can turn on the device (assuming the battery is charged) by raising the toggle when not connected to USB. You can't over drain or over charge the battery but I wouldn't leave it plugged in for days on end to a live USB port. The translucent sections of the lid to the enclosure allows you to see the status of the board via its 3 lights. When you power it on there is a red flashing light. Once paired there is a solid blue light and when charging the onboard battery there is a yellow light at the other end of the board. The board enclosures are highly water resistant but not totally waterproof and should be placed somewhere they won't get drenched and remove before washing the bike. Here is a quick video showing how the buttons work with the Rally Blitz Pro app. _________________________________________________ _________________________________________________ This is one option for a quick removal, self contained setup. I have had a few questions on what the latest mounting options are for a lite setup. This is what I have been running lately. I have thousands of km so far with no issues, even with some good offs, drops and compressions. It comes on or off the bike in one piece in less than 5 minutes if I just leave the Ram mount on the bars. The only 'modifications' I did were to drill the back RAM plate to match the tablet holder because I was impatient on trying to find the right RAM part to fit and then to put two sheet metal screws into the back slider portion of the tablet holder since it is only spring loaded and I wanted it a bit more secure but it might work fine as is. You can see the screws on either side of the BT button controller box. Also a few well placed holes for some wire management zip-ties, don't pull too tight. The case is the Lifeproof Nuud case for iPad mini 2 (get the correct version for your ipad mini) https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00IL7FMLQ Dual USB Charging port Https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01AHYC88A/ref=twister_B074WV2N4R?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1 Fused SAE battery connector, long enough to reach near handlebars https://burnsmoto.com/products/heavy-duty-sae-battery-lead-12-24-36-or-48?variant=38098461767 (my connection/plug I made to match a power lead I already had setup so it doesn't represent the link above) The iPad mini holder is the RAM Mount http://www.gpscity.com/ram-mount-ra...nch-tablets-in-heavy-duty-case-ram-hol-tab29u RAM C Sized (1.5" ball) metal parts: Plate for back of iPad holder http://www.gpscity.com/ram-mount-rectangular-2-x-2.5-inch-plate-with-1.5-inch-ball Standard length arm http://www.gpscity.com/ram-mount-standard-length-dual-1.5-inch-socket-arm U-bolt for handlebars http://www.gpscity.com/ram-mount-large-dual-zinc-u-bolt-base-c-ball-ram-235-15z Here is how I mount it on my Frame Mount Highway Dirt Bikes rally kit. Here is the RAM plate mounted on the top clamp (also HDB). What the buttons look like mocked up on the bars. The black cable would be ziptied safely to the bars, this was just a quick mockup to show the buttons on the bars of a bike. The bottom two buttons can rotate a bit, side to side, to personalize the fit as you wish, just an allen bolt accessible on the back. This is probably the cheapest way to try out Rally Navigation short of a tupperware setup where you are hand turning the roadbook.