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BMW G650X Challenge Thread Index

Discussion in 'Thumpers' started by GB, Apr 24, 2008.

  1. Gravel Seeker

    Gravel Seeker Old, growing older.

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    Maybe easier to remove the tank and rear frame instead of the engine from the frame though.
    The frame is attached to the head on the GS as well, but the rear frame attaches to the main frame, not the engine, so it stays on.
  2. cyclopathic

    cyclopathic Long timer

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    I just hope abs bleed isn't like on 1150; had to do it once in hotel parking lot on buddy's RT after his rear line burst. We spent a couple hours finding hydraulic shop but after he had line made and we put it on it took at least 4hr to get his brakes back. It had been many years but I think I still remember the sequence you have to run those 6 bleeders on the top of servo, plus the ones on the brakes to get them back.. german engineering at best lmao.

    As for dropping the bike on stock shifter have done it many times; sometimes many times a day, no leaks. I would imagine brake cleaner and gasket maker overnight would be the first before going any farther.
  3. cyclopathic

    cyclopathic Long timer

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    I replaced mine as a precautionary measure when I got bike. It didn't leak and there was no lubricant between seals.

    They were normal black nitrile rubber seals and that's what I put back; the one on coolant side was alive and the one on oil side was wooden. I imagine wear is due to seals drying out and becoming hard.

    There was also a persistent rumor that later china black engines had better alignment and/or used better stainless steel shaft; don't know how much truth to this urban legend.
    manybike likes this.
  4. Dutchgit

    Dutchgit Completely clogless

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    Well, as I already wrote, it was a fault of my own. The gasket that goes between the engine halves was too long, so I cut it short, being flush with the deck where the jug sits. It must have moved down a little during putting it all back together and it leaked oil out, a fair amount actually so I had to do the whole process again to put another new gasket in. This time though, I had learned what my mistake was and only cut the excess off with the engine halves pressed together and bolted down.
    It was rather annoying but a lesson well learned I'll tell you :(:doh

    I think I remember you can't take the head off as it would collide with the front frame on the X.
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  5. Gravel Seeker

    Gravel Seeker Old, growing older.

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    I just replaced with a kit from BMW before last season and can't recall the seals being different, but some have talked about using a Viton seal on the oil side.
    Two things to remember is leave a space between the seals for fluid(s) to escape the engine case instead of mixing with the other fluid and to pack the space with grease.

    upload_2021-4-16_9-5-41.png
    Dutchgit, manybike and cyclopathic like this.
  6. cyclopathic

    cyclopathic Long timer

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    Also grease engine facing seal. There is very little oil splash on it from inside even if it leaks the only way you find out if bike naps on left side long time.

    IMO really cheap bad design on Rotax account.. makes me wonder if Yamaha/Aprilia doesn't have bearing at pump as well in 655 sibling. Was it designed to accept a sealed bearing and they replaced it with seal down the road?
  7. manybike

    manybike Omnipresent Supporter

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    Thanks for the info. I have owned 2 650GS's and never had an issue with it. One had 65k miles...just lucky maybe ? I have read where doing a coolant flush every year helps.
  8. manybike

    manybike Omnipresent Supporter

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    By the way, I did pull the trigger and bought the XC...now...I have to stop reading about all the things that can go wrong !!
    Still not selling my Versys 300x yet, different category but a damn good bike.
    Dutchgit and Snake Oiler like this.
  9. cyclopathic

    cyclopathic Long timer

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    The friend of mine had it fixed several times in 60k he owned 650GS, once in Guatemala, and some owners state it is 20k maintenance item. I took time to make sure new seals were installed perpendicular so there would be no unnecessary side load. I'm guessing if seals are not aligned it will shorten lifespan.

    Nitrile seals are $4-5ea and blue Viton are not much more.. maybe I will try PVC next time.
  10. cyclopathic

    cyclopathic Long timer

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    What kills that bike (VX 3) for me is alot of plastic and 5" suspension.. seriously considered several times.
  11. manybike

    manybike Omnipresent Supporter

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    Yep, budget suspension. It does gravel very well though, better than I thought it would. Plus, a 12k km valve check is required as they do tend to move. Some shops will charge over $800 to do this...yikes
  12. manybike

    manybike Omnipresent Supporter

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    My xc has a hyperpro shock with hydraulic preload. Looking at lowering by having spacers installed...unless...someone has a lowered shock who wants to trade. I live in Canada.
  13. manybike

    manybike Omnipresent Supporter

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    trying to find them in Aliexpress, do you have a link ?
  14. Dutchgit

    Dutchgit Completely clogless

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    Find a good suspension shop in your area, they should be able to help you.
  15. manybike

    manybike Omnipresent Supporter

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    Yep, will be doing that next week, thanks !
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  16. Gravel Seeker

    Gravel Seeker Old, growing older.

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  17. cyclopathic

    cyclopathic Long timer

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    IIRC HyperPro has -40mm lowering spring listed for application.. part SP-BM06-SSB015.

    IMO just shave foam on seat; rounding edges will give you more standover and would be a welcoming addition from comfort point of view.
    manybike likes this.
  18. Chrisbarnes1

    Chrisbarnes1 Long timer Supporter

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    do seat concepts do a foam and cover kit?
  19. manybike

    manybike Omnipresent Supporter

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    I checked them out and could only find regular height foam and cover kits.
  20. manybike

    manybike Omnipresent Supporter

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    Thanks, I will check the spring out. I am working on shaving the seat. Not sure how much foam to leave behind. Went for a test ride and it does make a difference, may have to get a pro to take a look and handle putting the seat cover back on correctly. I could also just peel the foam off , keep it and the OEM cover, and just keep them stored. Take the pan to a shop and have them do a new cover and foam...not sure if that is possible. I believe seat concepts sells foam cover kits but I could only find regular height ones in their website.