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Discussion in 'Thumpers' started by GB, Apr 24, 2008.
They can go pretty deep!
Realized everyone else was not going to follow so turned around.
looks like a "lazy man's bike cleaning technique" to me :)
There was not anything LAZY about that river crossing! LOL
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If you are asking this only because you are concerned that you bent a bolt, I had a getoff and thought my left bolt was bent severly. I even bought new aftermarket bolts then proceeded to pull out the left bolt and it was straight as an arrow! And the right bolt was of course way harder to access so I didn't even attempt it, just put the old left bolt back in, straightened it up and it is perfect again!
It is amazing how much the rubber allows it to be off centered instead of bending a bolt. So did you try just loosening it and tightening it?
I realize this is not your question, but maybe if you are not actually thinking you have to REMOVE it, then you will have a better idea! (like prying it back without loosening it at all ?? or loosen the left only and yank the bars around??)
Have done the same thing a few times. I rode the bike home once with the bars all 'bent' and off center. Loosened them off at home and swapped the mounts around and reattached...perfect alignment. A few rides later 'bent' them again (I fall alot) and thought I was pooched because they were already turned around. Loosened them on trail and tightened them back up....perfect alignment. I should probably look at getting some new rubber tho. Or learn how to ride better...
I replace the bolts after every good crash or before Baja.
What's the worse that could happen?
Shearing the bolts off and having to ride 100 miles of whoops with a 36" zip tie holding my handlebars on. Twice.
In the past 6 months I have been riding, to me, some knarly trails and crashing as gentle as possible On the first hard get off I had the bars were pretty much out of alignment. So, I remembered the bolts were weak and I just have the cheep TT space. I could not really ride the bike and had a long way out So I rolled over to a well exposed tree and knocked the front tire laterally..... presto right back in place. Went back out of allignment on the next crash too that day. Same routine till I got to tighted them up a few turns when I got back to the house.
Placed a Lynx fairing a week ago and had to pull the front headlamp, fairing and bars for the install. Quick and easy access to the pesky bolt after the undressing the front with full cock to the right. Best with a long 8 mm allen key or socket. I did have to purchase new bolts for the lynx install and went with 12.? Steel bolts
Rode hard and fast the next weekend after install and realized that I did not tighten up the left one all the way But it is easy access with the new lynx.
I found an information that rear wheel from Yamaha xt 600 4pt or ttr600 fits xchallenge, can somebody confirm this info?
Sir, I think you may have brass balls to even attempt that. Guess I know what I'll be replacing this winter. Not to mention throwing a few spares in the kit.
It beats walking home.
Keeping a ratcheting tie down in your kit helps keep the bars on better than the zip tie.
Handlebars are so overrated these days.
I mean - if you have a really strong grip you could just hold on to the forks and steer with them - right? :huh
The steel tab is there to prevent engaging the steering lock in any other positon as full lock left .
if you are dead sure you are not going to use the steering lock, or have relocated the the keyswitch all together, you could grind it away.
(if you ground away the tab you still can engage the lock, but the pin can be outside its bushing, so the bike can be rolled away)
Finding replacement for the bolt can be tricky, it is a M10 bolt with an M8 hex head, so better order the Original part,
( there isn`t enough room for an M10 spanner)
Stainless imbus bolts will fail.
I did mine before LABtoV and it was a PITA. If the bearing housing hadn't been damaged I would have left it alone. It stuck out like yours and had been grazed by the chain at some point due to the chain guide going AWOL. As for changing the pin, I'd go ahead. It's a cheap part as BMW parts go.
It's easier to replace than to order. The only iffy part is driving the screw fitting between the fins of the new radiator on right side as I recall.
thanks - got some liquid from BMW.
could be the clamp... not being mechanically minded, which one and can I just get to it by removing the LHS panel? Cheers
Hope this is the appropriate place to post this. The last time I checked, my inseam is 28 inches, or was that 27? Anyways, you get the idea. Looking for a low seat for my XCH. If I'm not wrong, the X-Moto stock seat = the XCH low seat. Well, either way, as long as it's lower. Can trade or buy. Seat I have has 1400 miles on it. Please PM me if you have something.
the paint is slowly chipping off in the creases of the rear plastic part. looks like the plastic is too bendy for the paint to handle. anyone else experiencing this?
I might look into shrink wrapping the parts. I wonder if that will crease when the plastic bends.
anyone know if I can find this part on a fiche somewhere?