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Discussion in 'Thumpers' started by Eddy Alvarez, Apr 22, 2016.
The dealer does not change oil on a regular 600 m service. BMW does not call for it.
Aren't they just looking for manufactuing "issues" early on in an effort to head off long term problems?
Limited Edition G310GS in corvette yellow.
My wife's bike. She crashed it pretty hard on the NW Passage last fall. Due to covid factory shutdowns, it took forever to get her new plastics.
Then it took another eternity to find a painter.
The result... her custom yellow (Corvette yellow) color scheme. I found yellow pressure caps for her tool tubes... a perfect match. Put her wolfman luggage on and her rotopax.
Almost ready to go. Still thinking about those yellow VPS barkbuster plastics and we need tank logos along with tank pads to protect the new paint. Also have to install her new crashbars.
Add her yellow duffle bag and she's back in business. She was asking about a custom seat job too match. Maybe.... hmmm...
Anyways, what do you think so far?
I recently did the 600 mile (1000 km) run-in service for my G310GS, after reassurance that proper documentation that I performed the work would retain the three year factory warranty.
The work isn't difficult to do and is a great way to learn about your trusty steed, and that learning will make it easier to maintain the bike in the future. Example: I saw the site glass on the side of the front brake fluid reservoir after removing the cap to check the fluid level, and dribbling a few drops of brake fluid down the side of the reservoir, which I immediately washed off to avoid damaging the finish.
You'll need a good OBDII dongle to reset the SERVICE annunciator on the dash. The cheap import dongles won't do it. I used the OBDLink LX OBD2 Bluetooth Scanner. Search for B00H9S71LW on Amazon. I used the Motoscan app on an Android phone with the $30 in-app purchase to upgrade it to reset the SERVICE annunciator.
You'll need a torque wrench to adjust the steering head bearing.
I remember changing the break-in mineral oil in my old Suzuki DR350 and the new synthetic oil made the DR shift gears like a wet dream. I didn't see much improvement with the initial oil change on the baby GS, but the shifting wasn't bad before the oil change.
I bought some upgrades for my 2019 G310GS last winter and finally installed them as part of the 600 mile run-in check a couple of weeks ago, and the electronics upgrades continued a few hours at a time, intermittently throughout last week. The easiest and possibly best bang for the buck was the LED lighting. The tail light on the 2020 and earlier G310GS is LED but everything else was incandescent. I swapped them all for LED bulbs. The parking light (to the side of the headlamp) is much brighter. It's essentially a backup headlamp. The new LED headlamp is subjectively twice as bright as the original halogen and a brighter white instead of yellowish. The four turn signals are subjectively three times brighter and should enhance safety.
Here's an Amazon shopping list for the parts I used, although there are certainly other parts that are compatible. These are all simple drop-in replacements for the G310GS incandescent lighting on the 2020 and earlier models, with no rapid flashing or anything like that.
Parking Light (adjacent to the headlight)
The hardest part of the job is taking out the two screws on the sides of the headlight assembly and prying it out of the beak and reinstalling it. There's a trick to it but it defies description. Removing or reinstalling the headlight assembly doesn't seem topologically possible. It's possible because I've done it a few times, but it requires a combination of finesse and judicious violence.
The owner's manual describes the bulb replacements, which are fairly trivial. There's a little wire clip to secure the headlamp. The parking light is a blade style that presses into place. The turn signal bulbs press and twist with a bayonet base. The LED bulbs are larger and barely fit, but don't get hot enough to melt the plastic lens.
While the headlight assembly is out, I recommend removing the nut clips on the sides and reinstalling them with RTV silicone sealant so they stay in place when the headlight assembly is removed or installed.
Some online instructions recommend removing a lot of plastic panels to access the area inside the beak. That's a lot of wasted time and hassle. Removing the headlight assembly is sufficient and is MUCH easier than pulling plastic panels with all of those screws that are difficult to access. There are two short wires with BMW connectors emerging from the back of the instrument panel. I removed the blank plugs in the connectors and used mating crimp connectors I bought on eBay from a Canadian seller to wire everything to these two accessory switched circuits (7 amps each max, I think?) that are only powered when the bike is ON so any connected devices won't drain the battery. I didn't splice into any of the original bike wiring. I left a pigtail with two pairs of quick disconnect connectors so I can easily add 6000 lumens of auxiliary LED lighting on the front forks, and maybe a heated seat if I decide to update to a Seat Concepts seat.
Once the headlamp is LED there is no need to shock mount the headlight assembly to prevent the filament from damage when vibrating while hot. I removed the U-shaped headlight mounting assembly, removed the three rubber bushings, added large stainless washers under the heads of the three screws, and rigidly reinstalled the headlight mounting assembly.
That eliminated the annoying headlight flickering that kept me from seeing well at night because my brain perceived the flickering as motion that distracted me from seeing what I needed to see. It also prevents oncoming drivers from flashing their headlights at me because they're distracted and annoyed by the rapidly flickering light that could probably induce an epileptic seizure.
I also installed a dual USB charging port on the left side of the handlebars.
Now I can charge my phone which runs the OSMand+ app for offline navigation with no cell service needed so it works anywhere a GPS signal can be received. The phone is mounted to the handlebar with a RAM Quick-Grip phone holder which seems secure enough with my phone for off road use, and the usual RAM Mount ball joint mounting hardware.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005KWPJ04 (or the longer mounting arm)
I installed an Invoxia GPS tracker hidden in the beak, above and behind the headlight. It's the thin black rectangular object at the top of the headlight opening.
It's recharged by a separate USB charger while I ride.
The GPS tracker pings location data every ten minutes, or whenever the parked bike is tilted or jostled, and sends push notices (alarms) to my phone. This is a great peace of mind that should allow me to recover my bike if some dirt bag steals it, by pulling up a map on my phone with all recent locations shown, including the final position.
I installed Koso Apollo heated grips.
The electrical portion wasn't difficult but the mechanical installation was a pain. The sparse instructions were very clear that I was not to alter any parts, even though this is a universal part that doesn't actually fit. I used a coarse rat tail rasp and sandpaper to file down and sand the inside of the right grip and remove the ridges from the throttle sleeve and used RTV to adhere the heated grip to the grip sleeve. I made a taper recess on the inside opening of the right grip to accommodate the flange on the throttle sleeve. I sourced 45mm M8 X 1.25mm cap screws to replace the screw on the right grip that was too short for the new grip length, so I could use an M8 nut and lock washers as a spacer so the bar end weight doesn't bind the throttle.
For the most part, the Koso grips look and operate like factory grips because the control is integrated into the left grip.
It was ironic that I sweated for several hours in a 100 degree Fahrenheit garage installing the heated grips.
As part of the 600 mile oil change, I installed an after market aluminum bash plate that only requires the original four screws to be removed to drop the bash plate when changing the oil. Easy peasy. Free labor when included with an oil change. I installed a radiator guard, 30mm bar riders, and larger foot for the kickstand at the same time.
OK. So maybe not the best high cost upgrades, but I think of it as the best of the cheap stuff on Amazon.
I'm finished with upgrades while the weather is nice. I'm going riding as much as possible. Next winter, I'll install auxiliary LED lighting, a full set of crash bars (even though I'm trying to keep my baby GS as light as possible and the crash bars add 20 pounds), a battery tender connector at the tail that will also allow me to trickle charge my devices when the bike is parked when camping (with low battery voltage cutout so I don't drain the bike's battery so much that it won't start), etc.
Excellent - Thank for sharing all the links….engine guard on order.
I just had mine done at the dealer. I had over 600 on mine at the time - I think it was closer to 700. I might do the oil changes in the future but the first one it is recommended to retorque the bar mounts and bearings which they did. They also reset the maintenance light and did some other inspections. It was $270 in SoCal.
on Realoem I've discovered that starting from January 2019 BMW replaced wht whole handbrake lever group (see below)
Does anyone now which are the changes, is the brake pump still a 13 or they changed with a 12?
(10/01/2019 — ), nonexchangeable retrospectively
Part 32728554124 was found on the following vehicles:
K02 (G 310 GS) (08/2016 — 02/2020)
K03 (G 310 R) (04/2016 — 02/2020)
At the risk of starting a Tire discussion what is everyone liking on these 310s?
I just put a set of Bridgestone Battle Axes on my Tiger 800 and they did pretty good on my last trip, Gravel, tarmac, rain, dry mud we had it all. My only complaint is that the aggressive knobs induce a lot more road noise and vibration. TANSTAAFL...
I just got my Rally Raid Bartless wheels for the baby G so I need to get some shoes for her. I was actually surprised at how well the Tourances did in the gravel but I do want something more aggressive but maybe not the Battle Axes.
I really like the Heidenau K60s. Great on dirt and gravel, and not as noisy as most knobbies on pavement. I know they have a reputation for not doing well on wet pavement. But I live in soggy Oregon, and have ridden thousands of miles on wet pavement since I first started using these tires on my old F800GS more than 10 years ago now, and not once have they ever stepped out on me. Not one single time. After well over 100,000 miles. So I suspect that those who keep repeating this line over and over have never actually had them mounted on their bike. The Internet is full of information. Some of it is true.
Same experience. Off-road /knobbies tires should not be that exposed to rainy asphalt, you have to slow down when on knobbies… They are a hard rubber which gave me 14,000 miles each set on my F800GS. Have ridden 100,000+ miles on Heidenaus, at least 60,000 on dirt/gravel….(on same F800GS, got 7,200 miles out of a set of TKC-80’s) and my next set of tires will definitely be HEIDENAUS K-60’s. You’re right Woodworks, those with a negative report on Heidenaus probably never had them, and got their opinion from an internet review that are often not real-world. But no knobbies are made to head down an interstate at 75-80 + miles an hour.
Few bikes are as rough on tires as the heavy URALS…and the new 2022 Ural’s come from the factory with all around Heidenaus.
I just installed Mitas EO7, I have not done any riding on the bike yet with the new tires. Next week from 11 to the 16 I will be doing the Trans Wisconsin Adventure Trail, it will be combination of Interstate riding, off road section, gravel , some sand and back again on the Interstate. I will give a report after the ride.
After three years and 19000 kms, I put a second tkc 80 on the front. Still a little life left in the old one. I am on the second shinko 805 rear. This has worked well for me ~ 80% gravel and dirt, 20% paved. Slid out once on grassy ruts, and I am not confident in mud so it has gotten sideways. I can say that they are good for nearly all the riding I do (little mud, no sand).
I'd like to try other tires sometime... AX41 or Motoz Adventure or Heidenau or EO7.
I'm a K60 fan. Used them for years now.
Had a K60 from my '09 R1200GSA left over (new). Perfect fit on the wife's 310. I suspect it will last 15K miles given her lightness on the throttle, her weight, etc.. Probably rot before it wears out.
I live in Wa and ride all over BC, Yukon as well. Never a traction problem on rain or pavement (but I don't ride it like a sport bike either... have never gotten a speeding ticket either ). Only other option for me and my bikes would possibly be the Moto GPS Tractionators. Have never tried them. Read that they are just as good or better than the K60s. But, for now I have K60s on all my bikes (save for my R1200GSA sidecar.. I'm running car tires on the rear). For more road oriented riding, I use to run the Metzler Tourances. Got good miles out of those. But for more gravel and dirt travel, I prefer a 50/50 tire.
FWIW... I have ridden 100+ miles on a fully loaded R1200GSA on a flat K60 rear tire in Northern BC. Wasn't going more than 25 mph though. I was riding on dirt and asphalt until I got to a town to get a new tire. I had a 1 inch gash in the center of the tire. I tried triple plugging it w/o success. But, my rims were ok. The sidewalls on those K60s are stiff (I suppose it is the reason why it is so hard to install and remove).
Our bikes... note the tires on all them in our shop
I have a K60 rear off my tiger that I could fit but it is likely the wrong size. My only complaint with the K60s is that up front on the tiger it did not inspire confidence in the dirt. No complaints up front from the Battle Axe...
I do notice that most of you running a K60 rear are running a knob up front? I have read of others doing that combination too and being happy with it..
I got the Rally Raid Fatbar mount and risers all installed along with Cycra CRM Pro bend handguards. I am very very happy with how this improves the ergos..