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Discussion in 'Thumpers' started by GB, Apr 24, 2008.
Picked up a passenger on the weekend.
Your a chick magnet
No point in grousing about it.
Just got to let it fly
Konnie, we got to meet up soon, getting warm . I have some valve shims if you need them for a future adjustment.
Question on the decompressor issue, what is the problem with it?
I am thinking this may be my hot start problem.
I have a suspension question. My Xc has a Hyperpro shock w
At the end of the exhaust cam (opposite of the timing chain), there is a little arm or lever that hangs down because of gravity. When the cam starts spinning, this arm will make contact with a static surface (the head) and lift the cam the exhaust valve and depress it slightly so the exhaust valve is not sealing properly thus not providing full compression. As the cam spins faster, centrifugal force makes the little arm pivot out, no longer making contact with the head thus no longer affecting compression. It only takes a handful of turns of the cam to achieve this, but enough to allow the starter to start the engine without requiring the energy of a nuclear power plant.
The problem is that one of the designs of this arm can get stuck and no longer move out so you're left with too low compression to start the warm engine.
The decomp levers are not distinguishable to the eye, but the new updated version solves this issue. It was not an issue on the earlier models that used this engine.
[Edited for accuracy]
I wonder if the new one was machined to be a bit more narrow so it won't get hung up.
For sure! I usually head up to Stave or Harrison on weekends. Have to stay local until the travel restrictions end.
I actually really don't have a clue. Not a mechanic, just thinking aloud and since this is an issue when the engine is warm only, I suspect it is a thermal expansion issue where the metal expands enough not to move freely when hot, then as the engine cools the part retracts and at some point it will move freely again. We're talking extremely small measurements here. Probably why it is not possible to see a difference between the old and upgraded part either.
Not sure why this was not an issue on the earlier motors or if it ever was an issue on the G-GSs. If not it might indicate the cam lobes might be different on the X to get those extra ponies? I'm just throwing out things here. Maybe the lighter flywheel makes a difference when trying to start the X's with the old decomp lever? Like I said, don't know
You could take the valve cover off and heat up the lever with a torch and see if it will stick ?
If you use a regular torch I seriously doubt you'll do any damage making sure you don't overheat it or any seals around it and use a infrared temperature gun (everyone has one of them right ? ).
But the revised parts are cheap enough to avoid any risk at all I suppose.
Yeah, I wouldn't. Very difficult to control the heat with an open flame (not to mention all the oil that will start burning). How hot is a hot engine ? We're talking maybe 110C here not 800C.....
Ah yes, the oil, well it might need a change anyway
Thanks for the ideas on the decomp issue. I will be getting the revised part and report back .
That is a great picture of the arm you posted there @Gravel Seeker. cheers
Finally had a nice day out on the bikes again yesterday !
Renovating a house has its perks but it holds nothing against riding the good old X !
It just pulls like a train
Answered your PM - to others: don't forget to read the info I linked to at crossroadz around hot start issue and ask around for more info from people who actually know all the details. There was a recall I think and you might need new firmware as well.
Has anyone replaced there stock clutch case cover with the Husquvarna TR650 clutch case cover?
I'm researching doing that job and wanted to know what all I needed to buy.
Bike Bandit has a parts fiche for it:
I know that I need part #3 on the parts fiche. Are there any other parts like seals and hardware that I need to buy to do the job?
I replaced mine with the BMW cover following Snookers writeup. I would recommend giving it a read. I replaced the bearings and seal & gasket cover. Bearings from amazon. Part #'s are in the writeup.
Hey guys! I'm sure you are all on the X-Challenge Facebook group buuuuuut just in case you're not can you tell me if any of you guys have ran into this situation and if so what was the fix? Thanks a million!!!
Amalia will not start again. 2000 km ago this happened at a gas station in Cappadocia, Turkey. Now again 3 weeks later in Tbilisi, Georgia she is dead in the water
I rode the motorcycle for about 15 minutes and parked her at a shop. She started up fine from dead cold this morning and rode perfectly normal before I parked her at the shop.
Last time she didn't want to start I let her sit for about 10 minutes & she started right back up but this time I've been fighting with her for about an hour. I disconnected the battery. Tried starting her with the kickstand up and in and out of neutral. No fire since the initial small backfire when you first time I tried to start her. After that nothing.
I do not hear the fuel pump priming and there's about a quarter of a tank of fuel in there which is more than enough to get her going. At least to print the pump
She cranks and cranks and cranks but no fire. Throttle wide open She's still cranks and no fire.
When I press the kill switch on the handlebar after cranking the engine over four five or six seconds the red temperature light on the dash flashes an error code of 10 flashes. Anyone know what that means? Anyone had this situation happen with their bike before???
Thanks a million and much love from Georgia
Do you ever hear the fuel pump pressurize? Lots of issues with the ground plug going into the tank bulkhead. Mine had similar symptoms, I redid the connectors and it’s been fine since.
Also, no turning the throttle when starting fuel injected bikes. You may want to perform the throttle position sensor reset procedure while you’re at it.