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Discussion in 'Thumpers' started by GB, Apr 24, 2008.
thanks, makes sense, i guess i need to go for a ride!
I had been going at 3K, but I read somewhere where they were changing it out every two.
I'm probably 70% off the blacktop, some times it's pretty dusty..
Just curious, I did 300 miles yesterday, mostly off road. I checked the oil before I left, it has close to 2,000 on this change, it still looked pretty clean. Not new, but not black, that's for sure.
The book says 6k oil changes but I usually do mine at 3k which seems pretty generous. It's not like it is a small, high reving engine with only a litre of oil.
3K is what I have been doing.. Unless I dump it in the river, then it's three quick oil changes to get the water out of the oil..
I had been doing it at 6000 miles / 10,000 km ... but will probably move to 4000 miles / 6000 km.
You can speed up the draining of the tank considerably by shooting compressed air into the tank while making a crappy air seal with your hand or a rag
Last night on the way home from work I had my clutch slip 2 times. Both under hard accelleration. Once just after getting into third and the second time in top gear. I am going to change my oil this weekend hopefully, so what else should I check? The cable seemed fine but I dont know what I a checking for.
The bike only has around 3000miles
I tried to replicate it a few times but accellerating hard, and by dropping the clutch with a hand full of gas but didnt have any luck.
The temp was about 14celcius at the time.
EDIT: Also I am going to try and ride well into the canadian winter on my bike this year, provided they will let me park indoors at work when/if it snows. I will probably stop riding when the temps are sustained below 0 during the day. What oil should do you suggest I run in the cold weather?
It sounds like you don't have any freeplay in your clutch cable.
You should be able to move the clutch lever about 1/8 inch (at the pivot end ) before it starts pulling the clutch cable.
If you should happen to need to replace the clutch, the g650x bikes use the same clutch basket as the older f650 Dakar. So you can order the clutch for a Dakar from EBC.
I don't change oil weights when riding in colder weather. My coldest riding has so far been about -12C. I think the change oil weight for season is an older convention before multi weight oils.
I've just did my first oil change on my 2007 G650XCh and pretty much followed the recommendations here, with the exception of also draining the bottom oil line (close to the drain cap)... thinking I can speed up the tank drainage
All seemed fine afterwards, but when I tried a test ride I noticed I cannot get into 2nd gear anymore... Is there anything I may have missed or need to verify to better understand what's going on ?
Update: I just went ahead and loosen again that bottom oil line I wasn't probably supposed to drain and left it purge a bit of oil and maybe some air, while running the engine for 1-2 min. I then tried to pull up the shift lever a bit more firm and it finally unlocked somehow... I have no idea if the purging of that line really fixed it, but it seems to be fine now. I just hope it's not going to lock again unexpectedly...
Check the tension in the clutch cable. When you pull the clutch lever there should only be a few millimetres of free play. Check your owners manual if you need that in inches.
I had the same problem you had/are having. If the bike was at a stand still I could not change gears or find neutral. I adjusted my clutch cable and now it is as smooth as you could wish for.
I take it we're all ignoring 20k service interval it saying in the handbook?
Thanks, LangKat! You were quite right. The counter-nut on the clutch cable was probably loose since some time and it was just a coincidence that it let the cable loose just after the oil change. I adjusted the free play as advised and now even the neutral is much easier to find. I'm quite surprised how smooth the engine works after this oil change, it's like rolling in honey, in comparison to the clunky feeling before...
I am ignoring it. I have a few bikes so an annual service works out best for me as the bikes don't usually get more than 5-6k miles a year.
I just changed the G650 oil after ~5400 miles (have the exact number in the shop) and my bike had not used a drop of oil. I sent the oil off to blackstone for testing. I checked my valves last night and they were fine, pretty much in the center of the range. the bike has just under 10K miles on it.
Here is a link to the maintenance schedules if anyone wants them.
I just did the 20K service (at 18K), and had some issues with the rear swing arm...make sure the bearings are lubed up as needed or else it'll be a PITA/$...
how does one lube up the swing arm bearings? That is, can it be done with the swing arm in place or must it be removed?
No clue - I heard it was a PITA so I had my dealer do it...
Bike on a stand.
Remove rear wheel.
Cable tie caliper to subframe.
Disconnect bottom shock mount - if bolt has been greased before this is OK, otherwise it can be difficult to remove
On right side of swingarm, undo 3 small allen bolts. The stainless pivot bit then slides out. You can fit a slide hammer or puller to it or carefully lever with a screw driver.
Using a 10mm hex with a long handle remove the left hand stainless pivot. It may be tight.
The swingarm slides slightly to the left then can be withdrawn.
It is fairly straight forward but if it hasn't been removed for greasing before I wish you luck.
It may not always be that straight forward. A puller can be used on the right side but if you don't have one just insert your bolt and you can use extra persuasion. I used a pry bar.
Some people have had trouble with the threaded insert on the left side. The frame has a threaded insert which can become damaged while removing the pivot. This is expensive to fix, as the inserts seem to be unobtainable. TooFastForYou has extras, I think.
Someone has a thread about this subject.
Yep..i had a machinist fix mine..they had to buy a box of the helicoil inserts...i have 12 left..they are $25 a piece..pm me if u need one...as long as you dont screw up your threads in the frame, the new helicoil threads right in..beats buying the $400 frame section...