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Discussion in 'Thumpers' started by GB, Apr 24, 2008.
I have a DVD with the wiring diagram on it somewhere
Any chance of burning a copy or two for inmates? Or let us know where we can purchase our own?
Blokes need to pm me their addresses and Ill see if I ca dig it up
Sorry for the late reply guys - I've been a bit crook for the last week and haven't been online for a while.
As always thanks for the response Walter.
And thanks for the advice Slide....You could say it's warmer that average here on Queensland's Gold Coast - but I cant complain about that...It's definitely better than the weather back home in the Derbyshire. Good to know for the future that the weight points isn't critical though.
has anyone's battery or front rotor been replaced under warranty? i think my dealer is going to tell me these are wear items and are not expected to last 3 years. please forgive my ignorance if this is the wrong place for this question.
My battery was replaced under recall after it failed and BMW had to tow the bike. Battery warranty in the manual is 24 months...I am familiar with the manual since mine is in for the rear air suspension. Apparently a 150# guy can wear out the rear end in 6.5k because the rear shock is a consumable. Also, suspension is not covered under the BMW warranty even though there is nothing about that in the book.
I think you might have an argument with the rotor...
That is what they told me about my rotor. I bought a braking rotor from Stephan and it is nice.
Hope your German is good.
My battery was replaced twice under warranty to the Exide OEM and then recalled to a Yuasa. The Yuasa failed too. I am now running an Odyssey clone & so far so good.
I have a motobatt i got on ebay for my track bike, yellow Chinese AGM battery. I have read good reviews on them. I tried to put it in the G650 but it didn't fit in the space, just couple mm too tall.
I have the Yuasa that came in the bike when I bought it two years ago, it still works well but I will swap it out before my next trip.
I have an odyssey PC535 in my R1200S, it seems to work very well, but the PC310 that fits the G650 is goofy expensive.
It's the brand or non brand sold as a house brand by Batteries Plus. I have had great luck with them.
I have wondered about the expensive AGM from Batteries Plus, i think it is USA made.
On our CDR trip this year my buddy Kevin got a batteries plus battery, and it broke couple days later, but it was not the really good one, it was the mid grade one i think.
Experiences differ, but in my case, given the issues I've had with the G-X's batteries, I did go with the top of the line. IIRC, it was $85, but I may be wrong.
Roger that, i may very well go with one, I just have not seen any reports on them yet, thanks for the info. In my previous post I said expensive, but I should have said top of the line, or higher grade.
Hi I'd like to get some information.
Does somebody ever try to fit wheels from other motorcycle to BMW g650 X.
I have the X MOTO version and I'd like to get enduro wheels. New are expensive and on the aftermarket it's really hard to get ones.
I had a fun little exit off of the Challenge last weekend. I locked up the rear on a slippery patch with a lot of side slope and the back tire quickly went left. As I was leaving the bike, my foot came off of the rear brake and the rear wheel quickly corrected and we highsided. I planted my foot and stretched the medial ligament in my left knee. The Challenge planted the gear shift lever and the rest of the left side into the dirt.
The bike was in 3rd gear when it went down and I had a hell of a time getting it to shift down, or up for that matter. Having a busted knee on that side didn't help. Finally I got it to let go, but then it got stuck again in 3rd as I was shifting up. The lever gets stuck in the up position. It won't shift down or up even with strong encouragement. If I really get on the gas and get to high revs it'll let go and I can shift up. It'll shift back down through 3rd fine. Just doesn't like going up.
The clutch lever and action seam to be working fine.
Stupid me, I knew about the gear shift lever being strong and the shaft being weak, but failed to do anything about it since I've owned it. Mostly because I wasn't getting out on it much, so I thought, "soon". So that's an obvious fix I need to get on. However, the shaft isn't broke and the lever, is of course, still fine. I've seen several options on here, something from a Yamaha, a F650GS,... anybody have a strong, experienced "best" option?
So does anybody have some idea what my major malfunction is with the bike?
I'd like to fix it myself. I have pretty decent luck and have done several clutches in my day. But I the engine needs pulled and the case split open I'll need to bring it in. I don't have time... I have kids. Problem is I don't have $.... I have kids. My fingers are crossed and my anti-inflammatories are treating me right!
Can I get a "smilie" with a leg cast over here?
It is possible to bend the lever without bending the shaft and it doesn't take much for the lever to catch on the engine case. Rule this out first. If the lever is bent, warm it up with a gas torch first to avoid cracking the metal. To avoid over heating it, rub some liquid soad on it first and stop when it goes brown.
I am a bit confused why the bike would change through the lower gears then get stuck in 3rd however it is possible that the shift forks or shift shaft have bent causing it to stick. I'm not a mechanic though so there may be another cause. If something is bent I believe the parts are fairly cheap but the labour costs a lot as you have to split the cases.
I hope it is the shift lever. Good luck.
Either the shift lever has bent and is getting caught on the engine case (easy to fix) , or, the shaft that take the shift into the engine / gearbox is bent ... thats a big problem as you need to completely dismantle the engine and split the case to change it.
You will not be the first to bend that shaft ... I saw an engine in Holland recently that had to be pulled apart because of that. Its why many of us recommend changing the standard shift lever to a nice soft one.
Mine stuck to 4th after left side getoff. I was able to kick it to 3rd and back to 4th, but nothing more. After splitting the engine I discovered that shaft was only slightly bent, maybe few millimeters. But gear selector drum contact is quite delicate so no room for any play.
Would it be possible to use a hammer on the shaft to try and bend it back forward? A few sharp blows might not hurt.
Probably need a three pound hammer for transmission work.
It might work and I don't think you would be any more screwed if it didn't.