BMW F650GS Accessory Fuse Box Install

Discussion in 'Thumpers' started by sellmeyer, Jan 29, 2009.

  1. sellmeyer

    sellmeyer Been here awhile

    Joined:
    Mar 4, 2007
    Oddometer:
    410
    Location:
    Aspen, Colorado USA
    ***The following is an excerpt of a rather lengthy modification process that our two Dakars underwent just before our Summer travels***
    -if I can get the parts compiled in one volume I'll post a link to the download; in the meantime I am posting the excerpts

    REF a J&M JMCB 2003-DU installation here:
    http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?p=9666751

    This installation was performed on two 2001 Single-Spark F650GS Dakars.

    Accessory fuse box Installation

    Fuse Box Inspiration
    The single spark bikes have a 4-position ATO-style fuse box which allows for no additional accessories beyond the factory heated grips. I intended to install all kinds of crap on the bike and I wanted a clean and tidy installation so I opted to add a second fuse box. I chose to add the BMW 8-position ATM-style fuse box standard on dual-spark bikes. I purchased the fuse box, fuse box cover, attachment bracket, and rubber dust cover from BMW.

    [​IMG]
    Figure 10: accessory fuse box parts
    Grommet, fuse box, cover

    I discovered the fuse box did not ship with electrical connectors for the wiring so I had to order those separately. Rusty Gill at Max BMW helped find the connectors; they were discovered on the BMW automotive side of the business. This was initially very frustrating but Rusty found them and all was well, happily ever after and all that crap.

    [​IMG]
    Figure 11: fuse holders

    [​IMG]
    Figure 12: fuse holder installed on wire

    I learned that two white keys had to be removed before the fuse holders could be inserted into the fuse box. I popped them out from the fuse box using a small, flat-head screwdriver to pry out the tops. This is a delicate operation both during removal and re-installation.

    [​IMG]
    Figure 13: accessory fuse box with keys removed

    [​IMG]
    Figure 14: accessory fuse box wired with keys re-installed

    [​IMG]
    Figure 15: accessory fuse box assembled with fuse holders
    Note the absence of fuse holders in position 6 as will as the presence of the white 'key inserted between the terminals on the even side (r/h).

    Fuse Box Installation
    I mounted the new accessory fuse box adjacent to the OE fuse box and was able to tuck it inside the metal hoop that holds the fuel filter/pressure regulator, OE fuse box, and which attaches to the underside of the airbox. The fuse box cover is a little tricky to get off unless the BMS computer is flipped out of the way; then it is easy. I think this was the most logical location as it did not require giving up any space; say like the tool-roll location in front of the fuel pump assembly as is the case on the GSPD models.

    [​IMG]
    Figure 16: accessory fuse box prepared for installation
    Note the OE fuse box below it; the new fuse box has #10 ring terminals installed on the black leads for connection to the power source while the red leads are left long to run to the various accessories.

    [​IMG]
    Figure 17: accessory fuse box installed
    Note the metal band on the r/h side of the airbox bolt; the band is stainless steel and simply wraps around the steel hoop to provide a means of attaching the fuse box to the hoop. The metal band is held in place with two small screws with acorn nuts on the back side. The fuse box can slide on and off the band just as the OE unit does below it.

    In order to power the fuse box I chose to install a sealed 30-amp relay. I bought one for $7 from Radio Shack; I found a 40-amp unit that looked really nice at NAPA but they wanted $30 for it so I went the cheap route and figured 30-amps was more than I could pull anyway. I used 10AWG to wire the relay to the battery and to the fuse box. The power supply to the fuse box terminates into a #8 stainless steel screw; #8 terminal rings are used to connect the supply lead and the leads coming from the fuse box.

    [​IMG]
    Figure 18: accessory fuse box relay installed
    Note the 30-amp relay positioned where the old flasher unit was previously installed; the new flasher is at the top of the frame and simply sits loosely in the equipment box. The red leads at the right are 10AWG and go to the battery and to the accessory fuse box.

    The switch power was tricky but I found two sources and used them both. One came from the back of the Load Relief relay in the electrical equipment box. The second came from the back of the instrument cluster harness; also in the same box. This combo permits power to the fuse box when the bike is in PARK or when ON. I was able to remove most of the electrical equipment box to gain access to the back side of the equipment tray; the both taps were made on the back side. I put a 1-amp diode on the Load Relief Relay side to prevent backflow of current to that lead when in PARK mode. The PARK side did not require a diode because it receives power in either mode.

    [​IMG]
    Figure 19: load relief relay tapped to supply switch power to accessory fuse box relay
    Note that I tapped the #2 lead with the green and black wire

    [​IMG]
    Figure 20: parking light tapped for secondary switched power to accessory fuse box
    Note that the gray and black lead from the #1 position of the instrument cluster wiring harness is tapped; this lead goes to the parking light.

    I ended up connecting the fuse box to the relay-supplied power via 10AWG wire and a #10 stainless steel stud. The smaller wires from the fuse box terminate into ring terminals which are secured to the stud. In similar fashion, most devices powered by the fuse box are grounded via ring terminals attached to an extra long stainless steel subframe bolt. This grounding bolt is on the upper-R/H side of the subframe just above the fuel tank. On this stud I have also attached a 6AWG grounding strap that goes back to the negative terminal on the battery.

    [​IMG]
    Figure 21: fully wired accessory fuse box
    Note that the grounding bolt is just visible on the l/h side of the frame where the subframe and main frame meet. Red and black leads can be traced from the electrical equipment box, on the r/h side, back to the accessory fuse box. Also the grounding strap is visible in the upper r/h side of the frame as well. Everything is wrapped in 3M Temflex friction tape.

    One little trick that I pulled involved the OE accessory plug that is located on the lower L/H side of the bike along the engine frame. This BMW option added an ATO fuse that is supposed to stack onto the R/H connector stack; which is attached to the metal hoop I mentioned previously. This stack is pretty tough to manage with four things on it...and the fuse is really difficult to get at if it needs to be replaced...so I simply cut off the ATO fuse holder and wired those leads directly into the new accessory fuse box. I left everything else as it was so that this accessory socket is still attached directly to the battery rather than powered only when the bike is ON or in PARK modes. It was a slick way of re-locating the fuse and standardizing it as an ATM like the others in the accessory fuse box.

    [​IMG]
    Figure 22: electrical connector stack
    The electrical is visible 3-deep with the ATO fuse separated. I cut off the ATO fuse and wired it directly into the accessory fuse box

    Fuse Box Mapping
    I used 7 of the 8 positions and the arrangement looks like this:

    position 1 – 2 GPS receivers on 3-amp fuse, 18AWG wire
    position 2 – PIAA 510-series driving lights on 10-amp fuse, 16AWG wire
    position 3 – JMCB-2003 CB radio/intercom on 5-amp fuse, 18AWG wire
    position 4 – future Gerbings heated clothing dual-controller on 15-amp fuse, 16AWG wire
    position 5 – not used
    position 6 – front Powerlet socket on instrument cluster on 10-amp fuse, 16AWG wire
    position 7 – middle OE BMW socket on L/H side on 15-amp fuse, 16AWG wire
    position 8 – rear Powerlet socket behind fuel tank cap on 15-amp fuse, 16AWG wire

    [​IMG]
    Figure 23: accessory fuse box with fuses installed
    #1
  2. Railbender

    Railbender Long timer Supporter

    Joined:
    Oct 3, 2006
    Oddometer:
    1,200
    Location:
    NW PA
    Thanks for the great post. Do you know the part number for the electrical connectors?

    :freaky
    #2
  3. sellmeyer

    sellmeyer Been here awhile

    Joined:
    Mar 4, 2007
    Oddometer:
    410
    Location:
    Aspen, Colorado USA
    Yes, the electrical connectors documented in the second photo from the top are listed as:

    61 13 1 357 705 BMW Electrical Connector, fuse holder $0.60


    You will have luck finding this part if you ask your BMW Moto Parts Shop to look over in the Automotive Line. They should be able to punch the number in and pull up the listing, but if they have to search they will find them in the Automotive Area of BMW Parts.

    -Good luck.

    FYI, this installation is very clean and works really well, but it is a bit expensive. While the cost of the box isn't much there are added costs associated with all of the wiring and lugs you have to buy. I think I may have spent $140 to buy parts and materials for doing this install on two bikes.

    Apart from the fuse box, you need:
    relay
    lugs
    fuses
    assorted lengths and gauges of wires
    heat shrink tubing
    solder
    3m COTTON FRICTION TAPE to wrap everything when you are finished
    etc.

    Anyway, we're very happy with the install

    good luck
    #3
  4. GSjoyride

    GSjoyride Been here awhile

    Joined:
    Apr 28, 2008
    Oddometer:
    276
    Location:
    Marina, CA
    +1

    how long did this job take to do on one bike?

    looking to do the same thing :thumb

    cheers
    #4
  5. sellmeyer

    sellmeyer Been here awhile

    Joined:
    Mar 4, 2007
    Oddometer:
    410
    Location:
    Aspen, Colorado USA
    Time to do this mod???

    It is really hard to say for sure because I was doing so much work at the time and learning along the way.

    Let me put it this way, having done this twice before and having everything I need on hand, I would estimate that it would take a long day's worth of work to install everything that connected to the fuse box (as listed above). The radio took a while to sort out and certainly that contributes to the length of the day.


    The real time suck for me was getting all of the parts together. I had to gather everything as I figured out what I needed. I wasted a lot of time shopping. Having already generated the know-how, you are at an advantage on the learning curve, but there is still quite a bit to buy.

    ***If you are bent on doing this too, you will be well served to map out EXACTLY what you want to do and then build a bill of materials sheet before you begin shopping. A check-list, or set of step-by step instructions will help you be efficient along the way too.

    Here is a comprehensive breakdown of what I bought (my BOM)...I don't think I left more than 10% out of this list.

    PLEASE EXCUSE THE LENGTH...full set of notes follow

    Installation of new, accessory fuse box
    A fuse box assembly from the 2-spark models was purchased to allow for better electrical management of accessories
    1 61 13 7 668 603 BMW cover for fuse holder**(CODE A) $4.00 $4.00
    1 61 13 7 668 602 BMW fuse box $12.00 $12.00
    1 61 13 1 382 198 BMW grommet $3.30 $3.30
    1 61 13 1 382 541 BMW bracket, plug connection gray $0.80 $0.80
    14 61 13 1 357 705 BMW Electrical Connector, fuse holder from BMW automobiles $0.60 $8.40
    The fuse box was installed left of the primary fuse box, attached to the underside of the crossbar that locates the seat and holds the airbox in place

    Installation of relay for accessory fuse box
    1 275-226 Radio Shack 30am automotive relay $6.00 $6.00
    This relay was installed in the original location of the turn signal flasher in the electrical equipment box
    It was wired between the battery and the accessory fuse box and the switch was wired to the Load Relief Relay K9109, pin 2, green/black lead
    it has a pair of 10 AWG leads going to the battery and an identical pair going to the accessory fuse box, plus one identical lead to ground


    1 Radio Shack 10A ATM fuses $1.99 $1.99
    1 Radio Shack 15A ATM fuses $1.99 $1.99
    1 Radio Shack 3A ATM fuses $1.99 $1.99
    1 Radio Shack cable ties, 3 sizes $6.99 $6.99
    1 Radio Shack 1.5 oz solder spool, 0.062” $9.19 $9.19
    2 Radio Shack 10AWG #8 ring terminal $0.25 $0.50
    1 Radio Shack 6AWG ground strap $4.29 $4.29
    The ground strap runs from negative battery terminal to the R/H, Top subframe bolt, a M6x45 Stainless Socket cap Bolt
    -All accessories attached to the accessory fuse box are grounded on this bolt to the grounding strap


    1 Radio Shack 18AWG stranded wire spool red $5.39 $5.39
    1 Radio Shack 18AWG stranded wire spool black $5.39 $5.39
    1 Radio Shack heat shrink tubing, assorted package $3.99 $3.99
    1 Radio Shack #8 ring terminal 14-16AWG $1.99 $1.99
    1 Radio Shack 10AWG stranded wire red $5.39 $5.39
    1 Ace socket head bolt, stainless steel M6x45, for grounding strap $2.10 $2.10
    1 Ace misc stainless steel hardware $5.70 $5.70

    I used 3M 1755 Temflex cotton friction tape to wrap exposed wires on the master wiring harness


    The stack of connectors located behind the main fuse box was cleaned up such that 3-connector sets are stacked together
    The 4th in the stack is simply the ATO fuse holder for the original accessory socket; this was cut out of the stack
    The ATO fuse holder was removed to allow for the accessory socket fuse to be integrated into the accessory fuse box

    Two additional accessory sockets were installed.
    The following were purchased direct from Powerlet
    2 Item # PSO001 Powerlet Standard Socket $15.95 $31.90
    2 Item # PMI011 Powerlet Right Angle Rubber Boot $3.95 $7.90
    One is located on the lower right black plastic of the instrument panel
    This socket will supply power to a tank bag
    A second socket is installed directly aft of the fuel tank filling port; between the tank and the R/H exhaust pipe
    This socket will supply power to a passenger w/heated clothing, or to the R/H pannier



    The following is the configuration of the accessory fuse box
    Position 1-8 Wire Type Purpose Fuse MAX AMPS
    Position 1 18 AWG – Stranded GPS, 2 each 3 Amp 18 Amp
    Position 2 16 AWG – Stranded PIAA 510 Driving lights 10 Amp 24 Amp
    Position 3 18 AWG – Stranded JMCB-2003 CB radio 3 Amp 18 Amp
    Position 4 16 AWG – Stranded Not Used N/A 24 Amp
    Position 5 N/A N/A N/A -
    Position 6 16 AWG – Stranded Front Accessory Socket 10 Amp 24 Amp
    Position 7 16 AWG – Stranded Middle Accessory Socket 15 Amp 24 Amp
    Position 8 16 AWG – Stranded Rear Accessory Socket 15 Amp 24 Amp
    maximum usage rating is 30 amps as provided by relay
    Position #4 may be used for Gerbings Heated Clothing Hookup
    reference Gerbings Permanent Dual Temp Controller $119
    Gerbings published specifications rated amps rated watts
    Heated Jacket Liner 6.4 77
    Heated Liner Pants 3.6 44
    Gloves or liner glove 2.2 27
    socks 2.2 27
    total for whole system 14.4 175

    A likely usage scenario is as follows rated amps
    jacket and gloves 8.6
    Gps & radio 5
    PIAA lights 7
    Total amps 20.6

    relocation of existing GPS harness
    The power cable/harness for the Garmin GPS III+ was removed from the battery and installed in the front beak
    It was wired into the accessory fuse box
    ***advise installation of a capacitor in line with the GPS harness to prevent power drop out during motorcycle start.
    !!!advise against installation of capacitor due to requirement of having a diode in the circuit; which affects voltage reading on GPS


    Installed additional GPS harness
    1 G10587 Touratech Garmin Bare Wire Power & Audio Cable for 276C, 376C $29.00 $29.00
    This was installed with the existing power cable for the Garmin GPS III+ and located behind the instrument cluster for future use
    The inline fuse which shipped with the harness was removed because it is tied into the accessory fuse box now
    2 GCCAP Touratech Vinyl Weather Cap for Garmin Round Power Cord $2.00 $4.00
    installed on each harness to cover connector when not in use



    repaired broken hibeam lead and lug
    I reused the original lug because I didn't have a suitable replacement; it is in okay shape and functions just fine
    I had to splice in some additional 16 AWG to the lead to get it to reach the connector

    PIAA aux light modification
    The PIAA 510 driving lights were wired into the accessory fuse box and the OEM switch was removed
    61 31 1 459 234 eBay; 1995 K1100RS Switch, Heated Handlebar Grips/Htd Seat (L=700MM) $31.00 $10.00
    The switch was wired to the PIAA harness as follows
    Middle position, white 22AWG wire from PIAA harness
    Left Position, to tap on L/H combo switch connector, pin 4, white wire for high beam
    Right position to tap on Load Relief Relay K9109, pin 2, green/black lead
    The result is an on-off-on switch
    when switched left, the PIAA lights come on when the high beam is on; or when the high beam flasher is activated
    when switched right, the PIAA lights come on and stay turned on until the switch is turned back to OFF





    Stainless steel sheet stock to fab the bracket that attaches the fuse box to the metal hoop
    a few small machine screws to attach the bracket to the hoop

    Ace socket head bolt, stainless steel M8x45, for grounding strap $2.10 $2.10

    Radio Shack 3amp 50PIV epoxy rectifier diode pkg of 2 $1.36 $1.36
    Radio Shack cable ties, 3 sizes $6.99 $6.99


    ****at one point I purchased some better quality terminals from McMaster Carr than I could get at Radio Shack***
    -I think I used these on the 2nd bike and had plenty of left-overs
    1 9388K35 mcmaster carr Heavy Duty 5/16 (M8) ring terminal yellow, 16-12AWG, nylon insulation, 10 $4.53 $4.53
    1 9388K34 mcmaster carr Heavy Duty ΒΌ ring terminal yellow, 16-12AWG, nylon insulation, 10 $4.53 $4.53
    1 9388K33 mcmaster carr Heavy Duty #10 ring terminal yellow, 16-12AWG, nylon insulation, 10 $3.92 $3.92
    #5
  6. sellmeyer

    sellmeyer Been here awhile

    Joined:
    Mar 4, 2007
    Oddometer:
    410
    Location:
    Aspen, Colorado USA
    FYI,

    This post documents a single part of a series of mods/updates to our motorbikes. I'm going to post several more write-ups to close out what work was performed.

    The full list includes the following:

    adding Hazard Lights to a single spark F650GS
    adding the heated grip switch to the r/h combo switch
    Retrofitting the old BMW heated grip switch to control aux lights
    electrifying a tankbag as well as a pannier
    installing front and rear power outlets
    permanent installation of Garmin GPS III+ above instrument stack

    installing a JMCB-2003 CB Radio
    http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?p=9666751

    installing tamper-resistant hardware to RAM mounts


    -cheers
    #6
  7. sellmeyer

    sellmeyer Been here awhile

    Joined:
    Mar 4, 2007
    Oddometer:
    410
    Location:
    Aspen, Colorado USA
    A link to the J&M JMCB 2003 radio is provided above
    #7