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Discussion in 'Thumpers' started by GB, Apr 24, 2008.
Could this thing still be alive? It may just need a good rub and tug.
That is what mine looked like. I replaced mine with this: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00T5MKMP2/ref=dp_cerb_2 Not all of the clamps and stuff fit correctly, but its working like a charm. Plenty cheap too. In replacing mine, I did lose my fuel level sensor. I rely on distance run though, so no biggy.
For 20$ there is this one you could try too: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0106ZK50S/ref=dp_cerb_1
Thanks, bro! That is all you need? Looks like there may be other fouled bits (nevermind, I think you covered that)
Definitely cheaper than this:https://www.ebay.com/itm/BMW-G650X-...613177?hash=item3d885a2139:g:tgQAAOSwxS9csLnX
Yeah, the 1st one was all I needed. The overall length of the pump was slightly less than the OEM one, so I used some stainless safety wire to help lock the pump in location. I also had to soak the included plastic fuel pump tubing in boiling water to allow it to soften enough to press onto the pump\outlet ends. I had only opted for the Amazon option as I wanted it next day.
This helps a bunch.
lets see if this makes it more searchable: x-challenge fuel pump
The original after market source of the fuel pumps (HFP-382) for the 650's was HiFlow, now called Quantum, & they have filters & strainers as well
Wiring in EBay gauge unit to BMW XChallenege ABS
Firstly, a big thanks to David Randolph Evans. Without his knowledge this would have been a nightmare to work out.
Basic understanding of motorcycle electronics is required for this mod.
The basic scope of the conversion is to replace a failed standard dash unit. What David found out was the dash unit is a bit more complex than the normal dash units. It controls the indicators and over temp light functions. The over temp light at this stage has not been made able to work.
As I see it there are 2 ways you can do the conversion, get the plug that David found or prepare yourself for a lot of splicing wires. I chose the first one and got the plug that fits into the stock dash unit. I strongly suggest you read David’s document on his conversion as he is more knowledgeable than I on this topic and he also has what the plug is and where to get it from. https://docs.google.com/document/d/1oneyE2Oh09q5WEO8iBfKdzvU3f64uSv429TyJ1pfOfo/edit
From now I will refer to pin numbers which is the pin placement in the stock plug, the pin numbers are printed on both the male and female plugs. I will not refer to wire colors on the dash unit as these will probably vary to the dash unit you choose. Keep in mind that this document is based around my dash unit on my bike. Yours may be different.
Indicators. With the original dash unit controlling these you need to have a flasher relay put into the system. This is very simple. On the wiring coming from the LH switch gear there are 2 brown earth wires. These join at the first plug from the switch which is located just under the dash unit on the LH side. One of these will be the power feed for the indicators. I cut one of the brown wires to isolate which went to the indicator switch. I then check continuity from the switch to the other wires that go to the indicators themselves. On my bike they were light blue and blue/black and at the same switch. It turned out I cut the correct brown wire. I then used a switched power feed to power a 2 pin adjustable flasher unit then connected that to the brown wire going to the indicator switch. You then need to on the new dash plug make a jump wire to go from pin 1 to 5 and one to go from pin 4 to pin 8. You also take a power feed from these jumps to the dash. Now you have working indicators.
Low fuel light. My dash unit needs a 10ohm resistance to earth to turn the fuel light off. But the stock tank uses a ground switch to turn the stock light on from pin 25 on the dash plug. I used a relay for this, powered by the tank ground to switch the new dash light on. You need a 5 pin relay for this. I did it as pin 85 switched power, pin 86 tank, pin 87a to the dash and pin 30 is earth. A 10ohm resister is needed in the feed to the dash unit. Your dash unit may differ.
ABS light. I made an error with this, for me the light works backwards. The ABS light comes on when the ABS is on. I plan to run the bike for a few weeks to make sure I don’t get any faults then I remove the dash unit and power this light with a relay to reverse to polarity. I had presumed it was negative powered, but it must be positive.
The rest of the pin information for the dash plug is below.
Pin 2 Constant power.
Pin 3 Highbeam dash light. Positive feed.
Pin 13 Oil pressure dash light. Negative feed.
Pin 20 Earth.
Pin 21 Switched power feed.
Pin 22 ABS Light. Positive feed. I think….
Pin 23 Neutral dash Light. Negative feed.
On my dash unit speed is picked up from a front wheel sensor with a magnet on the front brake rotor.
I am using the engine check light on my new dash as the ABS light.
Rev counter. At this stage im running the rev counter to the firing wire of the inside coil pack. Im not 100% sure this is working correctly so will change it to David’s system the next time I take the fuel tank off to see if it improves. I have a TT tank.
So that’s it. You experience may vary. Mounting the dash unit is up to what you want.
Feel free to ask any questions as Im rubbish at writing stuff like this up.
Thank you for the write-up. Any photos of the new dash in place?
There it is.
Even tho my dashboard is still in good functionality I'm thinking this could be a very good idea to have ready to install when it shits the bed.
You you have a source for the dash and plug NZ? And maybe a rough cost you have rolled up into the modification?
All up about $200 NZD. So about $3.50 usd. Lol.
Link to the plug is in Davids write up.
Okay I seen that now .
I an confirm my rev counter is reading half. Lol
Anybody know if both plugs fire at the ssme time?
As far as I can remember they don't. One is to come on at a certain rev range. (I seem to have read somewhere some time.)
Didn't find the how and what but I did find this on a short search:
The word I wish I'd hear from my wife every night....
Some makes/models of vehicles fire on exhaust some dont, all the other after market dash assemblies have a setting for it
The plugs both fire all the time but at a slightly different time hence reversing the connectors gives poor running
The difference in coil colors & hence part numbers is so you plug them in the right way round
I think it must run thinking it fires twice, but it doesnt. I wonder then if fitting both coils to it would work?
Or could it feed back into the other coil?
Thinking about it I will run diodes in the 2 lines. Dont want to back feed the ecu.
Isn't there a setting on the new dash that allows you to choose the number of cylinders ?
That used to be the case on aftermarket rev counter back in the 80's by a selector at the back.
No doubt that would be a setting in a menu nowadays.
You might not like the answer....
No setting that I have found. Instructions were pretty average though.