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Discussion in 'Thumpers' started by Eddy Alvarez, Apr 22, 2016.
I plan to do things incrementally....depending on how the bike handles.
A. Slide the forks down flush with the top of the triple clamps.
B. Install RR Level 2 fork kit.
C. Depending on how A. and B. above go, then I'll decide on shocks and/or lowering the rear.
Along the way I plan to try a Seat Concepts "Tall" seat I already have, bar risers of several heights, foot pegs covers to enlarge standing area and maybe lower pegs, a 17T sprocket I already have...may end up going back to the stock 16T or even down to a 15T.
Nothing preconceived, just plan to experiment and change as needed.
Once I have things sorted, I plan to put the 310 on a diet starting with an exhaust system and see if I can get the weight down.
I have a plan it just takes time and money to execute it .
As far as I know, Rally Raid does not sell the Level-2 fork parts separately from the Level-2 shock.
And IIRC, the only difference between the RR Level-1 and Level-2 fork components are spacers/blocks to extend the length of the forks to match what is supposed to be a taller rear shock.
I bought my Level-2 shock from another inmate who had sold his bike and the new owner was not interested in the higher-spec shock.
As far as putting the GS on a diet, some of the biggest weight savings I found so far has been in removing the passenger footpeg brackets (~4lbs per side) and saving over 4.5 pounds of high-mounted weight by swapping the stock SLA battery to a Lithium cell battery (which also improved starting!).
Oh, and the Rally Raid/TracTive Level-2 rear shock assembly is just over 2 pounds lighter than the stock unit!!!
I have been looking at the concept of getting a high-mount header pipe and fitting the stock muffler canister to that.
The point would be to maintain the stock quietness and emissions while being able to drop weight through the removal of the right passenger peg bracket, the lower exhaust mount, and at least a foot of exhaust pipe.
Like this owner did on their G310R
This is the header pipe and exhaust hanger that I am looking at:
I am absolutely positive that the tiny can they include would be WAY too loud for my taste, but the price for the whole kit is not bad even to just get the header, heat shield, and hangar bracket.
And, it has the bung welded into the header for the oxygen sensor as well.
I am sure that the RR Level-1 shock would indeed be a big upgrade over the stock rear shock/spring unit, and I did seriously consider going for that unit or even the low version of the Level-1.
But yes, I did want the fully separated compression as well as both high & low speed compression damping adjustments rather than the combined rebound/compression dial on the Level-1 unit.
Not to mention that I got a smokin' deal on the unit; and since I was driving right by the home of the seller, I didn't even shell out for shipping!
It was just too tempting to pass up.
I already ordered a Dominator GP1 exhaust...price was very reasonable and we'll see about the noise and the quality when it gets here. I am OK with louder but not obnoxious.
The previous owner installed a center stand...it may come off if I get serious about the weight but it sure is nice for doing maintenance.
If I make a shock swap, I'd probably go for the level 2 unit just because I'd want the increased travel if I am going to swap...I could always copy your shock mount mod if I need to drop the rear to increase the rake angle...why I really like the documentation you provided .
Of course Cogent is an option as well as buying just a fork spring from Tractive or any spring supplier but I am hoping RR will work with me...Jen and John back at the RR shop have been super helpful on my BMW as well as the 500X I owned so RR will be my first option .
Regarding weight reduction: when I bought my bike I left the passenger pegs (and brackets) on, but I understand there are options out there to mount the silencer in the stock location now - there is a bracket for the R model which I imagine can be easily adapted to the GS subframe/seat side panel too for example.
The other option as Zen suggests is a higher level pipe, but they do seem to be very noisy as the header is so short, and there is no cat. in there to help dampen the sound either... however, the Scorpion Serket silencer I had on my bike, despite being quite large still (and therefore quiet enough) was still about half the weight of the OEM silencer, so there is a saving there, plus I also took the OEM rear rack and handles off and fitted R model grab handles instead, plus the R&G tail tidy which also saves a bunch of weight and bulk.
If you're in trail mode, you could even remove the stock mirrors (and/or use the removable DoubleTake ones like I did) - although there does come a point where the everyday usability of a bike starts to become compromised once the pursuit of weight reduction over takes you!
ps. One suggestion I do always make if you're planning on going on an extended trip, is to discipline yourself into packing like and use a rack-less bag like the Giant Loop Coyote - that saves a bunch of overall weight right there.
Thanks JMo...all good pointers. I have the Double Take mirrors standing by, hopefully I can get them installed before I break the OEM ones .
I'll eventually go over the bike and approach it from the standpoint of if you remove an ounce in sixteen places you have removed a pound. So each little bit adds up in the long run.
Forks are flush with the top triple clamp, I just need to torque the pinch bolts properly. If somebody could verify that 19 NM/14 Ft lbs is the correct torque on the pinch bolts, I sure would appreciate it.
Also need the torque for the bolt that goes through the center of the front sprocket...please.
I will be VERY interested in seeing photos and hearing your opinion of the Dominator exhaust!
Are you getting the high-mount version?
As far as the added weight of the center stand, yes the full center stand kit does add about 6 pounds to the bike, but at the absolutely lowest point possible on the bike, so you really don't feel the weight at all when riding, nor when having to pick the bike up from a dirt nap. (DAMHIK...)
Thanks for the torques guys you are awesome . Are those pages available online somewhere so I won't have to harass anyone next time I need a torque?
Zen...I went with the low pipe and the GP1 muffler...the GP1 is the shortest. lightest, and probably the loudest. It hasn't shipped yet but I'll post some pics and comments when I get it installed.
I sure am enjoying the center stand while installing my 17T sprocket and checking the chain tension. I agree it is in the best location as far as weight goes...centered at the bottom. But in the long run it is going to have to come off...this old MX racer just can't handle having a motorcycle with a center stand...heck race bikes don't even have a kick stand and this old boy is going to feel pretty racey after I get everything finished .
What Lithium battery did you guys purchase and where?
The torque spec image I shared is a screen shot from the BMW service disk for the bike.
It is well worth the investment if you do much of your own maintenance, which it sounds like you do.
As far as the center-stand, with the lowered rear suspension there is an issue with the stock center-stand height.
It takes a LOT more effort to deal with the extra lift distance.
In the short term, I have just rolled the rear wheel up onto a board to assist when I am at home.
During my winter trip with the lowering link installed along with the OEM rear shock I just had to use extra muscle when I wanted to do chain maintenance or to check the oil level.
Long-term, I may have to go the adjustable leg route that I did with the sidestand.
I went with the AntiGravity brand, the model I went with is the ATZ-10 with ReStart (ATZ-10-RS).
There are several of the small-case AntiGravity batteries which would also have enough power to crank the G310.
And because I tend to over-analyze everything, here is a small spreadsheet I put together of battery options:
The prices may be a bit out of date, so be aware of that.
(and I believe that the prices listed for the AntiGravity batteries include the veteran's discount that they offer)
PbEq Ah = Lead-acid Equivelant Amp-Hours. (Due to differences in safe discharge levels between lead-acid and lithium batteries)
CCA = Cold Cranking Amps. (A measure of a battery's available cranking power at low temperatures)
Reference CA = warm weather cranking energy.
The Shorai batteries require a proprietary charger.
The AntiGravity batteries advertise that their batteries are made in the USA.
What BMWzenrider said. I always get a factory shop manual. One of the cheapest and best accessories you can get for your bikes.
Yeah, I've got some shim material around I could use to center the 1/2" bore over the M10 threads. Or I could just drill it out. I haven't dug through Mcmaster's catalog of spacers too deeply, but one exactly suitable for an M10 didn't come up easily.
I had to have my battery replaced under warranty from the very get go! (600 miles I think)
Seems BMW got a bad bunch of batteries.
I agree 100%. Where is the best place to get the 310GS shop manual and is it available in a printed version or just electronic?
I could search but figured you guys already have the answers .
Batteries...for those "Thrify" individuals out there like me, Chrome Battery has a sealed AGM battery for $32.90 and that includes delivery to your door in two days...usually: https://www.chromebattery.com/ytx9-bs-high-performance-power-sports-battery.html
I have used batteries from Chrome battery for a while and they have lasted quite well for me...outlasting the high dollar Yuasa I purchased.
It comes on disk with what appears to be BMW's entire lineup. Your dealer should be able to take care of you.
The interface is a bit wonky, but not too bad once you get the hang of navigating it.
Thanks MichaelJ...my dealer is getting to know me pretty well.
Actually we already knew each other quite well so they just smile when they see me coming .