BMW G650X Challenge Thread Index

Discussion in 'Thumpers' started by GB, Apr 24, 2008.

  1. keepshoveling

    keepshoveling DNF

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  2. MJS

    MJS Long timer

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    No. Canbus is simply a network communication system (lots of data over two wires), the X-bikes are basic electricals, one wire per sensor / switch. However, if your question was about control of the fuel pump, it is controlled by the BMS-C control module.
  3. AeroAggie

    AeroAggie Adventurer

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    If anyone is looking for a pristine X Challenge to ride or build, I've got an excellent one in the flea market. She's pretty much bone stock right now and I don't have time or need to build it into the middleweight overlander that this bike really wants to be. Someone please give her a good home and unleash the beast within!
  4. jjmead1

    jjmead1 now THAT"S a bike!

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    Well I believe I sorted out my non start because of no fuel problem. But that leads me to another problem. First, this terminal snaps into the top of the fuel pump unit.
    [​IMG]
    As you can see the right side is sorta blown out. It plugs into here.
    [​IMG]
    It leads to this.[​IMG]

    I believe this is the ground for the fuel pump unit itself. Being it is a black wire inside the fuel tank and a red wire that lead directly to the fuel pump unit. So......any ideas? There is no connection inside the terminal lead external of the gas tank so plugging it into the top of the holding unit essentially does nothing. Also visible in the first image....
  5. MJS

    MJS Long timer

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    I would head down to your local BMW dealer and dig through there electrical connector repair parts. They will have the wire harness one for sure and maybe a match for the fuel pump. You can splice the new connectors into the existing wires. Their first offer is going to be to sell you a new fuel pump assmembly but if they will let you dig through the connector stock you may find the male connector.

    If you're familiar with electrical terminals and can determine the original mfg you can order the components from Mouser or Digikey and do the repair yourself. You need to have the special crimp tools to do this right.
  6. keepshoveling

    keepshoveling DNF

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    I've found the parts guys at maxbmw to be really helpful about stuff as well so maybe give them a call, too.
  7. jjmead1

    jjmead1 now THAT"S a bike!

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    I found a few at mcmastercarr. and found the crimping tool there as well. thanks for the replies!!

    i am not sure if the connectors will work but I am hoping. the tool is rather inexpensive from them as well, should it prove to work.
  8. heli0z

    heli0z SlackPacker

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    Hey guys does anyone run a 14t sprocket up front with good results on a stock chain length? PO put on a 16t and its not the best offroad, lots of clutch work.

    I found some earlier posts that mentioned that this might be a bad idea but ive already pushed the button to get the sprocket for next weekends riding. Should I run it and not worry or get a stock 15t.
  9. keepshoveling

    keepshoveling DNF

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    I don't think it will hurt anything to run it for one weekend. Might as well check it out and then decide whether the additional chain wear is worth it.
  10. big_sur

    big_sur Way faster than you

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    I'm 49t in the back and usually run 15t up front, but I can swap to 14t with just a chain adjustment if I'm riding with dirt bikes or on more difficult terrain so I imagine you'd be fine with your existing chain, assuming it's not terribly worn. 15/49 is about the same as stock rear and 14 in the front which I find is a good dual sport setup.

    Ideally, you'd replace the chain and sprockets at the same time, but I wouldn't worry too much about it. On a few other bikes I've had, I've just gone down 1 in the front and it's been perfectly fine, even with an old chain. Plus, I mean do you really care about having to replace a chain a month earlier or something? It doesn't make a huge difference at all.
  11. Dutchgit

    Dutchgit Completely clogless

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    I'd get 15/49 as Big Sur said. It'll be better for your chain but running a 14 up front should not give you issues other than that the chain will be wearing a little bit quicker.
  12. mikecbrxx

    mikecbrxx Been here awhile

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    15/49 is stock. Currently running 14/49 in Iceland. Better when doing serious offroad but it does affect fuel consumption and top speed.
  13. big_sur

    big_sur Way faster than you

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    Nope, 47 is stock in the rear

    [​IMG]
    Dutchgit likes this.
  14. Butters

    Butters Kwyjibo Supporter

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    I still have mine, but shipping to NYC probably wouldn't be cheap and I'm not sure how much I would want for it. Do you ever come down here to DC?
  15. Nordicdoc

    Nordicdoc Rover & Beemer VT

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    These BS levers are great. They allow you to have much better throttle control by shortening the lever throw and the front brake is much more in reach by virtue of the click adjustments. Also my OEM levers never really fit well inside my HDB handguards. I know some people cut the end ball off and make shorties, but I like to feel the end of the lever and the BS levers are great. Pampax reviewed an adjustable model. Mine are the basic short ones. No question they cost a lot (€124), but I have found them to be a huge asset to my ride.

    Now to the issue as noted about the clutch lever. Mine came with too small a hole as well. I popped the steel insert insert out of the OEM model and had a local machine shop redrill the right sized hole. Popped in the insert and mounted them. Works great.

    image.jpg
  16. jonnyc21

    jonnyc21 Trials Ninja

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    Having some extra vibration on my x-challenge, my first thought is maybe one of my plugs but between them bing new (maybe 500 miles on them) and checking and I get spark on both I am thinking maybe a main barring? It seems to get stronger as the bike warms up and at higher speeds.

    Any way I can confirm or not on the barring? Open to other thoughts. Thanks in advance!
  17. kneesels

    kneesels Adventurer

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    Sep 18, 2007
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    On the counter sprocket, the front spruced, does the raised lip on the sprocket around the shaft hole go in toward the engine of does it face out? Was pulling sprocket and dropped it. Tried searching but to no success. Thanks
  18. MJS

    MJS Long timer

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    The Rotax motor uses ball bearings. If a bearing is going out you will find metal shavings in the crankcase. Careful listening may also reveal a grinding sound. Easiest way to check is to pull the stator cover off and check the flywheel. The magnet on the flywheel will collect the metal.

    Oil analysis can also give you a clue as to what's happening inside but is best if you have a reference sample to compare to.
  19. MJS

    MJS Long timer

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    Out, IIRC. There should be a slight chamfer on the socket splines on the side that sits against the shaft shoulder.
  20. kneesels

    kneesels Adventurer

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    Thanks, back to work.