BMW G650X Challenge Thread Index

Discussion in 'Thumpers' started by GB, Apr 24, 2008.

  1. jabroka

    jabroka Been here awhile

    Joined:
    Nov 11, 2008
    Oddometer:
    369
    Location:
    Buenos Aires, Argentina
    I've cleaned the whole throttle valve unit and idle actuator with an ultrasonic cleaner and it did got a little better, but It still has the same issues.
  2. jabroka

    jabroka Been here awhile

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    Nov 11, 2008
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    369
    Location:
    Buenos Aires, Argentina
    Interesting thread..

    Now, I was wondering if it would be a good idea to fix the IAT sensor to have a constant -20 degree difference..

    I mean, it may improve cold starts and riding in cold weather, but what happens when the ambient temp goes up ? what happens if you add altitude to that temp? wouldn't the mix get excessively rich and get a carburetor like bog?:scratch
  3. SteveDennehy

    SteveDennehy Steve

    Joined:
    Jan 15, 2011
    Oddometer:
    402
    Location:
    Pretoria, South Africa
    Hi guys
    I was not too pleased with the wiring loom provided by Touratech with their fairing, so I redid it. Now I notice that when the HID (high beam) is on, the low beam turns off. Individually, both lights work fine, but only one at a time. I don't think it was always like this.
    Can anybody advise? With high beam on, is the low beam lamp supposed to be on or off? And if it is supposed to be on, can anybody think of a reason why it is off?
    Thanks
  4. tbarstow

    tbarstow Two-wheelin' Fool Super Supporter

    Joined:
    Jul 9, 2007
    Oddometer:
    4,700
    Location:
    Mesa, AZ
    In some countries it may be illegal to run multiple headlights at the same level or something silly like that.
  5. Tomdog

    Tomdog Mapaholic

    Joined:
    Sep 17, 2008
    Oddometer:
    665
    Location:
    Kiwi on the Gold Coast. Australia
    My low beam stays on.
  6. jabroka

    jabroka Been here awhile

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    Nov 11, 2008
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    369
    Location:
    Buenos Aires, Argentina
    Hey Steve,

    I believe you messed up the wiring somewhere, when I switch the High beam the low beam stays on, it was that way before and after tiding up the headlight and accessories wiring with a fuzeblocks unit.

    [​IMG]
  7. MJS

    MJS Long timer

    Joined:
    Dec 23, 2005
    Oddometer:
    2,768
    Location:
    Off the grid in San Felipe, Baja
    The stock switch will power only the low beam or high beam, not both at the same time. This was due to the original dual filament H4 lamp.

    I'm not familiar with the specific wiring of the TT harness but they probably use a diode in the harness to keep the low beam on when the switch is in the high beam position. The diode gets connected to the high and low beam wires from the switch. A diode is like a one way valve, it only allows electricity to flow in one direction. The diode allows current to flow from the high beam circuit to the low beam circuit keeping the low beam on when the high beam is energized. When the low beam is energized the diode prevents current from flowing to the high beam circuit keeping the high beam off.

    This is easy to do using relays as the diode can be very small since it only needs to carry the current for the relay coil. I'm guessing you lost the diode when you redid the wiring.
  8. SteveDennehy

    SteveDennehy Steve

    Joined:
    Jan 15, 2011
    Oddometer:
    402
    Location:
    Pretoria, South Africa
    Yup, I lost the diodes. Didn't realise they were there.
    A photo of my wiring, with two custom PCBs. The bottom one is just two relays, for the lights. The top one does the power distribution for the rest of the tower instruments, and provided overcurrent, overvoltage and undervoltage protection. I use one of the outputs to control the low beam relay, so that it turns off before flattening the battery if I leave the ignition on - again....

    [​IMG]
  9. MJS

    MJS Long timer

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    Dec 23, 2005
    Oddometer:
    2,768
    Location:
    Off the grid in San Felipe, Baja
    Nice job :super Guess I didn't need to explain about the diode :lol3
  10. HarryBalls

    HarryBalls Curmudgeonly Rider

    Joined:
    Aug 8, 2013
    Oddometer:
    36
    Location:
    BFE, NM
    So I have just started my X challenge build, not too far in. I am trying to set mine up similar to Colebatch's for long range adv travel. Of the various suspension setups ya'll have used, which one do you like the best? Which one do you recommend? I think the suspension is the next thing I need to work on, in addition to a good steering stabilizer (any input on this is also welcome...Ohlins vs Scott vs Emig, etc...).
  11. advFord

    advFord Been here awhile

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    Jan 16, 2012
    Oddometer:
    702
    Location:
    Orange County, CA
    I've had the Scott on for just a couple months and it's the first one that I've had but I'm happy with it. It was an easy install (it's a simple weld) It's definitely done it's job on some of the trails and roads I've been on in Guatemala and now Colombia.
  12. tbarstow

    tbarstow Two-wheelin' Fool Super Supporter

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    Jul 9, 2007
    Oddometer:
    4,700
    Location:
    Mesa, AZ
    Do your suspension first, as you may find that swapping the triple clamps out to accommodate better forks is the route that you want to go.

    I run the Emig Racing steering damper, as it is the only "under the bars" model out there for the XChallenge. It bolts on pretty easy. I'd replace the steering head bearings while you have the top clamp off to install a steering damper.
  13. pampaX

    pampaX Been here awhile

    Joined:
    Aug 3, 2007
    Oddometer:
    445
    i had something similar happening to me and doing the throttle reset procedure seemed to cure it.

    TRP=ignition on->twist throttle all the way->ignition off->ignition on->computer starts (no flashing lights)->ignition off->done (please verify as this is from top of my head

  14. advFord

    advFord Been here awhile

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    Jan 16, 2012
    Oddometer:
    702
    Location:
    Orange County, CA
    I ended up just tapping in the unused wire from the emissions canister as it was a switched wire and lessened the chance of me screwing my ignition wires.

    Anyone know a reason this might not be a good idea?
  15. SteveDennehy

    SteveDennehy Steve

    Joined:
    Jan 15, 2011
    Oddometer:
    402
    Location:
    Pretoria, South Africa
    Is there a signal wire anywhere which is active only when the G650X engine is running? I think I would prefer if the park light turned on with the ignition, but the headlight turned on only when the engine is running, like a R1200GS. I'm happy to mod the wiring loom, but I can't find a suitable signal wire to tap into.
    Does it exist?
  16. ridepjride

    ridepjride Migrant

    Joined:
    Jan 28, 2006
    Oddometer:
    520
    Location:
    Vacaville, CA
    I would use the horn wire.
  17. aprilian

    aprilian Can I change this?

    Joined:
    Feb 20, 2009
    Oddometer:
    478
    Location:
    MinneSNOWta
    I used the tail light wire.
  18. jabroka

    jabroka Been here awhile

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    Nov 11, 2008
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    369
    Location:
    Buenos Aires, Argentina
    Not that I know of.. I tapped the ingnition wire for 2 reasons: 1st it was accesible and near the area where I installed the fuzeblock , 2nd because its used just as a signal, the real load is on the 12vdc and ground cables coming directly from the battery.

    FWIW I've all the wiring schematics, if you don't have them and may help you locating that wire if it exists, I can send them to you (14 pdf files, 1mb uncompressed, in german)

    cheers:freaky
  19. swimmer

    swimmer armchair asshole

    Joined:
    Oct 9, 2007
    Oddometer:
    15,628
    Location:
    Tucson, AZ
    As I continue to go through my new to me X-ch with maintenance I am now changing out the coolant. I notice a fair amount of people have needed to replace pump seals. With this in mind is there any special recommendations for a coolant type/brand? Thanks
  20. tbarstow

    tbarstow Two-wheelin' Fool Super Supporter

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    Jul 9, 2007
    Oddometer:
    4,700
    Location:
    Mesa, AZ
    The BMW coolant seems to work fine. The water pump seals require a bit of work to get to, as Hans and Franz covered up one of the outer cover bolts with the lower subframe.