Separate names with a comma.
Discussion in 'Thumpers' started by GB, Apr 24, 2008.
What is the stuff i spary on the gauge circuit board to seal it?
I believe it's 24 mm on the right leg. I believe the guy milled the right leg to size. The left side the hole is fine the way it is.
The only parts I needed to get were the legs and caliber bracket. The spacers for the caliper the guy made me but I know some others have used flat washers. Oh and I'm thinking I needed longer bolts for the caliper also.
It's been a while since I've done the mod.
This is what I used but you can find an equivalent in your area I'm sure.
Fuel pump assembly woes continue.
I thought I had it fixed and at least the bike is running now, but......
The double male electrical connector for the pump is leaking - when the tank is full or when I turn on the front tank and the fuel is drawn into the main tank. This then shorts out the connector and the pump doesn't work.
Has anybody bypassed the shit 4 pin connector? The issue I see is sealing the plastic after you drill another hole for new wires. I remember seeing someone did a billet replacement of the plastic cover - I'm at the point that I'd pay someone a lot of money to make me a billet one.
How much time do you spend with the bike on top of you? how much time is the bike laying down?
I ask because I just drilled the holes and ran the wire. sealed it with whatever and that was 20,000 miles ago. Yeah its not pretty, but it runs, and runs strong. Does it maybe leak? Yup, especially when it takes a nap. It's a ten year old bike. No longer qualifies as a garage queen.
Gas and ethanol are poor conductors of electricity. If it doesn't short out the exposed connections on the fuel pump then I doubt the fuel is short circuiting the connector. Look for something else as a cause.
Thanks - I'll probably go down this road. Did you cut and connect new wires inside the tank? I think that's what I will do and put a connector on the outside if I want to remove the pump.
When the fuel is in the recess where the wires are it won't prime the pump. Remove the fuel and let it dry out and I'm away.
Has anyone successfully found a way to toggle on and off the anti-lock brake system on our bikes? Disabling it every time I start the bike with the red button is quite a pain when doing days of dirt riding. Eventually I find myself doing my best Evel Knievel impression down the side of a mountain 80 miles an hour with no brakes haha
I tried removing the fuse for the ABS but that also deactivated the speedometer as well as the odometer. With that said it also permanently disabled the ABS
Thanks for the help y'all!
There is an additional fuse holder with a 20 and a 30 amp fuse for the abs. You could try pulling those fuses together or individually to see if that works. Otherwise unplug one of the wheel sensors. That will create a fault condition and disable the abs.
Or do what I did and remove it completely.
@gnarlynate24 What @MJS said works.
I run two wheelsets, the one with the knobby tires has no ABS ring on the front wheel. This creates a faulty system and disables ABS. The speedo still works because it reads the speeds from the rear sensor.
If you want to create a manual on/off switch on the handlebar you could cut try to cut the signal from the ABS sensor and run that through a switch. This is at your own risk though, I havent tried this option.
Thanks for the heads up! I see the fuses you are talking about but had no idea they were for the abs... For some reason I was thinking they were for the starter relay or fan relay I'll experiment with these fuses and see what happens but I'm thinking to put a toggle switch from the front wheel sensor up around the dash but really don't want to cut any of the factory wires....
Thanks so much for the heads up! I think having two sets of wheels is a fantastic idea but for my round the world trip not really possible.
I have been talking with another good friend of mine who ha as the same bike as us and we were talking about cutting the wire to the front wheel sensor to install a switch... I'm still a little gun-shy about cutting the factory wire in case it goes sideways... I was actually thinking about somehow installing a cover over the front wheel sensor that would block the readout... any idea what it would have to be made of to stop the sensor from detecting the the abs ring on the wheel? Thanks for the help and ideas
You could get a couple of matching connectors for where the sensor plugs into the main harness and wire your switch in that way. No cutting needed. I seem to recall someone on the F800GS thread making a kit for this.
Or remove the abs ring from the front wheel if you don't need switchable ABS.
Another option might be to install a spacer on the front wheel sensor to move it away from the ring. I don't know how long the spacer would need to be (8mm maybe) but the sensor distance to the ring has fairly tight tolerances for proper operation. Small aluminium spacer and longer screw would be a cheap, easily reversible modification.
For me I still want to keep the abs switchable for when I do road riding. Otherwise I would just remove all the components to save a bit of weight buuuuuut there's been a couple of times on the road where are the EBS saved my bacon
I'll look for that thread but I'm not really sure how to use these forums because they don't seem very fluid to me... Unlike social media Usually I spent an hour looking for what I'm searching for and then half of the pictures are gone... So you really cannot see what they are talking about haha
Thanks for the help man! I will play with the switch later this week
Dislocate (with velcro or ziptie - it's only one screw to remove) the front wheel sensor and relocate in case you need the ABS-function again.
I think that's the right idea for now! I'll look at a high speed low drag option for installing a switch one of the guys on Facebook should me how he did his in I might play with it later this week as well.
I ran new wires from the pump unit inside the tank to exterior of tank. Used disconnects to join wires outside tank. This way i can still remove the pump should need arise. And it is not pretty but it works. Many posts ago I put a picture up. Made it look slightly better since. Also I linked to a fuel pump with a lifetime warranty. Sub $100 if I recall correctly.
Xers - beware of scammers
I just saved myself being scammed $350 for a ohlins shock. I had posted a WTB ad for a G650x Shock. A user PM'd me saying that a guy he had bought a part from had a shock for sale and gave me his email address. After a bunch of back and forth about the shock, including photos, he wanted me to send payment to his colleagues email address. That caught my eye and seemed odd. I googled his email address and sure enough in other forums users had reported his email and the same exact scam.
I reported to advrider but just a friendly reminder that there are scammers in here so do your due diligence. Paypal only goods/services and google their email address just as a precaution.
I guess I'll stick with my air shock for now. :-(
Initial scam pm reply to my WTB ad "The last time i purchased a headlight from Paul Peterson he mentioned he had one for sale hit him up at firstname.lastname@example.org
you can thank me later"
scam paypal email email@example.com