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Discussion in 'Thumpers' started by GB, Apr 24, 2008.
Is the air shock lighter than a conventional spring/oil bath type?
I have one. I'm about 25 miles west of DC. I had it in the flea market for $100 I think. PM me if you're interested.
have one, using it but considering a spring.
sucks being on another continent for these kinds of things
Anyone have a successful time removing the ABS from their bike?
Remove the front brake line, ABS sensor and short line from the master cylinder
Replace the front brake line and banjo bolt with the OEM BMW non ABS part.
Loop the smaller line from the right side distribution block back on itself.
Pull the ABS fuse, tape over the light on the dash.
For the permanent removal you'd need front and rear brake lines and the front banjo bolt at a minimum. I neutered the system on mine so I could raise the bars significantly and retain the resale value. NVTS
Does anybody happen to have a TT tank they want to sell? I would love to find one collecting dust in a garage that somebody wants to get rid of/ Of course it is for my G650 XChallenge!
Mechanical completely done, then I did the full electrical conversion per this post but still having difficulty with the speedo, any way i can contact this post author?
A quick google search revealed that he's also registered here on ADVrider.com:
I just did two bikes. A X-ch and a X-co. What problems are you having? Did you do the speedo reset procedure? I have a print out I can send you if you pm me an email address.
Speed indicator is displaying zero along with no ODO. but all other functions work perfect.
Yes, I did the reset, but the only thing it did was change wheel size. Is there away to check the wheel sensor output?
I should have checked the link before I posted. That is the exact procedure I used. I confirmed the wiring instructions by comparing the non-abs wiring schematic to the abs schematic.
I would go back and check your wiring especially the pin locations at the instrument connector. Also be sure the pins are fully inserted. You can use the front speed sensor to drive the the speedo or replace the rear with the it. They are the same with the possible exception of cable length. The different wheel diameters will provide an erroneous reading if you use the front wheel but it should work for testing purposes.
Did you use twisted cable when you extended the sensor wires? The twisted wire helps to reject any electronic noise. Doesn't have to be anything special, just twist the wires together tightly like the OEM wires. I also solder those connections.
Like I said, I just did an 07 and an 09 with out problems. I did unwrap the original wiring harness and remove all unused wires. Rewrap with oem tape. That's a bit anal but I get that way when it comes to wiring. BTW, I extended and used the leftover 10 amp fuse (switched) for dash accessories and the 20 amp fuse (unswitched) for headlights through a relay. That takes a substantial 5 amp load off the ignition switch. The 30 amp fuse was wired to a HD SAE connector. All wires wrapped in the redone wire harness to look OEM.
I just checked. I taped the green wire on the ignition switch loom RED has constant 12VDC, green has only 12VDC when ignition switch is on.
So, if anyone is interested, that is not how it was meant to be!
Which is strange, because it is very unlikely bearing has been changed before me and unlikely that it has moved by itself.
Decided to do it properly, bin the new seal and measured depth at 5.3 mm. It must have been pressed like this from the factory?? :huh :huh
Anyway, what do you think about this - does that pin need replacing?
What is the trick to removing the right hanlebar riser bolt?
I got the left out, but the right has a metal tab on the headstock which seems to block access to the bolt head for a socket. I don't want to take the top triple off just to check the bolt is not bent (bars were slightly "cocked"). I tried to use an open end wrench but it felt like it was going to round the corners off :eek1 and based on how much thread lock was on the left bolt, I didn't want to destroy the bolt head.
Try using a heat gun to heat the riser. That will release the thread locker.
BTY, if you use a Scott's dampner mount it will clamp the risers together and prevent them from twisting. You don't need the whole kit, just the bar clamp. http://www.scottsonline.com/Stabilizer_Purchase2.php?Make=BMW&Model=G&Bike_ID=4719&Year=2009&Size=650&Fred=X&BI_ID=454399
PITA.... Have to remove the front fairing and helps to removed right side panel. Push bars to full right stop point to clear the pesky tab.
Hi I'm looking for rear wheel for Xchallenge, maybe somebody have one for sale?
I think I have a radiator leak.
How difficult is it to replace?
Is the rad fluid normal cooling fluid as used in cars or specific? Any additives to be added? Cheers
specific; non-silicate non-nitrate antifreeze 50:50 with water.
sure its in the radiator?
I've seen those pipe clamps come off before